Radio Controlled/Wireless Coconut harvester is a very helpful machine to harvest a lot of coconut fruit without risking the health or lives of any harvester by climbing the coconut tree and harvest the coconut fruit. Wireless coconut harvester is Arduino based that will program using the Arduino Ide in C++ programming language.Wireless Coconut harvester is divided into 2 (two) parts: Transmitter and ReceiverTRANSMITTER BOARDThe transmitter board is powered by 2 (two) 3.7V Li-ion batteries (7.4V) and all of the Input devices are connected to this board,The board is shaped like a usual transmitter. The Nrf24l01 transceiver module connects to the receiver at the highest range of 1200 meters. The standard tall of the coconut tree in the Philippines are 50 to 60 feet (15 to 18 meters) Therefore the range of this transceiver module is quiet enough to transmit data from transmitter to receiver. The total consumption of the transmitter board is less than 1 watt.2 Joysticks - Robotic Arm1 Joystick - Turning Mechanism1 Joystick - Vertical MovementSpeed adjust (2 Pushbuttons) -Speed of motors in Vertical MovementPotentiometer - Servo (Up and down)Potentiometer - Servo (Left and Right)Components list:PCB WAY- Printed Circuit board X1Arduino Nano X1Nrf24l01+pla X 1Potentiometers X 2Pushbuttons X 6Joysticks X 4100uf/16V Capacitor X1470uf/16V Capacitor X1Toggle switch (mini) X110K ohms Resistors X62x 3.7V Li-ion battery holder X13.7V Li-ion battery X2RECEIVER BOARDThe receiver board is powered by a 19V power supply in the video but in the actual plan, it should be powered by a 32650 LIFEPO4A Battery 4s10p with BMS and an active balancer. Each battery has a 3.2V nominal voltage, To get 12V DC, I need to series a 4 pcs of 32650 battery, to double the current rating I parallel 10X of 4pcs series 32650 LIFEPO4A battery (4 series 10 parallel)The capacity of this battery is quietly high 12V 60AH (720W), therefore the coconut harvester can last up to 2 to 3 hours when all the loads are all running since the total computation of load are almost 300WH (25A) but in reality, when the coconut harvester machine are working not all the loads are running, therefore the consumption is less than 300 watts.The main brain of this board is the Arduino Mega microcontroller.The Nrf24l01 + PLA transceiver module connects to the receiver at the highest range of 1200 meters. The standard tall of the coconut tree in the Philippines are 50 to 60 feet (15 to 18 meters) Therefore the range of this transceiver module is quiet enough to transmit data from transmitter to receiver.To power up my 4 pcs Nema 17 Stepper motor, I'm using a boost converter (step-up) 300W by using this can I select the voltage much higher to lessen the ampere flowing to the wire and to the coil winding of the stepper motor. By supplying a higher voltage like 24V DC to 35V DC the stepper motor lessens the heat while operating. Stepper motors are faster to heat up when the voltage is quietly low because the ampere is getting higher that's why the winding inside of the stepper motor cannot handle it.To power the Arduino mega microcontroller, I connect an LM2596 buck converter (step down) to the output of the boost converter which is 24.5V DC to convert it to 5V DC. I decided to use this buck converter because of its high ampere rating (5A) therefore It can compensate for the power required by the Arduino mega as well as the 2pcs of Servo motor.The coconut harvester has different portions: Vertical movement, Turning mechanism, Robotic Arm, Saw blade cutter. Camera Positioning.Vertical Movement The vertical movement is responsible for the up and down movement of the machine to the coconut tree. The motor used is the TAKANAWA Dc gear motor. It can lift up 60Kg at 24V and the driver for the motor is a BTS760 motor driver.Turning MechanismThe turning mechanism is in charge of the 360 rotation of the coconut harvester machine, for it to be flexible in any position to easily harvest a coconut fruit. The motor used is the TAKANAWA Dc gear motor.It can lift up 60Kg at 24V and the driver for the motor is the L298N motor driver.Robotic ArmThe robotic arm is consists of 4 joints; Base, Shoulder, Elbow, and Wrist, these 4 joints are controlled by each of the Nema 17 Stepper motors. The driver used for that is TB6600 and A4988 stepper driver. The main chassis of the robotic arm are plan to be made by 3D printing. The robotic arm is used to position the Sawblade cutter to cut accurately the stem of coconut fruit to harvest it.TB6600 STEPPER DRIVERYou can achieve the step of the NEMA 17 stepper motor by setting up the dip switch attach to the driver, to select FULL STEP and 1 AMPERE RATING you should ON the 1,2,4, and 6 dip switch.A4988 for NEMA 17 Stepper motor for wrist joint, since the wrist is the last joint it carries a lesser load compare to the other joints, therefore it requires a little bit power to operate it.Saw Blade cutterThe saw blade cutter is used for cutting the stem of the coconut fruit to harvest it, it is accompanied by a relay module to On and Off thiscutter.Camera PositioningThe camera positioning is controlled by two Servo motors (MG960), each of the servo motors is responsible for the angle position it either Left or Right and Up and Down. It helps the harvester to have a clear vision despite being in a lower ground position with the help of a wireless camera attached to the robotic arm, camera capture/video output transmit to the mobile phone.Components/ Material list:PCB WAY- Printed Circuit board X1Arduino Mega X1Nrf24l01 X12 pin terminal block X84 pin terminal block X6Female and male headerA4988 stepper driver X11000uf/16V Capacitor X1470uf/35V Capacitor X1TB6600 stepper driver X3BTS760 motor driver X1L298N motor driver X1LM2596 Buck converter X1300W Boost Converter X1Load components:TAKANAWA DC gear motor X2Servo motor (MG966) X2555 Dc motor X1NEMA 17 Stepper Motor X4I developed the Fail safe system: If the short circuit or loss connection happened, the coconut harvester machine will automatically going down therefore, the machine will not be stuck to the tree. I planning to build the entire machine and test it on the Coconut field.Soon you will see it helping our coconut harvester, climbing at the tree, and harvest a lot of coconut trees.#Coconut harvester #Radio Control #Arduino #Nrf24L01 #Robotic theme

PRESENTATIONI'm Tommaso, I'm 15 years old and i'm from Italy. I attend the second year of the high school I.T.I. OMAR in Novara (Piedmont)THE IDEAThe idea of my project: "Led Direction Indicator for electric scooter" was born because using the scooter I realized that it was necessary to signal the turn left or right. However, I found that it was very difficult to signal the turn with the arm due to the small handlebar on the scooter which made riding unstable. So I thought of a way to signal the turning point and I had the idea to build the direction arrows. At first I was undecided where to place them. My ideas were to place them on the helmet, or make a jacket and finally I decided to mount behind the rear wheel fender, where there were already two holes to screw this little piece of plastic.DESIGN AND USE OF COMPONENTSIn my project I used an Arduino Pro Mini 5V 16MHz. I chose this type of Arduino because it is very small, perfect for this project. I also decided to use an already assembled Arduino board for easier component availability.For the representation of the two arrows I used 28 LEDs, the first prototypeis composed of 5mm 3v LEDs, each connected to a digital pin of the Arduino, with the exception of the 14 LEDs that make up the arrow heads. They are all connected in parallel with each other to the respective pin 2 and pin 13 of the Arduino. Instead the new prototype built on PCB also uses 28 LEDs, but they are orange and SMD, the model is 3528. I also inserted a Buzzer inside the circuit on pin A1 to understand when the arrow is on.POWERIn the first prototype I used an external circuit to charge the battery, the TP4056 with micro-usb connector without protection circuit. Instead in the new pcb I decided to insert a TP4056 charger with Usb-C and also with the protection circuit.I power the circuit with a 500mAh 3.7V Li-Po battery.DIAGRAM DESIGNFor the drawing of the scheme I used easyeda.com. First I inserted the Arduino Pro Mini, then 28 orange 3528 LEDs. I connected the common ground of the LEDs with the ground of the Arduino. Then I connected the positive pin of each LED to each digital pin of the Arduino, with the exception of 2 pairs of 7 LEDs, connected in parallel to the first and last digital pin, used for the tip of the arrow. Then I inserted an 82db analog buzzer, connecting it to the Arduino's A1 analog pin. Between pin A0 and ground I connected a 2k resistor to read data 0 on the analog port. Finally I put a switch to turn the circuit on and off by interrupting the Vcc incoming from the charging circuit.I used two tactile buttons to light up the arrows. I connected pin 2 of the first button with pin 2 of the second button, and these are connected to Arduino pin A0. Then I connected pin 4 of the first with pin 4 of the second through a 2k resistor. Finally I connected the first resistor in series with the second, then connecting it to ground. In this way on the analog pin we will have two different values that we will use to activate the right and left arrows.To power the circuit I used a 500mAh Li-Po battery. To recharge the battery, I inserted the TP4056 charging circuit on the pcb. I also plugged in a USB-C connector for charging.PCB DESIGNFor the arrangement of the components on the PCB I used easyeda.comIn the first prototype I used 5mm LEDs inserted on a 3d printed mask, instead in the new circuit I decided to solder smd LEDs directly on the pcb, giving the circuit the shape of two opposite arrows.On the TOP side of the PCB I only inserted the smd leds. while on the BOTTOM side of the pcb I have inserted all the components necessary for the functioning of the circuit.SKETCHFor writing the Sketch I used the Arduino IDE programming software, with C ++ programming language.int DXState = LOW; //Stores the status of the LED (on or off) int SXState = LOW; //Stores the status of the LED (on or off)? bool flag; // Memorize button press and refractory fine changes to next loop turn (avoid multiple readings) int buzzer = A1; void setup() { pinMode(13, OUTPUT); // pin declaration pinMode(12, OUTPUT); pinMode(11, OUTPUT); pinMode(10, OUTPUT); pinMode(9, OUTPUT); pinMode(8, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(buzzer, OUTPUT); flag=true; // set Flag as true } void loop() { if ((DXState=LOW)&&(SXState=LOW)){ //If all state = low light on the analogWrite(7, 50); } int v = analogRead(A0); // read the value from analog pin A0 (values depend on the resistors connected to the switches) if ( (v>=620 && v<=720 && (flag == true)) ) { // if v value is included from 620 to 720, recognizes right button press DXState = !DXState; // Reverses the state (from ON to OFF, or from OFF to ON) SXState=LOW; // Switch-off left arrow flag=false; // flag=false to avoid multiple activation (change of state) when switch is pressed for a long time } else if ( (v>=450 && v<=550 &&(flag == true)) ) { // if v value included from 450 to 550, recognizes left button press SXState = !SXState; // Reverses the state (from ON to OFF, or from OFF to ON) DXState=LOW; // Switch-off rigth arrow flag=false; // flag=false to avoid multiple activation }else if ( (v>=0 && v<=10 &&(flag == false)) ) { // If no switch is pressed flag=true; // it returns the flag = true otherwise if you press at length it still performs the inversion SXState =! SXState or DXState =! DXState } delay(20); // time to set the variable if (DXState == HIGH) { // IF DXstate=true play the right arrow animation for(int x = 12; x >= 2; x--) { // start animation digitalWrite(x, HIGH); int v = analogRead(A0); // during the animation read analog switch to control if a switch is pressed if ( (v>=620 && v<=720 && (flag == true)) ) { // if v value included from 450 to 550, recognizes right button press flag = false; // prevent it from repeating DXState = !DXState; // Reverses the state (ON to OFF, OFF to ON) SXState=LOW; // TURN OFF LEFT } else if ( (v>=450 && v<=550 && (flag= true)) ) { // ("LEFT"); if i press left arrow flag = false; // prevent it from repeating DXState = LOW; SXState=HIGH; } delay(30); //pause } for(int x = 13; x >= 2; x--) { //IF SXstate=true play the Left arrow animation digitalWrite(x, LOW); int v = analogRead(A0); if ( (v>=620 && v<=720 && (flag == true)) ) { flag = false; // prevent it from repeating DXState = !DXState; // Reverses the state (ON to OFF, OFF to ON) SXState=LOW; } else if ( (v>=450 && v<=550 && (flag=true)) ) { // ("LEFT"); if i press left arrow DXState = LOW; SXState=HIGH; flag = false; // prevent it from repeating } delay(30); } tone(buzzer, 800); // buzzer sound delay(200); noTone(buzzer); delay(100); } if (SXState == HIGH) { //IF SXstate=true play the Left arrow animation for(int x = 3; x <= 13; x++) { digitalWrite(x, HIGH); int v = analogRead(A0); if ( (v>=450 && v<=550 && (flag == true)) ) { flag = false; // prevent it from repeating SXState = !SXState; // Reverses the state (ON to OFF, OFF to ON) DXState=LOW; } else if ( (v>=620 && v<=720 && (flag=true)) ) { flag = false; // prevent it from repeating i DXState = HIGH; SXState=LOW; } delay(30); } for(int x = 3; x <= 13; x++) { digitalWrite(x, LOW); int v = analogRead(A0); if ( (v>=450 && v<=550 && (flag=true)) ) { flag = false; // prevent it from repeating SXState = !SXState; // Reverses the state (ON to OFF, OFF to ON) DXState=LOW; } else if ( (v>=620 && v<=720 && (flag=true)) ) { flag = false; // prevent it from repeating SXState=LOW; DXState=HIGH; } delay(30); } tone(buzzer, 1000); // buzzer sound delay(100); noTone(buzzer); delay(50); tone(buzzer, 500); delay(100); noTone(buzzer); delay(25); } } 3D DESIGNFor the box that contains the circuit I used the 3D design program "Fusion 360"In the first prototype I created a rear box that screws onto the fender of the scooter. Inside the box is contained the Arduino Pro Mini, the buzzer, the battery with the charging circuit. In the front part I created a mask with 28 5mm holes to insert the red LEDs. They are connected with cables to the respective pins of the arduino board.This is the support to fix the box to the scooter.For the 3d design of the control panel for the lights, I removed the protection on the scooter and I redesigned it by inserting two buttons with the resistors.COSTFor the realization of this project I spent:€ 1 for the 28 leds€ 2.50 for the Arduino Pro Mini 5v 16Mhz€ 0.50 for the TP4056 charging circuit€ 2 for the 3.7v 500mAh battery€ 1 for buttons / switches and resistors and buzzers€ 4 for the 3D PETG filament€ 0.10 for screws and boltsFor a total of about: 11 €VIDEOCONCLUSIONSIn conclusion, I am very satisfied with the final result of my directional arrows for electric scooter (also for bicycle). On the internet I could not find any products to put on my scooter, so I decided to create them as I preferred. I hope you also appreciate my idea and in the cable you would like to replicate it, do not hesitate to contact me.