This project is about a Commodore PLA replacement.PLA replacements for the Commodore 64 are available for quite a number of years and have grown increasingly sophisticated. Therefore you may ask why the world would need another PLA, and indeed, current available alternatives are technically sound. However, if you occasionally repair a Commodore 64, you will come to the realisation that you need spare PLAs on stock. Now I'm not saying people that make PLAs are overcharging, in fact, I believe for the work the makers put into them, you might already be receiving more than you pay for. However,ordering 10 PLAs somewhere for just for your own stock will cost you a fair amount of money, enough to make it not fun anymore.Looking at this dilemma I did conclude I would need to make my own PLAs. I could clone an existing one, but instead took a look at well available parts that are easy to solder and program by commonly available tools. I saw a possibility with GALs and started work on my own PLA, and I did succeed.GALs are available at very low cost on popular internet marketplaces can be programmed using the popular TL866 EPROM programmer. They are DIP devices and can therefore be soldered by novice solderers. A PCB is needed that wires the GALs together in the right way and for that you have come to the right place.The required fusemaps and more information is available here:http://www.freepascal.org/~daniel/c64pla/Recommended manufacturing options:Thickness: 1.0mmSurface finnish: HASL lead-freeSolder mask colour: BlackIf you order a panel, route-process: V-scoringFor all other options, please select the defaults

The drives for the Commodore PET computers are quite scarce, unreliable, bulky and expensive and use a lot of components almost impossible to find noways in case of fault.The Commodore 1541 drive, instead, is quite common, reliable and easy to fix, if needed. However it is incompatible with the PET series, because they use a different data transfer protocol (IEC vs. IEEE).With this simple, not destructive and totally reversible mod, you can now use a 1541 floppy disk drive with your PET. This project is based on an old article published on a german magazine in the 1980s; it is tested, works fine and it's quite easy to build. See the Bill of Material for the required parts (really few parts, all through-hole, easy to find on Mouser, Digi-Key and also eBay and Aliexpress). No SMD soldering is required for this project. Instructions:Solder the components on the PCB. Use sockets for all the ICs. NOTE: BEFORE to install the 40 pins socket in this adapter, you need to put 2 rows of 20 pins (rounded model) header from the bottom side and solder from the top side. I suggest to put them into the 40 pins socket to keep them aligned and then solder them in the adapter board. This two 20-pins headers will serve to install the board into the 6522 socket of the 1541 drive (in place of the 6522 chip, that need to be removed from its socket and plugged in the socket of this adapter).Install the three small ICs (IC2, IC3, IC4) in the sockets.Solder a cable on S2. You don't need a 24 wires cable; since pins #12 and #18...#24 are GND, you only need a 17 wires cable, from pin #1 to pin#17 (below you can find a table with the IEEE cable pinout). You will also need a connector on the PET side. What kind of connector depends on which model of PET you have.Program the 2764 EPROM with the IEEE488ROM.BIN file (see the ZIP file attached in this project) using an EPROM programmer. I use a MiniPro (TL866 II) programmer, that's quite reliable, versatile and cheap.The 2764 EPROM isn't pin to pin compatible with the 2364 ROM, so you must to build an adapter before to install the EPROM on the 1541 disk drive; you can build it using two sockets (Google is plenty of examples) or, easier and better, you can build one of my adapters purchasing the PCB on PCBWay at: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/2364_2764_27C64_28C64_adapter_with_option_for_Commodore_disk_drive_8050_8250_e6407192.html (the version WITHOUT the small SMD chip)Open the 1541 drive cover removing the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom sideRemove UC3 (6522) and UB4 (ROM). Both ICs should be on socket, but if they're soldered on the board, you need to remove them and replace with a socket. You will only need the 6522 IC, so you can keep the ROM in case you want to reverse the mod.Install the 6522 you removed from the 1541 in the adapter board (IC1)Install the board in the 6522 socket (UC3)Install the EPROM (using the adapter) in the ROM socket (UB4)Put two jumpers on J1 and J2 to set the drive as drive #8Connect the 1541 drive to your PET and switch them on.Put a floppy disk into the FDD and try to format it using the command OPEN15,8,15,"N0:DISK,01":CLOSE15 - You should hear the familiar noise of the drive formatting the disketteGood luck, and enjoy!The board installed in the 1541. Note the flat cable I used: it is very easy to trim very gentle the lower shell of the drive and close the cover without to cut or damage the cable. The mod is almost invisible, so if you want to revert the mod, there will be no holes in the 1541 shell.The connector with an (rather ugly) 3D printed shellIEEE (PET) cable pinoutPET IEEE-488 connector flavors

Fix any RAM or main ROM issue on your Commodore equipment Expand your RAM up to 32 KBProject tested and workingSupported equipment: PET / VIC-20 / 2031 / 1540 - 1541 / 1570 -1571 - 1571CR FDDThis board can be use for upgrade, fix or diagnostic an issue on Commodore PET / CBM (including PET 2001/N, 3032, 4032, 8032/8032SK, etc.), Commodore VIC-20 and Commodore 1541 disk drives. It's a not invasive replacement, unless the 6502 is soldered on the board: in this case you need to un-solder it and put a socket in its place.This board allows to replace the RAM and/or the ROM (except for the Characters ROM). You can use it to diagnostic any problem about the RAM or ROM (BASIC, EDIT, KERNAL) of your computer or drive, to fix a problem or also to upgrade the firmware or install up to 32Kb of RAM. The board can be used temporarily or left inside the computer or drive for constant use.Note: if you want to permanently install it in the Commodore VIC-20, you will probably need to solder the board directly on the VIC-20 board, because of the tight space behind the keyboard. Building tutorial:Bill Of Material (BOM). You can also download it as .xlsx file from this page1) Solder IC5, IC6, C1, C2, C3 and the resistor pack (see azure boxes). LEAVE JP1 EMPTY! VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE A SOCKET FOR IC5 AND IC6!2) Put 2x 20 turned (lathed) pins header from the bottom side. This is the header that will be put in the 6502 socket on the computer board. Don't use headers with thick pins or it can damage the 6502 socket. To keep the headers aligned, I suggest to put them into a DIP socket before to solder it. The yellow boxes shows where the headers should be put (and soldered) from the top side.3) solder the sockets and the DIP switch pack and you're almost done!NOTE: THE "ON" side of the DIP switch must to be put close to the resistor pack 4) You only need to solder a wire from the CPU to the GAL chip, based on this scheme. DON'T SOLDER BOTH WIRE! JUST ONE IS NEEDED!!!Since PCBWay will send you a minimum of 5 boards, if you need to use it for PET, VIC-20 *and* 1541, I suggest you to build 2 different boards instead of using just one board and keep changing the wires.---------------------------------------------------------5) Now you need to program the FlashROM chip with the ROM image of your computer. Since the original ROMset is split in more than a chip, you need to get the ROM images from the web http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/firmware/index.html is a good place), pack them together in the right sequence and upload to the FlashROM.However, to make your life easier, I put here the file ROM and GAL binaries.zip that contains ready to use images for the most common computers. I assume you know how to program a FlashROM; if not, you will find plenty of examples on Google.The same zip file also contains the images for the GAL chip. You need to program it using the right JDE file, accordingly with your needs.If you don't own an EPROM programmer yet, I suggest you to buy a MiniPro / TL866 II programmer. It's quite cheap, especially if you go to Aliexpress or eBay and get a clone (as I did).---------------------------------------------------------6) After you programmed the two ICs (flashROM and GAL), it's time to populate the board with all the missing ICs. Put the RAM, the FlashROM and the GAL. If you haven't a spare 6502, you can remove the one of your computer or drive and use it.7) Time to put the board into your computer or drive. Take care to install it using the original orientation of the 6502 (the notch in the chip must to be put in the same way). BEFORE TO SWITCH IT ON, however, you need to set the DIP Switch accordingly with your needs (see tables below).REMEMBER TO ALWAYS SWITCH OFF THE EQUIPMENT BEFORE TO CHANGE THE DIP SWITCH or you can burn or damage something!If you're trying to diagnostic an issue, activating or deactivating the RAM and / or the ROM can pinpoint you directly on the problem. And, of course, you use the equipment leaving the board installed. Enjoy your Commodore equipment!Switch table: Note: this is a revisited edition of a +20 years old freeware project apparently no more supported by his developer (I wrote him many e-mails during the last years without any answer), so I updated the board, wrote the documentation, packed the firmware and put here for everybody. Hope you will enjoy!

Yup! I made another one, this time with lights! Cherry MX (and equivalent) mechanical keyboard switches have a provision for a RGB LED and I decided to toss in some addressable ones in order to double the fun! The greatest part of this particular macro pad is that you can use any microcontroller you would like, instead of being stuck to a pro micro like my previous macro pad, AND you get to mix and match switches - go nuts!R1, R2, R4, R5, R6, R7 are 5k (I used 4.7k)R8, R9, R10 are 1kR3 is 10kR11 is 500RHere are the parts you will need:Outemu (or any Cherry MX equivalent) key switches:Canada: https://amzn.to/3b9jW1XUSA and World: https://amzn.to/3osKzCkAliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeaidSLKeycaps which can accept a label:Canada: https://amzn.to/3aXVlxjUSA and World: https://amzn.to/3cGN7KpAliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEVJ6D5Hotswap sockets:Canada: https://amzn.to/3u9FBwPUSA and World: https://amzn.to/3VA95zMAliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbBiXDSK6812 Mini-E LEDs (reverse mount):Aliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEMO87h100n 0805 capacitors:Canada: https://amzn.to/3Vy0Vb4USA and World: https://amzn.to/3VEwXm0Aliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcZIY9HM3x6mm screws:Canada: https://amzn.to/3VAMBPdUSA and World: https://amzn.to/3UjOCOzAliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlkKWPhSome more useful things:3x4 Keypad:Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32530917534.html"Cherry" style switch sampler:Aliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmvWdndKeyswitch remover:Canada: https://amzn.to/3GWIZTrUSA and World: https://amzn.to/3uhUbCtAliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dli9cxDand some useful links:V1 Macro Pad:https://youtu.be/3iy2FWI8sWUListen to the Simple Electronics Podcast while you solder:https://www.simpleelectronics.ca/podcastThanks for watching! Check out my website: https://www.simpleelectronics.caIf you feel like supporting the channel, please consider supporting on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/SimpleElectronicsor get some cool merch!https://teespring.com/stores/electronics-r-usor buy anything from USA Amazon using my affiliate link:https://amzn.to/3Iki6q7or buy anything from Canadian Amazon using my affiliate link:https://amzn.to/3FNxPfIor buy anything on Banggood's site using my affiliate link:https://www.banggood.com/custlink/mGvGJL5Qm1or buy anything using my Aliexpress affiliate link:https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9u07X6and if you feel so inclined, here is my Amazon wish list!https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/2BMH2EFGY31V1?ref_=wl_shareI have other channels!:SE-Made-A-Stream:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4Ak1IVkuT5M66PayLOe19QDan Fixes Cars:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8gQZ_5-DOb0oQVm66oTl6ASE Con Dairy:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL1jXgPQjCI0gWFLltq2bzgLive Gaming:https://www.twitch.tv/SimpleElectronicsYTDisclaimer: Some links included in this description are affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you!

### DESCRIPTIONThe Z80-MBC2 is an easy to build Z80 SBC (Single Board Computer with 8MHz Z80, 128kB banked RAM, RTC, Disk on SD, Basic and Forth interpreters, CP/M 2.2 and 3.0, QP/M 2.71, cross Assembler and C toolchains). It is the "evolution" of the Z80-MBC (https://hackaday.io/project/19000-a-4-4ics-z80-homemade-computer-on-breadboard), with a SD as "disk emulator" and with a 128KB banked RAM for CP/M 3 (but it can run CP/M 2.2 too).It has an optional on board 16x GPIO expander, and uses common cheap add-on modules for the SD and the RTC options. It has an "Arduino heart" using an Atmega32A as EEPROM and "universal" I/O emulator (so a "legacy" EPROM programmer is not needed). It is a complete development "ecosystem", and using the iLoad boot mode it is possible cross-compile, load and execute on the target an Assembler or C program (using the TASM assembler or the SDCC compiler, or any other tool that can output a Intel-Hex file) with a single command (like in the Arduino IDE). Hackaday wrote an article on the Z80-MBC2: here and also Hackster: here.### TECHNICAL DETAILS / COMPONENTSThe needed ICs for the "base system" are:Z80 CPU CMOS (Z84C00) 8Mhz or greaterAtmega32ATC551001-70 (128kB RAM)74HC00If you want the 16x GPIO expansion (GPE option) add a MCP23017 too.The schematic and the BOM are in the "project page" (see at the bottom of the article).The MCU Atmega32A is used as universal I/O subsystem, as Eeprom, and as reset and 4/8MHz clock generator for the Z80 CPU.Inside the Atmega32A it is flashed an Arduino bootloader taken from here, and it is possible to use the Board Manager of the Arduino IDE to "import" it.Flash the Arduino bootloader at first (with the method you prefer), next you can upload the IOS "sketch" (the I/O Subsystem that interacts with the Z80 bus and "virtualizes" the EEPROM and all the peripherals seen by the Z80 CPU) using Arduino IDE.You can use the on board ICSP port (J3) to write the bootloader, but remember to disconnect any other connector when using it. Also both SD and RTC modules (if present) must be removed from the board when the ICSP port is in use.As clock source for the Z80 CPU it is used the 16MHz Atmega32A oscillator, so the "external 16MHZ osc." bootloader variant must be chosen when flashing the bootloader from the Arduino IDE!.The 74HC00 is used as RS flipflop to stop the Z80 CPU during I/O operation, giving the needed time to the Atmega32A to interact with the Z80 bus, and as part of the MMU.Note that only the CMOS version of the Z80 CPU can be used here. This because only CMOS version, under given condition that are respected in this schematic, has logical levels compatibles with Atmega32A and 74HC00.NOTES ABOUT THE COMPONENTS:You should use a Z80 CMOS speed grade of at least 8MHz for full speed, but setting the clock speed at 4MHz you can use a 4MHz Z80 CMOS version too (or you can try to overclock it at 8MHz...). The 74HC00 can be substituted with a 74HCT00 if you already have one. The RAM chip TC551001-70 can be substituted with any suitable 128kB SRAM).Please note that the USER led * must * be blue or white just to be sure that V(forward) is >= 2.7V (otherwise the USER key may not work as expected).The J4 connector (AUX_P) is not currently supported and is not populated by default.The three solder jumpers (SJ1-3) on the bottom side are not currently supported and must be left opened (as stated in the schematic).### LEARN / TOPIC / BUILD INSTRUCTIONSFor all the build details (HW and SW) including the schematic and the BOM, see at the the "project page" here: https://hackaday.io/project/159973-z80-mbc2-4ics-homemade-z80-computer.Z80-MBC2 Users Group on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/388307645238660/

COMMODORE C64 CHARACTER GENERATOR ROMREPLACEMENT ADAPTER (FOR REPLACING 901225-01)Gerbers updated as REV2 on 22.10.2020. Please update your unpaid orders.Hello,This ROM adapter is suitable for replacing Commodore64 Character Generator ROM (For replacing 901225-01)You can download Eprom Images from this link:https://archive.org/download/chr-eprom/CHR_EPROM_BIN.zipPs. In order to use this character generator ROM replacement adapter, your Commodore 64's 901225 chip have to be desoldered and socketted.If you need Commodore VIC-20 Character ROM Replacement Adapter (MOS 901460-03), it is here.If you need 8x8KB Commodore 64 replacement adapter for 901226-01 BASIC ROM and 901227-03 KERNAL ROM, it is hereIn terms of device and software security; please turn your Commodore64 off before switching ROMs.For any questions please e-mail me : c64istanbul@bikom.comGerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank you.COMPONENTS:W27C512 or 27C512 or 27c256 or 27c128 or 27c644 PCS. 10K 1/8 WATT RESISTANCE2 PCS. 12-PIN 2.54mm ROUND MALE HEADER4 PCS. 2-PIN 2.54mm MALE HEADER 4 PCS. 2.54mm JUMPER CAP28-PIN WIDE DIP IC SOCKET24-PIN WIDE DIP IC SOCKET (FOR computers motherboard )And you will need an eprom programmer to program 27c512Gerbers updated 22.10.2020In terms of device and software security; please turn your Commodore64 off before switching between ROMs.In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!As you can see I have uploaded many projects and I am still working on new projects. If you have any questions, please look for answers online. Unless I specify explicitly, all my projects are tested and confirmed to work under normal circumstances before being shared. I'm sorry I didn't have enough time to answer all the questions.Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.

(DIY) Pi1541 + EPYX FAST LOAD CARTRIDGE for COMMODORE 64 RASPBERRY Pi1541 ZERO HAT (C64 DISK DRIVE EMULATOR) and EPYX FAST LOAD CARTRIDGE TOGETHER.Hello,This is a tested and working project.This is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;) Actually, this PCB is a combination of two independent projects, one of them is Pi1541 (Commodore disk drive emulator) and the other is "Epyx Fast Load" Cartridge. They can be used individually or together.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/RASPBERRY_Pi1541_ZERO_HAT_COMMODORE_64_DISC_DRIVE_EMULATOR_1.htmlhttps://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/C64_EPYX_FASTLOAD_CARTRIDGE_1.htmlPi1541 is a real-time, cycle exact, Commodore 1541 disk drive emulator. You can load and save commodore64 programs, D64 .PRG ... extensions games/software from a Micro SD card, it is an alternative to SD2iEC, for more info please look at this link.A lot of experienced Commodore 1541, SD2iEC, Pi1541 users prefer EPYX FASTLOAD, because of its high compatibility with Commodore hardware and software. The source page link of Pi1541 PCB drawing is below. (Option A) https://cbm-pi1541.firebaseapp.com/Many thanks to Stephen White for Pi1541. You can visit his site and make a donation.Do not forget: solder 2 x 20 pin female header before OLED display :)SETTINGS FOR Pi1541 HAT DISPLAY PIN ORDER:For VCC-GND-SCL-SDA Displays; SHORT VCC + VCCFor GND-VCC-SCL-SDA Displays; SHORT GND + GNDAT THE BACK OF THIS PCB.** If you want to use Pi1541 HAT unconnected to the C64 expansion port then you need to provide DC +5V 2A power to the (+ -) pins on the PCB. (DO NOT CONNECT EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE TO THIS CARTRIDGE WHILE IT IS INSERTED TO C64 !)(Do Not use HDMI output of Raspberry Pi with this Pi1541 HAT)You can download Binary Eprom Image and user manuals of Epyx Fast Load Cartridge from this link.https://archive.org/download/epyx-fast-load-1984-v-2-roms_202005/Epyx_FastLoad_1984_v2_ROMS.zipIn order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Ps. While transfering data (reading or writing) from SD cards it should not be interrupted like power-off or Reset systems. Otherwise that may damage SD cards.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!As you can see, I have uploaded many projects and still working on new projects. If you have any questions, please search the internet for answers. Unless I explicitly stated, all my projects are tested under normal conditions and confirmed to work before being shared. I am sorry for not having enough time to answer all the questions.Have funThank you.Components for RASPBERRY Pi1541 ZERO HAT Part:Raspberry Pi Zero (Other rasberry Pi models are NOT suitable to work from C64 expansion port)6 pcs. Right-Angle Tactile Push Button4 channel. bidirectional logic level converter6 pin Male DIN Connector0.96 inch Oled screen2x20 pin female header470 ohm 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes leds brigtness)Red LEDComponents for Epyx Fast Load Cartridge Part:27c64 or 27c128 or 27c256 or 27c512 (DIP28)DIP28 wide IC socket74LS07DIP14 IC socket100nf CAPACITOR0.47 μF CAPACITOR ( 470 nF )2.7K 1/4 WATT RESISTANCE

Commodore Amiga Floppy Disk Drive Bootblock (Track Zero) Virus Protector. Hello, This is a tested and working project. (Tested on a Commodore Amiga 500)Commodore Amiga Floppy Disk Drive Bootblock (Track Zero) Virus Protector is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;)This Amiga virus Protector protects your floppy disks from Bootblock Viruses.This virus protector must be plugged into your Amiga external floppy drive connector. The switch works as a special boot block write protector. With the switch on, Amiga cannot overwrite the Zero (boot-block) track, so the boot-block virus cannot infect your floppy disk.The disk bootblock is not protected when the switch is off, but if some kind of boot-block virus copies itself to your floppy disk, this protector will alert you with a beep sound and a light.You can simply test this circuit with X-COPY, just try to write on track zero.COMPONENTS:DB23M 23 pin D-sub male connector **74LS02 (DIP14)1N4148 DIODEActive Buzzer 3Volts3mm WHITE LED (A bright LED should be better)ON/OFF SWITCH (3pin 2.54mm SPDT slide SWITCH)This PCB** There are several methods to obtain 23 pin D-sub male connector:25 pin D-sub male connector's pins and the 3D model link below.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1238286Or you may chose this method.https://archive.org/download/db23m/DB23M.jpgIf you have a programmer capable of testing IC chips, such as the 74LS series, you should remember to test them before soldering. Some chips may be defective. (TL866 Minipro Programmer can test some logic ICs)In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Amiga before connecting or disconnecting the cables or any other device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!As you can see I have uploaded many projects and I am still working on new projects. If you have any questions, please look for answers online. Unless I specify explicitly, all my projects are tested and confirmed to work under normal circumstances before being shared. I'm sorry I didn't have enough time to answer all the questions.Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.

(DIY) THE FINAL CARTRIDGE III+ FOR COMMODORE 64 This is a tested and working project.This The Final Cartridge 3 Plus PCB is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole and marked on the PCB, it is easy to solder, easy to make ;) The Final Cartridge III was a popular extension cartridge which was created for the Commodore 64 and Commodore 128, it can be operated on the Expansion port of the C64 or the C128. It was developed in 1987 from the Dutch company RISKA B.V. Home & Personal Computers (based in: Rotterdam in the Netherlands). It provides over 60 new functions to the C64-user (e.g. BASIC-Extension, Fastloader and -saver for the 1541 with an acceleration factor of 10, Freezer, Monitor). Additionally there is a graphical user interface (Desktop) with windows (similar to GEM or Windows). From the hardware there is a Reset- and a Freezer-Function, allowing the program execution to be stopped to be resumed later. Thanks to the original Producer: RISKA B.V. Home & Personal Computers (1987-1993)You can download 256KB and 64KB EPROM images from this link.https://archive.org/download/TFC3PLUSEPROM/TFC3PLUS_BINARIES2.zipRelated Links:https://s-o.webnode.cz/vykopavky/c64/https://rr.pokefinder.org/wiki/Final_Cartridgehttps://www.c64-wiki.com/wiki/Final_Cartridge_3https://www.c64-wiki.de/wiki/Final_Cartridge_3https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Final_Cartridge_IIIEnglish User Manualhttps://rr.pokefinder.org/rrwiki/images/7/70/Final_Cartridge_III_english_Manual.pdfIn order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have FunThank you.COMPONENTS:27C020 (27C2001) DIP32 or 27C512 for plain version74LS273 DIP2074LS163 DIP1674LS133 DIP1674LS04 DIP1474LS09 DIP14DIP32 IC SOCKET1nF Capacitor1μF Capacitor10μF Capacitor5pcs. 1N4148 DIODE1.2K Resistor18k Resistor3pcs. 4.7K ResistorLED3pin male headerjumper cap2pcs. RIGHT ANGLE TACTILE BUTTONYou will need a programmer for EPROMIf your programmer have capability to test IC chips, like 74LS series, then you should not forget to test them before soldering, some chips may have defect. (TL866 Minipro Programmer is able to test some of logic IC)

SD2iEC & EPYX FAST LOAD CARTRIDGE V2 (TQFP) This, SD2iEC & Epyx Fast Load Cartridge V2 PCB is also available for TQFP package ATMEGA644P and ATMEGA1284, if you like, you may prefer to use TQFP package AT644P or AT1284, they are usualy cheaper and easy to find than DIP package models.Other instructions are the same with first version.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/_DIY__SD2iEC___EPYX_FAST_LOAD_CARTRIDGE_FOR_COMMODORE_64.htmlIf you want to program TQFP ATMEGA onboard then you should use DIP40 pins for ICSP connections. I used ATmeag644P and ATmega1284P compatible TQFP44 to DIP40 adapter Programmer socket, from aliexpress.comDIP40 pin 6 = MOSI DIP40 pin 7 = MISO DIP40 pin 8 = SCK DIP40 pin 9 = RST DIP40 pin 10 = VCCDIP40 pin 11 = GNDIn order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.While transfering data (reading or writing) from SD cards it should not be interrupted like power-off or Reset systems. Otherwise that may damage SD cards.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank you.

AMIGA PS/2 MOUSE CONVERTER (ADAPTER) - PIC16F628(A)Hello,This is a tested and working circuit board .If you have a PIC16F628(A) and a PIC-Programmer, you can make your own Amiga PS/2 mouse converter adapter, with this circuit-board easily.This Amiga PS/2 Mouse Converter adapter supports; three mouse buttons, most of optical PS/2 mice and some of USB mice (supporting PS/2 communication protocols) (with a simple and cheap USB to PS/2 converter.)You need to download .HEX file and program it in to PIC16F628(A), from this link,https://archive.org/download/amiga-ps-2-mouse-pic-16-f-628/AMIGA_PS2_MOUSE_PIC16F628.zipIn order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Amiga before connecting or unconnecting any device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank youPS. Gerbers updated for technical reasons 09.06.2020COMPONENTS:PIC16F628A or PIC16F628DIP18 IC SOCKETDB9F D-SUB 9 PIN FEMALE CONNECTOR - You may remove the metal cover if needed (for A600)6PIN RIGHT ANGLE PS/2 FEMALE PCB TYPE MINI DIN CONNECTOR100nf CAPACITOR

C64 EPROM PROGRAMMER (DELA EPROMMER II - REDRAWN)DELA EPROMMER II is a eprom programmer for Commodore 64This is a tested and working circuit board.This is an Easy DIY circuit board, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;) This Dela Eprommer II circuit board is redrawn as original product.Dela Eprommer II was a very popular eprom programmer for commodore 64Dela Eprommer II eprom programmer works on Commodore 64 User Port.You can program 2716, 2732, 2764, 27128, 27256 eproms with 12V, 21V, 25V VPP voltages with this programmer.You can chose two different programming algorithms; fast and normal (50ms/byte). For some old eproms you can chose normal (50ms/byte) programming mode. There are also "One Byte Programming" and "eeprom erasing" functions.Always, turn your Commodre-64 power off before pluging or unpluging this eprom programmer.You can download DELA EPROMMER II software and some manuals from this link. (German Language)https://archive.org/download/eprommer-ii/EPROMMER_II.zipMany thanks to Dela Elektronik GmbH for this great C64 eprom programmer.Do not put an EPROM in the EPROMMER before Eprommer II Software started.Commodore 64 file system records 2 bytes start adress header at the beginning of the files, but PC recorded .BIN files do not have these 2 Bytes, this difference can cause problems.In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank you.COMPONENTS:2 pcs CD4040 (DIP16)7406 (DIP14)74LS373 (DIP20)7805 (TO-220)6 pcs. BC237 (TO-92)BC558 (TO-92)28 pin wide ZIF socket (DIP28)DIP20 IC socketDIP14 IC socket2 pcs. DIP16 IC socketRED LED4 pcs. 1N4002 DIODE3 pcs 1N4148 DIODE8.2V ZENER DIODE7.5V ZENER DIODE5.6V ZENER DIODE680 OHM 1/4 watt RESISTANCE2 pcs. 1K 1/4 watt RESISTANCE9 pcs. 10K 1/4 watt RESISTANCE2 pcs. 470μF 50V electrolytic capacitor470μF 35V electrolytic capacitor100μF 35V electrolytic capacitor (updated from 25V to 35V 08.12.2020)10μF 16V electrolytic capacitor805-24p 2x12pin 3.96mm Pitch CARD EDGE CONNECTOR2 pcs. screw and 4pcs nut (for 2 legs)

(DIY) SD2iEC & EPYX FAST LOAD CARTRIDGE FOR COMMODORE 64This is a tested and working project.This is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;) SD2iEC (Commodore disk drive emulator) and Epyx Fast Load Cartridge (the most popular "disk fast loader" for Commodore 64). Now they are togetger on one PCB.Actually, this PCB is a combination of two independent projects, one of them is SD2iEC (Commodore disk drive emulator) and the other is Epyx Fast Load Cartridge. They can be used separately or both together. A lot of experienced Commodore users prefer EPYX FASTLOAD, because of its high compatibility with Commodore hardware and software. While working with Commodore's original Disk Operating System, Commodore Disk drives (1541, 1571...) or disk drive emulators (SD2iEC, Pi1541...) loading is slow. Epyx Fastload Cartridge increases the loading speed remakable rate.Average Loading Speeds Comparison:Normal C64 Loading: 500 bytes per secondEpyx Fastload (SD2iEC): 8000 bytes per secondHere is; 180 blocks (45KB) loading video, from SD2iEC, with using Epyx Fastload:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfkIw4P4sD0EPYX FASTLOAD CARTRIDGE also contains disk utilities and a machine code monitor for Commodore 64.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epyx_Fast_LoadYou can download Epyx Fast Load Cartridge Binary Eprom Image and user manuals from this link.https://archive.org/download/epyx-fast-load-1984-v-2-roms_202005/Epyx_FastLoad_1984_v2_ROMS.zipOriginal SD2iEC is designed by Lars PontoppidanWith SD2iEC, from an regular SD Card; you can use D64, M2I, PRG, D71, D81 and P00 ... extensions, Commodore 64 floppy disk images and program files. SD2iEC is easier to use and faster than its competitors. You can use SD Card as a huge capacity floppy or hard disk drive, you are not obligated to mount D64 disk images, you can load and save easly.You can search and find alot of information about "how to use SD2iEC" in the internet.SD2iEC Official Site is https://www.sd2iec.de/SD2iEC firmware download link: https://www.sd2iec.de/nightlies/ (Use firmware ...larsp-m1284p.bin or ...larsp-m644p.bin)MMC2IEC / SD2IEC - Evolutionen link: http://www.pitsch.de/stuff/mmc2iec/index.htm ** Before soldering SD Card Module you should place some isolation tape between PCB and SD card module. ** If you already have ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA644 in TQFP44 package, then you have an option of using this TQFP44 to DIP40 adapter in the place of buying DIP40 package ones. Or you can order TQFP version of this PCB.** If you want to use SD2iEC unconnected to the C64 expansion port then you need to provide DC +5V power to the (+ -) pins on the PCB.In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Ps. While transfering data (reading or writing) from SD cards it should not be interrupted like power-off or Reset systems. Otherwise that may damage SD cards.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank you.ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA644 FUSE SETUPCOMPONENTS:ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA644 (DIP40)27C512 or W27C512 or 27C64 or 27C128 or 27C256 (DIP28) 74LS07 (DIP14)DIP14 IC SOCKETDIP28 WIDE IC SOCKET (for eprom)DIP40 WIDE IC SOCKET (for ATMega)2x8 pin SD Card Module ( NOT Micro SD module ! ) (will be placed to the bottom side)RED LEDGREEN LED2 PCS. 270ohm - 1K 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes leds brigtness)10K 1/4watt RESISTANCE2.7K 1/4watt RESISTANCE8 Mhz Passive Quartz Crystal1N4148 DIODE2 PCS. 33pf ceramic CAPACITORS6pin MALE DIN CONNECTOR6PIN MALE HEADER1PCS. HEADER JUMPER CAP4 PCS. RIGHT ANGLE TACTILE BUTTON6 PCS. 30cm MALE-FEMALE DUPONT CABLESD CARD (4GB will be enough)3 PCS. 2PIN MALE HEADER2 PCS. 100nF ceramic CAPACITORS1 PCS. 0.47μF CAPACITORYou will need a programmer for ATMEGA and EPROMIf your programmer have capability to test IC chips, like 74LS series, then you should not forget to test them before soldering, some chips may have defect. (TL866 Minipro Programmer is able to test some of logic IC)

COMMODORE 64 SD2iEC & KERNAL CART COMBOThis is a tested and working project. I think, SD2iEC (Commodore disk drive emulator) and Kernal Cart is a very good combination. They come together to make a complete Disk Operating System for your Commodore 64. Actually, this PCB is a combination of two independent projects, one of them is SD2iEC (Commodore disk drive emulator) and the other is KernalCart (Commodore's low-level Operating System ROM in cartridge form). They can be used separately or both together. If you want to use SD2iEC unconnected to the expansion port then you need to provide DC +5V power for the (+ -) pins on the PCB.Original SD2iEC is designed by Lars PontoppidanOriginal Kernal Cart is designed by SukkoPera While working with Commodore's original kernal ROM, The SD2iEC loads slow (like speed of original old Commodore 1541 disk drive). When you use 'SD2iEC Kernal' or 'JiffyDOS * Kernal' with your SD2iEC, the loading speed increases spectacularly.Average loading speeds comparison:Original C64 kernal : 500 byte/secondJiffy DOS Kernal: 10150 byte/secondHere is; 180 blocks (45KB) loading, with DolphinDos-patched-JiffyDOS, video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6asuU_cAbqs Referral for SD2iEC; I used ozayturay's schematics https://github.com/ozayturay/EagleProjects/tree/master/SD2IECSD2iEC Official Site is https://www.sd2iec.de/SD2iEC firmware download link: https://www.sd2iec.de/nightlies/(Use firmware ...larsp-m644p.bin)SD2iEC Kernal 2.2 download link: https://csdb.dk/release/?id=159050 (Thanks to Claus)MMC2IEC / SD2IEC - Evolutionen link: http://www.pitsch.de/stuff/mmc2iec/index.htm Referral for Kernal cart; I used SukkoPera / OpenC64KernalCart project and Turbo DOS V3 cartridge PCB images.https://github.com/SukkoPera/OpenC64KernalCarthttp://blog.worldofjani.com/?p=3736 If you need, you can find more information from original project's sites, and you can find many more information from internet. On this PCB v1.02, I added an enable/disable switch (headers and jumper cap) for Kernal Cart, it is between 74LS30 pin-8 and 27c512 eprom pin-22. (Disabling KernalCart is required while using SD2iEC COMBO without CPU pin28 cable connection) To make this project, you have to program ATMEGA644P TQFP-44 and 27C512 dip28The link below contains some kernal ROMs like Dolphindos, Speeddos, SD2IEC v2.2 kernal ... and a sample 27c512 eprom image for testing. You can also run DEADTEST 781220 ROM file in 27c512 eprom .https://archive.org/download/c-64-kernals_202004/C64_KERNALS.zip* KernalCart is also compatible with JiffyDOS ROM, you can buy and use JiffyDOS 64 KERNAL ROM Image http://store.go4retro.com/jiffydos-64-kernal-rom-overlay-image/ ** Before soldering Micro SD Card Module you should place some isolation tape between PCB and SD card module.Many thanks to SukkoPera, Lars Pontoppidan and Ozay Turay for their great works.In terms of device and software security; please turn your Commodore64 off before switching Kernal ROMs.In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.Ps. While transfering data (reading or writing) from SD cards it should not be interrupted like power-off or Reset systems. Otherwise that may damage SD cards.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have FunThank you.COMPONENTS:ATMEGA644P TQFP-4427C512 or W27C512 DIP28 (maximum; 64KB is for 8x kernal ROM)DIP28 WIDE IC SOCKET (for eprom)74LS30 DIP14DIP14 IC SOCKET6Pin MICRO SD CARD MODULE (will be placed to the bottom side and needs isolation)RED LEDGREEN LED2 PCS. 270ohm - 1K 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes leds brigtness)10K 1/4watt RESISTANCE8 Mhz Passive Quartz Crystal1N4148 DIODE2 PCS. 33pf CAPACITORS6pin MALE DIN CONNECTOR6PIN MALE HEADER5 PCS. 2PIN MALE HEADER2 PCS. 3PIN MALE HEADER1PIN MALE HEADER2 PCS. HEADER JUMPER CAP3PCS. 3pin 2.54mm SPDT slide SWITCH3 PCS. 100nf CAPACITORS3 PCS. RIGHT ANGLE TACTILE BUTTON7 PCS. 30cm MALE-FEMALE DUPONT CABLEMICRO SD CARD (4GB will be enough)FUSE SETUPIf your programmer have capability to test IC chips, like 74LS series, then you should not forget to test them before soldering, some chips may have defect. (TL866 Minipro Programmer is able to test some of logic IC)