Every Sunday on our YouTube channel PlumPot. We do a live stream where we build a project as a community, the aim is to introduce PCB design to beginners.We made this Makro keyboard together. It allows the user to only use one button to do a certain action. This is ideal for me as I use Altium and KiCad. So now I use one button to place a track, rotate or place a component, does not matter what CAD software I'm using.The IC we used is the same as the BluePill STM32F103FAs always all our designs are always free and available on GitHub. Also, detail explanation available on YouTube can be seen below.Let us know if you make it or have any improvements you can suggest. We will update and build and release new versions as we go :)Have a great day all. Stay safe and healthy. You can find more about our projects below:Follow us on: - Website: www.plumpot.co.uk Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plumpot_official/Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/Plumpot55 Twitter: https://twitter.com/plum_pot Discord: https://discord.gg/Ba4SHpT

This project is about a PLA replacement for the Commodore TED series computers, such as the C16/C116 and Plus/4.Did you like the PLA20V8 PLA replacement for the Commodore 64? I have designed a GAL PLA for the TED series as well and it consists of just a single GAL16V8.GALs are available at very low cost on popular internet marketplaces can be programmed using the popular TL866 EPROM programmer. They are DIP devices and can therefore be soldered by novice solderers. A PCB is needed that wires the GAL in the correct way and for that you have come to the right place.The required fusemaps and more information is available here:http://www.freepascal.org/~daniel/c16pla/Recommended manufacturing options:Thickness: 1.0mmSurface finnish: HASL lead-freeSolder mask colour: BlackIf you order a panel, route-process: V-scoringFor all other options, please select the defaults

As a child I have owned an Atari 800XL. This 8-bit computer always had a special place in my heart. After almost 35 years I have decided to dive a bit deeper into the circuitry of this now called retro computer. What better way to start than to remake the PCB from scratch.This is a revision with the fixed mistakes from my original design.

The most important part of a computer architecture is a clock circuit. This circuit has the option to run freely in a-stable mode and also operate in single step debugging mode.

Small breakout board based on STM32F070 microcontroller from ST Microelectronics.With this board one can easily prototype small ARM Cortex M0 applications with minimum effort and expense. It can be used as a standalone module, or fitted in a socket/shield for a more complex application.The microcontroller can be programmed directly from the USB interface, making use of the DFU bootloader.The bootloader mode can be activated closing the jumper JP1 and pressing the RST button, after connecting the USB interface to the host.The breakout board features following peripherals:3.3V LDO Voltage regulatorRST buttonPower LEDUser LED (connected to PC13)8 MHz crystal32.768 kHz crystalSWD header (not populated)USB header (not populated)GPIO headers with all pin exposed, except the ones reserved for the crystals.Full documentation is available on Github, including schematic, layout, Gerber files, centroid positioning files and Bill-Of-Materials. It will be possible to order fully-assembled PCBs from any PCB supplier, including PCBWay of course.Some code examples and pre-built binaries will be published in the future.https://www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx?inviteid=334135

A hat to fit on Arduino for programming ATTiny85 microcontroller chips. This fits the Arduino Uno female pin headers perfectly and enables easy programming of the microcontroller via the Arduino Uno.Additional female headers can be added to enable direct access via jumper wire to the ATTiny85 microcontroller.The hat can be fitted with longer lead female headers to enable access to the Arduino Uno with the board fitted, or with just male headers.

When PCBWay asked me to make something for Christmas, I decided to make a Christmas ball. I designed a snowflake in GIMP and used KiCad to deisgn a simple circuit to control 20 LEDs using a ATtiny1617 microcontroller. The white soldermask with ENIG finish is just stunning! All of this runs of a CR2032 battery.

YouTube Video: https://youtu.be/4CtUpvBF1U8Also see Episode 2, Learning Tasmota, Part 2 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsMcXmTql3wRecently, I built my first home automation system for outdoor garden lighting using the Tasmota open source firmware in addition to finished consumer relay switches from Sonoff and Shelly. As I started working with Tasmota, it became evident that the firmware was very flexible for many use case applications.Tasmota works with ESP8266 and ESP32 microprocessors and comes with many features which include not only a web interface and MQTT client interfaces but also common standalone functions such as:Timerscustom pin mappingconfigurable component behaviorrules (scripting)support for a wide variety of sensors, buttons, relays, LEDs.Is it possible to build cool electronic devices without having to write any Arduino code? The answer is YES!This is a reference design for the Learning TasmotaPCB based on a Wemos D1 mini. It allows new Tasmota users to learn how to configure the firmware for various use cases. The PCB is configured with the following devices: two momentary push buttons on D1 and D34 addressable LEDs on D5-8a beeper/buzzer on D2 LDR light sensor hooked through the single analogue pin with a voltage divider for 0-3.3v.A Maxim DS18S20/DS18B20 temperature sensorI hope that you find this useful for learning the Tasmota open source firmware and implementing simple devices such a light/temperature sensors and connected LEDs and switches.Learn, Master Apply!Sincerely,Mark Troyer at https://MarkTroyer.Tech

You've probably heard of FreeTocuhDeck. You haven't? Go check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soIGV6BszcMWhen I was designing FreeTouchDeck, I quickly ran in to issues when using a breadboard. Loose connections made it difficult to debug, because I didn't know if a bug was in the code or because of hardware issues. I designed a PCB that made it easy to connect the TFT screen to the ESP32. I also has the option to add an extra row of header pins so you can still use the pins that are unused by FreeTouchDeck.This PCB is made for the 38-pin ESP32 DevKitC (WROOM-32D) and the 480*320 ILI9488 TFT + XPT2046 touch controller.This PCB is designed to fit in the FreeTouchDeck case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4661069

Here we have a ESP32 as a controller that is controlling about 32 ws2182b LED.I wanted to have light underneath my beer, because?? Why not :)The idea was to have a lazer cut housing that we can make an LED coaster, so can put my drink on it.This gave it an effect that my beer was floating on a cloud of colors :)If you have any questions feel free to contact me anytime.Follow us on:- Website: www.plumpot.co.uk- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plumpot_official/- Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/Plumpot55- Twitter: https://twitter.com/plum_pot- Discord: https://discord.gg/Ba4SHpT

This PCB was used as a brain of our LED coaster. The idea was to have a base that will control the ws2182B that we can use around a laser cut base as can be seen in the images.The LED gave our coaster a floating effect which was very cool.It also has a HX711 IC that will allow you to weigh a weight you put on the coaster, then according to the weight you can make magic happen with the LEDs :)If you have any questions feel free to contact me anytime.Follow us on:- Website: www.plumpot.co.uk- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plumpot_official/- Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/Plumpot55- Twitter: https://twitter.com/plum_pot- Discord: https://discord.gg/Ba4SHpT

This is a small PCB we made to make our own Drone, it uses an ESP32 and an MPU-6050 for the Axis control. Motor control is done with PWM.We are still busy programming it and will share when the code is completed. Electronic wise it has been tested and circuitry is working. We have to do the PWM/PID programing and Bluetooth app for control. All will be shared for free on our discord channel :)If you have any questions feel free to contact me anytime.Follow us on:- Website: www.plumpot.co.uk- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plumpot_official/- Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/Plumpot55- Twitter: https://twitter.com/plum_pot- Discord: https://discord.gg/Ba4SHpT

We recently made a video on our YouTube channel PlumPot on how to design a Battery charging circuit using KiCad. We made these available to all making use of the platform PcbWay has given us.This circuit makes use of the MCP73831-2-OT battery charging IC. It is a smart little chip that will protect you from over charging your battery, as well as let you know when your battery is fully charged.So go ahead get yourself this little PCB for your batteries :)If you have any questions feel free to contact me anytime.Follow us on: - Website: www.plumpot.co.uk - Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plumpot_official/- Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/Plumpot55 - Twitter: https://twitter.com/plum_pot- Discord: https://discord.gg/Ba4SHpT

So this is a project of mine for a diy power injection board that can be used to inject easy fused power to your pixels. Im from the EU so its hard to get a good shipping rate from already existing boards so i tought why i dont make my own and make it a diy project

Because my 2 year old son always ran off with the Ikea remote control. And the original is not really nice to see, I made something myself.The zigbee module has been removed from the original Ikea remote control and soldered on my own pcb. This pcb is mounted on a Jung (535EU) pushbutton. I now have the convenience of an ikea remote with the looks of the Jung switching material that I use throughout the house.

Project descriptionRuby-HAT is an expansion board for Radxa RockPi-S. It's been designed to fit in a compact volume together with the RockPi-S.SpecsRuby-HAT is powered by the following peripherals:-- 1x 0.96" I2C OLED Display Module, with 128x64 resolution, display controller SSD1306-- 2x Tactile push-button-- 1x 5-way Tactile joystick SKRHABE010-- 1x Lineout 3.5mm jack, connected to Lineout pins through DC-blocking capacitors-- 1x Headphone jack, connected to the dedicated headphone amplifier-- 1x Class AB headphone amplifier PAM8908, it can deliver up to 25mW per channel with very low distortionWhat is available-- Schematic-- Layout-- Gerber-- Bill-of-Materials-- Pick&Place Centroid fileNothing is missing for ordering bare or assembled PCBs from PCB manufacturers. The design has been made for keeping cost as low as possible, people with good soldering skills can try to solder all the components by hand, it's tricky but still doable.Hot to useFor audio playback, any image with integrated DAC enabled will work out-of-the-box. It will be required to configure ALSA with software volume control, for increasing or lowering the volume of both lineout and headphone.For joystick and push-buttons connected to GPIOs, plenty of libraries and examples are available for implementing and using them in your own application. Please refer to the schematic for the mapping between buttons and GPIO number.For controlling the OLED display, several libraries and examples are available as well, SSD1306 is a pretty common device. The display has been connected to the I2C bus #1.SupportAn official thread has been open on Radxa forum. Please feel free to report your experience and ask for support, if required.