ATmega328PB has a second UART port that is sharing pins with ICSP/SPI. While this can be handy for debugging you may need to swap ICSP and UART dongles. Or you can solder the UART wires to the ICSP connector but then you will get ICSP traffic on UART and vice versa. So I've decided to create this simple breakout PCB that connects between your device and the ICSP/UART dongles and features switches to enable/disable the shared pins. I've also included one SMD LED with resistor. It is not needed for the main function but it will signal if the device is powered. And it is a great way to try SMD soldering. And I've added also a reset button as there was a free space on the PCB...Here you can see the finished board plugged into a board with ATmega328PB MCU. You can see both UART and ICSP programs running on the screenshot (of course they can not communicate both in the same moment):If you look closely, you can see that I had to scratch a ground plane as I had error in my gerbers - I forgot to update ground zone fills in KiCad before exporting the gerbers... :The gerbers in this project are of course fixed.I also decided to be a little bit fancy and try white soldermask that PCBWAY offers and it looks great...

ridici releovy modul pro ovladani

Addon for ZX Dandanator! Mini. A Spectrum ZX peripheral with many features.

I needed a micro USB B connector for one project, I design a little PCB to convert the micro USB connector to THT pinhead with 2,54mm dimensions. Designed for USB B micro connector - MOLEX 47346-0001 .

This project was a Christmas present for my girlfriend, who loves Harry Potter. I decided to create a Bluetooth speaker with the Harry Potter design. I found some inspiration from Google Images for design. Because of lack of time I decided to buy a small Bluetooth speaker and just rebuild it.This DIY Bluetooth speaker is based on Bluetooth speaker CREATIVE MUVO 2c.Complete tutorial can be found on https://atoming.eu/harry-potter-bluetooth-speaker/ .3D parts for print can be found on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4396685

// RUУстройство обнаруживает текущий свет, и когда солнечный свет слабый, он активирует светодиод. The device detects the present light and when the sun light is low, it activates a LED. Компоненты, которые мы использовали для тестирования, являются стандартными резисторами. Внесенные нами изменения заменили D1 потенциометром 2К. ИК-передатчик D1 потреблял номинал 150 мА, что очень много для наших целей. В качестве источника питания использовался блок батарей и модуль повышающего преобразователя постоянного тока MT3608. Единственная ошибка, которую мы обнаружили, заключалась в том, что через некоторое время аккумуляторная батарея отключается и перезагружается. Этого можно избежать другим модулем или прямым подключением к аккумулятору.Модуль находится здесь: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6bOnQaПожалуйста, ограничьте входное напряжение максимум 18 В, иначе светодиод превысит 20 мА и загорится.Я изготовил свою печатную плату с PCBway.com. Компоненты, которые мы использовали, - это то, что у нас было в данный момент. В этом руководстве мы обновили печатную плату после тестирования первого варианта. Первый вариант работал, но выглядит немного иначе, чем инструктируемый. Например, мы припаяли резистор в том месте, где на старой плате находится след диода. Вы можете использовать старую печатную плату или изготовить новую.Весь проект находится в файле спецификации BOM. По ссылке PCBway.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Light_level_detector.htmlhttps://www.instructables.com/id/%D0%94%D0%B5%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BA%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%80-%D0%A3%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BD%D1%8F-%D0%A1%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%82%D0%B0-Light-Level-Detector/На устройство воздействует солнечный свет или лампочка с нагревательным проводом. На него не влияют новые энергосберегающие светодиодные лампочки.// ENThe components we used for the testing are standard resistors. The changes we made were, replace D1 with a 2k potentiometer. The D1 IR transmitter was draining 150mA nominal, which is very high for our purposes. For the power supply we used a battery bank and a module MT3608 DC to DC step up converter. The only fault we found was that in a short while the battery bank shuts down and restarts. A different module or a direct connection to the battery bank will avoid this.The module is here: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6bOnQaPlease limit the input voltage to 18V max or the LED will exceed the 20mA and burn.I produced my PCB from PCBway.com. The components we used are what we had at the moment. In this instructable we have updated the PCB after testing the first variant. The first variant was working, but looks a little different than the instructable. For example we have soldered a resistor on the place where a diode footprint is on the old PCB. You can use the old PCB or produce a new one.The whole project is in the BOM ZIP file. At the PCBway link.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Light_level_detector.htmlhttps://www.instructables.com/id/%D0%94%D0%B5%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BA%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%80-%D0%A3%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BD%D1%8F-%D0%A1%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%82%D0%B0-Light-Level-Detector/The device is affected by the sunlight or by a light bulb with a heat wire. It does not get affected by the new energy efficient LED light bulbs.

// RUУстройство обнаруживает текущий свет, и когда солнечный свет слабый, он активирует светодиод. The device detects the present light and when the sun light is low, it activates a LED. Компоненты, которые мы использовали для тестирования, являются стандартными резисторами. Внесенные нами изменения заменили D1 потенциометром 2К. ИК-передатчик D1 потреблял номинал 150 мА, что очень много для наших целей. В качестве источника питания использовался блок батарей и модуль повышающего преобразователя постоянного тока MT3608. Единственная ошибка, которую мы обнаружили, заключалась в том, что через некоторое время аккумуляторная батарея отключается и перезагружается. Этого можно избежать другим модулем или прямым подключением к аккумулятору.Модуль находится здесь: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6bOnQaПожалуйста, ограничьте входное напряжение максимум 18 В, иначе светодиод превысит 20 мА и загорится.Я изготовил свою печатную плату с PCBway.com. Компоненты, которые мы использовали, - это то, что у нас было в данный момент. В этом руководстве мы обновили печатную плату после тестирования первого варианта. Первый вариант работал, но выглядит немного иначе, чем инструктируемый. Например, мы припаяли резистор в том месте, где на старой плате находится след диода. Вы можете использовать старую печатную плату или изготовить новую.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/______...На устройство воздействует солнечный свет или лампочка с нагревательным проводом. На него не влияют новые энергосберегающие светодиодные лампочки.// EN The components we used for the testing are standard resistors. The changes we made were, replace D1 with a 2k potentiometer. The D1 IR transmitter was draining 150mA nominal, which is very high for our purposes. For the power supply we used a battery bank and a module MT3608 DC to DC step up converter. The only fault we found was that in a short while the battery bank shuts down and restarts. A different module or a direct connection to the battery bank will avoid this.The module is here: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6bOnQaPlease limit the input voltage to 18V max or the LED will exceed the 20mA and burn.The whole project is in the BOM ZIP file.I produced my PCB from PCBway.com. The components we used are what we had at the moment. In this instructable we have updated the PCB after testing the first variant. The first variant was working, but looks a little different than the instructable. For example we have soldered a resistor on the place where a diode footprint is on the old PCB. You can use the old PCB or produce a new one.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/______...The device is affected by the sunlight or by a light bulb with a heat wire. It does not get affected by the new energy efficient LED light bulbs.

Sinclair Spectrum Composite Mod PCBI designed a PCB to house several versions of the Spectrum Composite Mod. Details of how to impliment the PCB can be found in my series on Refurbishing a 48K Rubber Keyed Spectrum. The PCB simply replaces the existing Modulator PCB. I would recommend that you remove the original carefully and put it in storage, in case you ever wish to re-install it for authenticity.The PCB itself is very simple, requiring just a few components to operate. Choose which of the three options you would like to use.Option 1 is an Inverted Emitter Follower recommended to me by Andrew Gostling in an attempt to get a Dell UltraSharp 2007FP Monitor to work with a 48K Spectrum. Sadly, the monitor is extremely picky about it’s composite input and is well documented for it. In this instance it didn’t work. However, the composite mod works with all the other monitors I have tried it with.Option 2 is a simple NPN transistor and resistor mod. the NPN Transistor can be any general purpose device. I have used a BC547 in the past.Option 3 is a single 100uF capacitor which is seen to be the minimum required.I have had several conversations around the need for other components with regard to the composite mod. Some say that it is not necessary at all and others say that, in case the monitor goes faulty or is very badly designed, it can feed voltage back to the Spectrum. I recommend you do your own research and choose the option that best suits you (including a direct connection and/or suspending the components outside of the modulator box retaining the original PCB inside the modulator).

Gradually, the components come together for a new printer update. This time they delivered a wonderful extruder and various little things for him. Of course, the question arose of a new wiring, and this time I decided to make a printed circuit board for easy installation.STL files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4343142

Ultimate ESP32 flashing tool without compromises.

It is a DIY non-rack mountable 5-port RJ45 ethernet passthrough patch-panel board where are ethernet ports directly connected to the ports on the oposite side. It is designed for size <100mm so it has 5 ports (10 connectors). If you order 10pcs of boards you will get dynamicaly 5 to 50 ports in step of 5. For connectors search "RJ45 jack" in your favourite store, boards is desinged for use with connecters with alumium cover (not connector fully plastic) and for connectors without leds.

MicroSD breakout board.DON'T FORGET TO SET BOARD THICKNESS TO LESS THAN 0.75mm.

The circuit is not tested yet.

Its made with "Infra Red" leds(receiver and transmitter) from "eBay". The lighting, leafs, moving objects, shadows and wind will make a difference. Its only a first step prototype which is not recommended for real use. It needs extensive testing and a lot of improvement. During testing the "IR_transmitter" was burning a lot. Now I will replace it with a normal LED(5mm) and check the results.

https://www.hackster.io/adent/omen-kilo-3f8b9a

### DESCRIPTION### TECHNICAL DETAILS / COMPONENTS### LEARN / TOPIC / BUILD INSTRUCTIONS