In this part of the series, Robotic Toy Car – Part 4, We will add some custom side-panels to the project. While the original toy did come with some laser cut aluminum side panels, I decided to replace them with PCB versions, with even more flashing lights (yes, this thing is turning into a “Christmas tree” , but that is what the eventual owner wanted… )These side-panels will not be programmable. They will simply be operated from a standard 555 timer and a couple of other components, to give a flash time of about one second on and off each…It is also an excellent project to showcase the capabilities of PCBWay, in dealing with a “rather difficult” PCB to manufacture. As you may know by now, I use PCBWay‘s services quite extensively, and I also only design my PCB’s with EasyEDA. EasyEDA is however quite limited in some aspects, and as far as myself, making panels of different designs on one PCB with complex shapes is not something that I do every day…Let us take a look at what had to be done, and how well it was manufactured…The PCB LayoutWhat we have here, is basically two mirrored side-panels ( as far as the visible “outside” is concerned anyway ) That consists of 6 led’s per side that will flash alternatively. On the “inside” we have a 555 timer chip, with some resistors and capacitors, as well as transistors that does the switching.The SchematicThe difficulty of this PCB is definitely in the manufacturing. I was however pleasantly surprised with the excellent work that was done by PCBWay. Their Engineering staff did contact me early on in the order, with a suggested plan to manufacture, and once I approved that, they very quickly went on to production. My initial concern was that they suggested “mouse-bites” which we all know can sometimes come out a bit strange…Completed PCB in packaging..I was however extremely pleased when the above parcel arrived… They added side rails, and the “mouse-bytes” were super tiny.After assembly ( not cleaned up yet )After Assembly ( not cleaned up yet )Installed on the toy car bodyThe “almost completed ” Robotic Toy CarWith the completion of the side-panels, it was also time to start work on the power wiring and other essential components of the project, which will get their own detailed post in a few days.the “almost completed” projectSome details on the construction:The toy originally came with a single 500mA 14500 cell, which unfortunately stopped working very soon after only a few uses… This was however one of the reasons why the entire project happened in the first place, so no complaints there.I decided to replace it with a 18560 cell with a capacity of about 1900mA. This cell is much bigger however, and I had to think of where to place it. I decided to put it on the roof, sort of emulating a “spoiler”.Some of the next parts of the project will be the remote control unit, which will basically be an ESP8266 running ESP-Now protocol, as well as a decent battery charging and power distribution circuit, that will protect the Lipo cell from over charging and discharging, as well as provide sufficient power for all the added electronics in the toy car.“But you said it was Robotic, so why have a remote control?”The initial plan for the project did indeed say robotic, but it is also designed to be a learning platform, especially to teach coding. With that in mind, it is definitely better to keep things simple for now, and add sensors and more capabilities later on, especially as I am actually planning to replace the main MCU board with a more powerful ESP32 in a next version anyway.The car body is also extremely cramped, and does not have any space for mounting sensors at all. I plan to remedy that by designing and 3d-printing a whole new custom body shell later… providing that my young friend actually stays interested enough to learn the coding… If he doesn’t, he will as least have a very interesting looking custom remote controlled toy car.

OpenAmiga600RamExpansion is an Open Hardware 1 MB Chip RAM Expansion for the Commodore Amiga 600 Computer.For more information, please visit https://github.com/SukkoPera/OpenAmiga600RamExpansion.

In this, part 3 of the “Giving new Life to an Old Toy Car” series, we will be adding some flashing lights to the toy car project. This will ultimately serve two purposes, with the most obvious being to give some life and excitement to the project ( as the final user will be a young boy of 7, the visual aspect is important). The second purpose is more obscured, and mostly only useable to programmers and coders, or those that will debug the project… The flashing lights will function as status indicators, at startup, as well as during the normal operation of the toy. Obviously, the diagnostic nature should be well obscured so as to not distract from the visual aspects.A short test of the display unit, disguised as a “police-style” flasher unitThe flasher unit is made up of an extremely simple circuit, with only a PCF8574 IO expander, bypass capacitors, some LED lights, and current limiting resistors.The bottom layer of the flasher unit, shows the Io expander, bypass capacitors, and current limiting resistors.The top layer is designed to be as clean as possible, with only LEDs and some labelingSchematicSchematicThe schematic is straightforward, with no surprises, consisting only of a few components, like the PCB8574, bypass capacitors, current limiting resistors, and of course the LEDs. It is also important to remember that I plan to use this entire robot car to teach a young boy to program microprocessors. I believe that visual is best, thus, all the lights ??CodingAs this is still a project in quite a lot of development stages, I will not publish my exact code at this moment. You can however look forward to the future conclusion post, which will contain all my code at that stage.For now, however, we need to keep in mind that the PCF8574 is an I2C port expander, with an 8-bit IO port.It is thus possible to do something simple like the below:#include <Wire.h>void setup() {wire.begin();wire.beginTransmission(0x20);wire.write(0b11111111); // All LEDS off// our circuit is sinking current into the io expanderwire.endTransmission();delay(1000); // delay for illustration purposes, production code will use// non blocking codewire.beginTransmission(0x20);wire.write(0b10100101); // All blue LED on// our circuit is sinking current into the io expanderwire.endTransmission();delay(1000);}void loop() {}Obviously, this is just a very quick example and is meant to just test functionality. Your own application will ultimately determine the exact code that you would need.

This cartridge allows replacing the KERNAL (i.e.: operating system) of a Commodore C64 computer with one that is stored on an external cartridge. Actually it can store up to 8 KERNAL images, which can then be selected by jumpers. This makes it very easy to switch among KERNALs at will, without the need of opening the C64 every time. For more information please visit https://github.com/SukkoPera/OpenC64KernalCart.

OpenAmiga600FastRamExpansion is an Open Hardware 4 MB Fast RAM Expansion for the Commodore Amiga 600 Computer.Most low-end Amiga models only came with Chip RAM. "Big Box" models allowed for a different type of memory to be installed, known as Fast RAM, where fast means that it's dedicated to the main processor, so that it doesn't have to compete with the other chips in order to gain access to it (as is the case with Chip RAM). While both Chip and Fast RAM are limited in size, you can have at least a few MB of the latter on all Amigas (usually up to 8), while the former can never exceed 2 MB.OpenAmiga600FastRamExpansion will allow you to add 4 MB of Fast RAM to your Amiga 600. This way you will be able to run more applications at once and more quickly. If you combine it with a chip RAM expansion, you will also be able to run almost all games supported by WHDLoad, pushing the smallest of the Amigas to its limits. The Fast RAM will be mapped to $200000-$5fffff, which means it will not interfere with the PCMCIA address space.For more information, please visit github.com/SukkoPera/OpenAmiga600FastRamExpansion.

Practice makes perfect and soldering needs a lot of it...This 100x100mm board contains all the features you will need in order to practice your soldering, improve your skills and boost your confidence. Depending on your soldering experience, it comes in handy both as an exercise tool and as a quick way to warm-up before a soldering session.Watch my video for all the necessary details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czXJevPWIsA Main features of this soldering practice board:- Castellated holes (plated half-holes) in four (4) different sizes, along all the edges of the board. - Six (6) types of pads in a total of eleven (11) rows, with different heat dissipation characteristics.- Large pads with very high heat dissipation, from 2.5x2.5mm up to 7.0x7.0mm sizes.- Tiny pads in four (4) large groups, for precision soldering and pad bridging practice.- Cold section with four (4) different types of pads, interconnected with traces for varying heat dissipation.- Rails in various widths, for long, uniform and continuous soldering using different tip sizes.- Battery connector section with mounting holes for XT60, XT30, PH2.0 and BT2.0 connectors.- SMD section for surface mounted components, with different spacing.- Board mounting pads for a RX5808 module - the pad spacing should fit other surface-mounted boards too.- Antenna connector pads for SMA, MMCX, IPEX and uFL connectors.The spacing of the pads and the castellated holes becomes smaller as you reach the end of each row, for more challenging soldering conditions. You can add wires between the pads to increase heat dissipation even more.The XT60 holes can be used for holding the board with the alligator clips of helping hands. There are also mounting holes on the board for your own custom stands/holders. Check the info sheet for more details on my Ultimate Soldering Practice Board: http://www.mutefpv.com/uspbinfo Ordering details:- Join PCBWay here: http://www.mutefpv.com/pcbway or Sign-in and add my design to your cart.- Make sure the "castellated holes" option is checked / enabled (on checkout).- Choose your desired surface finish: HASL will be like having pre-tinned pads. OSP adds an organic coating on the copper pads that goes away as you apply heat with your soldering iron. If you want something more premium, go for the ENIG (immersion gold) option.- Insert the quantity you want.- Select the "solder mask" color you want (this is the color of the PCB board).- Select the "silkscreen" color you want (this is the color of the text, logo and borders on the board). Leave your feedback below or at the comments section of my video!

For details please see the video below Unboxing Paket PCB dari PCBWay https://fareedish.blogspot.com/2020/02/membuat-cas-aki-otomatis-dengan-mudah.html

OpenFlops is an Open Hardware Floppy Disk Drive emulator/simulator inspired from the ubiquitous Gotek hardware. It is designed to run the FlashFloppy firmware.For more information please visit https://github.com/SukkoPera/OpenFlops.

this is a project that i did for the christmas theme competition of a friend who streams on twitch and records for youtube.right when she announced the tournament, I already had the whole idea in my head, to make a sign that all the electrical components were also decorative, so without thinking too much I already imagined a snowman, throughout the project the components were changing but the essence remained.it is all document and detailed on github for those who want to reproduce, there are some details about the use of components that I haven't had time to fully test yet!Github Link: https://github.com/RodrigoDornelles/pcb-snowman-xmas

GCJC Keychain For PCBWay sponsorship promotion

I bought a second hand FIAT Seicento, then I discovered there was installed a non working car alarm system (Gemini 7300).Alarm was a too old model to get support or repair service. No available replacement boards (or new units) on internet. I would like to add a remote control for door openinig, I could buy new one from Amazon or Ebay but I'm too lazy to replace all wirings and connectors..... FIAT models (such Seicento or Cinquecento) are supplied with automatic door control unit (additional remote control was optional and expensive), so I need few electronics to apply remote control, then I already have wirings from Gemini 7300.What about making a new board to fit inside Gemini 7300 enclosure re-using some components and connectors?So I made a new board with basic functions (door open/close, cockpit led, blinking indicators and fuel pump control) using PIC microcontroller, wireless receiver with integrated decoder and few components.As RF receiver I used Aurel RX-4MHCS (4 channel RF receiver with integrated rolling-code decoder) for following reasons:easy to findenough cheaprolling-code to increase securitynice handheld transmitter available (see pictures, regardless 1, 2, or 3 channels version)About transmitter we can find two models (I used only first channel).Microcontroller just needs to manage receiver output to command doors control unit, check if doors closing command correctly worked (using feedback terminal), blink led when doors are closed.When pressing remote control button PIC gets output from RF receiver, commands door control unit to open or close doors (depending on signals on input terminals), then checks if configuration has correctly changed.When opening door you'll see long blink of indicator lights.When closing door you'll see long blink and short blink. (then cockpit led starts blinking).If something wrong you'll se 3 short blinks.Door feature (open/close) is always active.I used Gemini 7300 key-switch toenable/disable fuel pump (fuel relay supplies power only if enabled and ignition key is ON) but I discovered too late fuel pump wirings were not connected. When you buy remote control you have to follow pairing instructions on RX-4MHCS, depending RX-4MHCS firmware.On links you can find additional documentation such wirings and microcontroller firmware.BTW: first PCB was designed for different PIC microcontroller, that's why there is soldered wire. I updated PCB gerbers for PIC18F1330.

DESCRIPTIONPulse Induction Metal Detector Surf PI 1.2 classic version. (Note- It is not the longboard version but i have corrected the silkscreen of resistors so you can follow the build instructions of a longboard one without any issues). The dimension of this pcb is 210*44mm.TECHNICAL DETAILS / COMPONENTS- It works based on pulse induction technology- It has gain, sample, delay variable- Works with a variety of coils which are easy to build.- no SMD components, DIP only making it easier to solder on their own for beginnerssome of the only metal detectors circuit which can be build using a multimeter without possesing an oscilloscope making it ideal for diy enthusiasts and the result being a cheap and reasonably accurate detector.Build details on: http://www.adrianandgenese.com/blogger/2012/07/13/how-to-build-a-surf-pi-1-2-pulse-induction-metal-detector-from-a-diy-kit/ ( It is not my website and the all the rights to this website belong to the respective owner)I decided to make it for my science project and wanted to share the pcb with the community since people usually find it difficult to get the gerber files for it. You can get the components list from the bom and all the components are easily available but if you cant find any of them you can ask me about any subsitute components and i will try my best to help the community!

A printed circuit board for assembling a simple LED flasher. The scheme was published in the journal Radio number 11 in 1986. I assembled this construction on the radio hobby shool while still a schoolboy. She remembered to me her simplicity, and the childish delight of the hand-assembled, working device.The video briefly tells about this scheme, and about several improvements and modifications that were published in subsequent issues of the journal.

Rangkaian ini cocok digunakan sebagai pelindung baterai dari penggunaan berlebihan yang akan mengakibatkan baterai cepat rusak

Switching power supplies are known for high efficiency. An adjustable voltage/current supply is an interesting tool, which can be used in many applications such as a Lithium-ion/Lead-acid/NiCD-NiMH battery charger or an standalone power supply. FeaturesCheap and easy to build and useConstant current and constant voltage adjustment [CC, CV] capability1.2V to 25V and 25mA to 3A controlling rangeEasy to adjust the parameters (optimum use of variable resistors to control the voltage and current) The design follows the EMC rules (input and output are on the same edge, means lower voltage difference and lower EMI)It is easy to mount a heatsink on the LM2576It uses a real shunt resistor (not a PCB track) to sense the currentYou can apply the maximum voltage of 30V to the input. The LM2576-Adj (PS1) can accept input voltages up to 40V, but REG1 (78L09) can tolerate the maximum of 35V (absolute maximum rating) at the input. REG1 plays an important role in the stability of the amplifier (IC1), therefore reducing 10V from the input voltage threshold is a wise decision.To set your desired voltage, simply connect a voltmeter (or a multimeter in the voltage setting) to the output and turn the R6 multiturn potentiometer. To set your desired current limit, simply connect an ammeter (or a multimeter in the current setting) to the output and turn the R7 multiturn potentiometer to set your desired current limit. Do not prolong this process because holding the output on the short circuit condition is not recommended.SchematicPCBBill of materials

I recently discovered the STM8S003F3, and I started developing some projects around it. Still, I came face-to-face with the program's memory limitations, so I decided to jump to the STM005C6, which has 4x more memory and several more GP?Os. I noticed a lack of development boards available, so I decided to make my design available so more people can discover these fantastic MCUs.Edit 1.0 The ST-Link doesn't recognize the STM8S005 if VDDIO_1 or VDDIO_2 are power on at the same time than VDD so I added a diode to prevent that situation from happening while programming.Please considert to donate to support future projects.