mutantC is a Raspberry Pi UMPC. An open platform device to use any serious professional work and create your ecosystem of automation. It is fully Open-Source hardware. So you can hack it as you wish. Make your expansion-card like GPS, Radio etc and attach them. You can access all the ports of the Pi. The back part is attached with 4 screws. It can hold a 4" or 3.5" touch screen. Also have a 52 button physical keyboard. It doesn't need any custom OS, you can use plain Raspberry Pi OS and install the LCD driver, that's it. So little parts needed to make one. The priciest thing is the LCD and Pi.Please shear the link to all your friends .Project LinksYouTube Project Website Discord Matrix TwitterBuild Guide1. Order the parts from online, here is the full Parts list.2. Order the 3D printed parts, you need to print 4 parts, here is the parts files. You can Order them from PCBWay 3D printing service.3. Order the PCBs, there is 3 PCB you need, here is the files you need to order. You can also order the PCBs from PCBWay PCB prototype service. That way you can get the 3D parts and PCB fast within minimum days and save shipping costs.Now solder the parts and flash the firmware from here. Now flash a SD card with Raspberry Pi OS and install the LCD driver from the place you brought the LCD module.That's it you got your fully working mutantC v4. If you want to try out some Expansion Boards you can see some of them from here, there is 6 of them currently.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbU1bjAwaDnZZvXIBHzUXuQhttps://discord.gg/9nHn6YNr

After using the Microchip tools to program and debug the projects I work on, I wondered about creating my own programming/debugging module that I could put on my own boards – just like Microchip does with their starter kits and such. As I became more interested in that idea, I began to search the web to see if anyone else had already done something similar. Initially, I found lots of posts regarding the 2nd version of the Pickit – the Pickit 2, but not as much regarding the latest version – the Pickit 3 – which is what I need to program the 32 bit pic processors that I am using. After a while I came across a post – From this blogThis Individual had created his own version of the Pickit 3 and had posted his method for doing so. I was excited to see some real information about the process, and set about determining how I would do the same, now that I knew someone else had verified that it would work.The version that was built on the blog linked above, was done so on a protoboard using a variety of components, and was completely hand-wired. As impressive as that is, I was looking for something a bit sleeker – especially since I was looking at some point to modularize it and use it on other designs. I decided that I would design my project to use surface mount components and a purpose designed PCB. With that in mind, I set out to create my schematic. After looking at the one from Hendrik’s blog post above, and also studying the actual Microchip pickit 3 schematics that are publicly available in the documents released by Microchip, I came up with the following schematic. It is pictured below, and here is a link to the full-sized PDF: My SchematicActually, I did address it. In the section where I go over the areas on the schematic, I indicate one of the programming headers is used to load the pickit 3 code into the pic24 chip. Later, at the bottom of the article, I indicated that I was not hosting the HEX file that Microchip provides, but it can be easily found looking in the directories that are installed with the Microchip IPE application. (Or – online in several other locations…Google is your friend). Of course you will also need a programming device to program this device initially. I used a pickit 3 that I already had access to. Now I just use my own device whenever I make another one.

Часы на вакуумно люминесцентных лампах из 90-хновый набор, раздельные платы rev3.4 ИВ-6 (IV-6)https://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=86280http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1252533&postcount=12транс так:Т1,1 Т1,2 Т1,3 - это первичка 2 х по 6-7 витков проводом 0.3ммТ2,1 Т2,2 - это вторичка например 2 х по 45-50 витков, проводом 0.11мм.Т3,1 Т3,2 Т3,3 - это накал (1.2В) 2 х 1 виток проводом 0.3ммРезисторы в накал сразу ставьте не менее 10 Ом. Потом подбирайте.- Значения фьюзов в Hex: Low - E4. Остальные заводские.- на плате преобразователя на 3,3В для DS3231, но можно запитать DSку от 5В, если его нет. Просто поставить перемычку.

Часы на вакуумно люминесцентных лампах из 90-хновый набор, раздельные платы rev3.4 ИВ-6 (IV-6)https://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=86280http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1252533&postcount=12транс так:Т1,1 Т1,2 Т1,3 - это первичка 2 х по 6-7 витков проводом 0.3ммТ2,1 Т2,2 - это вторичка например 2 х по 45-50 витков, проводом 0.11мм.Т3,1 Т3,2 Т3,3 - это накал (1.2В) 2 х 1 виток проводом 0.3ммРезисторы в накал сразу ставьте не менее 10 Ом. Потом подбирайте.- Значения фьюзов в Hex: Low - E4. Остальные заводские.- на плате преобразователя на 3,3В для DS3231, но можно запитать DSку от 5В, если его нет. Просто поставить перемычку.?

Magic Eye Tubes! I've designed a project to show off the Russian 6E1P magic eye tubes.All the components are on one circuit board which needs to be powered by a regulated 12V power supply. There's a microphone on the board to make the tube respond to sounds in the room, plus a sensitivity control and optional external audio input on the back panel for connection to an audio system speaker etc.Here it is in action on YouTube...

Nixie Thermometer / HygrometerTubes, sensors and a micro in a single designNixie Thermometer / HygrometerMeasuring temperature and humidity with a modern sensor and displaying the values on a retro display — it’s all described in this article. A calibrated, ‘digital’ sensor provides data via its I2C interface to a microcontroller driving four Nixie tubes and automatically alternating between temperature and humidity, while providing a nice fading effect. It’s a must-have!Component listResistorsR1-R4 = 22kOhmR5,R11,R12 = 10kOhmR7 = 47kOhmR8 = not usedR9 = 820kOhmR10 = 330(R13 = 5.6kOhmR14 = 470kOhmR15 = 4.7kOhmR16 = 150(CapacitorsC1-C4 = 100pF 2000V, 10%, radial, 5mm pitch (Farnell #1141797)C5-C8,C11,C12,C16-C18 = 100nF 50V, 20%, pitch 5mmC9, C10 = 33pF 100V, 5%, 2.54mm pitchC13 = 10μF 250V, 20%, radial, 5mm pitchC14,C15 = 100μF 25V, 20%, radial, 2.5mm pitchC19 = 470pF, 100V, 10%, 5mm pitchInductorsL1 = 330μH 1A, 20%, axial, D×L = 11×32.5 mm (0.43”×1.28”) max.SemiconductorsD1 = BYV26D2-D4 = 1N4001IC1-IC4 = 74141 or K155ID1 (?155??1)IC5 = PIC16F876-20/SPIC6 = 7805IC7 = MC34063IC8 = SHT21 I2C humidity and temperature sensor [1] (Farnell #1855468)T1,T2 = MPSA42T3 = IRF820MiscellaneousX1 = 6MHz quartz crystalV1 = IN-19A, Nixie Tube (symbols)V2-V4 = IN-14, Nixie Tube (numeric)K1 = 2-way PCB terminal block, 5mm pitchPCB # 110321-1As you can see from the following pictures, the project progressed nicely…This picture shows the top view, without the last tube, which I was waiting forMost of the components are very easy to solder on. The Nixie tubes are very hard to get into the holes, but I managed it so anyone should be able to do it! However, the Sensirion SHT21 chip is 3mm x 3mm and is ridiculously hard to get on – this needs specialist attention and a steady hand. You can see the sensor in place in the picture below. Be sure to read the data sheet correctly, and don’t solder it on the wrong way (I *may* have done this!)The tubes eventually turned up – I was more excited than I probably should have been ??Finally the final tube came and was soldered into place – a really lovely display. The sensor has to be at least 15cms from the circuit board, otherwise you get spurious results from the heat of the components on the boardI built this case to house it, Im very very pleased with it

Nixie Tube ThermometerRetro temperature displayNixie Tube ThermometerIn this article we describe the union of a modern microcontroller with a classic display technology to create a novel temperature indicator. In its transparent enclosure the device will set off any mantelpiece to advantage and what’s more, the unit even doubles up as a night light. An external sensor allows the temperature at any desired location to be displayed.Extra info / UpdateFeaturesDisplay range: 00 to 99 (Celcius or Fahrenheit)Temperature sensor: Maxim-Dallas DS1820, accuracy 0.5 KPower supply: AC power adaptor, 12 V to 15 V DCCurrent consumption: 170 mA at 12 VTubes: Russian IN-16, 13-way solder connectionsMicrocontroller: Atmel AT89C2051 (available ready-programmed)Firmware: BASCOM (source and hex files available for free download)Options:- choice of Celsius or Fahrenheit display- tube illumination- LED trend (warmer/colder) indicatorsComponent listResistorsR1 = 4.7kOhmR2,R3 = 220OhmR4,R5 = 22kOhmR6 = 10kOhmR7 = 1kOhmR8 = 150OhmR9 = 820kOhmR10 = 5.6kOhmCapacitorsC1 = 10μF 63V, radial, 0.1 in. lead pitchC2,C3,C5,C7,C8 = 100nF ceramic, 0.2.in. lead pitchC4 = 10μF 250V, radial, 0.2 in. lead pitchC6 = 470pF, 0.2 in. lead pitchC9,C10 = 100μF 25V, radial, 0.1 in. lead pitchInductorL1 = 330μH, 1A, axial, DxL = 11x32.5 mm max., e.g. Epcos B82500CA8 or Fastron 77 A-331 M-00SemiconductorsD1,D3,D4 = LED, 3mm, blueD2 = LED, 3 mm, redD5 = 1N4004D6 = BYV26 (e.g. Vishay)T1 = IRF820 (Vishay, International Rectifier IRF820PBF)IC1 = AT89C2051-24PU, programmed, Elektor # 090784-41*IC4 = DS18S20 (Maxim/Dallas)IC5 = MC34063IC6 = 7805 (TO220)MiscellaneousX1 = 12MHz resonator, 3-pin, e.g. AEL Crystals type C12M000000L003JP1 = 2-pin pinheader, 0.1 in. lead pitch (optional jumper, see text)K1 = 2-way PCB screw terminal, lead pitch 5mmPCB # 090784-1

mutantC v3 - ThumbStick PCBThis is the main project https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/mutantC_v3__A_powerfull_HandHeld_to_rule_all_of_your_project.html

mutantC v3 - Display PCB

https://gitlab.com/mutantC https://www.reddit.com/r/mutantC/https://matrix.to/#/!dtgavqeIZQuecenMeX:matrix.org.There is 3 PCB you need, One is this and other 2 are below, Add this and other 2 in cart all togather.mutantC_v3_ThumbStick_PCBmutantC_v3_Display_PCB First take a look at this in 3D using AutoDesk Fusion 360 Online her?e.There are some key features.Have RTC & buzzer. Supports v2 Add-ons. A track point to have mouse support with left, right buttons. Gyro support using MPU6050 module & presure, temp and humidity support usin BME280 module. Able to turn of modules, Display, Add-ons using keyboard button. Full poweroff using OS and keyboard key. 12 pin docking port beside Pi USB ports with UART, I2C, Charging and GPIO. 3D parts are more solid and reduce supports when printing. Able to read battery voltage using Pro Micro. 2 LED's connected to Pro Micro with PWM support and 1 connected Pi. Move the stema/Qt I2c connector bottom so it is acessible from outside. It is fully open-source hardware. So you can Hack it as you wish.You can make your expansion-card like gps, Radio etc and attach with it. You can use any Raspberry-pi form factor like Asus Tinker Board S / PINE H64 Model B/ Banana Pi BPI-M4B etc. You can use Raspberry-pi zero to 4. You can access all the ports of the pi and the back part is attached with 4 screw. It can hold a 4" or 3.5" touch screen. Also have a physical keyboard attached via USB. 18650 battery with charge and discharge protraction . You can use Littlevgl make UI that don't need a OS form here. It don't need any custom image of Raspbian. You can use vanilla Raspbian and install the LCD driver, that's it. So little parts needed to make one. See the parts_list . You can use C Suite Application suite made more touch based device in this. This apps are suitable for small screens. See the C Suite. Added Adafruit STEMMA QT and SparkFun qwiic connector. Youtube channel.Here is the Project website.Project files in Gitlab .So make yours and help us to make a Community around it.https://gitlab.com/mutantChttps://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/mutantC_v3___Display_PCB.html

2 Layers PCB 17.78 x 22.86 mm FR-4, 1.6 mm, 1, HASL with lead, Green Solder Mask, White silkscreenSimple but fully loaded development board/programmer for the ESP8285 WiFi module. Embedded a USB to serial bridge and a battery charger.

Side PCB 11 pin for IceTube Clock Main board Rev. 0.382 layer board of 1.10 x 1.02 inches (28.0 x 25.8 mm)13 Segment Clock side board with grids and filament supply 11 pins Version 0.3 for 13 digit IceTube clock Revision 0.3813 Digit VFD Clock using IV-27 tube - Main board 5 Volt input. From Xmas Icetube Rev D. Added second MAX6921 for additional segments, and DS32KHZSN TCXO oscillator. Increased AC1 and AC2 trace width to support 185 mA current with less voltage drop. Removed 5 volt regulator and associated components. Replaced D2 with MAX40203 Ideal diode and improved layout, Rev 0.38Adapting the IV-18 IceTube clock design to use the 13 digit IV-27 VFD tube.After successfully building several of the IV-18 revision 2.2 clocks, and having an abundance of spare time due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I decided that I wanted to build a project that utilized the 13 digit IV-27 VFD display tube.My first thought was to build a calculator to utilize the added digits, until I received a request from my wife for a clock that displayed the day of the week constantly. That would definitely put to use the extra digits of the IV-27 tube, so I started to see what changes would need to be made to adapt the IceTube clock design.A very nice IV-27 pinout from the Ebay auction where I purchased the tubesIV-27 IceTube clock Rev. 0.3 operating on a 9 volt supply with extra heat-sinkhttps://www.barbouri.com/2020/07/04/iv-27-icetube-clock-project/

13 Segment Clock side board with grids and elements 15 pins Version 0.3 for 13 digit IceTube clock Revision 0.38?2 layer board of 1.10 x 1.02 inches (28.0 x 25.8 mm)13 Digit VFD Clock using IV-27 tube - Main board 5 Volt input. From Xmas Icetube Rev D. Added second MAX6921 for additional segments, and DS32KHZSN TCXO oscillator. Increased AC1 and AC2 trace width to support 185 mA current with less voltage drop. Removed 5 volt regulator and associated components. Replaced D2 with MAX40203 Ideal diode and improved layout, Rev 0.38Adapting the IV-18 IceTube clock design to use the 13 digit IV-27 VFD tube.After successfully building several of the IV-18 revision 2.2 clocks, and having an abundance of spare time due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I decided that I wanted to build a project that utilized the 13 digit IV-27 VFD display tube.My first thought was to build a calculator to utilize the added digits, until I received a request from my wife for a clock that displayed the day of the week constantly. That would definitely put to use the extra digits of the IV-27 tube, so I started to see what changes would need to be made to adapt the IceTube clock design.A very nice IV-27 pinout from the Ebay auction where I purchased the tubesIV-27 IceTube clock Rev. 0.3 operating on a 9 volt supply with extra heat-sinkhttps://www.barbouri.com/2020/07/04/iv-27-icetube-clock-project/

IV-27 IceTube clock Rev. 0.38 board operating on 5.25 volt supply2 layer board of 6.15 x 1.02 inches (156.1 x 26.0 mm)13 Digit VFD Clock using IV-27 tube - Main board 5 Volt input. From Xmas Icetube Rev D. Added second MAX6921 for additional segments, and DS32KHZSN TCXO oscillator. Increased AC1 and AC2 trace width to support 185 mA current with less voltage drop. Removed 5 volt regulator and associated components. Replaced D2 with MAX40203 Ideal diode and improved layout, Rev 0.38Adapting the IV-18 IceTube clock design to use the 13 digit IV-27 VFD tube.After successfully building several of the IV-18 revision 2.2 clocks, and having an abundance of spare time due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I decided that I wanted to build a project that utilized the 13 digit IV-27 VFD display tube.My first thought was to build a calculator to utilize the added digits, until I received a request from my wife for a clock that displayed the day of the week constantly. That would definitely put to use the extra digits of the IV-27 tube, so I started to see what changes would need to be made to adapt the IceTube clock design.A very nice IV-27 pinout from the Ebay auction where I purchased the tubesIV-27 IceTube clock Rev. 0.3 operating on a 9 volt supply with extra heat-sinkhttps://www.barbouri.com/2020/07/04/iv-27-icetube-clock-project/

I suspect that for many of you the name Numitron is new, while for many others it will bring back (hopefully fond) memories. The venerable electron tube (a.k.a., thermionic valve) has all but disappeared from the mainstream electronics world, and along with them related old technologies such as the Nixie tube (featured in previous N&V articles), Dekatrons, Numitrons, and Panaplex displays, and (to a lesser extent) Vacuum Fluorescent Displays (VFDs) have also faded into the background.This particular project was designed to showcase Numitron tubes (Figure 1), which are still available for a reasonable cost on eBay from old Russian cold war stock. As stocks (rapidly) dwindle, their cost increases steadily until they will be gone forever. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to build a useful project showcasing this beautiful cold war era component.FIGURE 1. A Numitron tube (with a penny for scale) ready to install.

This converter can be soldered on MicroUsb pads and with Type-C connector soldered on, it will convert your board to Type c capable. Therefore board thickness is only 0.8 mm. No need to use old and inconvenient MicroUsb cables anymore!