I love the Esp8266 module, especially the ESP12 form factor, wich for me is the best option for IoT projects.It offers a good compromise between size, IO capabilities and power consumption.But, the problem is the usability: the module by itself is not breadbord friendly, and it requires a few connection even for a basic boot.There are a lot of breakout board available to mitigate these problems, but i never quite find one that fully satisfied me.So i designed my own, with the following features in mind:Breadbord and perfboard friendlyCompact designEasy access to Flash And Reset actionsCapable of using both the MPC1700 and AMS117 Voltage regulatorNo extra hardware that might affect battery performanceThe board is small enough to fit on a micro breadboard (17columns and 10 rows), and still leave a column of pins on each side and several rows free.The pads on the back can accomodate two types of voltage regulators:MPC1700 wich is a LDO voltage regulator, with a low quiescent current. It's best suited for battery powered scenariosAMS117 3.3V wich is the default power supply for the ESP12 module. It's mostlly used for power hungry projects.The module can be programmed with a simple Usb To Serial converter.It's not a full developer board, but can be used for quick prototiping.If you want to avoid the trouble of adding all the necessary hardware to boot/manage the module in your design, you can simply drop in this module and you are good to go.NOTE: You must install only one voltage regulator for board. The two jumper on the front are not required: one if for the power led, the other for the enable pin. You can leave them unconnected of short the pads, accordingly to your needs.

Ce projet est un PCB utilisable pour AgOpenGPS, il est compatible avec la version officielle et ma version modifiée./!\ Attention, je ne suis pas expert dans la conception de PCB, il est donc possible que ce dernier ne soit pas 100% optimisé. Je partage ce projet, car on me l'a demandé, mais je ne serais en rien responsable si un problème devais appara?tre à cause de ce PCB.Voici les fonctionnalités de ce PCB :A1 : GND (alimentation)A2 : Moteur (sortie du Cytron MD13S avec coupure relais automatique)A3 : Moteur (sortie du Cytron MD13S avec coupure relais automatique)1 : Switch / button pour acitver l'autoguidage : gère les changements de résistances et les interrupteurs (pin A1 de l'arduino=code à modifier)2 : Détection du relevage (entrée 12v convertie en 5v pour être lu par l'arduino)3: capteur d'angle si capteur d'origine (A1 sur l'ADS115)4: capteur d'angle (A0 sur l'ADS115)5: +5V (capteur d'angle et switch)A4 : +12V (alimentation)Les pièces à acheter en plus de l'assemblage :Cytron MD13S (driver moteur) :CMPS14 ou BNO085 adafruitConnecteur 9w4 à souder sur le PCB : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33054414672.htmlConnecteur 9w4 (prise) : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32989858819.htmlCapot de connecteur 9w4 : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33062311139.htmlLes Options :Emplacement CMPS14 et BNO085 adafruitEmplacement Differential I2C Bus Extender (PCA9615)Emplacement module CAN bus MCP2515 TJA1050Vidéo de présentation :?

La pcb PIC18F4550 sirve para el facil aprendizaje de el microcontolador de esta placa, contiene leds, display, sensores, lcd para aprender a usar las entradas y salidas analogicas digitales y pwm del microcontrolador

Hey Everyone what's up, So here's something coolMade a Huge Retro Game Emulator system with a 7-inch display and custom PCB!I recently got a Raspberry Pi IPS Touch 7-inch Display from the PCBway gift shop and I thought"Hey, let's make a huge Handheld game system that works even better than my previous setup".In this post I will show you guys how I made a Huge Retro Game Console by using the 7 inch IPS Display, recalbox OS and a custom board from my previous Game Console built so without wasting any more time, let's get started.Materials Required7 inch IPS Display (which was provided by PCBWAY)Raspberry Pi Model 3B (any model can work, even zero but it's better if we use Model 3B+ or higher models with more RAM)Custom PCBIP5306 IC10uf 0805 CapacitorsUSB PortUSB Micro PortLi-ion Battery with CON2 Connector wireCON2 Connector10k 0603 Resistance2R 0805 ResistanceVertical Push ButtonRegular PushbuttonsRPI GPIO Ribbon cableHDMI Cable (small length cable)USB Cable5V 2A ChargerKeyboard3D Printed parts for Display's FrameProloguea few months ago, I made this PALPi setup which was a Rpi Zero-based Retro game emulator which uses Recalbox OS as an emulation system.It was a great project but it had soo many flaws, It uses a Composite PAL display which was small and not exactly great.Also, it had no sound but the main problem was that it wasn't very powerful as it uses an RPI Zero and sometimes the game freezes or setup turns itself OFF.I tried adding some cooling setup and even overclocking the RPI Zero but the freezing problem was still there so I removed the RPI zero from the equation entirely.For Preparing the V2 of the PALPi project, I got myself a huge 7 inch IPS display that uses a much better video output method, the mighty HDMI.Also, I used the same setup for this project from the previous one.This Board is based around IP5306 which is a power management IC that boosts a 3.7V Li-ion cell to 5V 2A for Raspberry Pi and Display to work.However this PCB was designed for the BOX shaped game controller project and the one I'm making right now is more like a console so for now I will be using this board but in the next iteration, I will be making a custom board shaped like a console D PADs and ABXY Pads.About the DisplayDisplay size: 7 inchResolution: 1024*600pxPrinciple: touch controlInterface: USB/HDMI/ power interfaceSuitable for: Raspberry Pi/NVIDIA /WindowsWeight: close 265gSupport: Raspberry Pi, NVIDIA, Ubuntu mirror, computer secondary screenThe unboxing of this display was also pretty straightforward, it comes in a decent cardboard box with a bunch of stuff along with it like a stand, HDMI to Micro HDMI cable.Display 3D Printed frameNow before doing anything, this display is not exactly robust so I first modeled its body in Fusion360 and then 3D Printed all the parts on my ender 3 with white PLA.Then I assembled the whole display and then added Raspberry Pi Model 3B+ on the backside of the display with given mounting holes.I had to enlarge the holes on raspberry pi from 2.5mm to 4mm.After assembly, we now have a cool-looking RPI setup with a proper robust body.As for Display wiring, I connected the HDMI out of Rpi to the HDMI port of the display with a small HDMI cable that came along with the display.now let's move on to the next crucial step which is "How to power this setup"Powering this setupNow to power this display, we have two options here, to use a 5V Charger as a power source or use a dedicated Battery source.To power RPI, I used a 5V wall adaptor and for display, I used a powerbank setup.this method does work but the issue with this setup is the portability problem.this setup is powered by a wall adaptor which is not at all portable.RECALBOXAs for the Game Console OS, I am using RecalBox OS here.Why Recalbox OS, why not Retro Pi or other OS?well, the answer here is simple, recalbox is an easy-to-use OS that comes with a lot of Free games pre-installed.Also, it's small and can run on low spec raspberry pi systems.like in my case, I'm using a Rpi Model 3B+ which has 1GB ram.it's not exactly the beast but it can handle a few retro games without breaking a sweat. probably.Installing it is also very easyDownload the Raspberry Pi imager.Select the right OS for your device, which would be RecalBoxselect your system which is Rpi Model 3BRaspberry pi imager will do your work of downloading and installing the RecalBox on the memory card.After installing the RecalBox os, you need to plug your Raspberry pi setup with a Keyboard.After booting the whole setup, our RecalBox works like a normal emulator.with the keyboard, we can play a bunch of games like I'm playing this old retro game called URANUS ZERO which is running on GBA or we can run DOOM on this device which is also awesome.Portable SetupUsing a 5V charger is good but what if I want to make a handheld game console setup with this display.I have already prepared a similar board for my previous game console project that utilizes a power management IC which is this IP5306 to step up the Lithium-ion battery voltage from 3.7V to 5V 2A.It also contains the switches for the controller part.Here's the schematic-https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/PALPi_Retro_Game_Console.htmlCheck out the previous post for more details but basically, I first prepared a breadboard edition and after finalizing it and testing it thoroughly, I prepared this PCB and sent it to PCBWay for samples.Getting PCBs from PCBWayI uploaded its Gerber data to PCBWay's PCB Quote Page and ordered 5 PCBs in the Black solder mask.I received These PCBs in a week which was fast and I have to say, PCBs that I received was great as expected!Buying display from PCBWay GiftshopAlso, I purchase the display for this project from PCBway's gift shop.https://www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/Raspberry_Pi_HD_Touch_7_inch_Display.htmlIt's a nice marketplace from where we can get a bunch of stuff with beans. Beans are kinda like reward points that are earned by ordering PCBs from PCBway or by posting projects in the PCBWAY community.Check out PCBWAY's giftshop for getting cool stuff for a very less price.PCB AssemblyThe Assembly process of this includes mainly three stepssolder paste dispensing processpick & place processhotplate reflowAdding THT componentsIn the end, this was the result.We plug in the battery and measure the voltage across the battery which is around 3.9V and on the output side, voltage is 5V which is suitable for running both raspberry pi and display.oh also, I've added this USB cable to 5V and GND so I could plug this in display and power it. the raspberry pi will get powered by the GPIO headers directly so we dont have to use its onboard USB port.I plug in the header pins of the custom Circuit with Gpio pins of Rpi with a ribbon cable. this setup is temporary as I will be making a proper Gameboy layout PCB later for the next version.here's how this setup would look for now. it's very makeshift and yes it's not proper or portable at all as it still has so much stuff just hanging around.This setup is just for proving a concept, in the next version I will make three boards, one for the battery and power management, and two for switches.Anyways, let's move on to the next step which is to enable the Game controller Via the GPIO option in the recalbox config file.Editing Part of Config fileOpen Win SCP on your computer, enter the raspberry pi IP Address on it, the user name will be root, and the password for the pi is recalboxroot.go to recalbox>share>system>recalbox.confFor Enabling GPIO Buttons, we only need to change two things in the below section.set controller.gpio.enabled = 1 (It was 0 before)and change controller.gpio.args.map=1, 2 to controller.gpio.args.map=1 (2 is second player controlls)Just change your default setting according to mine, then reboot the whole setup, and BANG, our Recalbox setup will work with buttons.Also, this is the GPIO Map for the buttons. The switch connects each GPIO with GND and that's how the RPI registers the button Tap.GamesRecalbox has so many inbuilt games from many different game stations.My favorite from these inbuilt games is the original DOOM which is a fun game to play.Also, this is an Opensource retro game emulator, which means we can add any old game from any game system and run them on this setup!we first need to download the custom ROM of any game you want to play on this game console. For example, I downloaded pokemon emerald. then we first need to connect the Recalbox to our WIFI router.go to this menu recalbox>share>rom, it contains all the ROM Folder, I wanted to add pokemon Emeral in it which runs on Gameboy advance so I had to copy-paste its ROM file in the GBA folder.now reboot your raspberry pi setup and open the GBA Emulator menu, and you will see the newly added game.Adding BT Speaker for soundAlso, this setup does support audio functionality but I haven't enabled it or added any amplifier setup for the external speaker.Good thing is, we are using a Rpi 3+ which comes with BT so we can pair any external speaker to this setup.Go to Setting menu > Bt controller and add a new Bt device.pair it and the Bt system will get active.I added my one of my recent project with this system which was this Jack O Speaker project- check out more about it from here-Conclusion and new designThis setup works pretty well but I need to change a few things in it which includes a better boost converter module, this setup has IP5306 which provides constant 5V 2A as an output but this setup requires more than 2A.Also, the GPIO button PCB needs to be redesigned, which I will do in the next version.this is it for today guys, Thanks PCBWay for supporting this project, check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service for less cost.And I'll be back with Part 2 of this post soon!Peace out

About the ET-AD01:Check the ET-AD01 blog post here: https://espthings.io/ad01About us:For a number of years, we, Michel and Paul, have been interested in the fascinating world of home automation. Where in the past the software was very much connected to the hardware you bought, nowadays there are a number of very nice open-source home automation software packages available.The software we both like the most is ‘Home Assistant’. It’s great software with support for a lot of types of sensors and devices. The best thing is that it supports homemade hardware sensors and devices! We noticed that a lot of people like to make hardware themselves. We also recognized a lack of well-designed circuits which can safely be built by people with not too much experience with electronics.Another thing we found many times searching around the web, is that published and shared designs were often PCB’s which were not designed to fit in a nice enclosure. Because of these issues we came up with the idea to start this website, espthings.io, where we will publish our own designs which can be easily built by everyone!For this project instructions and software configuration are freely available to ensure the project will be successful and works ‘as expected’. And lastly, we will always ensure that the PCB will fit in a nice enclosure, so that the finished project not only looks nice, but is also safe.Our goal is to ensure that everybody can build our projects. If you can’t wait to get started building, please read the ‘general information page’ first and also make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel so you won’t miss a thing!

The Clock is based on an old VFD display - ILC3-5/7. The combination of new technologies and vintage VFD-display makes this clock very fancy and useful for users. The clock allows a user to see not only the time and day of the week but also to understand the state of the environment: it is just necessary to look at the color of the backlight to find out the indoor air quality. Also, the user can see the pressure, temperature and humidity by sequentially pressing a button on the back side of device. The light sensor helps adjust brightness for comfortable usage. STM32F103C8T6 was chosen as the main microcontroller, CCS811 ic was chosen for air quality analyzing, BMP180 - for air pressure and HDC1080 - for humidity and temperature.The clock to date can show 7 levels of air quality: 1) WHITE - The air is absolutely clear2) BLUE - Very good3) DARCK_BLUE - Good4) GREEN - Normal5) YELLOW - Moderate6) PURPLE - Poor7) RED - Very poorThis is the first prototype. I have already finished developing PCB for version 2.

Character LCDs are a fantastic and cost-effective option when your project calls for a user-friendly output method. Besides being cheap and easy to use, these displays often offer enough usable screen real-estate for displaying simple status messages and interactive menu screens. However, the standard 16-pin interface can be quite a hassle to work with, and all the wires quickly clutter up your previously simple Arduino project. While there are some I2C character LCDs out in the wild, these models are often more expensive and sometimes difficult to work with. Therefore, I decided to build a simple-to-use alternative that allows you to control pretty much any standard 14 and 16-pin LCD display with only four wires.Note that I created this page to give my readers quick access to the PCB design. Please refer to my blog for the full project details, schematics, and software. Thank you! :)

It’s time to get ready for Halloween! We’re going to be doing a lot of DIY stuff this month, so stay tuned. Today we are going to show you how you can make your own LED pumpkin with just a few materials. The best part? You don’t need any fancy tools or skills. All the instructions are below–get started now!And believe it or not, these are actually PCBs. Yeah, it’s crazy but true! Let me show you what we will need and then give you the step-by-step process to make one yourself.Everyone knows how excited we get around here when it’s time to celebrate Halloween! Lots of DIY crafts and decorating are happening. If you want an easy way to make your house or yard festive, check out this tutorial on making your very own LED pumpkin. I think they’re so cute.DIY Halloween Pumpkin PCB Video TutorialIn this video, we’re going to be making some cool DIY stuff for Halloween, so get ready! Today we are going to be talking about how you can create your own LED pumpkin with just a few materials.I will be giving you complete instructions including the circuit diagram, PCB files if you want to make a PCB, and complete quotes to make one yourself.My name is Jithin and I am super excited to teach you everything you need to know about home automation, robotics, and other fun DIY projects using Arduino and raspberry pi. If you are a true fan of all these things make sure you check out our channel. You are gonna really love it. If you want more videos like this. Make sure you subscribe to our channel by hitting the subscribe button right here.Let’s get started.Designing the CircuitI used an Altium designer to draw the circuit and design the PCB. It is a powerful tool that can be used to design and create your own PCBs for your project as well as complex and multiplayer PCBs for industrial use. I will leave the link to the Altium trial version in the description. Also, there is a 30% discount if you purchase by clicking the link below. So make use of it.Here we are in Altium designer. Input voltage is connected to the Vin pin of Arduino. The ground pin is connected to the ground pin of Arduino.Here we connect four transistors to four PWM pins of the Arduino, which are D3, D5, D6, and D9. And 3 LEDs are connected at the emitter pin of each transistor. The collector of the transistors is connected to the input voltage. So basically these four transistors act as switches.The next step is where we deviate from all the previous videos. Here we will be designing a pumpkin-shaped PCB where we can securely solder the Arduino, the header pins, transistors, resistors as well as LEDs.Designing the PCB LayoutThe first thing we need is the shape of a pumpkin. For that, you can draw a pumpkin using these tools or you can import a pumpkin shape saved as a DXF file. For this project, I decided to go with the second option. I will leave the link to this DXF file in the description.To import the pumpkin go to files import and select DXF/DWG file. Browse the file and hit open. If you want you can resize the pumpkin to fit all the components. Once the pumpkin is in the right size, we can define the boat shape using this drawing. For that go to design, board shape, and define board shape from selected objects. And there we go. The board shape has been designed. Now you can arrange all the components inside this pumpkin and once you have arranged all the components you can route it.Getting the PCB DoneI ordered PCB from PCBWay. PCBWay is a PCB manufacturer specializing in PCB prototyping, low-volume production, and neat and tidy PCB assembly and you can create a variety of PCBs with different specifications. We will look into it in a second.To order our PCB from PCB way, go to the PCBWay website and fill in the basic board details in the instant order form. From there we will be directed to a form where we can provide more elaborate board details. Under advanced PCBs, you can customize your PCBs.Now update the board information in the PCB specification screen. I want to give the orange color to these PCBs, so I chose the orange color for the solder mask.In PCBWay, we can select a variety of color PCBs such as purple, black, orange, and even create transparent PCBs by selecting a transparent solder mask.Also, I chose a black silkscreen instead of white. Perfect. On the next screen, we should be able to upload the Gerber file and submit it for review. Once the review is completed, all that is left is to add to the cart, make payment, and wait for the PCBs to arrive.Once you get all the components and the PCB, it’s time for you to solder them together. Solder all the components onto the board and make sure to check the polarity of the components. After soldering the PCB looks like this.CodingAwesome right? Now all you have to do is program our Arduino. I will provide the link to the code in the description. Here, I will be using an Arduino Nano RP 2040.int led1 = 3; int led2 = 5; int led3 = 6; int led4 = 9; int brightness = 0; int fadeAmount = 10; void setup() { pinMode(led1, OUTPUT); pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); pinMode(led3, OUTPUT); } void loop() { analogWrite(led1, brightness); analogWrite(led2, brightness); analogWrite(led3, brightness); analogWrite(led4, brightness); brightness = brightness + fadeAmount; if (brightness <= 0 || brightness >= 255) { fadeAmount = -fadeAmount; } delay(20); } Get Ready for Halloween 2021So here we go, guys. Spooky pumpkin PCBs. We hope you’ve enjoyed our LED pumpkin project and will join us next week for more of the same. In that post, we’ll show you how to make your own light-up ghost! Stay tuned for more Halloween fun times, and in the meantime get ready with some DIY projects like this one. Happy Haunting!