Gerekli a??klamalar videodad?r....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDA1PF81Zt8&t=3s

CASSIOPEIAThe ultimate (2021 at list) model rocket launchpad 3 min. readingCassiopeia is the launchpad electronic for Athena and hopefully for other rockets too. We hope it will be a timeless and always usable PCB.We have put a lot of effort and dedication into designing all the features to fit every possible need when it comes to launching.Cassiopea Front Cassiopea Back : Features3 Hold Down Clamps2 Upper Pliers2 Strongback arm servoHumidity Sensor1 BMP280 baro/temp4 Corner indicator ledsMotor sound detection systemRGB voltage status indicator ledServo control switchLaunch procedure reset switchCustom switch2 additional I2C connectionHumidity status led indicatorTemperature status led indicatorRain status led indicatorVoltage detectorOLED screenMicroSD socket12V relay controller (pyro)3x 3V3/GND ports3x 5V/GND ports10 analog pin exit4 rx/tx exit6 12V/GND exitRaindrop sensorVoltage regulatorSpeaker7 segment countdown sensorNRF24L01 Radio module12 Digital pinadditional spi lineBuzzerSound sensorCassiopeia in a nutshell manages all pre-launch checks and communicates with the rocket's avionics to determine if it is ready to be ignited.The security systems that this admits are on three levels, and it can be connected to an additional remote control launch control case.With Cassiopeia, in addition to all the safety functions, you can easily control three hold-down clamps, two servomotors to control the retractable strongback arm, and two more to hold the rocket in position from above.The project was entirely carried out by Christian Ferracane on EasyEda, here his email (and instagram) for any specific request.As Christian Ferracane writes on the Hephaestus’websiteThis PCB is the result of a week of work entirely focused on it.It has in fact been designed with the aim of being suitable for any need during the launch phase.I have personally puzzled to think about what the unexpected could be and to develop systems that can reduce them, if not even prevent them, thus increasing safety exponentially.The board has been designed to be easy to build and affordable for everyone, so that simply armed with a soldering iron everyone can have the opportunity to build one.All parts are trough hole to make the build easier and more affordable for everyone.

My TX4 Wireless Sensor Transmitter replaces the La Crosse TX4U wireless sensor which is no longer made. I bought a La Crosse WS-9025U Weather Projection Station from Costco in October 2003 for $43.29 . It projects the time and outdoor temperature on the ceiling, which I like. It also receives WWVB to set the time. My WS-9025U spent its first two years in the mild climate of San Jose (California) and then 13 years in the Virginia City Highlands in Nevada where the temperatures can go from 0 degrees (F) in the Winter to 100 degrees (F) in the Summer. Three years ago the outdoor sensor started eating batteries faster than it used to. Then I started getting an error message of OF.L for the outdoor temperature. That meant that the temperature/humidity sensor was bad. The transmitter part was still working but the data was bad. La Crosse does not make the TX4U sensor anymore. For awhile they said to use the TX7U. Now their Web site doesn’t mention it at all. Besides, the TX7U Sensor cost too much ($28.65 on Amazon) and has gotten some bad reviews. La Crosse doesn’t make the WS-9025U anymore either. Companies (including La Crosse) make new units that do projection but they get generally bad reviews. And they are ugly. The sensing element in the TX4U is unknown so replacing it was not an option. So I decided to see if I could make my own TX4U replacement. Most of the work on decoding the data protocol was already done by others. Most people who were interested in reverse engineering the La Crosse TX4U Sensor were interested because they wanted to be able to receive its signal, decode it, and use the temperature and humidity in their own projects. I found this explanation of the data essential to making my own: http://www.f6fbb.org/domo/sensors/tx3_th.php. The Webmaster is Jean-Paul ROUBELAT - F6FBB. Check out his home page: http://www.f6fbb.org/ Since I wanted to make the wireless sensor I had a small amount of work to do. Although my La Crosse TX4U went bad it was still transmitting, only it was transmitting bad data from the bad sensor. The La Crosse used a separate transmitter module so it was easy to find the pin with the data on it. I used my $10 logic analyzer USB pod. On eBay search for: 24MHz 8 CH USB Analyzer 8 Channel Logic Analyzer. It works really well with this open source software: https://sigrok.org/wiki/Downloads.I am posting one of the screens shots of what I found the TX4U doing. When the TX4U sends data it sends two identical packets of 44 bits. I will call it a data frame. Power-Up starts with a pulse followed by two frames of data. The Power-Up pulse lasts 114 ms. There is much more but since I did it, you don’t have to. The TX4U operates at 433 MHz (technically 433.92MHz) and uses OOK (On-Off Keying) which means that the transmitter is turned on-and-off to transmit data. That is opposed to protocols such as FSK (Frequency Shift Keying) where the carrier is always on during the transmission but the frequency is shifted to transmit data. OOK systems are less resistant to noise than FSK but the transmitters and receivers can be simpler and therefore cheaper. Because of the use of 433MHz for so many things you can buy cheap transmitters and receivers on eBay. Many are sold for use with the Arduino so you can have your own cheap (but slow) RF communications link. The first transmitter I used was the STX882. The STX882 is rated to work down to -20 degrees C (-4 degrees F). It didn’t. It stopped working below -3.8 degrees C (28 degrees F). I tried several. No joy. A similar transmitter module (maybe the same but older version) is the FS1000A. Since that didn’t work I am using the RFM68HW made by HopeRF (https://www.hoperf.com/). They make several versions of the RFM69. I chose the RFM69HW (433 MHz version). The pins are on 2.00mm centers (not 2.54mm = 0.1”) so you need 2.00mm headers. The RFM69 is a transceiver for sending and receiving digital data packets but can be configured for OOK. For complete info for the RFM69HW go here: https://www.hoperf.com/%20modules/rf_transceiver/RFM69HW.html For the sensor I used the Bosch BME-280 which measures temperature, absolute air pressure, and humidity. (I have experience with the Bosch BMP-280 sensor which measures temperature and absolute air pressure.) I have had two problems with the BME-280. 1. Several times when I have bought the BME-280 on eBay the sellers have sent me the BMP-280. The way you tell the difference is that the BME-280 is square with the hole on the left while the BMP-280 is rectangular and has the hole on the right. They also have different device IDs which are programmed into the part and which you can read. I have written a more complete explanation in the article on my Web site. www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/mytx4/jm_mytx4.htm 2. I have recently checked to see what they cost (for this article in November 2021) and they have doubled or tripled in cost on eBay. Now they cost too much. If you don’t need the humidity you can use the BMP-280. Then if the price of the BME-280 comes back to Earth you can use that one. The skill level for stuffing the board is: Intermediate. Make sure you use a temperature-controlled soldering iron. I use a temperature of 340 degrees Celsius. To compile the source code and download it into the microcontrollers I use Texas Instruments Code Composer Studio. It is free and is on this page: https://www.ti.com/tool/MSP-EXP430G2ET where you can get the versions for Windows, Linux and macOS. The direct link to the current version for Windows is:https://software-dl.ti.com/ccs/esd/CCSv10/CCS_10_4_0/exports/CCS10.4.0.00006_win64.zip . The skill level to use Code Composer Studio is: Advanced. (Maybe Really Advanced). Notes:1. The antenna is a piece of #20 solid wire 6.50” long (? wavelength at 432.9 MHz.) Add 1/8” to solder it to the board.2. My TX4 runs on a 18650 Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery. With the batteries I buy on eBay it lasts 6-8 months. To get longer battery life you could put two in parallel. Or you could use a small solar cell with a battery-charge IC. 3. To program the MSG430G2402 you connect the MyTX4 board to the Launchpad with three jumpers: GND, TEST, and /RES. To make it run standalone remove the three wires and use a header plug to connect the /RES and /Reset pins on the header (on the MyTX4 Board). The MyTX4 board can be used for other things A. Programmer with Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket. I have some other projects that do not have the Launchpad port on them. When you plug a part into the Launchpad to program it you risk bending a pin. When you straighten the pin it almost always breaks off. You can stuff a Textool ZIF in the MyTX4 board. It is a tight fit but it does fit. Stuff C6 bypass capacitor, three of the pins of J3, and two pins of J5. (If you stuff two pins on J5 you can solder it without burning your finger.) It connects to the Laumchpad with four wires: GND, TEST, /RES, and 3V23. B. Breakout Board For The RFM68HW Stuff the RFM68HW on the board. Stuff the C6 bypass capacitor. Stuff two 1x10 headers instead of the socket for the MSP430G2402. This gives you access to the following RFM68HW pins: GND, VCC, RESET, the SPI port and DIO2. If you need more of the signals you can connect them with jumper wires (like #30 Wire Wrap wire) to the header in the MSP430G2402 pads. I have posted more information (which you need) and more pictures on my Web site: www.jmargolin.com/newprojects/mytx4/jm_mytx4.htm Happy MyTX4’ing Jed MargolinVirginia City HighlandsNevada11/15/2021

--- BRPlaca de Controle utilizando o STM32F334K8. Serve de testes para fontes auxiliares simples, de baixo custo, comandos isolados, e medi??o de corrente e tens?o empregando TL072.Projeto open para que a comunidade possa se familizarizar com essa arquitetura. Utiliza oscilador interno do STM32F334.N?o testado. Em momento posterior irei introduzir um código fonte base para auxiliar nos testes. --- ENControl Board using the STM32F334K8. It is used for testing simple, low-cost Power Converters, isolated commands, and current and voltage measurement employing TL072. Open project so that the community can become familiar with this architecture. It uses the STM32F334's internal oscillator. Not tested. At a later time I will introduce a base source code to assist in testing. If someone likes this design and build some spare boards, please contact me, i'd like to have some units (I'm planning to build it in near Future, but if one has time to build and test, I'll be glad to have some boards)STM32F334K8 Section + DriversAnalog SectionPower Supply Section.

Teensy 3.2 is a great microcontroller board and it's one of the most popular development boards in the Arduino world. Inspired by a user's project on the PJRC forum, https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/33347-Tiniest-Teensy, I have made the Teensy 3.2 board smaller. The Mini T3.2 board is a small Teensy 3.2 compatible board and is based on the same MK20DX256VLH7 microcontroller as the Teensy 3.2 is. It will work with Teensyduino as a regular Teensy 3.2.Note: The Mini T3.2 board includes a built-in bootloader which must be bought from PJRC.com. With this on-board bootloader we will be able to make this project as OSH. Without this bootloader chip installed it is illegal to make this board unless you can get a special permission from PJRC.com.The smaller size (30.48mm x 12.98mm) is useful for making projects such as Hula Hoops, portable lightsabers and even wearable applications when the regular Teensy 3.2 is too large. It's breadboard friendly and pinouts are designed for TFT and OLED displays, no jumper wires are needed on a breadboard, leaving more space for your circuits. Hand soldering instructions for SMD parts:For DIY makers, the correct method of doing SMD assembly is to put solder paste on the board using a stencil, then manually place all SMD parts and use a reflow oven or a hot air gun to heat it. There are many demo videos available on You Tube, but for a reason If you need to hand solder one, it's a bit harder, but is still doable. I hope that the following steps will help you achieve your goal a bit easier. Silkscreen with part numbers: U2: MK20DX256VLH7 U3: Bootloader made by PJRC.com 1. The blank Mini T3.2 PC board. 2. Drag solder the U2. 3. Solder in the order of D1, C1, U1, B1, C2, C3. When parts are close together, it's not a problem for a pick & place machine, but it creates a problem for hand soldering, so the soldering order is important. For instance, if you solder the C3 before the C2, it will be more difficult to hand solder the C2. If you solder the U1 before the C1, it will be more difficult to hand solder the C1. 4. Solder the R1, B2 and C6, then R4,and R5, then C5 and C4. 5. Solder the C7, R3, C9 and C8. Tin the four Y1 pads, put more solder on the pin 1 and pin3, so when the solder is melt by hot air the crystal Y1 is connected with the pads 1 and 3 first. 6. Tin the Y1 and U3 (bootloader) evenly and add some flux on the PCB pads for the Y1 and U3 before place them over the pads on PCB. Make sure that orientation of the U3 is correct. If it's de-soldered from a teensy board, not a brand new, you may use alcohol to clean the top to see the tiny pin 1 dot. I don't have good eyesight, so I used a magnifier to see the pin 1 dot. 7. Use a hot air gun to apply heat to the Y1 and U3. 8. Visually check the connections of the U3. If there is a pin that does not look perfectly soldered, re-solder it with flux. Only the Pin 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9,10 and 13 need to be checked, other pins are not used. 9. Tin the 5 USB jack's pads and pads on the PCB, then solder all 5 pins. With enough flux it can be done easier than you think. Solder the R2, LED1 and S1.If you use non-clean flux use alcohol to clean aa solder residual before washing. Wash it thoroughly with a small brusher, or even a tooth brusher. After washing and cleaning, use a hot air blower or a hair dryer to dry it.If you don't have Non-clean flux on hand, you can use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol from Wal-Mart to replace it, it may not be as good as the flux, the result may be good enough. Assembling instructions for soldering two male headers:Before soldering all male pins make sure that the module can blink the D13 LED. Test it as you would test a Teensy 3.2, If it can't, troubleshoot the problem first before going further. 1. Parts needed:One of Mini T3.2 module.Two of 12-pin, right angle, male headers, 0.1" pitch. 2. Bend the 6 outer pins up. 3. Push down the middle 6 pins as much as possible using a flat screwdriver, one at a time. 4. The middle 6 pins are all pushed down. 5. If you don't push them down, the final assembled module will be like this. A large gap between the module and the headers. 6. Cut down the middle 6 pins to about half length. You can use a 1.2mm PCB as a reference or just estimate how much to cut off. It does not have to be very accurate.WARNING: make sure to wear safety glasses or use a finger to prevent the cut-off piece flying. 7. After cut. 8. The middle 6 pins are shorter. 9. Then put the male headers over the module, you can see there are a lot of room to add solder. 10. If you don't cut them, the pins are too long and it's harder to solder them to the pads. 11. Plug two pin headers onto breadboard at 0.4" apart. Make sure it's 0.4" apart, not 0.5" apart. 12. Place the Mini T3.2 module over two male headers.Start soldering 2 pins, pin1 and pin13. Solder pins while pressing down the board. Once those 2 pins are soldered, check to make sure there is even gap width between the module and the male headers. If not, you still have a chance to correct it. See the picture below.Then solder all other remaining pins.Be careful when soldering as some pins are close to components, don't make solder bridges. 13. The side view of the above picture. There should be a very small gap between the module and the male headers. 14. After soldering all pins on the top side turn over the module. 15. Solder all 12 pins on the bottom side. 16. This is the final assembled module. The middle 6 pins on each side are a bit long, but it still can be plugged into a breadboard. So it's your choice to trim them or not. 17. The module is small and there is no room to put all pin names on the top. Without the pin names it's harder for breadboarding. you can make a 0.8mm PCB as a label sheet.

Just like the standard traffic light kits, but with four directions!People I know ask what would be a good project to learn how to code, I always said a traffic light. Eventually one of them asked me to help them set it up. It quickly became obvious that breadboarding a traffic light with more than just one direction gets very messy very quick and is hard to visualize since all the LEDs are pointing up. This board fixes that. Grab a board and the components, follow my tutorial for how to solder it together, and just plug it into your arduino / nodemcu / raspberryPi / whatever and get coding! Clean compact package, easy to see what's going on, and a neat little trinket to have running on your desk. Not to mention it could be used in a model train build or similar as well!There's a lot to be desired with the standard one way kits, they show you how to turn led's on in sequence, but wouldn't it be more exciting to figure out how to do that same thing but in four directions at the same time? This board controls 12 LEDs with only 7 pins making this a great tool to learn how multiplexing works. But, don't worry, it can be used the same as a one way light too, so the initial learning curve will be the same, but there is just so much more potential if you chose to explore.Board with recommended components is 3.3v and 5v compatible, reverse polarity safe, and durable enough to survive being in a box with the rest of your parts. I even have some example code available if you get stuck.I had a blast designing building and testing this, hopefully you will too. Message me on reddit.com at u/Simply_Convoluted if you need a hand or want a kit with all the parts included or even a fully assembled board.

In this project we made an amplifier using Hi-fi and popular LM3886 Gainclone Amplifier IC. Many of us wants to make Virtual 5.1 or 7.1 Music System with this ic, but due to a lot of wiring we made a design with expandable feature, This Circuit has inbuilt Zobel Network, ABOUT THE PERFORMANCE The LM3886 is a high performance audio power amplifier capable of delivering 68W of continuous average power to a 4 Ohms load and 38W into 8 Ohms Load with 0.1% THD+N from 20Hz - 20Khz.The performance of the LM3886, utilizing its self peak instandaneous TEMPRATURE ( SPIKE ) Protection Circuitry, Puts It in a class Above Discrete and hybrid amplifiers by providing an inherently, dynamically protected Safe Operating Area. SPIKE Protection means that these parts are completely Safegaurded at the output against OVERVOLTAGE, UNDERVOLTAGE, OVERLOADS, Including shorts to the supplies, thermal runaway, and instantenous temprature peaks, The LM3886 Maintains an excellent signal to noise ratio of greater than 92dB with a typical low noise floor of 2.0 uV. it exhibits extremely low THD+N Values of 0.03% at the rated output into the rated load over the audio spectrum, and provides excellent linearity with an IMD typical rating of 0.004%.FEATURES? 68W Continuous Average Output Power at 4 ohms at Vcc = ±28V? 38W Continuous Average Output Power at 8 ohms at Vcc = ±28V? 50W Continuous Average Output Power at 8 ohms at Vcc = ±35V? 135W Instant Peak Power Output Capability? Signal to noise ratio >92dB? Input Mute Function? Output Portection from short to ground or to the supplies via internal current limiting circuitry? Output Over Voltage Protection against Transients from Inductive Loads? Wide Supply Range 20V - 94V APPLICATIONS? Component Stereo? Compact Stereo? Self-powered speakers? Surround Sound Amplifiers? High End Stereo TVs? Studio Monitors? Active TowersBILL OF MATERIALSBILL OF MATERIALSRESISTORSQTY VALUE3X 22K ohms 1/4 Watts 2X 1K ohms 1/4 Watts2X 10 Ohms 1 WattsCAPACITORS2X 150nf 100V NON POLAR 3X 100nf 100V NON POLAR1X 220pf 100V Polyster1X 2.2uf 250V NON POLAR2X 470uf 63V Electrolytic2X 100uf 63V ElectrolyticICs1X LM3886TF GAINCLONE AMPLIFIER ICCONNECTORS2X 2 PIN SCREW TERMINAL BLOCK2X 3 PIN SCREW TERMINAL BLOCKRefer the tutorial VideoINDIAN XTREME AUDIOLink- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Icin6rnPTDs&t=698sProject Gerber, and pcb layout pdf is given in the videos Description.

Hey guys and how you doing!So this is the C3P0 PCB Badge or a Blinky Board which is based around 555 Timer IC.Original C3PO was Built by Anakin Skywalker, C-3PO was designed as a protocol droid intended to assist in etiquette, customs, and translation, but this version doesn't do any of the original tasks, it just blinksI made this setup as a soldering challenge kit, We solder all the SMD components with a soldering iron and the end result will be a complete Bi-Flasher working circuit which is themed after our beloved C3PO.Also, if you're interested in getting this kit for yourself, check out my Tindie page for more details.In this post, I'm gonna show you guys how you can solder this kit in a few easy steps along with a few soldering tips and tricks.Material requiredthese are the stuff that I used in this built555 Timer ICCoin Cell Holder SMD1206 LED x 2Custom PCB10K Resistor 0805 Package x 4M7 DiodeSwitch22uF 16V CapacitorCON2 Vertical header PinSoldering equipmentand patienceBasic info about the circuitBefore starting the soldering Process, Let first see the working schematic of this C3PO Badge.The main component here is the Mightly 555 timer ic which is set up in a Bi Flasher Mode. This means at the output Pin, two LEDs are connected in such a way that when a positive signal gets out of Pin 3 this will make LED 2 Glow and LED 1 will remain LOW, and when the positive signals don't get out of Pin 3 LED 2 will become LOW and LED1 will start glowingBi Flasher constantly turns Both LEDs ON and OFF by repetitive biasing of both LEDs through pin 3.The flashing rate can be controlled by changing the value of the capacitor connected between Pin 2 and GND. right now I'm using a 22uf 16V capacitor but if we use a 10uf capacitor, the flash rate will increase.I've used this same circuit in my previous Ghost badge Project which is also a soldering kit but a THT one, this version is an SMD soldering kit with almost all component SMD except for Switch, Cap, and CON2 Pin.Getting PCBs from PCBWAYAfter finalizing the PCB and checking it one last time, I exported its Gerber data.I used PCBWAY PCB Service for this project. I uploaded the Gerber file of this project on PCBWAY's quote page. For this C3PO badge, I went with yellow Soldermask and white silkscreen.After placing the order, I received the PCBs in a week and the PCB quality was pretty great, This shape is completely random so it's pretty hard to make but they did an awesome job of making this PCB with no error whatsoever.You guys can check out PCBWAY if you want Great PCB Service at an Affordable rate and low price.Soldering ProcessAfter getting the PCBs, I started the assembly process which includes adding SMD components first and then adding THT Components.We have to add timer ic and a few resistors on the backside first and then LEDs on the front side.Let's start with the backside first.First set up your soldering station with an Iron Tip Temp of 316°- 343°C.We start by adding solder to each component pad first, just on one side.Then we pick the component and place it in its place by heating the added solder.solder will melt and hold the component from one side, then we redo this process for all the components. the goal here is to temporarily hold the component from one side and later add more solder wire on the other side which will connect the components to the other pad and the soldering process will get completed.After placing each component, we use the solder wire to solder the other end of each component that hasn't been connected to the pad yet. this method of soldering SMD component is widely used and it's very easy to learn as well.for adding an SMD Coin Cell holder, the same method has to be used, we add solder to one pad, use that pad to hold the component in place, and then add solder to the other pad to hold the component in its place completely.now after soldering all the components on the bottom side, we start the LED soldering. Process for them is also the same, we add solder to one side first, we add the led through this side, and then do the same for the second led, then we add solder on the other side and LEDs will get connected with its pad perfectly.just make sure to connect LEDs in the right polarity, also because the LED outer body is made from plastic, avid heating the pads of LEDs for a very long interval, be quick while soldering or the led outer body will melt and it will get destroyed. These LEDs are made for the Reflow process, not the soldering iron process so it's better to not heat the plastic part for too long.Now we add the remaining THT components which are Switch and Capacitor.the switch will go into its THT Pad and the capacitor will be placed in its pad. be sure to check the polarity of the capacitor before placing it.at last, I added a vertical con2 pin to this badge which will let us connect this badge with external power via a breadboard.This was the soldering process and the badge is completedRESULTFor powering this badge, we have to add a CP2032 Lithium Coin cell in its holder and turn on the switch. Both LEDs will start flickering in a chasing sequence, the first led will glow and the second will stay low, then the second led will turn HIGH and the first led will turn LOW, and this process will get repeated over and over.This setup works exactly like my previous ghost badge project, in the ghost badge same circuit has been used but it contains a through-hole version.Check out Ghost Badge if you're interested in the THT Soldering.This is it for today folks, Leave a comment if you need any help.Peace out and have a nice day!Bye-bye

Please read the license!What is it?This is a reflashable game boy camera, it uses parts of an original camera but adds additional features like battery less saving with FRAM this essentially means that your pictures are safe almost forever, it also has 2MB of Flash split into 2 1MB sections, that means you can flash multiple ROMs to the camera, this includes multiple variations of camera roms like the Hello Kitty Camera Rom, Zelda Camera rom, a romhack or even certain games, and it can be reflashed with a GBxCart at any time.Why?Originally the project started as a small flex pcb to replace the MaskRom on a original cartridge to create a cheap reflashable camera, but because of space constraints that didn't really work out, the result ended up being an entirely new pcb, and at that stage, why not add FRAM (batteries suck), after over a year of working on the camera on and off (and a ton of support from people in the retro community), i feel like it's finally in a good enough place to release.OrderingWhen ordering please make sure you select the following options:Thickness - 0.8Solder Mask - AnySilkscreen - AnyEdge Connector - Optional, might be worth havingSurface Finish - ENIG (Do not order with HASL, the boards won't last)Leave other options unchanged.ImagesLinksGBxCart Software for reflashing the cameraGame Boy DiscordGame Boy Camera Club DiscordGame Boy Camera frame injectorGBxCartI do this in my spare time, if you want to support me please check out my ko-fi <3

The Standard Parallel Port (SPP) Adapter board allows to use the GPIO port of the "retro-board" 68k-MBC SBC (Single Board Computer) as a standard printer parallel port.In this way you can use a legacy parallel (Centronics) printer.To connect the SPP Adapter board to the GPIO connector of the 68k-MBC board you need a 10cm long 20 wires flat cable terminated with an IDC connector at both sides (pay attention to connect the cable in the right way on both sides, so the pin 1 on the 68k-MBC GPIO connector corresponds to the pin 1 on the SPP Adapter board GPIO connector).Please note that you have to power off the 68k-MBC board before connecting or disconnecting the SPP Adapter board to it.NOTE: before using the SPP Adapter board (A240721-R270921) you have to update both the IOS firmware and the SD image to the latest available version (see the FILES section of the main project page).In the following image the SPP Adapter board with the flat cable (connected to the GPIO connector of the 68k-MBC) and with the printer cable:The cable to use for the printer is the common parallel printer cable, with a DB-25 connector at one side and a Centronics connector at the other:HOW TO USE IT: THE SPP CP/M-68K UTILITYTo enable the SPP Adapter board under CP/M-68K I've added on the drive B: the custom utility SPP.68K (and the source SPP.BAS).You have to execute the SPP utility to enable the SPP Adapter board and "link" to it the LPT: CP/M device inside CP/M-68K.After the execution of the SPP utility the GPIO connector will be linked and reserved (the normal GPIO opcodes/functions inside IOS will be disabled) to the SPP parallel port until a system reset or reboot:After the execution of the SPP utility you need to link the LST: logical device to the LPT: device with the CP/M command STAT LST:=LPT:At this point you have a working printer parallel port on LST:, so if you give the Ctrl-P command all the console output will be echoed to the printer:HOW TO USE IT: GCC EXAMPLESI've added a couple of source examples in the SD image (/gcc-68k/workdir directory) to show how to use the SPP Adapter with the gcc cross compiler.The two source examples are getStatusSPP.c and writeTestSPP.c, and they are the ones I used for the first testing of the SSP Adapter board:NOTE: All the files, updates and the details to build it are in the 68k-MBC page here: https://hackaday.io/project/177988-68k-mbc-a-3-ics-68008-homebrew-computer/log/198836-spp-standard-parallel-port-adapter-board

Hello,This is a tested and working project.This Amiga scart cable connection PCB is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;)Amiga scart cable connection easy PCB is for making Amiga RGB Scart cable in an easy way. You will no longer need to follow confusing schematics with this PCB.I have prepared Amiga scart cable connection PCB to connect your amiga to your TV from RGB Scart input. In fact, you can make this cable using only connectors, cables and a few resistors. However, it will be easier and safer to make and use with this PCB.This PCB is made using the following two different common Amiga scart wiring diagrams.On the PCB; you need to short A to B or B to C (Both work with most TVs)Shorting A to B connects Scart pin 18 to amiga DB23F pin 20Shorting B to C connects Scart pin 18 to amiga DB23F pin 13Components:DB23 female connector (you can get aDB25 female connector and cut 2 pin part as DB23F)Male Scart connector.14 wire cable (about 2 meters)Stereo audio RCA cable (you can get a longer cable and cut it)75 ohm 1/4 watt resistance330 ohm 1/4 watt resistance1K ohm 1/4 watt resistanceThis PCBYou can connect the audio cable to this PCB or directly to the Scart Cable. If you connect the audio cable to this PCB, you must use at least a 14-wire cable for both RGB video and stereo audio. If you connect the audio cable to the scart connector (2 - 4 - 6 pins , 4 is GND), you must use at least an 11 wire cable.In order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Amiga before connecting or unconnecting the cabes or any other device.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Have funThank you.

A tiny microcontroller PCB based on ATtiny13A, 5xIOs, 3 of those IO connects to ADC. This board is perfect for all the small, simple project where an Arduino is overkill.Onboard 5V LDO has low quiescent current. If powered by battery, the LDO and LED can be omitted where possible, with the lowest power sleep setting this board will only draw 500nA.Programming has to be done via AVR ICSP interface. With limited FLASH and RAM Arduino bootloader isn't an option, therefore coding must be done in Microchip/Atmel studio.