A ADD-ON board for a prebuils ESP32 relais board to control ws28xx leds an the power supplyFeaturesWS2812FX library integrated for over 100 special effectsFastLED noise effects and 50 palettesModern UI with color, effect and segment controlsSegments to set different effects and colors to parts of the LEDsSettings page - configuration over networkAccess Point and station mode - automatic failsafe APUp to 10 LED outputs per instanceSupport for RGBW stripsUp to 250 user presets to save and load colors/effects easily, supports cycling through them.Presets can be used to automatically execute API callsNightlight function (gradually dims down)Full OTA software updatability (HTTP + ArduinoOTA), password protectableConfigurable analog clock (Cronixie, 7-segment and EleksTube IPS clock support via usermods)Configurable Auto Brightness limit for safer operationFilesystem-based config for easier backup of presets and settingsSupported light control interfacesWLED app for Android and iOSJSON and HTTP request APIsMQTTBlynk IoTE1.31, Art-Net, DDP and TPM2.netdiyHue (Wled is supported by diyHue, including Hue Sync Entertainment under udp. Thanks to Gregory Mallios)HyperionUDP realtimeAlexa voice control (including dimming and color)Sync to Philips hue lightsAdalight (PC ambilight via serial) and TPM2Sync color of multiple WLED devices (UDP notifier)Infrared remotes (24-key RGB, receiver required)Simple timers/schedules (time from NTP, timezones/DST supported)

The materials required to build this project are listed below, in the Bill of Materials section. The tools we will need to use to construct the robot are:A 3D PrinterScrewdriver set with Philips and Hex BitsCordless DrillJig Saw, if cutting the wooden board manuallyDrill Bit set with M3 and M4 sizesHammerElectrical PliersTools to remove supports and clean the 3D printed partsSet of small wrenchesMultimeterSoldering Station30V, 1A Power Supply(Optional) A set of hex sockets and driverAutomation is increasingly present in our day to day lives. In the personal area, homes are being equipped with smart home devices and on the industrial side, more and more sectors are in the process of integrating programmable machinery to help in completing or simplifying tasks. One sector that has profited from this is education, where 3D printers are being used to enhance customized teaching and showcase the actual technology to prospective engineering. The following project aims to create a machine capable of drawing on an A4 sheet of paper from a digital drawing. To do this, the drawing as an image file will be converted thanks to a program to g-code, that allows the robot's motors to draw the image. It has been decided that the robot will have 3 degrees of freedom.A 3D printer was used to create all main components of the robot, while pre-made screws and rods were used. The main requirements for the Mechanical part are:3D printer with PLA material8-mm smooth steel rods8-mm ball bearing (X4)3-mm and 4-mm screws with nuts75 X 75 CM wooden boardFor manufacturing, the plastic parts will be formed by plastic injection modelling because it can create products with a 0.09mm accuracy which is more the enough for this product, in addition to being cheap and popular for this type of plastic model. Steel rods and screws used are standard market items and available.CAD Design Assembly:The first step is to insert the ball bearings and then the rods into the bearing holder and the motor into its slot, then place the cover on top and use 4mm screws with nuts.Then insert the endings of the bottom two rods in the bases and screw the bases to the wooden board at maximum length.After that, the two bases of the X-axis mechanism will be fixed using inner screwing and the pen holder will be placed in its slot using 4-mm long screws. After that the Y-axis tension pulley will be fixed on the wooden board.A more detailed description can be found in the repository Circuit Design:The requirements for the electrical circuit are simple: the circuit needs to be able to drive the robot's axes in the x and y directions, move the tool head up and down on the z-axis, and be able to perform homing calibration independently. The circuit should also be robust and compact enough so it can be mounted to the robot base plate.The CNC Shield is attached to the Arduino and Stepper Motor Drivers are inserted into the X and Y axis slots and the Bluetooth Module draws power from a 5V pin on the Arduino that is left unoccupied by the CNC Shield.For the Protoboard, a normal board was used. The connectors soldered to the board are Dupont Female Headers for connections to the Arduino and JST XH Female pins for connections to the robot hardware for robustness, although Dupont headers can be used.The end-stops are wired to be in the NO (Normally Open) configuration, although if the user prefers, they can be wired in the NC (Normally Closed) configuration with changes to the code made.The rest of the connections are straightforward and detailed in the figures listed.Software:we will need to upload a custom program/firmware that will derive the motors and guide the drawing tool, allowing us to realise a drawing from input file commands, with the possibility to monitor the machine and configure its performance accordingly. Additionally, an optimal method to convert the desired drawing/photo to a simple input file that can be interpreted by the Arduino to derive the respective commands are required. Firstly, for the optimization of the machine, MIGRBL Firmware is used, it is an open-source, embedded, high-performance g-code-parser for NC controllers written in optimized C, it translates the coordinates command written in a G-Code to respective X, Y and Z movements, and it fully gives the option to modify the machine parameters, most important ones to us are:Feed rate [mm/min]: Speed of the drawing tool along the x-y plane.Step size [steps/mm]: The number of steps made by the stepper motor to move one mm on each axis.Servo Angle [Degree]: The angle required to raise the tool head.Max travel [mm]: maximum travel from end to end for each axis in mm, useful for using soft limits switches.Next, after preparing our controller we need to convert the drawings/pictures to a G-Code file, we can use commercial software such as Inkscape, as it gives more freedom when generating the code, such as we can specify the dimension of the drawing area and drawing style (Filling, Edge outlining), Hence, allowing us to have more than one drawing modes.Moreover, after generating the G-Code file and having our controller ready, we need a communication interface between the controller and the user device, hence, Universal G-Code Sender (UGS) is used, it allows us to visualize the working mode of the machine for each of the commands while configuring the above-listed machine’s parameters. Below you can see the total flow and integration of the individual software. Code Files:MIGRBL firmware for the interpretation of the G-Code command: https://github.com/robottini/grbl-servo.gitInkscape for the Conversion of the drawing file make sure you install MIGRBL extension as well: https://inkscape.org/Universal G-Code sender to send the input file and monitor the machine: https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender.gitIntegration:after preparing the components from all of the subsystems, we are now ready to assemble the machine. the pictures shows the main parts that are installed accordingly.Firstly, as shown in figure, tag 1 and 2 shows the installation of the X directional axis motor and the limit switch, while 3 and 4 shows the installations of the Y directional axis motor and Y axis limit switch accordingly. after fixing them in the frame, the mount assembly looks like this.When fixing the motors for the translation movement, the belts have to be tightened well to decrease the slip and increase the drawing accuracy, in this machine, for the X direction belt. A smooth pulley fixed and tightened in a mid position between the two bases was used, while for the Y it is done by fixing the pulleys in this fashion.Shown in tag 6 and 5, the drawing tool frame and the servo motor are placed, the drawing tool is raised and lowered by the movement coming from the servo-shafts rotating in a 0-90 degrees, they are both connected by a nylon wire, Furthermore the tool can be replaced or adjusted by the screws, as shown bellow.Next, we can start the wiring for electrical part as discussed in Section 5.2.1, the connection for the actuators and sensors were all joined in the proto-board, and assembled inside the Electronics Box, Furthermore the picture below shows the cross section of the box.Finally, after the assembly of the Electrical connection, and plugging the power supply to the shield, the machine is ready to be connected to the user device (either by Bluetooth pairing or USB connection), meaning that we can now start drawing.Demo Project Show:The below video shows the working of the robot with a small feed rate for visualization of the process, however, the user can increase the drawing speed of the robot as he wishes from UGS.Bill of materials:Here is a list of materials with the price for a pack, the number of item on the pack and the number used. In total used column, it’s the price for the number of units used.I hope you have fun designing this machine!I have also posted this projects to Instructables community, here is the link: https://www.instructables.com/Draw-Robot/

Making an Arduino Touch Sensitive LED SignI love to work with electronics. In the near future I’m going work on a dedicated place for all the electronics work I do. To decorate this place I would like to build all kinds of cool stuff and gadgets. For starters I build this Arduino Touch Sensitive LED Sign.Some time ago I found the Arduino capacitive touch library. Immediately I could think of several cool applications. For this project I use an Arduino Nano to detect when the sign is touched. I programmed a ON/OFF function and when the sign is touched for a couple of seconds the colour changes. When releasing the sign the present colour is selected.A new experience with this Arduino Touch Sensitive LED Sign project, was polishing aluminium. I used five different grits of sanding paper and two polishing compounds. Getting this mirror finish took a good three hours. Maybe some good polishing equipment can help to speed thing up.Although the engraving isn’t spot on, I’m happy with the result of the Arduino Touch Sensitive LED Sign. I’m sure it will look great when the new workshop is finished !Arduino code#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h> #include <CapacitiveSensor.h> #define PIN 10 #define LEDS 1 int DELAY_TIME = 500; int COUNTER = 0; boolean LIGHT_STATE = false; Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(LEDS, PIN ,NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); CapacitiveSensor cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2); // 1 megohm resistor between pins 4 & 2, pin 2 is sensor pin, attach to metal body void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF); // turn off autocalibrate on channel 1 - just as an example Serial.begin(9600); strip.begin(); strip.show(); // strip.setPixelColor(0, 69, 255, 0); // ORANGE RED strip.show(); } void loop() { long total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1>400) { COUNTER++ ; } else { COUNTER = 0; } if((total1>400) && (!LIGHT_STATE)) { strip.setPixelColor(0, 69, 255, 0); // ORANGE RED strip.show(); delay(400); LIGHT_STATE = true; } total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if((total1>400) && (LIGHT_STATE)) { strip.setPixelColor(0, 0, 0, 0); // ORANGE RED strip.show(); //. delay(400); LIGHT_STATE = false; } while(COUNTER>3) // while loop to sellect the led colour { strip.setPixelColor(0, 255, 0, 0); //GREEN strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0,0, 255, 0); //RED strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 0, 0, 255); //BLUE strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 69, 255, 0); // ORANGE RED strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 255, 255, 10); // YELLOW strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 69, 139, 19); // BROWN strip.show(); //. delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 0, 139, 139); // Purple strip.show(); //. grb delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } strip.setPixelColor(0, 165, 218, 32); // GOLD strip.show(); //. grb delay(DELAY_TIME); total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); if(total1<400) { break; } } }

Hi! This "RC Shield for MSP430G2ET Launchpad" is an extension of my RC Car project which uses Arduino Nano at the RC Car side and MSP430 Launchpad at the transmitter side. Both modules use nRF24l01+ as the transceiver module.The Transmitter was really hard to handle since it had lots of jumper cables, potentiometers and analog joystick all mixed together. That's why I decided to design a PCB "Shield" to handle the controller easier. And thanks to PCBWay, I got my "shield" in a very short time.Details about the project can be seen here:The RC Car project can be seen in detail in the following instructable:https://www.instructables.com/DIY-RC-CAR-MSP430-Arduino-Nrf24l01/To finish this project, you need additional components to be soldered to the "Shield", you can see them in one of the project pictures that I attached, these are:1* Two Axis Analog Joystick2* 10K Potentiometer2* 10 pin male header (all male headers are for mounting the "Shield" to the female headerside of the MSP430 Launchpad)1* 2 pin male header (all male headers are for mounting the "Shield" to the female headerside of the MSP430 Launchpad)2* 4 pin female header (this is optional but highly recommended, used for mounting the nrf24l01+ module, do not solder it directly)1* 5 pin female header - 90 degrees (to mount the 5 pin analog joystick)1* 10-100uF capacitor1* 4 pin dip switch (this is also optional, if you want to enhance your controller for digital input, I did not use it in my example)Once you finish the soldering (I hope you have good skills for that, otherwise it'll take serious time, honestly) , you can mount it on the MSP430G2ET Launchpad and power the Launchpad with a power bank or any other 5V power supply with usb output:Once you mount it and you have your RC Car ready (shown & described in the instructable), you can have fun with your controller and RC car!

Breadboard Compatible CAN-BUS Breakout ModuleWhat is this:Some of us have already used the commonly available CAN-Bus breakout modules available on the market. They are extremely cheap, and work well. They are however designed to be used with 5v logic, like an Arduino. It is also quite possible to use level converters to make them work with 3v logic ( like the Raspberry Pi, ESP32 etc.)The existing modules are also not breadboard compatible.This is thus my humble attempt to make my own life ( as well as maybe someone else's) a bit easier...The two modules side by side for comparison.How does it work? / What features does it have?The board uses the MCP2515 SPI CAN Controller from Microchip, with the TJA1050 CAN Transceiver. Both of these are extremely cheap and easy to get hold of. The MCP2515 is 3v or 5v compatible, but the TJA1050 is a 5v only device.Features:5 Bi-Directional Level converters, based on the BSS138 N-Channel MOSFET, also a very cheap and readily available component.Clearly labeled 3v and 5v logic pinsBreadboard compatibleJumper to enable the 120ohm ballast resistor for use in short distance CAN NetworksDimensions: 63mm x 24mmThe Breakout module is compatible with Arduino, ESP32, ESP8266, Raspberry Pi, Raspberry Pi Pico as well a STM32 and other micro-controllers that are equipped with an SPI bus.SchematicSoftwareThe breakout board will function with most of the popular Arduino or Micropython/ Circuit Python CAN Bus Libraries.

This project is a continuation of my earlier weather station project. It was quite popular on the web, people around the globe made their own by following it and give valuable feedback for improvement. By taking consideration of the comments and Q&A section of my earlier project, I decided to make this new version Weather Station. I also made a custom PCB for this project, so anyone with little knowledge on electronics circuit can be made this project. My V-2.0 PCB can also be used for many application in Arduino platform. Following are the salient features of the new weather station.Features:1. Connect to Wi-Fi, and upload the data to the web ( Blynk App and Thingspeak)2. Monitoring Weather parameters like Temperature, Pressure, Humidity, altitude and UV level etc.3. Extra ports to add more sensors4. Remote Battery Status Monitoring5. Uses a powerful Li-Ion Battery ( 3400 mAh ) and Solar Panel (1W)6. Independence from the external power source7.Can be installed in remote sites or geographically challenging environments8. Being Solar powered, it is an environment-friendly device.Buy PCB :You can buy the PCB and all the components in a single Kit from PCBWayNote:Battery and 3D printed enclosure is not included in the kitComponents Used :1. Wemos D1 Mini Pro (Banggood / Amazon )2. TP 4056 Charging Board ( Amazon )3. BME 280 sensor ( Amazon / Bangood )4. BMP280 ( Banggood / Amazon )5. DS18B20 Sensor ( Amazon )6. Switch (Amazon)7. Screw Terminals ( Banggood)8. PCB standoffs ( Amazon )9. 18650 Battery ( Amazon)10.18650 Battery Holder ( Banggood / Amazon)11. Solar Panel ( Banggood )12. Straight Headers Pin ( Amazon )13. 22 AWG wire ( Amazon )14. Super Glue ( Amazon )15. 3D printing filament -PLA ( GearBest ) Power SupplyMy plan is to deploy the Weather station at a remote place ( my farmhouse).To run the Weather Station continuously, there must be a continuous power supply otherwise the system will not work. The best way to provide continuous power to the circuit is by using a battery. But after some days the battery juice will run out, and it is a really difficult job to go there and charge it. So a solar charging circuit was proposed to user free energy from the sun to charge the batteries and to power the Wemos board. I have used a 18650 Li-Ion battery.The battery is charged from a Solar panel through a TP4056 charging module. The TP4056 module comes with battery protection chip or without the protection chip. I will recommend buying a module which has a battery protection chip included.Monitoring Temperature and Humidity by BMP/E280In the earlier days, weather parameters like ambient temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure were measured with separate analog instruments: thermometer, hygrometer, and barometer. But today the market is flooded with cheap and efficient digital sensors that can be used to measure a variety of environmental parameters. The best examples are sensors like DHT11, DHT 22, BMP180, BMP/E280, etc.In this project, we will use BMP280 / BME280 sensor.BMP 280 :BMP280 is a sophisticated sensor that very accurately measures barometric pressure and temperature with reasonable accuracy. The BME280 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch and is the upgrade to the BMP085/BMP180/BMP183 - with a low altitude noise of 0.25m and the same fast conversion time. The advantage of this sensor is that it can use either I2C or SPI for communication with the microcontroller. For simple easy wiring, I will suggest buying the I2C version board.BME280 :The new BME280 sensor, an environmental sensor with temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. The BME280 is the next-generation of sensors from Bosch and is the upgrade to the BMP280. This precision sensor from Bosch is the best low-cost sensing solution for measuring humidity with ±3% accuracy, barometric pressure with ±1 hPa absolute accuracy, and temperature with ±1.0°C accuracy. It can be used in both I2C and SPI.Note: BME280 can measure humidity but BMP280 can't. In the market, BMP280 is also available by the name of BME280. So be sure whether it is a BMP280 or BME280.Additional Ports for More Sensors The Weather Station V2.0 board have 5 additional ports to hook up more weather sensors. The following additional sensors can easily be hooked up :1. GY-1145 Sensor: for measuring UV IndexThe SI1145 is a sensor with a calibrated UV sensing element that can calculate the UV Index. It can communicate via I2C communication (address 0x60). You can hook up this sensor with I2C port in the board which is located just side to the power switch.You can read this article to know more about this sensor.2. HDC1080: for measuring temperature and humidityThe HDC1080 is a digital humidity sensor with an integrated temperature sensor that provides excellent measurement accuracy at very low power. It can also communicate via I2C communication.You can read this article to know more about this sensor.3. DS18B20: for measuring temperatureIt can measure temperature with a minimal amount of hardware and wiring. These sensors use a digital protocol to send accurate temperature readings directly to your development board without the need of an analog to digital converter or other extra hardware. It uses a one-wire protocol to communicate with the microcontroller. It can be hooked up in port-P2 in the board which is located on the right side of the Wemos board.You can read this article to know more about this sensor. Using an External Antenna ( 3dBi ) The Wemos D1 mini Pro board have an inbuilt ceramic antenna along with provision for connecting an external antenna to improve the range. Before using the external antenna, you have to reroute the antenna signal from the built-in ceramic antenna, to the external socket. This can be done by rotating the small surface mount (0603) Zero Ohm resistor (sometimes called a link).You can see the above picture, how I have done this.You can also watch this video made by Alex Eamesto to rotate the zero ohm resistor. Then snap the antenna SMA connector into the Wemos Pro mini antenna slot.Monitoring Battery VoltageThe weather station is run by a 18650 Li-Ion battery, so it is very important to monitor its status. The max voltage input to the Wemos board is around 3.2~3.3V but a fully charged 18650 battery voltage is 4.2V. So to measure this voltage we have to step down the voltage by using a voltage divider network.The Wemos D1 mini already has an internal voltage divider that connects the A0 pin to the ADC of the ESP8266 chip. The voltage divider is made up of 220k (R1) and 100k (R2). So, we have to add an external resistance with the inbuilt 220k resistor to read the battery voltage. By using a 100k resistance we can measure the max voltage of the battery, but taking some margin, a 220k resistor is selected. It is named R1 on the PCB board and located just above the battery holder.To select the voltage divider resistance values, you can use this online calculator.You can also read this article on battery voltage monitoring. Implimenting Deep Sleep Mode The heart of the Wemos Board used in our Weather Station is an ESP8266 SOC which is a power hungry chip. Our objective is to run the device by using a 18650 battery but the demand for power usually makes battery operation impractical.Another problem is that as the device will run continuously, it is quite obvious that the device will experience warming, and therefore the measured temperature will be higher than the ambient temperature.From the above, it is clear that we have to lower the power consumption of the ESP8266 WiFi chip. To do that, we’ll use the Deep Sleep mode which is the most power efficient option for ESP chip. It allows to put the ESP8266 into hibernation and saves the battery. You can wake up it at regular intervals to make measurements and publish them.Component Operation mode ----- Sleep mode1. ESP8266 170 mA -------- 10 uA2. CH340 12 mA --------- 50 uA3. Built-in LED 3 mA ----------- 0 uA4. Voltage monitor 0.006 mA ----- 6 uA-----------------------------------Total185 mA ---- 66 uAIf the sleep-wake cycle is 10 minutes, with a 30 second wake time, the energy consumption budget looks like this:Wake time 185 mA for 0.5 minutes = 92.5 mA-minutesSleep time 0.066 mA for 9.5 minutes = 0.627 mA-minutesTotal in 10 minutes = 93.13 mA-minutesThus the average current consumption is 9.3 mA.Selecting the Solar Panel From the previous step, it is concluded that the average current consumption is 9.3 mACharge required for running the device for the whole day = 9.3 mA x 24 Hours = 223.2 mAhThere is no current gain in the linear regulator used in the WeMos, so any current used at 3.3V results in the same current at 3.7V or whatever voltage the battery is at.The amount of solar insolation varies according to which part of the globe you are located at. To find out the amount of solar insolation in your area, you can use the Global Solar Atlas. By taking consideration into minimum 1 hour of full sunlight, we are going to select the solar panel.So, our target is to generate 223.2 mAh in 1 hour.To charge a 3.7V Li-Ion battery, a solar panel of voltage 5 to 6V is adequate.Required Solar Panel rating = 223.2 mA at a voltage of around 5 to 6 volts.Solar panel rating = 223.2mA x 5V = 1.1WSolar Panel Selected : 1W / 5V to 6VIn this project, I have used a 5V,200mA Solar Panel ( 99 x 69 mm)So a 1W panel should be enough to run the project even in winter in places with a high latitude.Note: If your location receiving ample amount of sunlight, then a 0.66W solar panel which I have used in my earlier version also work.PCB Design I have drawn the schematic by using EasyEDA online software after that switched to PCB layout.All of the components you added in the schematic should be there, stacked on top of each other, ready to be placed and routed. Drag the components by grabbing on its pads. Then place it inside the rectangular border line.Arrange all the components in such a way that the board occupies minimum space. Smaller the board size, cheaper will be the PCB manufacturing cost. It will be useful if this board has some mounting holes on it so that it can be mounted in an enclosure.Now you have to route. Routing is the most fun part of this entire process. It’s like solving a puzzle! Using the tracking tool we need to connect all the components. You can use both the top and the bottom layer for avoiding overlap between two different tracks and making the tracks shorter.You can use the Silk layer to add text to the board. Also, we are able to insert an image file, so I add an image on of my website logo to be printed on the board. At the end using the copper area tool, we need to create the ground area of the PCB.Now the PCB is ready for manufacturing.PCB Fabrication Once we are completed the PCB design we just need to click the “Gerber output” button, save the project and we will be able to download the Gerber files which are used to manufacturing the PCB.Assembling the PCB After receiving the board from the PCB fab house, you have to solder the components.For Soldering, you will need a decent Soldering Iron, Solder, Nipper.First I cut the straight male and female headers pin for Wemos Board, TP4056, BMP/E 280 and for all the ports.Following are the details about the headers :1. Wemos Board - 2 x 8pins Female2. BMP280 - 1 x 6pins Female3. I2C Port - 1 x 4pins4. Port P1 - 1 x 4pins5. Port P2- 1 x 3pins6. Port P3- 1 x 4pins7. Port P4- 1 x 3 pinsIt is good practice to solder the components according to their height. Solder the lesser height components first.I have started by soldering the resistors, switch and then moved towards the bigger components like headers pin, screw terminal and battery holder.Adding the Modules and Battery After assembling the header pins, switch and screw terminal, it is time to insert the boards into their respective headers. The headers are clearly labeled on the PCB, so there is no chance of confusion.First I place the TP4056 board and solder all the pads.Then I added the Wemos Board and BME280 Sensor.Finally, I inserted the 18650 battery into the battery holder. Mounting the StandoffsAfter adding all the parts, mount the standoffs at 4 corners. I used M3 Brass Hex Standoffs.Use of standoffs will provide sufficient clearance to the soldering joints and wires from the ground.3D Printed EnclosureTo give a nice commercial product look, I designed an enclosure for this project. I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to design the enclosure.The enclosure has two parts:1. Main Body2. Cover LidThe Main Body is basically designed to fit the Weather station V2.0 PCB (85mm* 83mm).The Cover lid is to cover up the main body opening.I used my Creality CR-10 printer and 1.75 mm green PLA filament to print the parts. It took me about 11 hours to print the main body and around 3 hours to print the top lid.My settings are:Print Speed : 60 mm/sLayer Height: 0.2mm ( 0.3 also works well)Fill Density: 25%Extruder Temperature: 200 deg CBed Temp: 60 deg CDownload the STL files from ThingiverseYou can also have a look into the enclosure designed by 3KU_Delta.Download the STL file of his design from ThingiversePut the PCB Inside the Enclosure First, insert the M-F hex standoffs into the four mounting slots in the enclosure.Then fix the PCB board over the standoffs by aligning its four screw holes at the corner.After inserting the four standoffs, I have faced difficulty to fix the PCB due to small misalignment. So I am thinking to modify the mounting stand to fix the 3M screw directly instead of hex standoffs.Installing the Components After mounting the PCB, you have to install the BME280 module and Wemos board.Then insert the jumper JP2.Insert the SMA connector into the holes provided in the enclosure. Then tighten the nut along with the washers. Now install the antenna by properly aligning with the SMA connector.At last, put the 18650 battery inside the battery holder. Make sure you have to insert with the right polarity. The polarity is marked in the battery holder, PCB as well as on the battery.3D Printed Stevenson Screen My enclosure design was a decent looking enclosure but it was not ideal for the weather station. The ideal enclosure for keeping the weather sensors is the Stevenson Screen. A Stevenson screen is an enclosure for weather sensors against rain and direct heat radiation from outside sources, while still allowing air to circulate freely around them.The Stevenson Screen for Solar Weather Station V2 is designed by my friend Glen. This has a simple wall mount and a 2 part cover to isolate the heat transfer from the solar panel. I really appreciate his work.You can download the .STL files from ThingiverseYou can watch the above video for 3D printed Stevenson Screen assembling.Video Credit:digiblurDIYTIP: Spray the fully assembled PCB with Lacquer Spray to protect the board and components, but you do need to put a little tape over the BME280 temp sensor hole to not block it.Interfacing With Blynk App Step-1: Download the Blynk app1. For Android2. For iPhoneStep-2: Get the Auth TokenIn order to connect the Blynk App and your hardware, you need an Auth Token.1. Create a new account in the Blynk App.2. Press the QR icon on the top menu bar. Create a clone of this Project by scanning the QR code shown above. Once it detected successfully, the whole project will be on your phone immediately.I've made Sol Weather Station app. You are welcome to try it out!To start using it: 1. Download Blynk App: http://j.mp/blynk_Android or http://j.mp/blynk_iOS 2. Touch the QR-code icon and point the camera to the code below 3. Enjoy my app!3. After the project was created, we will send you Auth Token over email.4. Check your email inbox and find the Auth Token.Step-3: Preparing Arduino IDE for Wemos BoardTo upload the Arduino code to Wemos board, you have to follow this InstructablesStep-4: Arduino SketchAfter installing the above libraries, paste the Arduino code given below.Enter the auth code from step-1,ssid, and password of your router.Then upload the code.Uploading Sensor Data to ThingSpeak First, create an account on ThingSpeak.Then create a new Channel on your ThingSpeak account.Find How to Create a New Channel Fill Field 1 as Pressure, Field 2 as Temperature, Field 3 humidity, Field 4 as altitude and Field 5 as Bat Voltage.In your ThingSpeak account select “Channel” and then “My Channel”.Click on your channel name.Click on “API Keys” tab and copy the “Write API Key”Open the Solar_Weather_Station_ThingSpeak code.Replace the “WRITE API ”with the copied “Write API Key”.You can see my live feed.Software and LibrariesTo use Wemos D1 with the Arduino library, you'll have to use the Arduino IDE with ESP8266 board support. If you haven't already done that yet, you can easily install ESP8266 Board support to your Arduino IDE by following this tutorial by Sparkfun.Following settings are preferable :PU Frequency: 80MHz 160MHzFlash Size: 4M (3M SPIFFS) – 3M File system size 4M (1M SPIFFS) – 1M File system sizeUpload Speed: 921600 bpsLibraryBefore uploading the code install the following libraries :1. ESP82662. BMP2803. BlynkYou can read this tutorial by Sparkfun to install the Arduino libraries.In my earlier version, there are two separate codes for Blynk and Thinspeak but in this version, we have written a single piece of code. The user has to only comment out a single line of code for Blynk or Thingspeak. For example, if you are using it for Blynk App, the code should be as below: const String App = "BLYNK"; // alternative is line below // const String App = "Thingspeak"; // alternative is line above Credit: I want to give a lot of credit to Keith Hungerford, who has guided me to make this project more powerful. The software library for BMP280 is also written by him. You can read his Instructable on BMP280 power saving mode.Note: Before using the deep sleep feature, Wemos D0 pin must be connected to the RST pin. This can be done by shorting the jumper JP2.Update : 15.05.2019You can also see excellent work done by 3KUdelta on his GitHub Page. In his V2.3 code, he included the famous Zambretti forecaster. I really appreciate his hard work for the improvement of the project.The software provides short term forecast in words (4-6 hours) using the famous Zambretti forecast model :4-6 hour forecast in wordsTrend in wordsTemperatureDewpointHeat IndexHumidityAbsolute PressureRelative PressureBattery Voltage (V)Adding Wind Sensors Update on 05.04.2020For a weather station, it is very essential to monitor wind speed and direction. The wind speed is measured by anemometer and wind direction is by the wind vane. You can buy the sensors from Sparkfun or Amazon.My friend honzek from the Czech republic hooked up the wind sensor in Weather Station PCB V2.0 to monitor the wind speed and direction. He also used the 3D printed Stevenson screen to keep the PCB and other sensors. The outcome of his project is extremely good, you can see the above picture.I am sharing his work because it will be an inspiration for many more. I would like to give special thanks to honzek for sharing the pictures and Arduino Code.You can also see the Arduino Code for his project, attached below.More Information:Instructables : https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiFi-Weather-Station-V20/My Website: Solar Powered WiFi Weather Station V2.03D Printed Enclosure :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3395393https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615016https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551386 Arduino Code:GitHub : https://github.com/3KUdelta/Solar_WiFi_Weather_Stationhttps://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-hdc1008-temperature-and-humidity-sensor-breakout/wiring-and-test

Crypto Mining using microcontrollers, wait what!!! Are you serious? How?Believe it or not, the rig you see onscreen actually mines a crypto currency called DUINO-Coin (?) or DUCO. The total cost of this rig is only $35.Now, if you believe me! then, grab yourself a cup of coffee, sit back and watch this video and start your journey into cryptocurrency with DUINO-Coin! What is DUINO-Coin?DUINO-Coin (?) was founded in 2019 and is a for-fun project. This project was developed by a team of young developers that focuses on energy efficient mining. It's mostly, but not only, dedicated to people who are just starting out in the crypto world and it doesn't require any expensive hardware.DUCO is a transparent, open-source, centralized, eco-friendly coin that focuses on mining with low-powered devices like Arduino. DUCO tries to achieve a reward system using "Kolka" a name derived from Coca Cola making the low-powered devices like Arduino earn almost the same or even "more" than a powerful device like CPUs or GPUs. It also prevents people from building huge mining farms. It causes each additional miner to earn a bit less from the previous one.DUCO is "centralized" and has an "infinite supply" and hence you can mine this coin forever.You can Mine DUCO using: Android smartphone Computer's CPU Arduino (or compatible AVR) Raspberry Pi, Orange Pi or Banana Pi ESP8266/ESP32 (or compatible boards) Internet browser on PC or smart-TVs Arduinos using ESP8266 as a host Arduinos using Raspberry Pi as a hostCentralization: Making Arduino and other low powered devices not only profitable, but just possible would be impossible to maintain if the coin was decentralized. Hence, DuCo is a centralized coin with it's own chain. It is however possible to wrap (convert) DUCOs to wDUCO, bscDUCO, celoDUCO or maticDUCO to store them in decentralized form on another coin's chain. To start your journey, have a look at the getting started with Duino-Coin webpage. Then, create a wallet to store your coins. Next, download the miner binaries for the device you are going to mine the coin.If you are super tech savvy, then have a look at the coins whitepapers. The link is in the description below.In my setup, I am mining DUCO using NodeMCU. SchemaThe setup is very simple. In my setup I have added an extra LED to give my board a bit of Si-Fi look.Mining with ESP boards allows you to mine headlessly - you don't need to have them connected to a computer as they have their own Wi-Fi capabilities to connect to the server.The BoardNow, lets have a look at my board. You can hookup, 5 x NodeMCUs to this board. Each NodeMCU has its own flashing LED. The board can be powered using just 5v using a USB cable.So, this is how the NodeMCU DUCO Miner blade looks like in 3D.SolderingLets start by soldering all the small components to the board. I first soldered all the LEDs and the resistances to the board.Since I care a lot about my Sensors and Microcontrollers, I am not going to solder them directly to the board. Instead I am soldering 'female pin headers' to the board which will house the NodeMCUs in them.Finally, I soldered a USB cable to power the blade. I extracted this cable from a broken iPhone's charger.CodeI downloaded the code from the DUINO-coins website. The current version is 3.0. I downloaded the windows version and then added my code block to make the blue LED flash on my blade. In the code, you just need to edit few line in the top section to add your Wi-Fi details and the name of the NodeMCU.If you're using an ESP8266 board, you can set the clock speed (Tools > CPU frequency) to 160 MHz to achieve better hash-rates.Then, just go ahead and upload the code one by one to all your NodeMCU's. Before adding the NodeMCU to your rig, it is a good idea to check it using the Arduino Serial Monitor (Tools > Serial Monitor), set the baud rate to 500000 baud and see how's the ESP is doing. If everything is correct, you should see messages saying that a share was accepted.If it all works fine, your ESP will mine as long as it has power and internet connection.DemoSo, this is how my final setup looks like.To be very frank, the setup actually looks like having a small Christmas tree on your table, ha ha.Hash-RateMining DUCO at this stage is not very profitable. However, I just wanted to share the hash-rate table with you guys.Remember, Kolka will play an essential role, as you keep on adding devices to your rig. So, the hash-rate you will get may not be same as what you see on-screen.Claiming Via FaucetsYou can also claim DUCO via web-faucets.I have scene many faucets coming in and completely disappearing, so the links provided in the video may not be valid when you try to access them.The first one in list is the "faucet.duinocoin.com". You can claim 1 DUCO from this website by solving a captcha to start your journey. Remember you can only claim once from this website.The next one is the "furim.xyz". Again, you just need to solve a captcha to earn some DUCO.The 3rd one in list is "duco-faucet.pcgeek.pl" same as the other two, you can claim some DUCO every 15 minutes by solving a captcha on this website.Exchanging DUCOAfter mining some DUINO-Coins, you may want to exchange them to some other currency. To exchange your coins, simply visit the website and select the currency you want to exchange. At the moment of writing this tutorial, DUCO Exchange supports XMG, BCH, TRX, BYND and LKE coins.After deciding which coin you want exchanged, simply fill in the exchange form and wait for the exchange to happen (it may take up to 72 hours). You'll shortly receive an e-mail confirming the process and describing any further steps if needed.Other exchanges:Other exchanges supporting DUINO-Coin are Node-S, PancakeSwap, SunSwap, and SushiSwap. ThanksThanks again for checking my post. I hope it helps you.If you want to support me subscribe to my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/tarantula3Blog Posts: https://diy-projects4u.blogspot.com/2022/05/DUCOMner.htmlVideo references: https://youtu.be/EhhSaQm-QK0CodeRelease 3.0 Original: https://github.com/revoxhere/duino-coin/releases/tag/3.0Release 3.0 Modified: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VhXl81TYWWwfeJQcksMMMdQ9oFS56tf7/view?usp=sharingResource PagesGetting started: https://duinocoin.com/getting-startedCreate Wallet: https://wallet.duinocoin.com/registerApp list: https://duinocoin.com/appsExchange: https://exchange.duinocoin.com/White Paper: https://github.com/revoxhere/duino-coin/blob/gh-pages/assets/whitepaper.pdfDashboardsDashboard-1: https://wallet.duinocoin.com/Dashboard-2: https://duco.sytes.net/index.phpDashboard-3: https://duco.pcgeek.pl/Facets ListFaucet-1: https://faucet.duinocoin.com/Faucet-2: https://furim.xyz/faucet.htmlFaucet-3: https://duco-faucet.pcgeek.pl/DiscussionDiscord: https://discord.gg/kvBkccyReddit : https://www.reddit.com/r/Duinocoin/Support My Work:BTC: 1M1PdxVxSTPLoMK91XnvEPksVuAa4J4dDpLTC: MQFkVkWimYngMwp5SMuSbMP4ADStjysstmDOGE: DDe7Fws24zf7acZevoT8uERnmisiHwR5stETH: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60BAT: 0x939aa4e13ecb4b46663c8017986abc0d204cde60LBC: bZ8ANEJFsd2MNFfpoxBhtFNPboh7PmD7M2Thanks, ca again in my next tutorial.

Build a cheap and simple DIY Digital Soldering Station, a budget friendly Hakko 907 alternative! Enjoy the variable constant temperature feature and quick warm-up times. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Digital-Soldering-Station/Project Specifications:- Designed for Hakko 907 handles- Compatible with similar handles- Temperature Range: 27°C-525°C- Warmup Time: 25s - 37s (325°C)- Recommended Supply: 24V, 3A- Power: 50W (Average)

Antenna in Wireless Communication:Antennas are everywhere! An Antenna is an electrical device that converts electric power into electromagnetic waves or radio waves and vice-versa. In every wireless communication, antennas are involved. For instance, let's consider important devices like mobile phones, a T.V, routers, wireless modems, game controllers, and Bluetooth devices. These devices depend on wireless communication and they have an antenna linked to them.Antennas can transfer signals fatly and easily. Take an example of an airplane, the pilot needs to frequently communicate with the air traffic controllers. They can easily communicate wirelessly without any interruption or distortion of signals.How do they work? The antennas can be used for both transmission and reception of electromagnetic waves. The transmitting side of the antenna collects electrical signals from a transmission line and converts them into radio waves whereas the receiving side of the antenna accepts radio waves from the space and converts them to electrical signals and gives them to a transmission line.Properties of an Antenna:Voltage Standing wave ratio (VSWR)NoiseInput ImpedancePolarizationGain and EfficiencyPattern of radiationAntenna Analyser:An antenna analyzer is a radio frequency analyzer used for determining the performance of antenna systems in radio electronics applications. It is a signal generator that sends a signal to the attached load and a readout that displays a set of results. It measures the impedance matching of the electrical circuits made up of the transmitter or the receiver, RF feeder, and antenna. Impedance matching determines how much energy from the transmitter reaches the antenna and how much of the RF signal received by the antenna actually reaches the receiver.This antenna analyzer measures the SWR of the antenna to verify maximum power transfer from the transmitter to the antenna. It is also used to measure the efficiency of the systems. They are the best tool to determine and detect the antenna.Schematic:It is a 0-40MHz amateur radio antenna analyzer. A pocket device that measures the parameters of the antenna easily. We can add LCD to display graphically the results of the analysis.I have used the Altium designer to design my schematic diagram. I have uploaded my schematic file online on Inventhub for the users who want to implement my design. They can go to the provided link and can view or download my design easily. I can also view the changes I have made in my design by going to the ‘view changes’ tab. I can also collaborate with the people, they can comment on my design and can give suggestions to improve my design further.PCB Design:I have converted my schematic file to the PCB file in Altium, where I can create connections on the board, define the shape of the board, arrange the components on the board, and can view my PCB in 3D view. I have uploaded my PCB file on Inventhub, where I can view my boards in different layers and can focus on a specific layer by disabling the other layers. Users and manufacturers can easily view or download my design for the implementation.Release file:I have created a release file of the project on Inventhub which contains all the design files in a ZIP file format. For the fabrication, I do not need to visit the manufacturer instead I can send him the release file of the project. He can easily download the files and can fabricate my PCB board.Project History:To create a backup of my design, I have uploaded different revisions of my design on Inventhub. This contains the changes in my design at different stages. If I want to get back the specific change I have made in my design, I can go to the revision and can select that particular file and can download it to reuse it as my current design.Bill of Materials:After the fabrication of the board, I created a list of components on Inventhub which contains the details of the manufacturer, supplier, manufacturer part number, pricing, and quantity. By just putting these details in the BOM file on Inventhub, I can easily calculate the total cost of my project automatically using the supply chain option. I can also view the datasheet of the component and can view its 3D model. Instead of visiting the component provider, I can send him this BOM file, he can download it in CSV file format and can deliver my components as per my design requirements.

It all started with the invitation to participate in a contest consisting of designing an amateur student rover, for simulating a small-scale lunar mission, back in 2019. A group of friends with the same goal got together working for a whole year non-stop for making this dream, a reality. This part of the project consists of a set of printed circuit boards that gave life to the "RAMS Rover", the main PCB board can communicate wirelessly via radio frequency with a LoRa transceiver module, or Bluetooth communication with an additional module. It uses the ATMEGA2560 microcontroller just as the Arduino MEGA (hence the name "Juanduino MEGA", which a friend of mine suggested), the main board incorporates all essential components to operate the microcontroller properly (resonator or oscillator with its couple of capacitors), the codes can be uploaded via ICSP port (also used for bootloader) or via Serial port for using a FTDI USB to serial converter, this made it easy to program it using the Arduino IDE. A pair of voltage regulators and pads for the transceiver and all available microcontroller pins out made this board capable of connecting to several custom modules that, when all together, they could do various different functions to satisfy our needs, in this specific case, we needed to move the DC Motors attached to the wheels and move a robotic arm with help of some Linear actuators. I figured out that the best option was to make everything modular as if one system failed, it could be easily replaced with another repeated module.The modules themselves, interact with the main board for controlling and powering DC Motors with help of the Pololu VNH5019 DC Motor Drivers. The remaining module, just as necessary, it makes use of the Pololu Jrk G2 21v3 Drivers, to control several linear actuators, also from Pololu. A wireless controller was also made for controlling the actions of the rover (movements) with the ATMEGA2560 as its microcontroller and the LoRa Ra-02 433MHz as the transceiver. This controller read signals from two joysticks and six potentiometers, as well as four push buttons, the option of using an IMU sensor such as a GY-87/GY-801 or an MPU6050 for controlling the rover was also available.Design and construction of these PCB's took over 6 months before manufacturing, as, they went through 28 different re-designs to get to the desired looks and getting the minimal trace width correct for every signal.On March 11th, the first national contest "Hacia una Base Lunar 2019" (Towards a Lunar Base 2019) took place in Ensenada City, Mexico. Needless to say, our rover won the 1st place among 14 competing rovers after simulating a small-scale lunar mission, all the way from maneuvering on irregular terrain and collecting rock samples was no problem at all, all of this was controlled wirelessly at a distance with help of a Graphic User Interface and wireless cameras. This would have not been possible if it wasn't for every person involved in the designing, financing, making and performing of the rover, to all of the above, thanks.You can support the team by following us on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/uabcrams/You can watch our participation and the RAMS Rover in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa0HB27RXGI&list=PL_oKau96aoiwkGvxn3L0naupZyCes-oJO&index=10&t=0s

I have used these PCBs in an ISP programmer Shield for ‘Arduino UNO’. This programmer is compatible with the microcontrollers: ATmega 48/88/168 / 328P with 28 pins, and ATtiny 25/45/85 with 8 pins. ### TECHNICAL DETAILS / COMPONENTSISP programmer for ATmega / ATtinyBy making a small modification on the ATmega ISP programmer, we can make it compatible with ATtiny 8-pin micro-controllers. If we observe the distribution of the pins of the ATtiny microcontrollers, we can verify that if we inserted them in the socket of the ATmega programmer (28 pins), positioning the pin 1 of the ATtiny in pin 9 of the ISP programmer, we would hardly have to perform 2 changes in the circuit to be able to program them. 1) Pin 12 of the ISP programmer could be connected directly to the GND line, necessary to feed the ATtiny when we are programming it ... and the connection of pin 12 to GND of the ATmega doesn’t affect its programming. 2) In pin 9 of the ISP programmer we will have to put a small switch, by means of the position of a jumper, to connect the quartz crystal when we have to program an ATmega. When we have to program an ATtiny, pin 9 of the socket will have to be joined with pin 1 (changing the position of the jumper) ... since pin 9 of the socket corresponds to pin 1 of ATtiny = Reset (see the diagram) ### LEARN / TOPIC / BUILD INSTRUCTIONSFor more details to build an ISP programmer for ATmega / ATtiny, you can see them on my Web page:http://j-rpm.com/2018/07/shield-programador-isp-atmega-attiny-arduino/...sorry, but it's in Spanishhttp://j-rpm.com.es/2018/07/shield-programador-isp-atmega-attiny-arduino/

SlieldClon is a board designed, specifically for mClon. It allows secure connections to manipulate the robot. It has the basic components for its operation, as well as access to all free connections to be able to add new elements. The robot with ShieldClon feeds through a 18650 Li-ion battery 3.7V, which you can recharge through the board.This plate can be complicated to weld by students that do not have much experience, since it has many components and pins very together, but it is a good challenge to learn.From the mClon team, we consider it important that students understand the robot's internal functioning, who knows their components and what their function is, so we recommend starting from 4th of ESO not to give the plate already welded, unless previously practiced with protoShield. However, shieldClon can be a good option for work with younger students, always inviting them to connect the sensors and actresses on the shield pins themselves.Is valid to be able to carry out many STEM projects based on Arduino

NOTE: This listing is for the "Keyboard PCB" of the Stream Deck build! The project also requires the "Interface PCB," which can be purchased here.Arguably one of the best streaming tools besides a camera, microphone, and lights is a Stream Deck, a macro keyboard with an LCD screen behind the buttons, which allows users to program custom shortcuts to control their streaming software and various other applications. Unfortunately this surge in interest has made these devices either difficult to find or very expensive. Because of this, I decided to create an open source version, which will hopefully make it easier for those interesting in streaming to go live online, and to make it possible for individuals to create the custom Stream Deck that best suits their streaming needs.These files accompany the "DIY Stream Deck" video found on the Super Make Something YouTube channel. Be sure to check out the video and download code for this project on Github, which also contains a complete bill of materials you will need to build this project!The 3D printable STL and STEP files for this project can be downloaded on Thingiverse.If you enjoyed this project, consider subscribing to the Super Make Something YouTube channel for more cool builds! If you really like this build and want to support future projects, you can become a patron on Patreon.