This is a E.S.P32 based robot that I made which can not only be controlled over the internet but also can sense its surroundings for any obstacle that might get into it’s path.I have used Nema 17 stepper motors for precision controlling and DRV8825 Stepper drivers to drive the motors.The case and wheels are designed in fusion 360 and entirely made out of 3d printed parts.And I have designed a custom PCB to connect all the electronics.The bot has VL53L0X Time-of-Flight ranging sensor in four corners to get all directional coverage.

SaviourInspirationThe countless stories and movies like the Lord of the Flies, Robinson Crusoe, Titanic, Cast Away, Six Days Seven Nights, etc. where the protagonist gets stuck on an island, even though it sounds very adventurous, but nonetheless the dangerous probability of it happening in real to people still remains. The idea behind Saviour was to create a hack that allows people to travel to remote locations without having to worry about getting lost or getting stuck there.What it doesSaviour is an emergency tool that is very powerful, in times of real juncture. Saviour can do radio signalings like the popular SOS signal or any emergency signaling. If one gets stuck in a deserted area, say on an island or some mountain, where the Mobile gets useless, due to no network coverage, radios are still there, which can be a very effective way of communication in that scenario, and still, they are used all way. Saviour uses Morse Code signaling via a radio transmitter, also with a LED. It also has an OLED display, that can translate any sentence to its Morse Code, and display that code on the OLED simultaneously transmitting the code over the air, and also flashing it via a LED. It also has a buzzer to sound, how the Code will sound. Now, it also contains a GPS that can get your direct coordinates. Since GPS satellites revolve all around the world, they can connect and get your current location. So with that not only Savior can send the SOS signal using radio, but Saviour sends the location details i.e. the latitude and longitude of the signal's origin location using the GPS. This will make it a lot easier for the search party to find the lost individual thus speeding up the process of the rescue operation. This hack is not only a very important tool that will come in handy for people going on a vacation or traveling because of work purposes but it can also be used as an educational tool for learning Morse code since it has a Morse Code translator.How we built itSaviour has four main parts - one is the Morse Code translator, indicator, transmitter, and the GPS. Firstly we created a menu-driven Graphics Interface for choosing the mode, whether the Morse Code or the GPS. This is done by a potentiometer to scroll, and a button to select. The Morse code translator is built by parsing the String sentence character by character and creating its Morse equivalent. According to the supported Characters, the program translates it to a Morse String. To create a sentence, we reused the same button and the potentiometer. The potentiometer, scrolls through the characters, and the button increments the cursor. Next, the Indicator was built using a small Buzzer and a LED which can also be used for signaling, and it is still considered to be an effective way. The buzzer plays the Morse Code with a Farnsworth speed of 10 in sync with the LED flashes. After that, a simple single transistor FM transmitter was built using a coil, capacitor, and transistor. Its job is to transmit the Morse code over open Air. Last but not least, the life saviour, the GPS. As the name suggests, this part contains a GPS, through which the NMEA data is received as packets. Those get parsed and fetch the coordinates and finally get transmitted via the transmitter. Now all these interfaces are displayed over an OLED display, and all of them get controlled by the Arduino.Challenges we ran intoMaking the interface was a bit tricky. Stopping abnormal flow or increment of button pushes using flags. Getting ready with the GPS. Since the GPS works best over open air. Printing the translated Morse Code on the OLED was a bit tricky too.Accomplishments that we're proud ofWe were in a bit of a time crunch since a lot had to be done, but we decided to work on one aspect at a time and finish that first. We are really proud to have overcome all the challenges like making the interface, making the FM transmitter. Displaying the morse code and listening to the buzzer to beep in accordance was a very proud moment. Thus bringing a mere project idea into life and that too in very little time is what we are very happy about. Saviour is a hack that we are very proud of building this tool because it can really help people in times of emergency.What we learnedWe learned with help of simple components, such as the potentiometer and button we can create such a good graphical interface. We learned how to drive OLED displays. Learned about Morse Codes, speed. Learned a bit about GPS and the NMEA protocol.What's next for SaviourWe are thinking of adding a digital compass, and an altimeter by which it can be used as a very powerful and absolute emergency item, and a normal human must-have.CreditsTo Deblina Chattopadhyay(deblinachattopadhyay280500@gmail.com) for making this project together.

The PCB gerber submitted is a new design for the prototyped circuit we have made for a hackathon. Here is its description.## InspirationAs more and more people have been working from home, the problem of natural lighting has been growing. During the pandemic, we personally experienced this issue because we lived in rooms where sunlight was scarce. The constant intensity and hue ceiling light made motivation very dull.## What it doesWith our custom code, the kit fetches the time from an NTP server and drives an LED strip at the corresponding intensity and hue of light.## How we built itUsing an ESP32, we fetched GMT time from a NTP Server, adjusted GMT time to local time zone, converted current time into an LED intensity value. The LED intensity was driven by adjusting the PWM duty cycle on the MOSFET driver and we simulated the MOSFET to make sure it can switch up to 10kHz which is the max PWM frequency of the ESP32. ## Watch our Presentation and Demo!https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1mi4-n4dT8bwS4iG0mJ9_k5yZCrY3XL1ln9aOi6mdWBc/edit?usp=sharinghttps://youtu.be/3wxxrmfImcg

InspirationWhile studying photoresistors in our college and had an experiment where plotting the graph of resistance vs intensity of light falling on a photoresistor or LDR(light dependent resistor), we started thinking of this project, where we can turn on and off the street lights automatically. Simple yet powerful project.What it doesIt basically controls the switching of street lights automatically. After dusk, it switches on the street lights, and while dawn it turns it off automatically. Since every place does not incur exact same dawn and dusk behaviour, the sensitivity of the circuit can be manually changed as required, so that it can perfectly fit in the operating environment.How we built itThe circuit consists of a comparator, for which we have used an LM358 opamp ic. To control and sense the intensity of light(after dusk the intensity drops and after dawn the intensity grows) we used an LDR. The LDR with a 10k resistor forms a potential divider and the voltage gets feed to the non-inverting terminal of the comparator. To change the sensitivity we used a potentiometer to vary the voltage going to the inverting terminal of the comparator. Two LEDs were connected to the output of the comparator indicating the street lamps. And the circuit is done. To build the model of the street, cardboard was used and painted black. Pasted few white strips of paper to make it look like a real road. The street lamps were built using yellow LEDs and the headcover was built using a blister pack (medical tablets cover), to give it a more street lamp feel and also to diffuse the light. With help of straws and paper, the pole of the lights was built. Finally, to power it up, a 3.7v Lion battery was used.Challenges we ran intoBuilding the model was quite tough. While testing the circuit in a breadboard, due to loose connection, the output of the circuit was going high unconditionally, and that troubleshooting took a while. Again while connecting the wires of the LEDs, the wires came short and were very troublesome to solder them properly. And finally putting it all together on a perfboard and building the circuit was a bit challenging.Accomplishments that we're proud ofMaking the circuit work as desired on the breadboard was the 'Yaay' moment. Finishing soldering the circuit on the perfboard was indeed a great accomplishment. Making the model of the street and finding a way to make the cover of the street lamps by recycling the medical tablet covers was great.What we learnedWe learned how photoresistors work as we got to implement them in real life, which we learned as a theory in semesters. We learned about comparators, and how to use an op-amp as a comparator, also got to know that the open-loop gain of opamps is very high, thus they act as the comparator in an open-loop configuration. Again we read about potential dividers, but we implemented that here to know what exactly it is.What's next for Automatic StreetlightThinking of improving the comparator circuit to a Schmitt trigger configuration to prevent high-frequency switching while the transition of dusk or dawn. Adding a driver circuitry to drive relays, that can drive the actual street lamps. And that would be good to go for implementing them in real streets.EntertainmentAfter I completed the project model, at night it worked as a night-lamp for my room. The model is very convenient for utility and entertainment purposes because it automatically lights up when the room is dark and the lights also switch off when the room is lit, one can easily build this model for the sole purpose of creating a cool night-lamp for their room.

Gerekli a??klamalar videodad?r....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDA1PF81Zt8&t=3s

CASSIOPEIAThe ultimate (2021 at list) model rocket launchpad 3 min. readingCassiopeia is the launchpad electronic for Athena and hopefully for other rockets too. We hope it will be a timeless and always usable PCB.We have put a lot of effort and dedication into designing all the features to fit every possible need when it comes to launching.Cassiopea Front Cassiopea Back : Features3 Hold Down Clamps2 Upper Pliers2 Strongback arm servoHumidity Sensor1 BMP280 baro/temp4 Corner indicator ledsMotor sound detection systemRGB voltage status indicator ledServo control switchLaunch procedure reset switchCustom switch2 additional I2C connectionHumidity status led indicatorTemperature status led indicatorRain status led indicatorVoltage detectorOLED screenMicroSD socket12V relay controller (pyro)3x 3V3/GND ports3x 5V/GND ports10 analog pin exit4 rx/tx exit6 12V/GND exitRaindrop sensorVoltage regulatorSpeaker7 segment countdown sensorNRF24L01 Radio module12 Digital pinadditional spi lineBuzzerSound sensorCassiopeia in a nutshell manages all pre-launch checks and communicates with the rocket's avionics to determine if it is ready to be ignited.The security systems that this admits are on three levels, and it can be connected to an additional remote control launch control case.With Cassiopeia, in addition to all the safety functions, you can easily control three hold-down clamps, two servomotors to control the retractable strongback arm, and two more to hold the rocket in position from above.The project was entirely carried out by Christian Ferracane on EasyEda, here his email (and instagram) for any specific request.As Christian Ferracane writes on the Hephaestus’websiteThis PCB is the result of a week of work entirely focused on it.It has in fact been designed with the aim of being suitable for any need during the launch phase.I have personally puzzled to think about what the unexpected could be and to develop systems that can reduce them, if not even prevent them, thus increasing safety exponentially.The board has been designed to be easy to build and affordable for everyone, so that simply armed with a soldering iron everyone can have the opportunity to build one.All parts are trough hole to make the build easier and more affordable for everyone.

My TX4 Wireless Sensor Transmitter replaces the La Crosse TX4U wireless sensor which is no longer made. I bought a La Crosse WS-9025U Weather Projection Station from Costco in October 2003 for $43.29 . It projects the time and outdoor temperature on the ceiling, which I like. It also receives WWVB to set the time. My WS-9025U spent its first two years in the mild climate of San Jose (California) and then 13 years in the Virginia City Highlands in Nevada where the temperatures can go from 0 degrees (F) in the Winter to 100 degrees (F) in the Summer. Three years ago the outdoor sensor started eating batteries faster than it used to. Then I started getting an error message of OF.L for the outdoor temperature. That meant that the temperature/humidity sensor was bad. The transmitter part was still working but the data was bad. La Crosse does not make the TX4U sensor anymore. For awhile they said to use the TX7U. Now their Web site doesn’t mention it at all. Besides, the TX7U Sensor cost too much ($28.65 on Amazon) and has gotten some bad reviews. La Crosse doesn’t make the WS-9025U anymore either. Companies (including La Crosse) make new units that do projection but they get generally bad reviews. And they are ugly. The sensing element in the TX4U is unknown so replacing it was not an option. So I decided to see if I could make my own TX4U replacement. Most of the work on decoding the data protocol was already done by others. Most people who were interested in reverse engineering the La Crosse TX4U Sensor were interested because they wanted to be able to receive its signal, decode it, and use the temperature and humidity in their own projects. I found this explanation of the data essential to making my own: http://www.f6fbb.org/domo/sensors/tx3_th.php. The Webmaster is Jean-Paul ROUBELAT - F6FBB. Check out his home page: http://www.f6fbb.org/ Since I wanted to make the wireless sensor I had a small amount of work to do. Although my La Crosse TX4U went bad it was still transmitting, only it was transmitting bad data from the bad sensor. The La Crosse used a separate transmitter module so it was easy to find the pin with the data on it. I used my $10 logic analyzer USB pod. On eBay search for: 24MHz 8 CH USB Analyzer 8 Channel Logic Analyzer. It works really well with this open source software: https://sigrok.org/wiki/Downloads.I am posting one of the screens shots of what I found the TX4U doing. When the TX4U sends data it sends two identical packets of 44 bits. I will call it a data frame. Power-Up starts with a pulse followed by two frames of data. The Power-Up pulse lasts 114 ms. There is much more but since I did it, you don’t have to. The TX4U operates at 433 MHz (technically 433.92MHz) and uses OOK (On-Off Keying) which means that the transmitter is turned on-and-off to transmit data. That is opposed to protocols such as FSK (Frequency Shift Keying) where the carrier is always on during the transmission but the frequency is shifted to transmit data. OOK systems are less resistant to noise than FSK but the transmitters and receivers can be simpler and therefore cheaper. Because of the use of 433MHz for so many things you can buy cheap transmitters and receivers on eBay. Many are sold for use with the Arduino so you can have your own cheap (but slow) RF communications link. The first transmitter I used was the STX882. The STX882 is rated to work down to -20 degrees C (-4 degrees F). It didn’t. It stopped working below -3.8 degrees C (28 degrees F). I tried several. No joy. A similar transmitter module (maybe the same but older version) is the FS1000A. Since that didn’t work I am using the RFM68HW made by HopeRF (https://www.hoperf.com/). They make several versions of the RFM69. I chose the RFM69HW (433 MHz version). The pins are on 2.00mm centers (not 2.54mm = 0.1”) so you need 2.00mm headers. The RFM69 is a transceiver for sending and receiving digital data packets but can be configured for OOK. For complete info for the RFM69HW go here: https://www.hoperf.com/%20modules/rf_transceiver/RFM69HW.html For the sensor I used the Bosch BME-280 which measures temperature, absolute air pressure, and humidity. (I have experience with the Bosch BMP-280 sensor which measures temperature and absolute air pressure.) I have had two problems with the BME-280. 1. Several times when I have bought the BME-280 on eBay the sellers have sent me the BMP-280. The way you tell the difference is that the BME-280 is square with the hole on the left while the BMP-280 is rectangular and has the hole on the right. They also have different device IDs which are programmed into the part and which you can read. I have written a more complete explanation in the article on my Web site. www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/mytx4/jm_mytx4.htm 2. I have recently checked to see what they cost (for this article in November 2021) and they have doubled or tripled in cost on eBay. Now they cost too much. If you don’t need the humidity you can use the BMP-280. Then if the price of the BME-280 comes back to Earth you can use that one. The skill level for stuffing the board is: Intermediate. Make sure you use a temperature-controlled soldering iron. I use a temperature of 340 degrees Celsius. To compile the source code and download it into the microcontrollers I use Texas Instruments Code Composer Studio. It is free and is on this page: https://www.ti.com/tool/MSP-EXP430G2ET where you can get the versions for Windows, Linux and macOS. The direct link to the current version for Windows is:https://software-dl.ti.com/ccs/esd/CCSv10/CCS_10_4_0/exports/CCS10.4.0.00006_win64.zip . The skill level to use Code Composer Studio is: Advanced. (Maybe Really Advanced). Notes:1. The antenna is a piece of #20 solid wire 6.50” long (? wavelength at 432.9 MHz.) Add 1/8” to solder it to the board.2. My TX4 runs on a 18650 Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery. With the batteries I buy on eBay it lasts 6-8 months. To get longer battery life you could put two in parallel. Or you could use a small solar cell with a battery-charge IC. 3. To program the MSG430G2402 you connect the MyTX4 board to the Launchpad with three jumpers: GND, TEST, and /RES. To make it run standalone remove the three wires and use a header plug to connect the /RES and /Reset pins on the header (on the MyTX4 Board). The MyTX4 board can be used for other things A. Programmer with Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket. I have some other projects that do not have the Launchpad port on them. When you plug a part into the Launchpad to program it you risk bending a pin. When you straighten the pin it almost always breaks off. You can stuff a Textool ZIF in the MyTX4 board. It is a tight fit but it does fit. Stuff C6 bypass capacitor, three of the pins of J3, and two pins of J5. (If you stuff two pins on J5 you can solder it without burning your finger.) It connects to the Laumchpad with four wires: GND, TEST, /RES, and 3V23. B. Breakout Board For The RFM68HW Stuff the RFM68HW on the board. Stuff the C6 bypass capacitor. Stuff two 1x10 headers instead of the socket for the MSP430G2402. This gives you access to the following RFM68HW pins: GND, VCC, RESET, the SPI port and DIO2. If you need more of the signals you can connect them with jumper wires (like #30 Wire Wrap wire) to the header in the MSP430G2402 pads. I have posted more information (which you need) and more pictures on my Web site: www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/mytx4/jm_mytx4.htm Happy MyTX4’ing Jed MargolinVirginia City HighlandsNevada11/15/2021

--- BRPlaca de Controle utilizando o STM32F334K8. Serve de testes para fontes auxiliares simples, de baixo custo, comandos isolados, e medi??o de corrente e tens?o empregando TL072.Projeto open para que a comunidade possa se familizarizar com essa arquitetura. Utiliza oscilador interno do STM32F334.N?o testado. Em momento posterior irei introduzir um código fonte base para auxiliar nos testes. --- ENControl Board using the STM32F334K8. It is used for testing simple, low-cost Power Converters, isolated commands, and current and voltage measurement employing TL072. Open project so that the community can become familiar with this architecture. It uses the STM32F334's internal oscillator. Not tested. At a later time I will introduce a base source code to assist in testing. If someone likes this design and build some spare boards, please contact me, i'd like to have some units (I'm planning to build it in near Future, but if one has time to build and test, I'll be glad to have some boards)STM32F334K8 Section + DriversAnalog SectionPower Supply Section.

Teensy 3.2 is a great microcontroller board and it's one of the most popular development boards in the Arduino world. Inspired by a user's project on the PJRC forum, https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/33347-Tiniest-Teensy, I have made the Teensy 3.2 board smaller. The Mini T3.2 board is a small Teensy 3.2 compatible board and is based on the same MK20DX256VLH7 microcontroller as the Teensy 3.2 is. It will work with Teensyduino as a regular Teensy 3.2.Note: The Mini T3.2 board includes a built-in bootloader which must be bought from PJRC.com. With this on-board bootloader we will be able to make this project as OSH. Without this bootloader chip installed it is illegal to make this board unless you can get a special permission from PJRC.com.The smaller size (30.48mm x 12.98mm) is useful for making projects such as Hula Hoops, portable lightsabers and even wearable applications when the regular Teensy 3.2 is too large. It's breadboard friendly and pinouts are designed for TFT and OLED displays, no jumper wires are needed on a breadboard, leaving more space for your circuits. Hand soldering instructions for SMD parts:For DIY makers, the correct method of doing SMD assembly is to put solder paste on the board using a stencil, then manually place all SMD parts and use a reflow oven or a hot air gun to heat it. There are many demo videos available on You Tube, but for a reason If you need to hand solder one, it's a bit harder, but is still doable. I hope that the following steps will help you achieve your goal a bit easier. Silkscreen with part numbers: U2: MK20DX256VLH7 U3: Bootloader made by PJRC.com 1. The blank Mini T3.2 PC board. 2. Drag solder the U2. 3. Solder in the order of D1, C1, U1, B1, C2, C3. When parts are close together, it's not a problem for a pick & place machine, but it creates a problem for hand soldering, so the soldering order is important. For instance, if you solder the C3 before the C2, it will be more difficult to hand solder the C2. If you solder the U1 before the C1, it will be more difficult to hand solder the C1. 4. Solder the R1, B2 and C6, then R4,and R5, then C5 and C4. 5. Solder the C7, R3, C9 and C8. Tin the four Y1 pads, put more solder on the pin 1 and pin3, so when the solder is melt by hot air the crystal Y1 is connected with the pads 1 and 3 first. 6. Tin the Y1 and U3 (bootloader) evenly and add some flux on the PCB pads for the Y1 and U3 before place them over the pads on PCB. Make sure that orientation of the U3 is correct. If it's de-soldered from a teensy board, not a brand new, you may use alcohol to clean the top to see the tiny pin 1 dot. I don't have good eyesight, so I used a magnifier to see the pin 1 dot. 7. Use a hot air gun to apply heat to the Y1 and U3. 8. Visually check the connections of the U3. If there is a pin that does not look perfectly soldered, re-solder it with flux. Only the Pin 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9,10 and 13 need to be checked, other pins are not used. 9. Tin the 5 USB jack's pads and pads on the PCB, then solder all 5 pins. With enough flux it can be done easier than you think. Solder the R2, LED1 and S1.If you use non-clean flux use alcohol to clean aa solder residual before washing. Wash it thoroughly with a small brusher, or even a tooth brusher. After washing and cleaning, use a hot air blower or a hair dryer to dry it.If you don't have Non-clean flux on hand, you can use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol from Wal-Mart to replace it, it may not be as good as the flux, the result may be good enough. Assembling instructions for soldering two male headers:Before soldering all male pins make sure that the module can blink the D13 LED. Test it as you would test a Teensy 3.2, If it can't, troubleshoot the problem first before going further. 1. Parts needed:One of Mini T3.2 module.Two of 12-pin, right angle, male headers, 0.1" pitch. 2. Bend the 6 outer pins up. 3. Push down the middle 6 pins as much as possible using a flat screwdriver, one at a time. 4. The middle 6 pins are all pushed down. 5. If you don't push them down, the final assembled module will be like this. A large gap between the module and the headers. 6. Cut down the middle 6 pins to about half length. You can use a 1.2mm PCB as a reference or just estimate how much to cut off. It does not have to be very accurate.WARNING: make sure to wear safety glasses or use a finger to prevent the cut-off piece flying. 7. After cut. 8. The middle 6 pins are shorter. 9. Then put the male headers over the module, you can see there are a lot of room to add solder. 10. If you don't cut them, the pins are too long and it's harder to solder them to the pads. 11. Plug two pin headers onto breadboard at 0.4" apart. Make sure it's 0.4" apart, not 0.5" apart. 12. Place the Mini T3.2 module over two male headers.Start soldering 2 pins, pin1 and pin13. Solder pins while pressing down the board. Once those 2 pins are soldered, check to make sure there is even gap width between the module and the male headers. If not, you still have a chance to correct it. See the picture below.Then solder all other remaining pins.Be careful when soldering as some pins are close to components, don't make solder bridges. 13. The side view of the above picture. There should be a very small gap between the module and the male headers. 14. After soldering all pins on the top side turn over the module. 15. Solder all 12 pins on the bottom side. 16. This is the final assembled module. The middle 6 pins on each side are a bit long, but it still can be plugged into a breadboard. So it's your choice to trim them or not. 17. The module is small and there is no room to put all pin names on the top. Without the pin names it's harder for breadboarding. you can make a 0.8mm PCB as a label sheet.

Just like the standard traffic light kits, but with four directions!People I know ask what would be a good project to learn how to code, I always said a traffic light. Eventually one of them asked me to help them set it up. It quickly became obvious that breadboarding a traffic light with more than just one direction gets very messy very quick and is hard to visualize since all the LEDs are pointing up. This board fixes that. Grab a board and the components, follow my tutorial for how to solder it together, and just plug it into your arduino / nodemcu / raspberryPi / whatever and get coding! Clean compact package, easy to see what's going on, and a neat little trinket to have running on your desk. Not to mention it could be used in a model train build or similar as well!There's a lot to be desired with the standard one way kits, they show you how to turn led's on in sequence, but wouldn't it be more exciting to figure out how to do that same thing but in four directions at the same time? This board controls 12 LEDs with only 7 pins making this a great tool to learn how multiplexing works. But, don't worry, it can be used the same as a one way light too, so the initial learning curve will be the same, but there is just so much more potential if you chose to explore.Board with recommended components is 3.3v and 5v compatible, reverse polarity safe, and durable enough to survive being in a box with the rest of your parts. I even have some example code available if you get stuck.I had a blast designing building and testing this, hopefully you will too. Message me on reddit.com at u/Simply_Convoluted if you need a hand or want a kit with all the parts included or even a fully assembled board.

In this project we made an amplifier using Hi-fi and popular LM3886 Gainclone Amplifier IC. Many of us wants to make Virtual 5.1 or 7.1 Music System with this ic, but due to a lot of wiring we made a design with expandable feature, This Circuit has inbuilt Zobel Network, ABOUT THE PERFORMANCE The LM3886 is a high performance audio power amplifier capable of delivering 68W of continuous average power to a 4 Ohms load and 38W into 8 Ohms Load with 0.1% THD+N from 20Hz - 20Khz.The performance of the LM3886, utilizing its self peak instandaneous TEMPRATURE ( SPIKE ) Protection Circuitry, Puts It in a class Above Discrete and hybrid amplifiers by providing an inherently, dynamically protected Safe Operating Area. SPIKE Protection means that these parts are completely Safegaurded at the output against OVERVOLTAGE, UNDERVOLTAGE, OVERLOADS, Including shorts to the supplies, thermal runaway, and instantenous temprature peaks, The LM3886 Maintains an excellent signal to noise ratio of greater than 92dB with a typical low noise floor of 2.0 uV. it exhibits extremely low THD+N Values of 0.03% at the rated output into the rated load over the audio spectrum, and provides excellent linearity with an IMD typical rating of 0.004%.FEATURES? 68W Continuous Average Output Power at 4 ohms at Vcc = ±28V? 38W Continuous Average Output Power at 8 ohms at Vcc = ±28V? 50W Continuous Average Output Power at 8 ohms at Vcc = ±35V? 135W Instant Peak Power Output Capability? Signal to noise ratio >92dB? Input Mute Function? Output Portection from short to ground or to the supplies via internal current limiting circuitry? Output Over Voltage Protection against Transients from Inductive Loads? Wide Supply Range 20V - 94V APPLICATIONS? Component Stereo? Compact Stereo? Self-powered speakers? Surround Sound Amplifiers? High End Stereo TVs? Studio Monitors? Active TowersBILL OF MATERIALSBILL OF MATERIALSRESISTORSQTY VALUE3X 22K ohms 1/4 Watts 2X 1K ohms 1/4 Watts2X 10 Ohms 1 WattsCAPACITORS2X 150nf 100V NON POLAR 3X 100nf 100V NON POLAR1X 220pf 100V Polyster1X 2.2uf 250V NON POLAR2X 470uf 63V Electrolytic2X 100uf 63V ElectrolyticICs1X LM3886TF GAINCLONE AMPLIFIER ICCONNECTORS2X 2 PIN SCREW TERMINAL BLOCK2X 3 PIN SCREW TERMINAL BLOCKRefer the tutorial VideoINDIAN XTREME AUDIOLink- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Icin6rnPTDs&t=698sProject Gerber, and pcb layout pdf is given in the videos Description.

Hey guys and how you doing!So this is the C3P0 PCB Badge or a Blinky Board which is based around 555 Timer IC.Original C3PO was Built by Anakin Skywalker, C-3PO was designed as a protocol droid intended to assist in etiquette, customs, and translation, but this version doesn't do any of the original tasks, it just blinksI made this setup as a soldering challenge kit, We solder all the SMD components with a soldering iron and the end result will be a complete Bi-Flasher working circuit which is themed after our beloved C3PO.Also, if you're interested in getting this kit for yourself, check out my Tindie page for more details.In this post, I'm gonna show you guys how you can solder this kit in a few easy steps along with a few soldering tips and tricks.Material requiredthese are the stuff that I used in this built555 Timer ICCoin Cell Holder SMD1206 LED x 2Custom PCB10K Resistor 0805 Package x 4M7 DiodeSwitch22uF 16V CapacitorCON2 Vertical header PinSoldering equipmentand patienceBasic info about the circuitBefore starting the soldering Process, Let first see the working schematic of this C3PO Badge.The main component here is the Mightly 555 timer ic which is set up in a Bi Flasher Mode. This means at the output Pin, two LEDs are connected in such a way that when a positive signal gets out of Pin 3 this will make LED 2 Glow and LED 1 will remain LOW, and when the positive signals don't get out of Pin 3 LED 2 will become LOW and LED1 will start glowingBi Flasher constantly turns Both LEDs ON and OFF by repetitive biasing of both LEDs through pin 3.The flashing rate can be controlled by changing the value of the capacitor connected between Pin 2 and GND. right now I'm using a 22uf 16V capacitor but if we use a 10uf capacitor, the flash rate will increase.I've used this same circuit in my previous Ghost badge Project which is also a soldering kit but a THT one, this version is an SMD soldering kit with almost all component SMD except for Switch, Cap, and CON2 Pin.Getting PCBs from PCBWAYAfter finalizing the PCB and checking it one last time, I exported its Gerber data.I used PCBWAY PCB Service for this project. I uploaded the Gerber file of this project on PCBWAY's quote page. For this C3PO badge, I went with yellow Soldermask and white silkscreen.After placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great, This shape is completely random so it's pretty hard to make but they did an awesome job of making this PCB with no error whatsoever.You guys can check out PCBWAY if you want Great PCB Service at an Affordable rate and low price.Soldering ProcessAfter getting the PCBs, I started the assembly process which includes adding SMD components first and then adding THT Components.We have to add timer ic and a few resistors on the backside first and then LEDs on the front side.Let's start with the backside first.First set up your soldering station with an Iron Tip Temp of 316°- 343°C.We start by adding solder to each component pad first, just on one side.Then we pick the component and place it in its place by heating the added solder.solder will melt and hold the component from one side, then we redo this process for all the components. the goal here is to temporarily hold the component from one side and later add more solder wire on the other side which will connect the components to the other pad and the soldering process will get completed.After placing each component, we use the solder wire to solder the other end of each component that hasn't been connected to the pad yet. this method of soldering SMD component is widely used and it's very easy to learn as well.for adding an SMD Coin Cell holder, the same method has to be used, we add solder to one pad, use that pad to hold the component in place, and then add solder to the other pad to hold the component in its place completely.now after soldering all the components on the bottom side, we start the LED soldering. Process for them is also the same, we add solder to one side first, we add the led through this side, and then do the same for the second led, then we add solder on the other side and LEDs will get connected with its pad perfectly.just make sure to connect LEDs in the right polarity, also because the LED outer body is made from plastic, avid heating the pads of LEDs for a very long interval, be quick while soldering or the led outer body will melt and it will get destroyed. These LEDs are made for the Reflow process, not the soldering iron process so it's better to not heat the plastic part for too long.Now we add the remaining THT components which are Switch and Capacitor.the switch will go into its THT Pad and the capacitor will be placed in its pad. be sure to check the polarity of the capacitor before placing it.at last, I added a vertical con2 pin to this badge which will let us connect this badge with external power via a breadboard.This was the soldering process and the badge is completedRESULTFor powering this badge, we have to add a CP2032 Lithium Coin cell in its holder and turn on the switch. Both LEDs will start flickering in a chasing sequence, the first led will glow and the second will stay low, then the second led will turn HIGH and the first led will turn LOW, and this process will get repeated over and over.This setup works exactly like my previous ghost badge project, in the ghost badge same circuit has been used but it contains a through-hole version.Check out Ghost Badge if you're interested in the THT Soldering.This is it for today folks, Leave a comment if you need any help.Peace out and have a nice day!Bye-bye