The AC5EC board contains a microcontroller, two EEPROM modules, a clock and calendar module, two crystal oscillators, and several SMD-sized resistors, capacitors, and LEDs. In addition, it includes headers for connecting peripherals to the microcontroller. All this is done, on a relatively small board, measuring 44x28 mm. The Atmega328P-PU MCU is in the center of the board. The headers and the indicator LED are placed along the edges. SMD components are used to keep the board size to a minimum. I selected SMD packages that are large enough to be hand soldered.The motivation behind this board was to create an Arduino-Uno compatible board, small in size, that can be powered using alkaline batteries. This board also has the ability to keep a track of time, have sufficient built-in memory for data logging, and to be able to connect a variety of sensors using standard headers. The AC5EC board can be readily interfaced with many of the CoTs sensor modules like environment, temperature sensors, by simply connecting them in the I2C headers.

A GPS Module using the U-blox NEO6MV2 is used to receive the GPS timing signals to show the exact time on a 16x2 LCD display. In addition to the display, the end of each minute is signaled with a musical cord. To hear it go to my Web site:www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/gps-clock/gps-clock_sound-minutes.mp3 The board uses a Texas Instruments MSP430G2553 to receive the GPS messages from the GPS Module and an MSP430G2402 that uses PWM to produce a nice sine wave tone for the musical notes. (If you don’t want the musical tones you can leave that part of the board unstuffed.) Each microcontroller has a three-wire port that connects to an inexpensive Texas Instruments Launchpad (MSP-EXP430G2ET) to program the microcontroller. After the microcontroller is programmed you remove the three wires and insert a header plug to make it run standalone. My GPS Clock has several selectable modes. 1. Display the Local Time/Date.2. Display the UTC Time/Date.3. Select Local Time in 12 hour or 24 hour format.4. Select UTC offset for Local Time.5. Select whether DST is observed.6. Display DST Start and End dates for the current year.7. Display Number of GPS Satellite in view.8. Armageddon Alarm Mode. The offset for the local time, and whether DST is observed, is stored in the MSP430G2553’s User Flash Segment C. If it has not been set the default is Pacific Time with DST observed. The Armageddon Alarm Mode requires some explanation. The unit starts by waiting to acquire at least five GPS satellites. If the GPS module has not been powered up recently it may take several minutes to acquire the satellites. It may take several more minutes for the PPS (Pulse Per Second) LED to start flashing. Indeed, it has sometimes taken 20 minutes to get started. Typically, I get 11 or 12 satellites where I live. If the number of GPS satellites drops to three or fewer then something bad is happening. The odds that the GPS system is having a technical problem are vanishingly small. What is happening is Armageddon. Armageddon can happen in several ways. One way is for the Sun to emit a huge coronal mass ejection (CME) that hits the Earth. The CME will induce damaging currents in anything that conducts electricity. This will burn out the power grids (the Eastern Grid, the Western Grid, and the Texas Grid) and most electrical devices except for those that have been specially “hardened” against it (in a Faraday cage). A huge CME will burn out most (probably all) of the satellites in Earth orbit including the GPS satellites starting on the sunward side of the Earth and then quickly spread to the nightside by the Earth’s magnetic field. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coronal_mass_ejection. There was a huge CME in 1859 (the Carrington Event) that burned out telegraph lines all over North America. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrington_Event. The reason it didn’t burn out anything else is because there wasn’t anything else. No power lines, no telephone lines, no radio, no television, no cell phones, no Internet. There were just telegraph lines and a telegraph system that operated from batteries. (When your telegraph battery ran down you swapped it for a spare and sent the old one back to the factory to be rebuilt.) The other way for Armageddon to happen is a Global Thermonuclear War. The first thing everyone will do when they start Armageddon is destroy or otherwise disable everyone else’s satellite navigation systems. The GPS Clock With Armageddon Alarm will give you instant notice by playing an alarm sound. To hear it go to my Web site: www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/gps-clock/gps-clock-alarm.mp3It also provides a 3.3V logic level signal that you can connect your own alarm to. (The interface depends on what your alarm is so you will have to do that yourself.) The skill level for stuffing the board is: Intermediate. Make sure you use a temperature-controlled soldering iron. I use a temperature of 340 degrees Celsius. The skill level for installing and using the two pieces of software is: Advanced. 1. To compile the source code and download it into the microcontrollers I use Texas Instruments Code Composer Studio. It is free and is on this page:https://www.ti.com/tool/MSP-EXP430G2ET where you can get the versions for Windows, Linux and macOS. The direct link to the current version for Windows is:https://software-dl.ti.com/ccs/esd/CCSv10/CCS_10_4_0/exports/CCS10.4.0.00006_win64.zip . The skill level to use Code Composer Studio is: Advanced. (Maybe Really Advanced). 2. The U-blox NEO6MV2 allows you to enable the GPS messages that you want and disable the messages that you don’t want. I use "GNZDA" (or “GPZDA”) for the time and "GPGSV" for the number of satellites in view. I disable all of the other messages. To do that you need the U-blox U-Center 2 software available for free at https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/u-center . (It is only for Windows.) You also need to connect the module to a PC. I made a simple stand using #12 solid wire. This is the wire used in house wiring. The audio output is Line Level. A good (cheap) way to listen to it is with a (cheap) Bluetooth speaker with an Aux input. I bought one on eBay for $7. The Aux input takes a standard 3.5mm stereo miniplug (male). If you ground the test pad labeled “/TST” and press the Reset switch the sound processor will play the Armageddon Alarm. It will play it until you unground the /TST pad and press Reset again. This will not test the Alarm Flag Output, just the sound. I did it this way so you can connect your own alarm without having to stuff the Sound processor. Do Not Use This Test Function As A Prank. The End of the World is a serious matter. I have posted more information (which you need) and more pictures on my Web site: www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/gps-clock/gps-clock.htm This includes the source code. The source code is complete. It does not require any libraries other than the ones that come in Code Composer Studio. Jed MargolinVirginia City HighlandsNevada

Based on this printed circuit board, you can make almost any clock on a 7 segment LED display with a common cathode or with a common anode.The device uses an 8-bit STM8S103F3P6 microcontroller, a DS3231 real-time clock, a TM1623 display control driver, and a DS18B20 temperature sensor.The VD1 diode is protected against reverse polarity of the power supply. Also, this project can be used with a display from a DVD player.

1.Preparing to use the device with the "built-in" Attiny 85In case of having the device with the micro already installed and to use it with our project we will need the following:-Download the Arduino IDE: https://www.arduino.cc/en/softwareWe download the version and desired and then we will need to make an initial configuration. -Add support for the ATTINY 85Open the downloaded program and a window will open with a blank project. We proceed to select the preferences option in the files tab.Once the window is opened, copy and paste the following URL:https://drazzy.com/package_drazzy.com_index.jsonIf we have a URL already entered, it is not necessary to delete it, we simply add the new one below. We give OK to all windows to save the changes.Then we must go to Tools-Board-Card Manager.When the card manager opens we will need to look for AttinyCore and install it to have support for our ATTiny85.Once this is done, we will have support to program the microcontroller integrated into the card.Now we will need to install the library of the NeoPixels to be able to use them easily. This is done from Program-Include Library-Manage Library.We searched for NeoPixel and installed the library as shown below.We will also need to install the RTClib library to have real-time clock support that the card has integrated.Once this is done we are ready to start programming our card.The good thing about the Arduino IDE is that there are many libraries available to execute functions or integrate peripherals in a very simple way, you can install as many as you need since these are installed on the PC but when integrating them into the project you must be careful since these consume resources of the microcontroller and we can easily run out of space.2.Create a program, compile it and upload it to the microcontroller to run it.To create an Arduino program we must first of all integrate the libraries that we download for that you can copy the following text at the beginning of the sketch without deleting anything.#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>#include <RTClib.h>#define NUM_LEDS 54#define BUTTON 4RTC_DS3231 rtc;Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, 1, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);Now you are ready to write your programs and make use of all the functions to program the ATtiny 85 microcontroller you can follow this tutorial to use an Arduino one as a programmer.https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/arjun/programming-attiny85-with-arduino-uno-afb829To use as a display from another microcontroller: You can use the display from any microcontroller for your project by soldering the pin corresponding to the data of the NeoPixels to the pad "Display", you can also take the input of the button present on the card by welding to the button pin.DO NOT INSTALL THE ATTINY 85 TO USE THE EXTERNAL DISPLAY INPUT User manual for the watch function. Fig1. Fig2.-To turn on the card simply connect the USB cable to the micro USB port of the card and the other end to any available USB port.-You will be shown the welcome message and then the last hour set with the color and brightness due to defects or saved by the user in the last configuration will be shown.-To place the card in a vertical position, remove the stand as indicated in fig1. Then with the USB cable connected slide the notch of the stand from the bottom up as indicated in fig2.-To adjust the time simply press the OPTIONS/ENTER button at the top of the card as shown in fig1. Once you enter the options you can release the button to change the option simply press the button the option will change up to intervals until its maximum option and restart to the initial option again, once you have the desired option selected release the button and then 4sec. It will be advanced to the next option automatically.-The options are as follows:"CO 01" Choose the desired color within the available four; red, green, blue, white."BR 01" Indicates the intensity of the brightness of the led the option goes from 2 to 25 being the latter the most intense."HR 00" option to set the time in 24hs format."MI 00" option to set the minutes."DI ON" Control whether the time is displayed or not if you choose the option not to show the time press the button to show the time and to re-show the time indefinitely press the button for 5 sec until "DION" is displayed on the screen.-Once the desired options are selected, they will be saved in the memory of the card, the time is the only variable that depends on the secondary battery of the card.Once this is over, the hour will be lost every time the card loses the main power supply.-When the secondary battery is exhausted when connecting the card you will be shown the message: BATT 0% indicating that it is necessary to change the battery, it will also be shown if it is the first time the watch is turned on.-To change the same slide the battery in the direction of the arrow in fig1. With a plastic or wood element; it can be a pen lid or toothpick.-To place a new battery this has to be of the CR1220 model and you must make sure that the + of the battery looks up coinciding with the symbol that is on the card.-To activate the SQW pin of the DS1307 PSTN as of 1hz press the button during the welcome message and the text"SQ 1H" will be displayed on the screen and the SQW pin will emit a pulse every 60 sec approximately, repeat the process to deactivate it.-DO NOT EXPOSE TO DIRECT SUN OR WATER-POWER SUPPLY MUST NOT EXCEED 5V

This is an electronic project created on a romantic theme. This project differs from LED hearts that it can be used not only as a gift for Valentine's day, but also used by everyone at work in the office or just at home.The hand-made electronic device presented to your attention displays the time and temperature sequentially. I wrote a simple MENU with settings for individual user characteristics. Absolutely all parameters are configured in this menu. Such as the frequency of displaying time and temperature, various animation effects are configured.The effects are divided into 2 groups. The first group is effects that can be displayed every second, the second group is effects that are displayed in the interval from 1 minute to 60 minutes.The device has a night mode, it can dim the brightness of the display and the heart, or the display and the heart can be completely turned off while it is night so as not to interfere with your sleep. When morning comes, the watch will automatically turn on the display itself. The device operates from a constant voltage of 5 volts.The device is made on an 8-bit STM8S103F3P6 microcontroller, the display is controlled by the TM1628 chip. The heart consists of 14 red LEDs, they are connected to 74HC595 chips. DS18B20 temperature sensor. DS3231 real-time clock. All chips are connected via SPI and I2C hardware interfaces.Watch the video of the work in my Instagram: domdevice. I haven't uploaded it to the YouTube video hosting yet.I would like to express my gratitude to PCBWay for its support. Sincerely, Ivan from domdevice.

http://j-rpm.com/category/reloj-led-fc-209-serie/https://a-apl.blogspot.com/2020/02/reloj-led-con-esfera-rotante.htmlPara mayor información podría ir a los siguientes links del inicio en donde puede adquirir información acerca de este proyecto.Montaje de un reloj LED con esfera rotante. Este reloj se puede comprar en kit, circuito impreso y componentes, y es muy interesante para realizar prácticas de programación con microcontroladores. También es un kit muy interesante para principiantes en electrónica. En este artículo se trata de un reloj con esfera rotante con diodos led y un display de 7 segmentos, hoy en día hay una variedad de tiendas virtuales que ofrecen para su venta, la pueden encontrar en Bangood, AliExpres tiendas online que ofrecen en precios asequibles a este producto. Existe en versiones diferentes, pero con las mismas prestaciones difiriéndose solo en el Firmware del kit, se puede adquirir para ensamblar o ensamblado, si adquiere para ensamblar se debe tener habilidades para la soldadura en SMD (montaje en superficie), ya que los componentes en su mayoría son de montaje en superficie. Si adquiere ensamblado se evita el preocupante trabajo de ensamblar, en ambos casos el Kit ya viene con microcontrolador programado por esta parte tiene la ventaja, al menos quiere hacer el nuevo firmware y luego programar el micro con un programador. La idea es hacer nuevo hardware de este proyecto, y que sea compartida de manera pública, tener acceso a los archivos de manera gratuita por si alguien desea hacer o fabricar, con las prestaciones de la tecnología del pleno siglo XXI, el detalle es que, en vez de comprar en el mercado, se puede realizar el dise?o. Entonces en ese sentido podemos apreciar en el esquema del reloj, el microprocesador se puede programar utilizando un interface serie (ISP). También podemos observar que en este módulo de reloj se incluye un sensor de temperatura, controlado por un sólo hilo (DS1820), que estará censando de manera óptima y puntual. El corazón de este módulo (EC1204B) es el chip DS1302, encargado de controlar la cuenta del tiempo (fecha y hora), además de almacenar los datos de sus alarmas (hora y temperaturas) dentro de su memoria RAM. Este peque?o chip (DS1302) necesita tener conectado una peque?a pila, si queremos mantener en marcha el reloj y salvar los datos de configuración cada vez que desconectamos la alimentación del módulo.

1. El reloj contiene dos microcontroladores ATMega 328 montados, uno sobre una base fija y el otro sobre la hélice de dos palas.2. El μC de la hélice controls 2 x 25 LEDs para la visualización por persistencia retiniana de una imagen circular constituida por 3.200 puntos.3. La hélice está pegada sobre el cubo de un motor de ventilador y gira con él.4. El estator del mismo motor es solidario con la base sobre la que está pegado.5. La energía eléctrica es transferida si hilos, de la base a la hélice, por un transformador de dos bobinas concéntricas, bobinadas alrededor del motor sobre el que se han acoplado las patas.6. El primario del transformador (arrollamiento exterior) está pegado sobre la base. El secundario (arrollamiento interior) está pegado sobre el cubo del motor.7. Los datos de control para la visualización son enviados al μC de la hélice por medio de una se?al infrarroja, emitida por una corona de emisores sobre la base, debajo de los cuales gira un fotodiodo.8. La hélice es inaudible ya que gira relativamente lenta. La imagen obtenida por persistencia retiniana es estable, de una parte porque las dos palas producen, por turno, el mismo fragmento, y, por otra parte, porque el μC la adapta a la velocidad de rotación real de la hélice.9. La casi totalidad de las tareas están gestionadas por medio de 4 interrupciones.10. Todos los ajustes se efectúan con la ayuda de un único botón pulsador rotativo, bajo la base de: puesta en vigilancia, puesta en hora, ajuste de la fecha, de la luminosidad y de la velocidad de rotación de día y de noche, elección del idioma, selección del modo de visualización (?61 configuraciones posibles!).

Quadrity is a pcb board created as a device to simplify the every day life of a person. The boards contains: a clock with local and foreign time, a radio with ir controll and a temperature / humidity sensor. All the values are shown to the user through the use of 7-segment displays. In fact, the project develops around the 7-segment displays, chosen for their simplicity and charm. The way of using the 7 segments is, in my opinion, a way of representing data and values that is very undervalued, especially if it refers to the home user compared to the working one.

I was always amazed at these small devices. My dad uses these to log into his work laptop, I couldn't understand how can it generate a code without being connected to any network.I fired up google and tried to search about it, and surprisingly it used a pretty amazing concept. It had a shared key with the server, and then it did some computation on the shared key and current UTC time to get a 6-digit number. So, the remote device just had to be accurate at timekeeping. It uses an algorithm called TOTP (Time based one time password), it's been standardized and there's no point in getting into the details, here's the standard if anyone wants to take a look. You can read this article on freecodecamp.org for a more layman-ish approach to the whole algorithm.First PrototypeComing back, so I decided to implement this using ESP32, because I had a devkit lying around, and the OLED and RTC libraries were solid, and I could use WiFi to get accurate time, which is absolutely need to generate the codes, here's a picture of the first prototype.It worked fine, I used to generate a secret key from here, and then flash the esp32 with the new key and boom, it generated codes I wanted to (It was not as easy as it sounds, I had to spend days putting together a firmware to do it, and it was start of Covid-19 Lock down so I had a lot of free time).Second PrototypeI wanted to take this to next level, make something like those RSA key id devices, but more configurable and not exactly use and throw like those and ESP32 was the right tool for it. So, I designed a PCB for the same. It was a long process, I had to handle my summer internship, finally by October I finished designing it and after getting it reviewed and rerouting again after two weeks, my PCB was ready to be ordered.Final DesignAfter the second prototype I wanted to make it more sleek as the OLED was being used as a external module and it increased the height too much. So, I designed a new board, basically updated the board design by rerouting and optimizing it. You can see both designs and see the improvements.https://www.freecodecamp.org/news/how-time-based-one-time-passwords-work-and-why-you-should-use-them-in-your-app-fdd2b9ed43c3/