Cmax Battery cells are great, but they are too small for traditional busbars so a PCB busbar simplifies the process of building a 14s1p 48v battery pack. Project requires 2 PCBs, the busbar pcb and the BMS pcb.Here is the list of parts you'll need to complete this project: (Hyperlinks)14x C-MAX Cells w spacers 1x Buss PCB1x BMS PCB2x 60A BMS 7x M4 terminals 7x Standoffs 7x M4 screws 28x M5 nuts 1x Pair XT904x IDC socket connectors 4x IDC connectors Assembly required.Complete assembled Kit Coming soonVideo

ESP8266 WIFI killer with download function, lithium battery charging, external antennahe WIFI killer based on ESP8266 uses an independent lithium battery for power supply, including a lithium battery charging module.

Adopt very easy to use TYPE-C interface.AMS1117-3.3v provides regulated power supply.CH340C downloads and burns the program through the serial port.Use two S8050 to realize automatic download reset. Add reset button and burn button.The LED display only uses the LED that comes with the wifi module to reduce the volume and save power.The WiFi antenna leaks out to enhance the signal quality.Two-way 3.3V and 5V power supply are used to facilitate the power supply problems of external sensors and other modules.

Addon board for Boatcontrol 32.The Boatcontrol 32 is a smart distribution panel and electrical system for on/off-grid and hybrid backup power systems that need to handle 12-24v DC 110-115v AC and 200-250V AC systems.A perfect companion to a SMA Sunny Island or Sunny Boy Storage, Fronius or other battery inverters.It's a one stop PCB that allows a Raspberry Pi (RPi) or Nvidia Jetson to control your entire electrical system while retaining full analog control from external switches and allowing manual override onboard in case of emergencies.This addon board adds 16 x 32A AC/DC relays.https://github.com/antevens/boatcontrol/tree/master/addon/NonLatchingNO30ABoatControlhttps://github.com/antevens/boatcontrol

The op amp IC is marked as SGM8551 in the schematic diagram, and it can be replaced by RS8551, GS8551, MCP6001, OPA336, etc.Function descriptionAdopt STM32 main control, with time display, voltage display, low voltage protection, welding nozzle management, temperature segment calibration, screen protection, temperature enhancement, automatic standby, automatic sleep, NTC temperature compensation, password protection, Chinese and English switching , Buzzer reminder and so on.

This small breakout board has been designed to make installing Atari VBXE easier (using DIN13 video output).Has pads on both sides of PCB so allows for some flexibility when installing.

So I was needed to control almost 200+ relays using one microcontroller and during research I found out that best way to do it is by using a GPIO Expander module but I wanted to have some simpler solution which should be both small and compact. Now if you worked with addressable RGB LEDs or neopixels you already know that we can control lots of such LEDs by just using one output pin. There is a chip inside each of the LEDs which can control 3 outputs, Red, Green and Blue LED in this case. It reads the data coming from the microcontroller, set it's outputs according to the given instructions and pass the rest of the code to the next IC. This way we can daisy chained as many of them as we want. I just wanted to impliment the same principle for any output devices in general, such as relays, to control even bigger loads.

This is a variable power supply board using LM317 voltage regulator. The voltage can be easily adjusted using the potentiometer with is unique compact design it fits anywhere and can be used with LI-PO batteries and to power arduino or some circuits. You may change the potenitometer to get voltages is different ranges i think a 5k potpin will be a sweet spot. So then what are you waiting for, download the gerber files for free, like the project, follow me on instagram(kushagramathur_tech) and order some great pcbs only for $5 for 10 pcs from PCBWay right away.

I'm building a Walkie-Talkie based around the ESP32. This PCB wires together all the required modules and adds an independent supply to the microphone boards so you minimise noise when WiFi is being used.You can use either an INMP-441 board or my microphone board (available from Tindie: https://www.tindie.com/products/21519/)I made up this PCB as the wires to connect all the modules were getting quite untidy and I wanted to build in the power supply filtering.You can access the schematic and PCB here: https://oshwlab.com/chris_9044/esp32-walkie-talkie

It seems all breadboards/protoboards are for narrow DIP IC's... with wider chips, you're left with just a couple connection points on each side. Bummer! So I made my own extra-wide version that will give you 3 on one side and 4 on the other! (Or for regular DIPs, you get 5 on each side!)

The original version of Malachite SDR is a four-layer circuit, changed to a double-layer board. The components are changed from 0402 to 0603 for easy soldering. LCD uses 50pin.

The ESP-12F module is the main control, based on the Blinker Internet of Things platform, to achieve computer remote controlThe mobile phone APP realizes the computer remote switch machine, remote restart, remote computer status queryEach pin status during ESP8266 power-on: To prevent the solid state relay from conducting during power-on, the control pinModified from GPIO14 and GPIO16 to GPIO4 and GPIO5

The small board UM-0516 mounts 16 LEDs which, through series resistors, connect to a 20-pin female IDC connector, ideal to be plugged into the corresponding male on a board to be tested.With just the two single-in-line resistors in series with the LEDs, the luminous intensity of the LEDs is established.Usually on this type of board I mount the single-in-line resistors not directly on the PCB, but on the female strip, in order to quickly change their value to adapt it to the different voltages in which I use the board (5V, 12V or 24V ).According to the polarity with which the LEDs are mounted and how the PWR jumper is positioned, it is decided whether to turn them on with a LOW or a HIGH.The 'PWR' jumper must be closed on GND to turn on the LEDs with PNP type outputs, or on 'GND' to turn on the LEDs with NPN type outputs.Respecting the indication of pin 1, the PCB must be carefully inserted between the two rows of pins of the FEMALE IDC connector, then the soldering must be carried out.With the exception of the IDC connector which must be mounted as indicated, all the other components can be mounted both on one side of the PCB and on the other.This could allow to adapt the display of the LEDs to the conditions in which the card is used.However, it must be said that the indications on the screen printing only satisfy the mounting on one of the two faces of the PCB.With screen printing we try to form groups of four / eight LEDs, for easy reading of binary or hexadecimal values, but also to be able to easily remember and write (in hexadecimal) a pattern even in cases where it is not a hexadecimal number , but only the pattern of an output card when debugging.The choice of LED color is free, but I suggest using LEDs of the same type if you want them to have the same light intensity.

IMPORTANT PLEASE READOrder .6mm or thinner for best fit. First, desolder the black plastic controller port from the controller pcb. Then measure out and solder in leds to the adapter pcb as well as resistors. Then remove the top tabs from the metal controller tabs so more light will shine through if you want. Then place the adapter pcb onto the black plastic controller port back facing you it should snap in. Then place both pieces into the gamecube controller pcb and make sure to get good flow of solder to all the pins I would put a cap leg into the power trace hole so good connection is made for the led pcb.

When developing electronic projects, the power supply is one of the most important elements of the entire project, and more often than not, a power supply with multiple output voltages is needed. This is because different sensors and other consumers require different input voltages and currents to operate effectively. In this case, the power supply is very important, which can provide several voltages. There are options where you can use external power supplies such as RPS (Regulated Power Supply) or AC adapters, but then you need more than one and the whole system becomes bulky.Therefore, we offer you the development of a universal power supply. To do this, we use the Arduino UNO module, which will have several output voltages: 3.3V, 5V and 12V.More about the power supply module Arduino UNO.https://tehnopage.ru/modul-pitaniya-arduino