This is my Arduino Nano 4x 18650 Smart Charger / Discharger Open Source Project. I wanted to make a smart Arduino powered charger, discharger battery tester that could have a barcode scanner that scanned barcodes on batteries and input all the data into an Online Database Portal. This would allow me to correctly sort and analyze trends in all my reclaimed lithium batteries.Bill of materials:Component Quantity AliExpress Link eBay LinkArduino Nano 3.0 ATmega328P 1 AliExpress eBayESP8266 Arduino Adaptor 1 AliExpress eBayESP8266 ESP-01 1 AliExpress eBayLCD 1602 16x2 Serial 1 AliExpress eBayBattery Holder 4 x 18650 1 AliExpress eBayTP5100 Module 4 AliExpress eBayCD74HC4067 Module 1 AliExpress eBay74HC595N DIP16 1 AliExpress eBayDIP16 Socket 1 AliExpress eBayTemp Sensor DS18B20 5 AliExpress eBayTactile Switch 6MM 1 AliExpress eBayConnector KF301-2P 5.08mm 4 AliExpress eBayDC Jack 5.5 x 2.1mm 1 AliExpress eBayResistor Carbon Film 3.3ohm 5W 4 AliExpress eBayConical Rubber Feet 14x8mm (non 3D print case) 8 AliExpress eBayInsulating Washers 3x7x0.8mm 16 AliExpress eBayM3 x 12mm Socket Screw 20 AliExpress eBayM3 304 Stainless Steel 304 Hex Nuts 4 AliExpress eBayM3 Standoff 18mm Brass F-F 4 AliExpress eBayM3 Standoff 35mm brass F-F (non 3D print case) 4 AliExpress eBayHeader Female 2.54mm 1x4 1 AliExpress eBayHeaders Male 2.54mm 1x40 Pin 1 AliExpress eBayHeader Female Right Angle 2.54mm 1x4 1 AliExpress eBayUSB to ESP8266 ESP-01 Programmer 1 AliExpress eBayFan 80MM x 80MM x 15MM 12V 1 AliExpress eBayBD139 NPN Transistor 1 AliExpress eBay100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm 1 AliExpress eBayJST 2.0 PH 2pin M-F 1 AliExpress eBay5V Active Buzzer 1 AliExpress eBaySMD (either SMD or THT only you can't use both)Component Quantity AliExpress Link eBay Link10k – 1/8w Resistor SMD 0603 7 AliExpress eBay4.7k – 1/8w Resistor SMD 0603 1 AliExpress eBay1k – 1/8w Resistor SMD 0603 8 AliExpress eBayN-Channel Mosfet IRLML2502TRPBF 8 AliExpress eBayP-Channel Mosfet AO3407 SOT-23 4 AliExpress eBayNPN Transistor SOT23 BC847 4 AliExpress eBayDiode 1N4148 0603 2 AliExpress eBayTHT (either SMD or THT only you can't use both)Component Quantity AliExpress Link eBay Link10k – 1/4w Resistor THT 7 AliExpress eBay4.7k – 1/4w Resistor THT 1 AliExpress eBay1k – 1/4w Resistor THT 8 AliExpress eBayP-Channel MOSFET FQP27P06 TO-220 4 AliExpress eBayN-Channel MOSFET IRLZ44N TO-220 8 AliExpress eBayNPN Transistor BC547 TO-92 4 AliExpress eBayDiode IN4007 2 AliExpress eBayToolsComponent AliExpress Link eBay LinkSolder Wire 60/40 0.7mm AliExpress eBayDiagonal Pliers AliExpress eBayA3 PVC Cutting Mat AliExpress eBayYouyue 8586 SMD Soldering Rework Station AliExpress eBayUNI-T UT39A Digital Multimeter AliExpress eBayWire Strippers AliExpress eBayBarcode Scanner AliExpress eBayBarcode Printer AliExpress eBayBarcode Labels 30mm x 20mm x700 AliExpress eBayMECHANIC Solder Paste AliExpress eBayAnti-Static Tweezers AliExpress eBayThird Hand Soldering Stand AliExpress eBayAMTECH NC-559-ASM No-Clean Solder Flux AliExpress eBaySolder Wick AliExpress eBayPrecision Magnetic Screwdriver Set AliExpress eBayBattery Portal: http://portal.vortexit.co.nz/Parts List: http://www.vortexit.co.nz/parts-list-nano-4x/Schematic: https://easyeda.com/brettwatty/arduino-nano-4x-charger-discharger-v1-11Forum: https://secondlifestorage.com/t-Brett-s-Arduino-8x-Smart-Charger-DischargerSource Code: https://github.com/brettwatty/arduino-nano-4x-charger-dischargerCheckout my database stats page of all currently processed batteries: http://www.vortexit.co.nz/batteries-recycled/youTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brettwatty101/Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Nano-4x-18650-Smart-Charger-Discharger/Thingiverse STL Enclosure: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3502094Donate: http://www.vortexit.co.nz/donate/https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Nano-4x-18650-Smart-Charger-Discharger/https://ebay.to/2w7ejZD

Otto is truly Opensource; it means the hardware is easily discerned so that others can make it, Arduino compatible, 3D printable and customizable, the perfect opportunity to build and have your very first robot, learn robotics and have fun, you will learn the logical connection between code and action, and by assembling it, you will understand how its components and electronics work. Visit www.ottodiy.com for more detailed info.

This Small PCB can be used everywhere.U can control your T12 iron , u can control your Power supply , U can control your LED .Finally U can control everything from 0-36 VDC using Arduino PWM .It is the correct MOSFET Transistor Control Circuit for high voltage .To run the module you need :1.Arduino2.12v for mosfet driver3.Load

This is a cute little keypad I designed to showcase how to integrate an ATMega32u4 directly onto your keyboard PCB. It is compatible with Cherry, Alps, and Chocc style keys and has per-key backlighting with SK6812 mini-e LEDs. It also has some 3535 SK6812 on the back to give a nice backlight when used with a clear case. Watch the video and consult the linked eagle files for more info:The parts I used:Switches: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ALHz1fArduino Pro Micro (desolder the microcontroller due to chip shortage): https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9wc5dPDiodes: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A20xL3SK6812 mini-e LEDs: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9IoeIzWS6812 3535 LEDs: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AUtpzBUSB-C Port: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9vWz2h

DESCRIPTIONPCB version of my famous Arduinoflake.LEARN / TOPIC / BUILD INSTRUCTIONShttps://www.instructables.com/id/Arduinoflake/

Discrete 7-segment LED from 32 3mm LED's, with a serial interface for your arduino. Now <100mm wide!See github page https://github.com/prosper00/Circuits/tree/master/7segment for latest updatesArduino example:#define latch D6 #define clk D7 #define dat D8 uint8_t digits[16] = {0x3f,0x06,0x5b,0x4f,0x66,0x6d,0x7d,0x07,0x7f,0x6f,0x77,0x7c,0x39,0x5e,0x79,0x71}; // '.' == digit[n] + 0x80 uint8_t segs[7] = {0x10,0x20,0x1,0x2,0x4,0x8,0x40}; // clockwise, starting with the lowerl eft uint8_t rsegs[7] = {0x4,0x2,0x1,0x20,0x19,0x8,0x40}; // anticlockwise, starting with the lower right void setup() { pinMode(latch, OUTPUT); pinMode(clk, OUTPUT); pinMode(dat, OUTPUT); } void loop() { for(uint8_t i=0; i<10; i++) { for(int j=0; j<6; j++) { digitalWrite(latch, LOW); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, segs[j]); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, digits[9-i]); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, digits[i]); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, rsegs[j]); digitalWrite(latch, HIGH); delay(3); digitalWrite(latch, LOW); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, 0x0); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, digits[9-i]); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, digits[i]); shiftOut(dat, clk, LSBFIRST, 0x0); digitalWrite(latch, HIGH); delay(37); } } }

This LED board can be used with Arduino board and for any school projects. The students enjoy to start their project works using this LED board.

This circuit using Arduino

A ADD-ON board for a prebuild ESP32 relais board to control ws28xx leds and the power supplyFeaturesWS2812FX library integrated for over 100 special effectsFastLED noise effects and 50 palettesModern UI with color, effect and segment controlsSegments to set different effects and colors to parts of the LEDsSettings page - configuration over networkAccess Point and station mode - automatic failsafe APUp to 8 (6 with 2 resistor options) LED outputs per instancevirtual channels via DDP to other wled controllers (req at least Wled V 0.13.0.b6) https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases/tag/v0.13.0-b6Support for RGBW stripsUp to 250 user presets to save and load colors/effects easily, supports cycling through them.Presets can be used to automatically execute API callsNightlight function (gradually dims down)Full OTA software updatability (HTTP + ArduinoOTA), password protectableConfigurable analog clock (Cronixie, 7-segment and EleksTube IPS clock support via usermods)Configurable Auto Brightness limit for safer operationFilesystem-based config for easier backup of presets and settingsPowered by ~110v / ~230v ac !! (so be aware for high voltage, unplug power when working on it!!)Supported light control interfacesWLED app for Android, iOS and WindowsJSON and HTTP request APIsMQTTBlynk IoTE1.31, Art-Net, DDP and TPM2.netdiyHue (Wled is supported by diyHue, including Hue Sync Entertainment under udp. Thanks to Gregory Mallios)HyperionUDP realtimeAlexa voice control (including dimming and color)Sync to Philips hue lightsAdalight (PC ambilight via serial) and TPM2Sync color of multiple WLED devices (UDP notifier)Infrared remotes (24-key RGB, receiver required)Simple timers/schedules (time from NTP, timezones/DST supported)

I'm working on a series of animated objects for a children's play and decided to build a Zoetrope, to bring some magic to a very emotional moment in the play. I had already made a praxinoscope, using a pizza box and some acrylic mirrors. And that helped me to be a little more aware about the huge work with animation. It was very interesting to realize that at each step of this process it is as if we were going back a few years in time. Although I didn't list them as important in the project's bill of materials, it's worth mentioning that I used several free software and online platforms for my tasks.From Youtube to CardboardFor the show, it was necessary to find a way to remove the characters from the paper disc and put them on their feet, as if they were other actors in the play. I didn't know if this would work, but I had a hunch it would. Before starting the hard work of frame-by-frame animation, I did some research on the internet to find out the technical feasibility of the project.Adafruit has this example: https://learn.adafruit.com/strobe-zoetrope/build-the-zoetropeBut I found many others, including this one: https://vimeo.com/168428865https://forum.arduino.cc/t/adustable-zoetrope-strobe/102374https://programminginarduino.wordpress.com/2016/03/05/project-11/https://hackaday.io/project/161254-zoetropehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kv-M7BIG5IBut the biggest job is precisely that of animation frame by frame. So I created a process to automate this task. First of all, I needed a black and white video with two characters dancing. I found a video of Fred Astaire and Eleanor Powell, dancing "Begin the begine". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZPndC-F5SEI used the youtube-dl software to download the video to my computer and perform the next steps. But you can also use online conversion tools like the ezgif.com platform. For my project I'll just make an animation with fifteen frames and the ideal is that the first and last frames are with very similar movements. You can choose any number of frames for your project, ranging from 12 to 30 frames per second.Using Shotcut, or any other video editor of your choice, select the starting and ending portion of your animation and export the resulting video at a frame rate of 15 frames per second (or the rate you want).Then use VLC Media player to save each frame separately.Finally, I treated each frame in isolation in GIMP, removing the background from the image and leaving the characters with the appearance of a black and white illustration. Also in this step, I created a copy of each frame keeping only the outline of the characters' silhouettes, to facilitate the laser cutting step.For the first prototype, I cut out each character on cardboard. But for the final project, I'm going to do everything in laser cutting and adhesive paper. The process should be much faster!Inkscape has a fantastic extension that generates the Zoetrope disk, with templates for the frames, included.From Cardboard to ArduinoThere's not much to say about this step, other than it's a lot of work! You must paste the characters one by one into the corresponding section of the disc. Originally I would put the characters on a conventional turntable, so I knew the dial rotated clockwise (thus the frame order must be reversed). But the direction of the disc can be changed later, on the Arduino.The basic functioning of the system is as follows: the disc with the characters has a small neodymium magnet glued to it. When the disc rotates, the hall effect sensor detects the magnet and records the time the rotation took to complete. It uses this value to calculate the strobe pulses that will happen on the Luxeon LED. A 10K fader allows you to adjust the speed to get the effect (I replaced the conventional fader with a multi-turn for a more accurate adjustment).I got this code, made by kellyegan: https://gist.github.com/kellyegan/759160b77aa87860dec1, but I have some issues with Stroboscopic effect. Probably by a poor reading of hall sensor. So, I adapt to take an average of 15 readings of hall sensor, find the correct timings of on and off for the strobe effect, and create a break routine when we turn off the system.// Zoetrope - Adapt. by Nicolau dos Brinquedos // of Kelly Egan's 3D Strobescopic Zoetrope (2014) // Including a better calculation for Strobe effect // Based in motor speed and rotation speed. // Take an average of speed measure. #define BUTTON_PIN 12 //Button to turn zoetrope on and off #define POT_PIN A0 //Potentiometer used to set speed of motor #define INDICATOR_PIN 13 //Indicator LED #define HALL_PIN 3 //Hall effect sensor to determine motor speed #define STROBE_PIN 6 //High-power LED used as strobe 6 #define MOTOR_PIN 5 //Motor control for spinning zoetrope #define DIRECTION 4 #define MOTOR_MIN 10 #define MOTOR_MAX 80 #define FRAME_FACTOR 2 #define NUM_READINGS 15 //Variables used in the interrupt function should be marked volatile volatile unsigned long rotationStartTime; volatile unsigned long rotationDuration; volatile unsigned long rotationReadings [NUM_READINGS]; volatile unsigned long rotations; int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading int total = 0; // the running total int average = 0; volatile boolean strobeState; int potValue; boolean buttonState, lastButtonState; //Button state and software debounce unsigned long lastDebounce; boolean zoetropeOn; unsigned long lastFrameTime; unsigned long frameDuration; unsigned long strobeTime; //The Rotations per second x number of frames of animation = Frequency of the strobe or camera fps float rpm; float rps; int numFrames = 15; void setup() { Serial.begin (115200); delay (5); pinMode(STROBE_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(DIRECTION, OUTPUT); pinMode(MOTOR_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(INDICATOR_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(HALL_PIN, INPUT); digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(MOTOR_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(DIRECTION, digitalRead(MOTOR_PIN)); // Motor Stopped attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(HALL_PIN), newRotation, RISING); //Interrupt 0 is on pin 3, Hall Effect sensor rotationStartTime = millis(); rotationDuration = 1000; // Atualiza com o sensor HALL for (int i = 0; i < NUM_READINGS; i++) { rotationReadings [i] = 0; // Clean my readings array } zoetropeOn = false; buttonState = false; lastButtonState = false; Serial.println ("Zoetrope Is ON"); } void loop() { buttonState = digitalRead( BUTTON_PIN ); if ( buttonState != lastButtonState ) { if ( buttonState == LOW ) zoetropeOn = !zoetropeOn; } lastButtonState = buttonState; total = total - rotationReadings[readIndex]; rotationReadings[readIndex] = rotationDuration; total = total + rotationReadings[readIndex]; readIndex = readIndex + 1; if (readIndex >= NUM_READINGS) { // ...wrap around to the beginning: readIndex = 0; } average = total / NUM_READINGS; // Find average value of rotationSpeed //Checks for divide by zero rpm = (rotationDuration > 0) ? (60000 / rotationDuration) : 0; if (rpm > 1428) { rpm = 1428; } frameDuration = average / numFrames; // Take an average of rotationDuration to find FrameDuration strobeTime = frameDuration / 15; // This number is the same number as my framenumber. // But still need more experimentation Serial.println (strobeTime); if ( zoetropeOn ) { potValue = map (analogRead(POT_PIN), 0, 1023, MOTOR_MIN, MOTOR_MAX); analogWrite( MOTOR_PIN, potValue ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, LOW); // Clockwise HIGH to CounterClock in my motor //If the time ellapsed since the last strobe is //greater than the frameduraciton turn on the strobe if ( micros() - lastFrameTime > frameDuration ) { lastFrameTime = micros(); digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, HIGH ); delay( strobeTime ); //In the original code, delay (1). But I can't get it work digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, LOW ); delay (14 * strobeTime); // Added by Nicolau dos Brinquedos } } else { //If zoetrope off turn off motor digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, LOW ); while (potValue > 0) { analogWrite( MOTOR_PIN, potValue ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, LOW); potValue --; delay(10); } digitalWrite( MOTOR_PIN, HIGH ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, HIGH); // added } } // Hall Effect Interupt function void newRotation() { delay(1); //Wait for first rotation before making measurement if (rotations > 0) { rotationDuration = millis() - rotationStartTime; } rotationStartTime = millis(); rotations++; } For the motor and led luxeon I used a L298 module. Initially I used an IRF540 module for the LEDs, but the circuit response is very slow and it was not possible to get the strobe effect.The result is this one: https://youtu.be/kDP2CZ1zXncAnd, the final version (lasercut the characters, and increased size) - https://youtu.be/cJvl9GdjOS8

https://educ8s.tv/arduino-pong-game/ has plans for a cute pong game based on the Arduino Uno and a small LCD display.Although it's easy enough to build up on a breadboard, it looks much nicer with a custom PCB.Only 4 parts (Arduino uno, two push buttons and LCD display) are needed, along with PCB and the header pins (which probably came with your Arduino).Enjoy!Gary (http://www.the-planet.org)

Hey guys and how you doing!So this is the EREN YEAGER PCB ART or a Blinky Board which is based around 555 Timer IC.On the TOP side, I've added a custom silkscreen layer that consists of a BMP image of EREN YEAGER Titan form.For those of you who have no idea who or what EREN YEAGER is, well let's just say he's one very disturbed lad from a fictional show called "AOT or Attack on titan"I made this setup as a soldering challenge kit, We solder all the SMD components with a soldering iron and the end result will be a complete Bi-Flasher working circuit which is themed after our beloved hero turned antagonist EREN YEAGER.In this post, I'm gonna show you guys how you can solder this kit in a few easy steps along with a few soldering tips and tricks.Material RequiredEren Yeager PCB555 timer IC10K ResistorCoin cell holderCR2032 Coin cell22uf CapacitorSlide SwitchRED 0805 LEDsBasic Idea and Design ProcessThe goal for making this Soldering Kit was to make an easy yet fun to assemble soldering kit that anyone can assemble and learn a few things about electronics in general.My whole approach here was minimalism, I could use a Microcontroller to drive the onboard LEDs but I choose the 555 Bi Flasher setup as it was proper old school electronics and requires few components.I first prepare the schematic for the project which was this-The main component here is the Mightly 555 timer ic which is set up in a Bi Flasher Mode. This means at the output Pin, two LEDs are connected in such a way that when a positive signal gets out of Pin 3 this will make LED 2 Glow and LED 1 will remain LOW, and when the positive signals don't get out of Pin 3 LED 2 will become LOW and LED1 will start glowing.Bi Flasher constantly turns Both LEDs ON and OFF by repetitive biasing of both LEDs through pin 3.The flashing rate can be controlled by changing the value of the capacitor connected between Pin 2 and GND. right now I'm using a 22uf 16V capacitor but if we use a 10uf capacitor, the flash rate will increase.EREN YEAGER SilkscreenAfter preparing the schematic, I move on to the PCB Making Part.The main aspect of this Board was the custom EREN YEAGER image, I first search around for a black and white image of a close-up shot of EREN YEAGER NEW FORM.To import it into my OrCad PCB Suite, I had to convert it from JPEG to BMP as my PCB SUITE only imports images from BMP format.I then imported the image in my PCB DESIGN and place all the components in the opposite layer which was the bottom layer.EREN YEAGER image will be on the TOP layer and all the components will be placed from the bottom layer.After placing everything and finalizing the board, I send its Gerber data to PCBWAY for samples.Getting PCBs from PCBWAYI used PCBWAY PCB Service for this project. I uploaded the Gerber file of this project on PCBWAY's quote page. For this PCB ART BOARD, I went with White Soldermask and Black silkscreen.After placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great, the silkscreen I used is completely random and asymmetrical so it's pretty hard to make but they did an awesome job of making this PCB with no error whatsoever.You guys can check out PCBWAY if you want Great PCB Service at an Affordable rate and low price.Soldering ProcessAfter Receiving the board, all that was left to do was the soldering process that includes a few steps.Now, this board contains SMD components and for soldering them, I prefer the Solder paste and Hotplate Reflow process but for this build, I will use a normal soldering iron.Because this is a soldering kit, most people will use a normal soldering iron, not some fancy method.#1 ADDING SOLDER TO ONE SIDE FIRSTFirst set up your soldering station with an Iron Tip Temp of 316°- 343°C.We start by adding solder to each component pad first, just on one side#2 ADDING IC & RESISTORSWe now add the timer IC in its place and all the 10K Resistors by picking them up with a tweezer and heating up the solder we added on one side of the boardthis will hold the component from one side, we then later add solder to the other side of the component#3 COIN CELL HOLDERNow we place the coin cell holder in its place by lifting it up with a tweezer and placing it on its assigned pad in right polarity, then heating the one side of its pad to solder it from one side. then we apply solder to its other pad.#4 ADDING LEDsNow we add LEDs in its place.Here's a little twist, I've placed a custom LED Pad that has a hole in the middle.We place LED Upside down and its glow will be visible from TOPSIDE.The soldering process for these LEDs is also the same but a little tricky, we place LEDs upside down in right polarity, then hold the LED with a tweezer and then add solder paste to one side. then after the LEDs are locked in their place, we add solder to another pad which permanently attaches the LED to the given Pad.#5 ADDING SLIDE SWITCHNow we add a slide switch from the BOTTOM side of the board, its pad will be soldered from the topside.#6 ADDING CAPACITORAt last, we add 22uf Capacitor to its place, now I've removed the general holes that are required for soldering THT Capacitor, instead, I've added pads.we add a capacitor to these pads from the BOTTOM SIDE of the board.This was the soldering process and the badge is completed.RESULTFor powering this badge, we have to add a CP2032 Lithium Coin cell in its holder and turn on the switch. Both LEDs will start flickering in a chasing sequence, the first led will glow and the second will stay low, then the second led will turn HIGH and the first led will turn LOW, and this process will get repeated over and over.I've made similar projects with this same circuit which are these-https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/c-3po-blinky-board-80662bhttps://www.hackster.io/418992/yet-another-badge-a-ghost-badge-made-from-555-timer-ic-92dfbfThis is it for today folks, Leave a comment if you need any help.Peace out and have a nice day!TATAKAE!

At some point on the internet I came across someone who had made a game like that, but unfortunately, I missed the bookmark. So I decided to make my version, basing myself a bit on what I remembered the little game I saw.The game consists of calibrating the three V.U.s using the three potentiometers. It sounds like a cinch, but with each round, the pots are drawn. So without always the blue potentiometer will move the V.U pointer. with the Blue Led. And yet, not always the pointer of the V.U. and the potentiometer move in the same direction. You have 15 seconds to find the calibration or the system restarts and replaces all the positions. There are 48 different possibilities!The LEDs are connected to the digital pins 6, 7 and 8 through resistors to limit the current (I used three of 220 Ohms).Then I connected the positive of the V.U.s in the outputs PWM 9, 10, and 11 the negative in GND.I also made another call in the U.S., this time to monitor their voltages: Pins 3, 4 and 5. This step was very important here and I could only solve with the help of this link here:https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/10041/can-i-connect-a-pwm-pin-on-one-arduino-to-an-analog-input-on-anotherThat way I can tell what voltage is being displayed in the V.U. , since the potentiometers will always change position and direction.Finally, I connected the potentiometers to the analog inputs A5, A6 and A7.I'm using pin A0 as the seed of my random numbers.Also, pins 12 and 13 like Buzzer and Relay./** App: THE CRAZY POTS Desenvolvido por: Djair Guilherme (Nicolau dos Brinquedos) Usando ARDUINO NANO Abril de 2018 +-----+ +------------| USB |------------+ | +-----+ | B5 | [ ]D13/SCK MISO/D12[ ] | B4 | [ ]3.3V MOSI/D11[ ]~| B3 | [ ]V.ref ___ SS/D10[ ]~| B2 C0 | [ ]A0 / N \ D9[ ]~| B1 C1 | [ ]A1 / A \ D8[ ] | B0 C2 | [ ]A2 \ N / D7[ ] | D7 C3 | [ ]A3 \_0_/ D6[ ]~| D6 C4 | [ ]A4/SDA D5[ ]~| D5 C5 | [ ]A5/SCL D4[ ] | D4 | [ ]A6 INT1/D3[ ]~| D3 | [ ]A7 INT0/D2[ ] | D2 | [ ]5V GND[ ] | C6 | [ ]RST RST[ ] | C6 | [ ]GND 5V MOSI GND TX1[ ] | D0 | [ ]Vin [ ] [ ] [ ] RX1[ ] | D1 | [ ] [ ] [ ] | | MISO SCK RST | | NANO-V3 | +-------------------------------+ http://busyducks.com/ascii-art-arduinos */ #define DEBUG // Led Pins #define blue 6 #define yellow 7 #define red 8 // Vu meters #define left 9 #define center 10 #define right 11 // Potentiometers #define bpot A7 #define ypot A6 #define rpot A5 // The readings of pins 3, 4 and 5 will detect correct number // Connected to Vu meters, convert PWM readings into Analog Reading #define read0 3 #define read1 4 #define read2 5 // Outputs #define buzzer 12 #define relay 13 // Time for clue #define timeclue 1000 //Winning Numbers 935 #define winner0 10 #define winner1 5 #define winner2 7 unsigned long ultimaRodada = 0; unsigned long tempoRodada = 15000; // Array tha contains pin numbers int led[3] = {blue, yellow, red}; // Blue, Yellow, Red int vu[3] = {left, center, right}; int pot[3] = {bpot, ypot, rpot}; int readings[3] = {read0, read1, read2}; int winner[3] = {winner0, winner1, winner2}; int pot0, pot1, pot2; int out0, out1, out2; const byte inactive [2] = {1, 2}; // To follow puzzle States enum PuzzleState {Initialising, Running, Solved}; PuzzleState puzzleState = Initialising; bool lastState = false; int sensorValue = 0; int outputValue = 0; void setup() { for (int i = 0; i < 3; i++) { pinMode(led[i], OUTPUT); pinMode(vu[i], OUTPUT); pinMode(readings[i], INPUT); } // Avoiding noises!!! for (int j = 0; j < 9; j++) { pinMode(inactive [j], INPUT_PULLUP); } pinMode (relay, OUTPUT); randomSeed (analogRead(0)); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.begin(9600); Serial.println(F("Starting Serial Communication... SETUP")); #endif digitalWrite (blue, LOW); digitalWrite (yellow, LOW); digitalWrite (red, LOW); puzzleState = Running; } void loop() { digitalWrite (relay, LOW); maxMinVu (0); delay (500); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); analogWrite (left, 255); delay(timeclue); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); analogWrite (center, 255); delay(timeclue); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); analogWrite (right, 255); delay(timeclue); maxMinVu(0); ultimaRodada = millis(); int choice = random (1, 48); // 48 probabilities! while ((millis() - ultimaRodada < tempoRodada)) { sorteio (choice); // reading VU values and Map it to numbers 0 to 10 ?int number0 = map (readPWM(read0), 0, 1023, 0, 10); int number1 = map (readPWM(read1), 0, 1023, 0, 10); int number2 = map (readPWM(read2), 0, 1023, 0, 10); //Detect if evaluated numbers are the winners!; if (evaluate (number2, number1, number0)) { onSolve(); delay(10000); } else if (!evaluate) { onUnsolve(); } } Serial.println ("Next round"); } // Here are the custom functions: void maxMinVu(int flag) { if (flag == 0) { setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); analogWrite (left, 0); analogWrite (center, 0); analogWrite (right, 0); } else if (flag == 1) { analogWrite (left, 255); analogWrite (center, 255); analogWrite (right, 255); } } void normal (int sense, int vumeter) { // Pot and VU at same directionint ?potentiometro = analogRead(sense); int saida = map (potentiometro, 1023, 0 , 0, 255); analogWrite (vumeter, saida); } void reverso (int sense, int vumeter) { // Pot and VU are reversedint ?potentiometro = analogRead(sense); int saida = map (potentiometro, 0, 1023 , 0, 255); analogWrite (vumeter, saida); } void setLed (int stateBlue, int stateYellow, int stateRed) { // Led is on if Pot and VU matches digitalWrite (blue, stateBlue); digitalWrite (yellow, stateYellow); digitalWrite (red, stateRed); } int readPWM(int digitalPin) { // Detect PWMint ?var = pulseIn (digitalPin, HIGH, 4200); if (var == 0 && digitalRead (digitalPin) == 1) { var = 2100; } var = map (var, 0 , 2100, 0, 1023); return var; } bool evaluate (int num0, int num1, int num2) { // Evaluate Results to detect Winner: #ifdef DEBUG Serial.print (num0); Serial.print (" "); Serial.print (num1); Serial.print (" "); Serial.println (num2); Serial.println ("-----"); #endif if (num0 == winner[0] && num1 == winner[1] && num2 == winner[2]) { return true; } else if (num0 != winner[0] || num1 != winner[1] || num2 != winner[2]) { return false; } } void onSolve() { // Aciona o relê se o quebra-cabe?a foi resolvido digitalWrite (relay, HIGH); #ifdef DEBUG Serial.println(F("Quebra Cabeca Resolvido!")); #endif// E toca cinco bipes!for (int i = 0; i < 5; i++) { tone (buzzer, 2500, 1000); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); delay(200); noTone(buzzer); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); delay(200); } puzzleState = Solved; } void onUnsolve() { #ifdef DEBUG//Serial.println(F("Quebra Cabeca Desmanchado!")); #endif puzzleState = Running; } void sorteio (int choice) { // Aqui s?o 48 possibilidades!!! ?switch (choice) {case 1: normal (bpot, left); normal (ypot, center); normal (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 2: normal (bpot, left); normal (ypot, right); normal (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 3: normal (bpot, right); normal (ypot, center); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 4: normal (bpot, right); normal (ypot, left); normal (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 5: normal (bpot, center); normal (ypot, left); normal (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 6: normal (bpot, center); normal (ypot, right); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 7: reverso (bpot, left); normal (ypot, center); normal (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 8: reverso (bpot, left); normal (ypot, right); normal (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 9: reverso (bpot, right); normal (ypot, center); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 10: reverso (bpot, right); normal (ypot, left); normal (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 11: reverso (bpot, center); normal (ypot, left); normal (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 12: reverso (bpot, center); normal (ypot, right); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 13: normal (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, center); normal (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 14: normal (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, right); normal (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 15: normal (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, center); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 16: normal (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, left); normal (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 17: normal (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, left); normal (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 18: normal (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, right); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 19: reverso (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, center); normal (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 20: reverso (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, right); normal (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 21: reverso (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, center); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 22: reverso (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, left); normal (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 23: reverso (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, left); normal (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 24: reverso (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, right); normal (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 25: normal (bpot, left); normal (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 26: normal (bpot, left); normal (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 27: normal (bpot, right); normal (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 28: normal (bpot, right); normal (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 29: normal (bpot, center); normal (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 30: normal (bpot, center); normal (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 31: reverso (bpot, left); normal (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 32: reverso (bpot, left); normal (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 33: reverso (bpot, right); normal (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 34: reverso (bpot, right); normal (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 35: reverso (bpot, center); normal (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 36: reverso (bpot, center); normal (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 37: normal (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 38: normal (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 39: normal (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 40: normal (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 41: normal (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 42: normal (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 43: reverso (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (HIGH, HIGH, HIGH); break; case 44: reverso (bpot, left); reverso (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (HIGH, LOW, LOW); break; case 45: reverso (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, center); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, HIGH, LOW); break; case 46: reverso (bpot, right); reverso (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, center); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; case 47: reverso (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, left); reverso (rpot, right); setLed (LOW, LOW, HIGH); break; case 48: reverso (bpot, center); reverso (ypot, right); reverso (rpot, left); setLed (LOW, LOW, LOW); break; } }

I created this little game as a hobby for my children during the Covid-19 quarantine. I had already seen some versions for two players on the Internet. But I wanted a version in which the player would challenge Arduino itself, because then I could turn the game into a puzzle for Escape Room.The game works like this: there are seven colors available and a code with four colors, without any of them being repeated. The player's goal is to find out what is the sequence of four colors in a maximum of sixteen attempts. When the player hits one of the colors, but misses the position, the computer lights up a red LED. When the color and position are correct, the computer lights up a green led. With these tips and some strategy, the player must discover the password.In my research, I found some versions of this game, but I decided to create one using the fewest possible Arduino pins, in order to create other puzzles on the same board.

In the video I show each procedure step by step

You will find all the details of the project in the video