ESP32-Cam Motor Driver Shield L293D

A ADD-ON board for a prebuils ESP32 relais board to control ws28xx leds an the power supplyFeaturesWS2812FX library integrated for over 100 special effectsFastLED noise effects and 50 palettesModern UI with color, effect and segment controlsSegments to set different effects and colors to parts of the LEDsSettings page - configuration over networkAccess Point and station mode - automatic failsafe APUp to 10 LED outputs per instanceSupport for RGBW stripsUp to 250 user presets to save and load colors/effects easily, supports cycling through them.Presets can be used to automatically execute API callsNightlight function (gradually dims down)Full OTA software updatability (HTTP + ArduinoOTA), password protectableConfigurable analog clock (Cronixie, 7-segment and EleksTube IPS clock support via usermods)Configurable Auto Brightness limit for safer operationFilesystem-based config for easier backup of presets and settingsSupported light control interfacesWLED app for Android and iOSJSON and HTTP request APIsMQTTBlynk IoTE1.31, Art-Net, DDP and TPM2.netdiyHue (Wled is supported by diyHue, including Hue Sync Entertainment under udp. Thanks to Gregory Mallios)HyperionUDP realtimeAlexa voice control (including dimming and color)Sync to Philips hue lightsAdalight (PC ambilight via serial) and TPM2Sync color of multiple WLED devices (UDP notifier)Infrared remotes (24-key RGB, receiver required)Simple timers/schedules (time from NTP, timezones/DST supported)

Hi! This "RC Shield for MSP430G2ET Launchpad" is an extension of my RC Car project which uses Arduino Nano at the RC Car side and MSP430 Launchpad at the transmitter side. Both modules use nRF24l01+ as the transceiver module.The Transmitter was really hard to handle since it had lots of jumper cables, potentiometers and analog joystick all mixed together. That's why I decided to design a PCB "Shield" to handle the controller easier. And thanks to PCBWay, I got my "shield" in a very short time.Details about the project can be seen here:The RC Car project can be seen in detail in the following instructable:https://www.instructables.com/DIY-RC-CAR-MSP430-Arduino-Nrf24l01/To finish this project, you need additional components to be soldered to the "Shield", you can see them in one of the project pictures that I attached, these are:1* Two Axis Analog Joystick2* 10K Potentiometer2* 10 pin male header (all male headers are for mounting the "Shield" to the female headerside of the MSP430 Launchpad)1* 2 pin male header (all male headers are for mounting the "Shield" to the female headerside of the MSP430 Launchpad)2* 4 pin female header (this is optional but highly recommended, used for mounting the nrf24l01+ module, do not solder it directly)1* 5 pin female header - 90 degrees (to mount the 5 pin analog joystick)1* 10-100uF capacitor1* 4 pin dip switch (this is also optional, if you want to enhance your controller for digital input, I did not use it in my example)Once you finish the soldering (I hope you have good skills for that, otherwise it'll take serious time, honestly) , you can mount it on the MSP430G2ET Launchpad and power the Launchpad with a power bank or any other 5V power supply with usb output:Once you mount it and you have your RC Car ready (shown & described in the instructable), you can have fun with your controller and RC car!

Breadboard Compatible CAN-BUS Breakout ModuleWhat is this:Some of us have already used the commonly available CAN-Bus breakout modules available on the market. They are extremely cheap, and work well. They are however designed to be used with 5v logic, like an Arduino. It is also quite possible to use level converters to make them work with 3v logic ( like the Raspberry Pi, ESP32 etc.)The existing modules are also not breadboard compatible.This is thus my humble attempt to make my own life ( as well as maybe someone else's) a bit easier...The two modules side by side for comparison.How does it work? / What features does it have?The board uses the MCP2515 SPI CAN Controller from Microchip, with the TJA1050 CAN Transceiver. Both of these are extremely cheap and easy to get hold of. The MCP2515 is 3v or 5v compatible, but the TJA1050 is a 5v only device.Features:5 Bi-Directional Level converters, based on the BSS138 N-Channel MOSFET, also a very cheap and readily available component.Clearly labeled 3v and 5v logic pinsBreadboard compatibleJumper to enable the 120ohm ballast resistor for use in short distance CAN NetworksDimensions: 63mm x 24mmThe Breakout module is compatible with Arduino, ESP32, ESP8266, Raspberry Pi, Raspberry Pi Pico as well a STM32 and other micro-controllers that are equipped with an SPI bus.SchematicSoftwareThe breakout board will function with most of the popular Arduino or Micropython/ Circuit Python CAN Bus Libraries.

If you're like me, you're thinking that you'd like to own a Commodore 1581 Disk Drive, but the crazy high prices have kept you away from realizing your dream. Well, here is your chance to build your very own Commodore 1581 replica disk drive.This is my final revision where I've cleaned up some traces and refined the 1581D/1582 connections for linking two boards together when the builder wants to construct their own DUAL 1581 Drive (1581D/1582). This board is functionally identical to my other version posted here, just cleaned up some traces as as mentioned refined the link connection points.This is my 1581 Enhanced board. The PCB itself is based on the original board design, and as such, is compatible with the original case. Placement of the ports and switches are in the original locations. I wanted to make this board for the community in a way that anyone wanting a 1581 with a bit of skill (or friends with the skills required to assemble this) could have one of these drives for a fraction of the cost of an original drive.The board itself supports standard Amiga modified floppy drives, and with the Toms adapter board ( https://gitlab.com/toms01/1581-pc-drive-adapter ), all you need for a floppy drive is virtually ANY 1.44 IBM compatible floppy drive mech. The PCB supports single or dual drive ROMS, so you can for example have just the original DOS rom, or you can have JiffyDOS and the original rom (switchable from a jumper on the board).I've also enhanced the board such that you no longer need to use an original Commodore 1541-II/1581 power supply. Once built, you can power this board with ANY power supply between 7.5 and 25VDC. Either powering methods have been maintained on the board, and are selectable with a single jumper setting. This means, if you want to power it with any power supply you have laying around within those parameters, you can. Or, you can power the drive with a factory power supply. Only one method can be active at any time, so no damage can occur. I implore you however to observe the polarity markings on the PCB when hooking power up to the Alternate power circuit. Always best to double check before applying power.I'm also not restricting the use of this board. So you can purchase PCB's for yourself, or you can purchase a truck-load and sell them in your shop or on eBay. Do what you like with the boards. All I ask is if you're selling them, please link back to https://corei64.com . I am not however giving the Gerbers away, because providing them through PCBWay ensures you're going to get a quality product, and the small percentage I get from purchases of this board from PCBWay helps fund my ongoing efforts to provide other cool projects to our community.Your support is always greatly appreciated.I've created a Github for this project where you'll find photos, descriptive documents, BOM, everything you need to get this project going for yourself. Pick a PCB color, place your order and get building. If you have any questions, reach out to me through my shop, or on social media. I'm not hard to find.Enjoy!

In my other projects, I have demonstrated the power of the Ameba RTL8720D based IoT microcontroller via using their development board. However, when come to deployment or commercialization, we need as little "non-essential" components as possible so as to cut the cost and make more profit, here I am gonna show you how to DIY a minimalist 5G hz WiFi & BLE microcontroller using easy-to-find itemsDevelopment board that involves RF module and antenna design is generally alot harder to design and commercialize, as designing RF circuit can be challenging and yet once designed you have to get your design approved (e.g. FCC) before it can enter the consumer electronics market. That's why, it's a lot easier to design with a pre-certified RF stamp module.A stamp module contains only the bare minimal components that ensure it can be implemented by other customers easily, it's small and usually Not-For-Beginners, as there is,No programming circuit (e.g. USB-Serial module) No power regulating circuit (LDO or DCDC circuit)No breadboard friendly 2.54 pitch pin headersNo USB connectorHowever, it also means it's A lot CHEAPER than off-the-shelf dev boardA lot SMALLERMany room to improviseTherefore, if you think the good overweighed tha bad like I do, then this project is for you~The main IoT stamp module used here is the same module showcased in my other project , RTL8720DN (BW16) IoT microcontroller, the IC is from Realtek, but stamp module is designed by AI-Thinker, a well-known module manufacturer based in Mainland China.There are many interesting projects developed for this IC, you can find out more onhttps://www.instructables.com/RTL8720DN/More technical details,https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ameba-arduino-summary/

New April 2022 update!So far the state of the project:Finished / pros:-Cheap and use very few parts-Rechargeable, the LIC works really nice and it recharges quickly, also no dropping.-The microcontroller manages the charging so no need to add a voltage regulator.-It can be flashed with the usb cable, not standard though, UPDI needs to be feed intro the D+ signal of USB with a flashing solution like serial to UPDI, I know it isn't standard but it is very convenient and it works really well.-Now charging works ok using a mosfet controlled by timer A .-Sleep is implemented.To do / cons:-Still some concern about the charging voltage during sleep, need more testing, I am disabling the timer in sleep mode and returning the control to portmux.- Although using the usb to feed the UPDI signal is practical, I don't know if it would damage a computer if it is connected to it, it shouldn't since the UPDI is pulled up with a 30k resistor but still a concern.In case of connecting it directly to USB by mistake, using the UPDI adapter to send the signal is ok. I tested once and nothing happened but doing it repeatedly is another story.- 4k of flash is a small amount, in my case I have to chop content of the game, someone with more knowledge I am sure can fit more, considering in using a bigger micro????.

What is Class D Amplifier?As the name suggests D, is a digital amplifier. It is also known as a switching amplifier that uses the transistors and MOSFETs as electronic switches and performs quickly switching between the supply rails. There is a modulator available in this amplifier that shifts the sampling frequency to the highest frequency. That is why they are used in audio amplifiers to enhance the quality of sound. Using pulse width modulation, this amplifier converts the input (analog) signal to digital pulses. Their efficiency varies from 80% to 95%.Schematic Diagram:I have used the Altium designer to design my schematic diagram. First of all, I have created the symbols and footprints of all the components then I have designed my schematic. I have uploaded my schematic file online on Inventhub for the users who want to implement my design. They can go to the provided link and can view or download my design easily. I can also view the changes I have made in my design by going to the ‘view changes’ tab. I can also collaborate with the people, they can comment on my design and can give suggestions to improve my design further.PCB Board Design:I have converted my schematic file to the PCB file in Altium, where I can create connections on the board, define the shape of the board, arrange the components on the board, and can view my PCB in 3D view. I have uploaded my PCB file on Inventhub, where I can view my boards in different layers and can focus on a specific layer by disabling the other layers. Users and manufacturers can easily view or download my design for the implementation. Users do not need to design the symbols and footprints, they can download those parts from my components management library on Inventhub. This can help in reducing the errors in the design.Bill of Materials:After the fabrication of the board, I created a list of components on Inventhub which contains the details of the manufacturer, supplier, manufacturer part number, pricing, and quantity. By just putting these details in the BOM file on Inventhub, it has calculated the total cost of the design automatically using the supply chain option. I can also view the datasheet of the component and can view its 3D model. For this project, our cost is almost $17.23 which is reasonable.Instead of visiting the component provider, I can send him this BOM file, he can download it in CSV file format and can deliver my components as per my design requirements.

This video shows the motorized roller blind, which can be fixed to both ceiling and wall, compatible with various roller blind sizes, controlled via a WiFi using stepper motor and ESP8266.A few basic items are required for assembly and circuit build:Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 WiFi Board28BYJ-48 Stepper MotorULN2003x Stepper Motor Driver608zz BearingL7805 Voltage RegulatorCapacitor9V-12V Power SupplyBreadboardJumper WiresSource Code:Two things are required when programming Wemos D1 Mini and similar boards with ESP8266 chip. You will need add-on to programming the ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE.Open the shared source code with the Arduino IDE. First, install the ESP8266 add-on to program the Wemos D1 Mini.File > Preferences. Enter the ESP8266 add-on URL into the “Additional Boards Manager URLs”http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json Go to Tools > Board > Boards Manager. Search the ESP8266 and installGo to Tools > Board > Select the Wemos D1 MiniDefine the pins to which the stepper motors are connected. Remember, you must define pin numbers as GPIOEnter your Wifi SSDI and Password

The original Gerber files and BOM can be found at: https://github.com/chris-jh/mt32-pi-midi-hatThis HAT is intended to be used with the MT32-pi project (https://github.com/dwhinham/mt32-pi). This project emulates a Roland MT-32 module, and also supports external sound fonts, making it possible to emulate other modules like Yamaha XG, Roland Sound Canvas, etc.The Roland MT-32 MIDI module was supported with many, many PC/Atari/Amiga/Sharp 68000 games during the 90's and 2000's.It supports an external PCM5102 I2S DAC for great sound quality, and supports 128x32 and 128x64 OLED display, simple control buttons or an external rotary encoder.

About the ET-GC01:The ET-GC01 is the standalone version of our DIY ESP32/ESP8266 Geiger Counter. For more information check our BLOG post at: https://espthings.io/gc01About us:For a number of years, we, Michel and Paul, have been interested in the fascinating world of home automation. Where in the past the software was very much connected to the hardware you bought, nowadays there are a number of very nice open-source home automation software packages available.The software we both like the most is ‘Home Assistant’. It’s great software with support for a lot of types of sensors and devices. The best thing is that it supports homemade hardware sensors and devices! We noticed that a lot of people like to make hardware themselves. We also recognized a lack of well-designed circuits which can safely be built by people with not too much experience with electronics.Another thing we found many times searching around the web, is that published and shared designs were often PCB’s which were not designed to fit in a nice enclosure. Because of these issues we came up with the idea to start this website, espthings.io, where we will publish our own designs which can be easily built by everyone!For this project instructions and software configuration are freely available to ensure the project will be successful and works ‘as expected’. And lastly, we will always ensure that the PCB will fit in a nice enclosure, so that the finished project not only looks nice, but is also safe.Our goal is to ensure that everybody can build our projects. If you can’t wait to get started building, please read the ‘general information page’ first.If you enjoy our designs, please leave a comment and subscribe to our youtube channel, to help us grow the website and channel!

BARE METAL COMMODORE 64 EMULATOR(GPIO CONFIG2) (GEEKS' EDITION)Many thanks to Randy Rossi for BMC64 project.You can donate to Randy Rossi: https://accentual.com/bmc64/Hello,This is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;)BMC64 is a bare metal fork of VICE's C64 emulator optimized for the Raspberry Pi. It has 50hz/60hz smooth scrolling, low video/audio latency and a number of other features that make it perfect for building your own C64 replica machine. For more details visit the github link below.GitHub Link: https://github.com/randyrossi/bmc64INSTRUCTIONS:Download the 20MB Zip file from this linkhttps://archive.org/download/bmc-64-sdcard/BMC64SDCARD.zipFormat SD-Card Fat32Unzip the BMC64SDCARD.zip and copy the files into the SD-CARDInsert SD Card into Raspberry PiConnect the cables,(Last cable should be power source cable)Press Commodore key and F7 key together and release to enter BMC64 MENUGeeks' Edition consists of two parts that can be separated as a C64 keyboard and a Raspberry Pi GPIO Hat. In this way, you can connect the Raspberry Pi GPIO Hat part to a real C64 keyboard and use it. Apart from that, you can also use the keyboard part of PCB by connecting it to the Commodore 64 motherboard or for other different projects. The keyboard part has the same matrix structure as the real Commodore 64 keyboard.If you want faceplate applicable version PCB of this project , you can find it in the link below.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/DIY_COMMODORE_64_BMC64_CONFIG_2_WITH_WORKING_C64_KEYBOARD_8ebb9171.htmlMany thanks to artist Cem Tezcan (Blockmind) for his patience and contribution to working together.COMPONENTS:Raspberry Pi (compatible with BMC64 project)Micro SD Card2pcs. right angle DB9M 9 pin D-sub male connector.2x20 pin double row 2.54 pitch female header65pcs. 6x6x5mm 4-pin through hole tactile buttons3mm Red LED470ohm - 1K 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes LEDs brightness)Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.

Hello,This PCB is a Commodore 64 tactile buttons keyboard faceplate for some of my projects.It is produced especially for aesthetic purposes, it is not mandatory.I prefer white soldermask with Black silkscreen,For 1.6mm PCB thickness. 65pcs. of the 6x6x7mm 4-pin through hole tactile buttons are required.6 fixing screw holes and power LED hole are 3mm in diameter.Many thanks to artist Cem Tezcan (Blockmind) for his patience and contribution to working together.You may be interested in:COMMODORE 64 USB KEYBOARD project.COMMODORE 64 TACTILE BUTTON MINI KEYBOARDDIY COMMODORE 64 (BMC64 GPIO CONFIG-2)Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.