Overview"Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments."This tutorial will take you through all the steps to build an Arduino Nano compatible "nanoBluino" and how to install smd components using solder paste and stencil techniques.Make special of nanoBluino special is that it uses the USB socket type C.Bill of MaterialsHere are the components that you will need to make nanoBluino:1 x PCB nanoBluino (PCBWAY)1x IC ATMEGA328P SMD TQFP-321x IC CH3401x AMS1117 5V1x Diode,Schottky 0.5A 20V (T1)2x Yellow LED 06031x Green LED 06031x Red LED 06031x Oscillator 12MHz1x Oscillator 16MHz2x R 5K1 Ohm6x R 1K Ohm1x R 10K Ohm5x C 0.1 uF2x ELCO SMD 47uF/25V1x Tact SMD1x USB Type-C Socket 16 pin2x Male Header 15 pin1x Barell Socket DCSchematic

This project is a continuation of my earlier weather station project. It was quite popular on the web, people around the globe made their own by following it and give valuable feedback for improvement. By taking consideration of the comments and Q&A section of my earlier project, I decided to make this new version Weather Station. I also made a custom PCB for this project, so anyone with little knowledge on electronics circuit can be made this project. My V-2.0 PCB can also be used for many application in Arduino platform. Following are the salient features of the new weather station.Features:1. Connect to Wi-Fi, and upload the data to the web ( Blynk App and Thingspeak)2. Monitoring Weather parameters like Temperature, Pressure, Humidity, altitude and UV level etc.3. Extra ports to add more sensors4. Remote Battery Status Monitoring5. Uses a powerful Li-Ion Battery ( 3400 mAh ) and Solar Panel (1W)6. Independence from the external power source7.Can be installed in remote sites or geographically challenging environments8. Being Solar powered, it is an environment-friendly device.Buy PCB :You can buy the PCB and all the components in a single Kit from PCBWayNote:Battery and 3D printed enclosure is not included in the kitComponents Used :1. Wemos D1 Mini Pro (Banggood / Amazon )2. TP 4056 Charging Board ( Amazon )3. BME 280 sensor ( Amazon / Bangood )4. BMP280 ( Banggood / Amazon )5. DS18B20 Sensor ( Amazon )6. Switch (Amazon)7. Screw Terminals ( Banggood)8. PCB standoffs ( Amazon )9. 18650 Battery ( Amazon)10.18650 Battery Holder ( Banggood / Amazon)11. Solar Panel ( Banggood )12. Straight Headers Pin ( Amazon )13. 22 AWG wire ( Amazon )14. Super Glue ( Amazon )15. 3D printing filament -PLA ( GearBest ) Power SupplyMy plan is to deploy the Weather station at a remote place ( my farmhouse).To run the Weather Station continuously, there must be a continuous power supply otherwise the system will not work. The best way to provide continuous power to the circuit is by using a battery. But after some days the battery juice will run out, and it is a really difficult job to go there and charge it. So a solar charging circuit was proposed to user free energy from the sun to charge the batteries and to power the Wemos board. I have used a 18650 Li-Ion battery.The battery is charged from a Solar panel through a TP4056 charging module. The TP4056 module comes with battery protection chip or without the protection chip. I will recommend buying a module which has a battery protection chip included.Monitoring Temperature and Humidity by BMP/E280In the earlier days, weather parameters like ambient temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure were measured with separate analog instruments: thermometer, hygrometer, and barometer. But today the market is flooded with cheap and efficient digital sensors that can be used to measure a variety of environmental parameters. The best examples are sensors like DHT11, DHT 22, BMP180, BMP/E280, etc.In this project, we will use BMP280 / BME280 sensor.BMP 280 :BMP280 is a sophisticated sensor that very accurately measures barometric pressure and temperature with reasonable accuracy. The BME280 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch and is the upgrade to the BMP085/BMP180/BMP183 - with a low altitude noise of 0.25m and the same fast conversion time. The advantage of this sensor is that it can use either I2C or SPI for communication with the microcontroller. For simple easy wiring, I will suggest buying the I2C version board.BME280 :The new BME280 sensor, an environmental sensor with temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. The BME280 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch and is the upgrade to the BMP280. This precision sensor from Bosch is the best low-cost sensing solution for measuring humidity with ±3% accuracy, barometric pressure with ±1 hPa absolute accuracy, and temperature with ±1.0°C accuracy. It can be used in both I2C and SPI.Note: BME280 can measure humidity but BMP280 can't. In the market, BMP280 is also available by the name of BME280. So be sure whether it is a BMP280 or BME280.Additional Ports for More Sensors The Weather Station V2.0 board have 5 additional ports to hook up more weather sensors. The following additional sensors can easily be hooked up :1. GY-1145 Sensor: for measuring UV IndexThe SI1145 is a sensor with a calibrated UV sensing element that can calculate the UV Index. It can communicate via I2C communication (address 0x60). You can hook up this sensor with I2C port in the board which is located just side to the power switch.You can read this article to know more about this sensor.2. HDC1080: for measuring temperature and humidityThe HDC1080 is a digital humidity sensor with an integrated temperature sensor that provides excellent measurement accuracy at very low power. It can also communicate via I2C communication.You can read this article to know more about this sensor.3. DS18B20: for measuring temperatureIt can measure temperature with a minimal amount of hardware and wiring. These sensors use a digital protocol to send accurate temperature readings directly to your development board without the need of an analog to digital converter or other extra hardware. It uses a one-wire protocol to communicate with the microcontroller. It can be hooked up in port-P2 in the board which is located on the right side of the Wemos board.You can read this article to know more about this sensor. Using an External Antenna ( 3dBi ) The Wemos D1 mini Pro board have an inbuilt ceramic antenna along with provision for connecting an external antenna to improve the range. Before using the external antenna, you have to reroute the antenna signal from the built-in ceramic antenna, to the external socket. This can be done by rotating the small surface mount (0603) Zero Ohm resistor (sometimes called a link).You can see the above picture, how I have done this.You can also watch this video made by Alex Eamesto to rotate the zero ohm resistor. Then snap the antenna SMA connector into the Wemos Pro mini antenna slot.Monitoring Battery VoltageThe weather station is run by a 18650 Li-Ion battery, so it is very important to monitor its status. The max voltage input to the Wemos board is around 3.2~3.3V but a fully charged 18650 battery voltage is 4.2V. So to measure this voltage we have to step down the voltage by using a voltage divider network.The Wemos D1 mini already has an internal voltage divider that connects the A0 pin to the ADC of the ESP8266 chip. The voltage divider is made up of 220k (R1) and 100k (R2). So, we have to add an external resistance with the inbuilt 220k resistor to read the battery voltage. By using a 100k resistance we can measure the max voltage of the battery, but taking some margin, a 220k resistor is selected. It is named R1 on the PCB board and located just above the battery holder.To select the voltage divider resistance values, you can use this online calculator.You can also read this article on battery voltage monitoring. Implimenting Deep Sleep Mode The heart of the Wemos Board used in our Weather Station is an ESP8266 SOC which is a power hungry chip. Our objective is to run the device by using a 18650 battery but the demand for power usually makes battery operation impractical.Another problem is that as the device will run continuously, it is quite obvious that the device will experience warming, and therefore the measured temperature will be higher than the ambient temperature.From the above, it is clear that we have to lower the power consumption of the ESP8266 WiFi chip. To do that, we’ll use the Deep Sleep mode which is the most power efficient option for ESP chip. It allows to put the ESP8266 into hibernation and saves the battery. You can wake up it at regular intervals to make measurements and publish them.Component Operation mode ----- Sleep mode1. ESP8266 170 mA -------- 10 uA2. CH340 12 mA --------- 50 uA3. Built-in LED 3 mA ----------- 0 uA4. Voltage monitor 0.006 mA ----- 6 uA-----------------------------------Total185 mA ---- 66 uAIf the sleep-wake cycle is 10 minutes, with a 30 second wake time, the energy consumption budget looks like this:Wake time 185 mA for 0.5 minutes = 92.5 mA-minutesSleep time 0.066 mA for 9.5 minutes = 0.627 mA-minutesTotal in 10 minutes = 93.13 mA-minutesThus the average current consumption is 9.3 mA.Selecting the Solar Panel From the previous step, it is concluded that the average current consumption is 9.3 mACharge required for running the device for the whole day = 9.3 mA x 24 Hours = 223.2 mAhThere is no current gain in the linear regulator used in the WeMos, so any current used at 3.3V results in the same current at 3.7V or whatever voltage the battery is at.The amount of solar insolation varies according to which part of the globe you are located at. To find out the amount of solar insolation in your area, you can use the Global Solar Atlas. By taking consideration into minimum 1 hour of full sunlight, we are going to select the solar panel.So, our target is to generate 223.2 mAh in 1 hour.To charge a 3.7V Li-Ion battery, a solar panel of voltage 5 to 6V is adequate.Required Solar Panel rating = 223.2 mA at a voltage of around 5 to 6 volts.Solar panel rating = 223.2mA x 5V = 1.1WSolar Panel Selected : 1W / 5V to 6VIn this project, I have used a 5V,200mA Solar Panel ( 99 x 69 mm)So a 1W panel should be enough to run the project even in winter in places with a high latitude.Note: If your location receiving ample amount of sunlight, then a 0.66W solar panel which I have used in my earlier version also work.PCB Design I have drawn the schematic by using EasyEDA online software after that switched to PCB layout.All of the components you added in the schematic should be there, stacked on top of each other, ready to be placed and routed. Drag the components by grabbing on its pads. Then place it inside the rectangular border line.Arrange all the components in such a way that the board occupies minimum space. Smaller the board size, cheaper will be the PCB manufacturing cost. It will be useful if this board has some mounting holes on it so that it can be mounted in an enclosure.Now you have to route. Routing is the most fun part of this entire process. It’s like solving a puzzle! Using the tracking tool we need to connect all the components. You can use both the top and the bottom layer for avoiding overlap between two different tracks and making the tracks shorter.You can use the Silk layer to add text to the board. Also, we are able to insert an image file, so I add an image on of my website logo to be printed on the board. At the end using the copper area tool, we need to create the ground area of the PCB.Now the PCB is ready for manufacturing.PCB Fabrication Once we are completed the PCB design we just need to click the “Gerber output” button, save the project and we will be able to download the Gerber files which are used to manufacturing the PCB.Assembling the PCB After receiving the board from the PCB fab house, you have to solder the components.For Soldering, you will need a decent Soldering Iron, Solder, Nipper.First I cut the straight male and female headers pin for Wemos Board, TP4056, BMP/E 280 and for all the ports.Following are the details about the headers :1. Wemos Board - 2 x 8pins Female2. BMP280 - 1 x 6pins Female3. I2C Port - 1 x 4pins4. Port P1 - 1 x 4pins5. Port P2- 1 x 3pins6. Port P3- 1 x 4pins7. Port P4- 1 x 3 pinsIt is good practice to solder the components according to their height. Solder the lesser height components first.I have started by soldering the resistors, switch and then moved towards the bigger components like headers pin, screw terminal and battery holder.Adding the Modules and Battery After assembling the header pins, switch and screw terminal, it is time to insert the boards into their respective headers. The headers are clearly labeled on the PCB, so there is no chance of confusion.First I place the TP4056 board and solder all the pads.Then I added the Wemos Board and BME280 Sensor.Finally, I inserted the 18650 battery into the battery holder. Mounting the StandoffsAfter adding all the parts, mount the standoffs at 4 corners. I used M3 Brass Hex Standoffs.Use of standoffs will provide sufficient clearance to the soldering joints and wires from the ground.3D Printed EnclosureTo give a nice commercial product look, I designed an enclosure for this project. I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to design the enclosure.The enclosure has two parts:1. Main Body2. Cover LidThe Main Body is basically designed to fit the Weather station V2.0 PCB (85mm* 83mm).The Cover lid is to cover up the main body opening.I used my Creality CR-10 printer and 1.75 mm green PLA filament to print the parts. It took me about 11 hours to print the main body and around 3 hours to print the top lid.My settings are:Print Speed : 60 mm/sLayer Height: 0.2mm ( 0.3 also works well)Fill Density: 25%Extruder Temperature: 200 deg CBed Temp: 60 deg CDownload the STL files from ThingiverseYou can also have a look into the enclosure designed by 3KU_Delta.Download the STL file of his design from ThingiversePut the PCB Inside the Enclosure First, insert the M-F hex standoffs into the four mounting slots in the enclosure.Then fix the PCB board over the standoffs by aligning its four screw holes at the corner.After inserting the four standoffs, I have faced difficulty to fix the PCB due to small misalignment. So I am thinking to modify the mounting stand to fix the 3M screw directly instead of hex standoffs.Installing the Components After mounting the PCB, you have to install the BME280 module and Wemos board.Then insert the jumper JP2.Insert the SMA connector into the holes provided in the enclosure. Then tighten the nut along with the washers. Now install the antenna by properly aligning with the SMA connector.At last, put the 18650 battery inside the battery holder. Make sure you have to insert with the right polarity. The polarity is marked in the battery holder, PCB as well as on the battery.3D Printed Stevenson Screen My enclosure design was a decent looking enclosure but it was not ideal for the weather station. The ideal enclosure for keeping the weather sensors is the Stevenson Screen. A Stevenson screen is an enclosure for weather sensors against rain and direct heat radiation from outside sources, while still allowing air to circulate freely around them.The Stevenson Screen for Solar Weather Station V2 is designed by my friend Glen. This has a simple wall mount and a 2 part cover to isolate the heat transfer from the solar panel. I really appreciate his work.You can download the .STL files from ThingiverseYou can watch the above video for 3D printed Stevenson Screen assembling.Video Credit:digiblurDIYTIP: Spray the fully assembled PCB with Lacquer Spray to protect the board and components, but you do need to put a little tape over the BME280 temp sensor hole to not block it.Interfacing With Blynk App Step-1: Download the Blynk app1. For Android2. For iPhoneStep-2: Get the Auth TokenIn order to connect the Blynk App and your hardware, you need an Auth Token.1. Create a new account in the Blynk App.2. Press the QR icon on the top menu bar. Create a clone of this Project by scanning the QR code shown above. Once it detected successfully, the whole project will be on your phone immediately.I've made Sol Weather Station app. You are welcome to try it out!To start using it: 1. Download Blynk App: http://j.mp/blynk_Android or http://j.mp/blynk_iOS 2. Touch the QR-code icon and point the camera to the code below 3. Enjoy my app!3. After the project was created, we will send you Auth Token over email.4. Check your email inbox and find the Auth Token.Step-3: Preparing Arduino IDE for Wemos BoardTo upload the Arduino code to Wemos board, you have to follow this InstructablesStep-4: Arduino SketchAfter installing the above libraries, paste the Arduino code given below.Enter the auth code from step-1,ssid, and password of your router.Then upload the code.Uploading Sensor Data to ThingSpeak First, create an account on ThingSpeak.Then create a new Channel on your ThingSpeak account.Find How to Create a New Channel Fill Field 1 as Pressure, Field 2 as Temperature, Field 3 humidity, Field 4 as altitude and Field 5 as Bat Voltage.In your ThingSpeak account select “Channel” and then “My Channel”.Click on your channel name.Click on “API Keys” tab and copy the “Write API Key”Open the Solar_Weather_Station_ThingSpeak code.Replace the “WRITE API ”with the copied “Write API Key”.You can see my live feed.Software and LibrariesTo use Wemos D1 with the Arduino library, you'll have to use the Arduino IDE with ESP8266 board support. If you haven't already done that yet, you can easily install ESP8266 Board support to your Arduino IDE by following this tutorial by Sparkfun.Following settings are preferable :PU Frequency: 80MHz 160MHzFlash Size: 4M (3M SPIFFS) – 3M File system size 4M (1M SPIFFS) – 1M File system sizeUpload Speed: 921600 bpsLibraryBefore uploading the code install the following libraries :1. ESP82662. BMP2803. BlynkYou can read this tutorial by Sparkfun to install the Arduino libraries.In my earlier version, there are two separate codes for Blynk and Thinspeak but in this version, we have written a single piece of code. The user has to only comment out a single line of code for Blynk or Thingspeak. For example, if you are using it for Blynk App, the code should be as below: const String App = "BLYNK"; // alternative is line below // const String App = "Thingspeak"; // alternative is line above Credit: I want to give a lot of credit to Keith Hungerford, who has guided me to make this project more powerful. The software library for BMP280 is also written by him. You can read his Instructable on BMP280 power saving mode.Note: Before using the deep sleep feature, Wemos D0 pin must be connected to the RST pin. This can be done by shorting the jumper JP2.Update : 15.05.2019You can also see excellent work done by 3KUdelta on his GitHub Page. In his V2.3 code, he included the famous Zambretti forecaster. I really appreciate his hard work for the improvement of the project.The software provides short term forecast in words (4-6 hours) using the famous Zambretti forecast model :4-6 hour forecast in wordsTrend in wordsTemperatureDewpointHeat IndexHumidityAbsolute PressureRelative PressureBattery Voltage (V)Adding Wind Sensors Update on 05.04.2020For a weather station, it is very essential to monitor wind speed and direction. The wind speed is measured by anemometer and wind direction is by the wind vane. You can buy the sensors from Sparkfun or Amazon.My friend honzek from the Czech republic hooked up the wind sensor in Weather Station PCB V2.0 to monitor the wind speed and direction. He also used the 3D printed Stevenson screen to keep the PCB and other sensors. The outcome of his project is extremely good, you can see the above picture.I am sharing his work because it will be an inspiration for many more. I would like to give special thanks to honzek for sharing the pictures and Arduino Code.You can also see the Arduino Code for his project, attached below.More Information:Instructables : https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiFi-Weather-Station-V20/My Website: Solar Powered WiFi Weather Station V2.03D Printed Enclosure :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3395393https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615016https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551386 Arduino Code:GitHub : https://github.com/3KUdelta/Solar_WiFi_Weather_Stationhttps://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-hdc1008-temperature-and-humidity-sensor-breakout/wiring-and-test

Build a cheap and simple DIY Digital Soldering Station, a budget friendly Hakko 907 alternative! Enjoy the variable constant temperature feature and quick warm-up times. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Digital-Soldering-Station/Project Specifications:- Designed for Hakko 907 handles- Compatible with similar handles- Temperature Range: 27°C-525°C- Warmup Time: 25s - 37s (325°C)- Recommended Supply: 24V, 3A- Power: 50W (Average)

MX29F1615 (16 bit EEPROM) programmerBased onhttps://framagit.org/acathla/eeprom-programmerandhttps://dragaosemchama.com/en/2016/10/arduino-mega-eprom-programmer/DISCLAIMER· Gerber and Centroid files, BOM list are subject to change without notice.· The project is tested with the latest firmware (stable) version available at the time of writing.

Necroware's GamePort Adapter For more information: https://github.com/necroware/gameport-adapterFor Releases: https://github.com/necroware/gameport-adapter/releasesMany people from the retro community still have their beloved joysticks and gamepads from the early days. These devices often live their lives somewhere in the dark corners of our basements and we don't dare to throw them away, because of nostalgic reasons. They remind us so much of our childhoods, where we played our Wing Commanders, X-Wings, Descents and many other games. These old joysticks were all made to be connected to the game port, usually on a sound card. But by the end of 90's and beginning of 2000's game ports vanished from our computers and were replaced by USB and our old joysticks disappeared into the past. Today not everybody has a full retro PC and many people are using their modern computer with DOSBox to play the old games, sometimes with a modern USB joystick. But wouldn't it be great to play the old games with the same joystick which we used back then? And this is where this adapter comes into play. It can be used to connect gameport joysticks to a USB port.GamePort Adapter Videos:Part 1: IntroductionPart 2: UpdatesHow does it work?The adapter is built around Arduino Pro Micro, which uses the same ATmega32U4 microcontroller as Leonardo. This microcontroller has built-in USB HID capabilities and can be used to build HID input devices, like joysticks. The adapter itself is super simple, the main brainwork was invested into the software. Very much simplified, it reads the joystick states and sends the data, via USB, to the computer, which thinks that it is communicating with a USB joystick.What is special about this one?There are already plenty of gameport to USB adapters for basic analog joysticks and, as far as I know, there were some efforts to communicate with Sidewinder joysticks by Microsoft as well. But there is no universal adapter, which would work with different types of joysticks. This adapter implements multiple drivers for various analog and digital joysticks, with an option to add more, in the future.Features overview:Support for generic analog joysticks with 2/4 buttons and 2/4 axesFour switches to select joystick typeAutodetection for various digital protocol joysticksAuto-CalibrationVery low input lagWhat is the difference between analog and digital joystick?Many people call button-only joysticks or gamepads digital. This is kind of right, because a button is either pressed or not. You can't have an analog values in between. However by digital, in this case, we mean something different. A gameport contains 15 pins, 8 of which are used for joystick communication. 4 pins are for buttons and carry digital values in sense of on/off and 4 pins are for analog axes, which deliver voltage somewhere between 0V and 5V. Joysticks which were made in the early days used this pinout. They could have a maximum of 4 buttons and 4 axes and were DOS compatible. Later, in the time of Windows 95/98 many joysticks were made to be plugged into a gameport as well, but they were not limited to 4 buttons and 4 axes. They had a lot more exciting features, like hat switches and throttle controls. But how did this work? Well the manufacturers implemented their drivers to communicate with the joystick via gameport using a proprietary communication protocol. For example, by using one pin of the gameport as clock and another one as data, the possibilities were almost limitless. Such joysticks are called digital as well, because they used digital protocols to communicate with the PC. And suddenly, many features were possible, but the price of these features was the lost compatibility to DOS. You couldn't just plug such a joystick into the gameport and expect it to work in old DOS games. The plug was the same, but the signaling was completely different.Which joysticks does this adapter support?Currently, the following drivers are implemented. To select the right driver, you have to use four switches, as shown in the table. The switches may be changed or extended in the future, so please pay attention to the updates.Joystick ModelButtonsAxesHatSW1-4CommentsGeneric Analog2200000Generic Analog4201000Generic Analog43001003rd Axis is throttleGeneric Analog4401100CH FlightStick4410010Analog, DOS-compatibleCH F16 Combat Stick10310110Analog, DOS-compatibleThrustMaster4311010Analog, DOS-compatibleSidewinder GamePad10201110Digital protocolSidewinder 3D Pro8411110Digital protocolSidewinder 3D Pro Plus9411110First version of Precision ProSidewinder Precision Pro9411110Digital protocolSidewinder FFB Wheel8301110Digital, FFB not yet implementedGravis GamePad Pro10200001Digital protocol (GrIP)Logitech WingMan Extreme6311001Digital protocol (ADI)Logitech CyberMan 28601001Digital proticol (ADI)Remarks:Please pay attention to how the same switches are used for different families of digital devices. This is possible due to fully digital communication. Using this method, the adapter implements autodetection as soon as it knows, that it is connected to a digital joystick.Currently, only the drivers for the listed Sidewinder devices are implemented, since I have no other models at hand. The Precision Pro works natively on USB as well, but was still implemented, because we can.Gravis used their GrIP protocol, which is currently implemented only for the Gravis GamePad Pro, but without daisy chaining possibility so far.The implementation of the ADI protocol used by Logitech should work with all the devices which support that protocol. However only the listed Logitech devices were tested so far.Which joysticks were tested?Many joysticks in the wild are using the same digital protocol or are backwards compatible to the analog joysticks as they were used back in the days in DOS. Following list contains all the devices wich were reported by others as working so far:Gravis Analog Pro (analog)Gravis PC GamePad (analog)Gravis GamePad ProQuickShot QS-123E "Warrior 5" (analog)QuickShot QS-201 "Super Warrior" (analog)QuickShot QS-203 "Avenger" (analog)Sidewinder GamePadSidewinder 3D ProSidewinder 3D Pro PlusSidewinder Precision ProSidewinder ForceFeedBack WheelLogitech WingMan Extreme DigitalLogitech CyberMan 2InterAct UltraRacer PC (analog)Sidewinder 3D Pro can be switched between analog and digital mode and in analog mode it can emulate the ThrustMaster and CH FlightStick. That's why you see them in the table above. Unfortunately I don't possess those joysticks in reality, so it may be that the implementation is not quite correct.What is auto calibration?Old analog joysticks have resistors inside, which are specified to be 100 kOhm. Unfortunately, these resistors are either worn out, bad quality or were wrong from the beginning. Therefore most of the generic analog joysticks had adjustment screws to correct the center point of the joystick. Also many games had calibration options in their settings to readjust the joystick. With USB and new digital solutions the calibration was not required anymore and was completely implemented in the joysticks and/or drivers. Many modern games have no option to re-calibrate the joystick anymore. If we try to play such newer games with an old analog joystick through this adapter, the joystick center point would be totally offset. That's why the adapter implements auto calibration internally and presents already corrected values to the operation system.ATTENTION: a hard requirement for using the analog joysticks is that during plugging into the USB port all axes must be in their middle state, because all the subsequent calibration happens based on the initial state.Technical insights into implementationThe code is well documented, so if you are interested in the details, feel free to take a look into the driver implementation. All the analog joysticks were actually a straight forward task, but the Sidewinder digital protocol was kind of tough. There are already some implementations of Sidewinder protocol made for Arduino. However, they are mostly only for the Sidewinder GamePad and not really universally made. In the end I was heavily inspired by the Linux Sidewinder driver implementation. The code you can see in this project is a complete rewrite, I just took the Linux driver implementation as a reference to understand how it works. Also the Sidewinder patent US#5628686A helped a lot, especially with switching between digital and analog mode for Sidewinder 3D Pro.In opposition to the already mentioned Sidewinder for Arduino implementations, this one doesn't rely on interrupts. This implementation is from a similar idea to what the Linux driver does. It polls the port and makes a lot of things simpler due to synchronous process. The biggest problem was that the Sidwinder devices send the data incredibly fast, with a clock pulse of only 5us. It was not possible to use Arduino's digitalRead(...) function for that. It was too slow with about 2.7us per call on an Arduino Pro Micro of 16MHz. It simply made it impossible to poll 5us pulses, with such a slow function, not even considering doing something with the data in between. So out of that need, my own implementation came about, which is up to 50% faster and needs only about 1.6us per call, on the same hardware. The custom I/O functions made it possible to read the data with the speed which a Sidewinder joystick requires. The best part is that the code is written in pure C++. It is very simple to read and to use. There are no macros, no assembler or any dirty hacks, just a lot of optimization.Bill of materials (BOM)The hardware is super simple. To build an adapter you'll need the PCB from this project and following parts:PartQtyLCSC #Digikey #Mouser Electronics #CommentCONN11C77835609-5371-ND523-L77SDA15SA4CH4FDB15 female connectorR1..R44C17296513-MFR-25FTE52-100KCT-ND603-MFR-25FTE52-100K100 kOhm resistorsSW11C157812449-KG04ET-ND642-DS04TDIP-4 switchU11C72120ED3051-5-ND649-DILB24P-223TLFDIP24 Socket (optional)U11N/A1568-1060-ND474-DEV-12640Arduino Pro Micro (ATmega32U4 16MHz, 5V), including two 12 pin header connectors, MicroUSB version (see "Known issues")Known issuesSome axes on an analog joystick are offsetAuto calibration requires all the axes to be in the center position during initialization. Please see the paragraph about auto calibration.Joystick doesn't workMake sure that you are using one of supported joysticks or a joystick which can work in legacy analog modeMicroUSB port on the Arduino is not stable enoughUse the USB-C version of the Arduino instead.Or always keep the MicroUSB cable attached to the Arduino MicroUSB version to avoid further wear and apply plug/unplug operations only on the remote side of the cable.How to help the project?The best way is to implement more drivers. Since I have only the joysticks mentioned above, I can't contribute more than what is currently included.Special thanksI would like to give some special thanks to Creopard from the German dosreloaded.de community for providing me the mentioned joysticks. Without that donation this project wouldn't be possible. Especially dealing with Sidewinder 3D Pro was a very exciting task.LinksLinux Sidewinder DriverSidewinder patentCreopard Retro Site

Bu projenin gerber dosyasini indirip sizde yapabilirsiniz

It all started with the invitation to participate in a contest consisting of designing an amateur student rover, for simulating a small-scale lunar mission, back in 2019. A group of friends with the same goal got together working for a whole year non-stop for making this dream, a reality. This part of the project consists of a set of printed circuit boards that gave life to the "RAMS Rover", the main PCB board can communicate wirelessly via radio frequency with a LoRa transceiver module, or Bluetooth communication with an additional module. It uses the ATMEGA2560 microcontroller just as the Arduino MEGA (hence the name "Juanduino MEGA", which a friend of mine suggested), the main board incorporates all essential components to operate the microcontroller properly (resonator or oscillator with its couple of capacitors), the codes can be uploaded via ICSP port (also used for bootloader) or via Serial port for using a FTDI USB to serial converter, this made it easy to program it using the Arduino IDE. A pair of voltage regulators and pads for the transceiver and all available microcontroller pins out made this board capable of connecting to several custom modules that, when all together, they could do various different functions to satisfy our needs, in this specific case, we needed to move the DC Motors attached to the wheels and move a robotic arm with help of some Linear actuators. I figured out that the best option was to make everything modular as if one system failed, it could be easily replaced with another repeated module.The modules themselves, interact with the main board for controlling and powering DC Motors with help of the Pololu VNH5019 DC Motor Drivers. The remaining module, just as necessary, it makes use of the Pololu Jrk G2 21v3 Drivers, to control several linear actuators, also from Pololu. A wireless controller was also made for controlling the actions of the rover (movements) with the ATMEGA2560 as its microcontroller and the LoRa Ra-02 433MHz as the transceiver. This controller read signals from two joysticks and six potentiometers, as well as four push buttons, the option of using an IMU sensor such as a GY-87/GY-801 or an MPU6050 for controlling the rover was also available.Design and construction of these PCB's took over 6 months before manufacturing, as, they went through 28 different re-designs to get to the desired looks and getting the minimal trace width correct for every signal.On March 11th, the first national contest "Hacia una Base Lunar 2019" (Towards a Lunar Base 2019) took place in Ensenada City, Mexico. Needless to say, our rover won the 1st place among 14 competing rovers after simulating a small-scale lunar mission, all the way from maneuvering on irregular terrain and collecting rock samples was no problem at all, all of this was controlled wirelessly at a distance with help of a Graphic User Interface and wireless cameras. This would have not been possible if it wasn't for every person involved in the designing, financing, making and performing of the rover, to all of the above, thanks.You can support the team by following us on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/uabcrams/You can watch our participation and the RAMS Rover in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0s

I have used these PCBs in an ISP programmer Shield for ‘Arduino UNO’. This programmer is compatible with the microcontrollers: ATmega 48/88/168 / 328P with 28 pins, and ATtiny 25/45/85 with 8 pins. ### TECHNICAL DETAILS / COMPONENTSISP programmer for ATmega / ATtinyBy making a small modification on the ATmega ISP programmer, we can make it compatible with ATtiny 8-pin micro-controllers. If we observe the distribution of the pins of the ATtiny microcontrollers, we can verify that if we inserted them in the socket of the ATmega programmer (28 pins), positioning the pin 1 of the ATtiny in pin 9 of the ISP programmer, we would hardly have to perform 2 changes in the circuit to be able to program them. 1) Pin 12 of the ISP programmer could be connected directly to the GND line, necessary to feed the ATtiny when we are programming it ... and the connection of pin 12 to GND of the ATmega doesn’t affect its programming. 2) In pin 9 of the ISP programmer we will have to put a small switch, by means of the position of a jumper, to connect the quartz crystal when we have to program an ATmega. When we have to program an ATtiny, pin 9 of the socket will have to be joined with pin 1 (changing the position of the jumper) ... since pin 9 of the socket corresponds to pin 1 of ATtiny = Reset (see the diagram) ### LEARN / TOPIC / BUILD INSTRUCTIONSFor more details to build an ISP programmer for ATmega / ATtiny, you can see them on my Web page:http://j-rpm.com/2018/07/shield-programador-isp-atmega-attiny-arduino/...sorry, but it's in Spanishhttp://j-rpm.com.es/2018/07/shield-programador-isp-atmega-attiny-arduino/

SlieldClon is a board designed, specifically for mClon. It allows secure connections to manipulate the robot. It has the basic components for its operation, as well as access to all free connections to be able to add new elements. The robot with ShieldClon feeds through a 18650 Li-ion battery 3.7V, which you can recharge through the board.This plate can be complicated to weld by students that do not have much experience, since it has many components and pins very together, but it is a good challenge to learn.From the mClon team, we consider it important that students understand the robot's internal functioning, who knows their components and what their function is, so we recommend starting from 4th of ESO not to give the plate already welded, unless previously practiced with protoShield. However, shieldClon can be a good option for work with younger students, always inviting them to connect the sensors and actresses on the shield pins themselves.Is valid to be able to carry out many STEM projects based on Arduino

Board to control an x27 motor via 12-15 volt PWM.Input 12-30v and outputs 5v for the ATtiny85 that controls the motorInput for the PWM needs to be around 12-15 volts, this will be lowered to 5v(or less) for the ATtiny to read.X27 stepper motor is to be mounted on the back for better clearance, the circuit is on the front side.My current code is on GitHub and is almost set up for an ls swap Speedo. (Currently, it's an older version I created to set up for a 1966 C10Speedo Gauge)https://github.com/joeyjoey1234/Ardunio---x27-Stepper-Speedo-Gauge---LS-Swap The code will need to be adjusted for its needle starting point and degrees moved per MPH.Code can be reconstructed for RPM etc., just take my program as an example for steps, etc.Area for pin headers on the bottom right for reprogramming of the ATTiny85 to your liking.

NOTE: This listing is for the "Keyboard PCB" of the Stream Deck build! The project also requires the "Interface PCB," which can be purchased here.Arguably one of the best streaming tools besides a camera, microphone, and lights is a Stream Deck, a macro keyboard with an LCD screen behind the buttons, which allows users to program custom shortcuts to control their streaming software and various other applications. Unfortunately this surge in interest has made these devices either difficult to find or very expensive. Because of this, I decided to create an open source version, which will hopefully make it easier for those interesting in streaming to go live online, and to make it possible for individuals to create the custom Stream Deck that best suits their streaming needs.These files accompany the "DIY Stream Deck" video found on the Super Make Something YouTube channel. Be sure to check out the video and download code for this project on Github, which also contains a complete bill of materials you will need to build this project!The 3D printable STL and STEP files for this project can be downloaded on Thingiverse.If you enjoyed this project, consider subscribing to the Super Make Something YouTube channel for more cool builds! If you really like this build and want to support future projects, you can become a patron on Patreon.

The true measurement of a battery’s capacity is essential for many scenarios. A capacity measurement device can solve the problem of spotting fake batteries as well. Nowadays fake Lithium and NiMH batteries are everywhere which don’t handle their advertised capacities. Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish between a real and a fake battery. This problem exists in the spare batteries market, such as cell phone batteries. Furthermore, in many scenarios, it is essential to determine the capacity of a second-hand battery (for instance a laptop battery). In this article, we will learn to build a battery capacity measurement circuit using the famous Arduino-Nano board. I’ve designed the PCB board for dip components. So even beginners can solder and use the device.More details please check:https://www.pcbway.com/blog/technology/Battery_capacity_measurement_using_Arduino.html