This article is proudly sponsored by PCBWAY.PCBWAY make high quality prototyping PCBs for people all over the world. Try it for your self and get 10 PCBs for just $5 at PCBWAY with very great quality, Thanks PCBWAY. The Robadge#2 that I developed for use in this project uses PCBWAY PCB services. In this instructables, I will show you how to build Robadge#2 LED Blinking Robot Badge. Let's get started!Part List:1x Robadge#2 PCB2x NPN Transistor BC5273x LED 3mm2x C 100uF/16V2x R 100 ohm 1/4W or 1/6W2x R 10K ohm 1/4W or 1/6W1x Switch SPDT SS12D00G31x CR2032 Coin Battery1x CR2032 Coin Battery Holder1x Pin BackSchematics:The leg hole for the resistor on the PCB is designed for a size 1/6w resistor, but you can also use a size 1/4w resistor by bending the leg on one side then insert to PCB board as shown in the picture.You can insert other components such as Transistors, Capacitors and Switch following the sign on the PCB board.Insert the LEDs, ensuring the short legs are towards the centre of the board. Turn the board over and solder all legs components.?Using your cutters it’s time to snip the legs from the components. You should wear eye protection as the legs can fly off!Place the battery holder into the provided holes from back of PCB.Turn the board over again then solder the legs in place.Using your pliers hold the pin back onto the centre of the pad. Tin your soldering iron then hold the tip down with the pliers heat the pin back and hold the iron in place until you notice the solder flow to the edge.Insert the battery writing side facing out.Write the name you want, using permanent marker on the white area below the PCB.Slide the switch lever to the right ON position.Hopefully you enjoy your Robadge#1. If you do, please share your makes, share the link, like and subscribe Instructables & Youtube. As always, if you have any questions please let me know!https://www.pcbway.com/?from=bluinohttps://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/LED_Blinking_RoBadge_2___Basic_Soldering_Kit.html

As you can see in the video, I made a very simple LED light face mask that is not complicated. Of course, you can easily change these animations because we used a programmable LED strip in the mask. The design and animations of the face mask depend on your imagination. I just tried to show "how to do it?".Let's Get the LEDs Ready for the Face MaskI have an addressable LED. What that really means it's just that in a normal LED strip when you power it all the LEDs light up at the same time. But an addressable LED powers up based on what you input to it from a microcontroller and you can tell LED number one to light up in one color and LED number ten to light up in another color. Also I have is something copper tape. I'm gonna use that for the positive and the ground connections. Finally we're gonna need to mount all that onto this little piece of cardboard and later that will be inserted into the facemask. Because we need to be able to take out the LEDs otherwise we can't wash the facemask.The components required for the face mask are as follows:WS2812 5V LED Strip - http://bit.ly/2YoWKmhCopper Tape - http://bit.ly/36cDb5hFace Mask - http://bit.ly/3oktBDiWire Cable - http://bit.ly/3qRI3ofPlier - http://bit.ly/2Gbl6aqSoldering Tool Kit - http://bit.ly/2D6YbuCSolder Wire - http://bit.ly/36escZ0Place two strips of copper tape on the cardboard. One of the copper tape strips will be used to connect the positive legs of the LEDs and the other to connect the negative legs.Cut your LED strip from the connection points (make sure the number of LEDs according to your mask size).Place the LED strips you cut out on the cardboard. The most important point here is Din and Do points on the LED strip, the LED strip array should be placed as Din - Do, Din - Do. So if one end of the LED strip is Din, the other LED strip must be connected to the Do end for the signal to continue. Please see the video.After placing the LED strips, make the connections. The negative (GND) points of the LED strips must be common and the positive (5V) points must be common. Copper tape will make it easier for you to make these common connections.Finally, connect a jumper wire to each output to connect to the microcontroller.Tiny Microcontroller ATtiny85I will try to use an ATtiny85 board to control LED strips. Because I want the project to be minimal. In the prototype we will use sound sensor, ATtiny board, 9 volt battery and some wires.The components required for the prototype are as follows:ATtiny85- http://bit.ly/2YhUX2pSound Sensor - https://bit.ly/3fuZoP7Battery Connector - http://bit.ly/2M8PZCCJumper Wire - http://bit.ly/2pBD9BQSoldering Tool Kit - http://bit.ly/2D6YbuCThe necessary input-output pins we will use from the microcontroller:In this section, we will do the soldering process again. We will need to solder 2 jumper wires to the 5V output of the microcontroller to use it in the sound sensor and LED strips.Solder 3 jumper wires to GND output to use on sound sensor, LED strip and 9V battery.Solder 1 jumper wire to VIN input to use in battery.Solder a jumper wire to P1 and P2 pins that will be used for the sound sensor and LED strips.Now let's connect all the components:Connect the 5V input wire of the LED strip (red wire connected to the copper band) to the 5V wire on the microcontroller.Connect the GND input wire of the LED strip (black wire connected to the copper band) to the GND wire on the microcontroller.Connect the Din input wire of the LED strip (blue wire connected to the copper band) to the P1 wire on the microcontroller.Connect the 5V input of the sound sensor to the 5V output of the microcontroller.Connect the GND input of the sound sensor to the GND output of the microcontroller.Connect the IN of the sound sensor to the P2 output of the microcontroller.After uploading the source code, the battery VIN and GND connections will be made.Let's Make the Prototype Smaller and No WiresI also designed a PCB for this project. Because in the prototype we will use sound sensor, ATtiny85 board, 9 volt battery and some wires, but only one 3.7 volt li-po battery will be used with the PCB. I used Atmega329P microcontroller on the PCB, added 3 outputs for the LED strip. I added a tiny microphone to avoid using an external sound sensor. So you can think of the sound sensor as embedded.If you use the prototype, an extension wire will appear for the battery, but if you use the PCB, you can keep everything in a mask.Finally, one FTDI USB To TTL module is required to program the PCB.I have prepared a different source code for Atmega328, you can find the source code here:https://github.com/MertArduino/Making-a-Face-Mask-with-AnimationsSome necessary components for PCB:FTDI USB To TTL - http://bit.ly/2RL89stDigital Microscope - http://bit.ly/3iKHpWOHot Air Tool - http://bit.ly/2QFd1z0Soldering Tool Kit - http://bit.ly/2D6YbuCSolder Wire - http://bit.ly/36escZ0Tweezer - http://bit.ly/3og8sucSMD LED - http://bit.ly/2MqP3JTSMD Capacitor - http://bit.ly/39jqpDLSMD Resistor - http://bit.ly/3pm5YeWJST Connector - https://bit.ly/2yXfJeI3.7v Lipo Battery - http://bit.ly/2ECTdL7Programming the ATtiny85To use ATtiny85, we will need to follow some steps just once.Installation Instructions:First download the appropriate Arduino package at the Arduino.cc website: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/SoftwareIf using Arduino 1.6.6 or higher and windows - you will need to download and install the drivers manually. Download, unzip and run “Install Drivers” (on 32bit systems) or “DPInst64” (on 64bit systems). If you get stuck, try following the steps shown in this YouTube video. The driver files are located here: https://github.com/digistump/DigistumpArduino/releases/download/1.6.7/Digistump.Drivers.zipInstall or Unzip the Arduino application.Run the Arduino application.In the Arduino application go to the “File” menu and select “Preferences”In the box labeled “Additional Boards Manager URLs” enter: http://digistump.com/package_digistump_index.json and click OKNote: If you already have additional URLs entered in that box, then click the button on the right of the box and enter this URL on a new line.Go to the “Tools” menu and then the “Board” submenu - select “Boards Manager” and then from the type drop down select “Contributed”:Select the “Digistump AVR Boards” package and click the “Install” button.You'll see the download progress on the bottom bar of the “Boards Manager” window, when complete it will show “Installed” next to that item on the list.WINDOWS USERS: When complete the install with pop up a Driver Install Wizard window, please click “Next” on this Window to install the drivers for Digistump Boards (If you already have them installed, this installer will update them and install any that are missing)With the install complete, close the “Boards Manager” window and select the Digispark from the Tools→Boards menu. “Digispark (Default - 16.5mhz)” is the board that should be selected by all new users.The install is now complete!Get the Source code for ATtiny85:https://github.com/MertArduino/Making-a-Face-Mask-with-AnimationsUsing with the Arduino IDE:From the Tools menu select Board→Digispark (Default - 16.5Mhz)(The Tools→Programmer selection does not matter)Open your codeYou do not need to plug in your ATtiny85 before invoking uploadHit the upload button. The bottom status box will now ask you to plug in your ATtiny85 - at this point you need to plug it in - or unplug and replug it.You'll see the upload progress and then it will immediately run your code on the ATtiny85.If you unplug the ATtiny85 and plug it back in or attach it to another power source there will be a delay of 5 seconds before the code you programmed will run. This 5 second delay is the ATtiny85 checking to see if you are trying to program it.Pin outs:All pins can be used as Digital I/OPin 0 → I2C SDA, PWM (LED on Model B)Pin 1 → PWM (LED on Model A)Pin 2 → I2C SCK, Analog InPin 3 → Analog In (also used for USB+ when USB is in use)Pin 4 → PWM, Analog (also used for USB- when USB is in use)Pin 5 → Analog InProgramming the ATmega328Get the Source code for Atmega328:https://github.com/MertArduino/Making-a-Face-Mask-with-AnimationsConnect the FTDI USB To TTL module to the PCB.Then open the source code in Arduino IDE.Go to Board and select Arduino Pro or Pro MiniGo to Processor and select ATmega328P (3.3V, 8 MHz).Select Port and upload the code.LED Face Mask ReadyWe have completed the project, you can have a mask that reacts to the sound using the sound sensor, or you can make different light animations by not activating the sensor.If you encounter a problem, you can reach me from the links below:YouTube channel - https://bit.ly/MertArduinoInstagram - https://www.instagram.com/mertarduino/https://github.com/MertArduino/Making-a-Face-Mask-with-Animations

If you want to create an ESP32 based open source smartwatch, with a round display, this might be for you.

My wife sells jewelry at local markets. I wanted to create my own item to sell. Diffused glowing LEDs behind a PCB with no solder mask cutouts looks awesome. This project uses 2 PCBs, one for LEDs and circuitry and the other for the top that you see. The bottom PCB has the battery holder, circuitry, and LEDs. The 2 pieces are just hot glued together. I had less then a second to get them aligned together before it cooled too much. I created a 3D printed ?align tool to fix this. Takes a CR2450 Battery.https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5J65R1RqiVs

GRINTCH XMAS BADGEScary the cuddly? we don't know how to saythis is a PCB badge from the greenest cute Christmas monster.The leds under the eyes and details on the hat give all the charm to the project.

This project is for enthusiasts of Blender (a 3D modeling and design software) and PCBArts.Here you can see a video: https://twitter.com/akirasan/status/1336356743736156166?s=20

This PCB uses the NRF52832 MCU using of BLE from sensor reading using spi from 3 IMU sensors which are the BMI085, LSM6DSR & ADIS61355. Any of the sensors can be easily omitted

This low power WIFI button is built around the ESP07S-microcontroller. You an plugin an LIR2032-coincell and you're ready to go! Just click on one of the 5 buttons and it will perform one of the preprogrammed actions. It also has a WS2812B-LED builtin so it can blink in various colors after pressing the button. And the best thing is it's size! It's just 60mm in diameter! I'm currently working on the source code. After finishing it I'll upload it here. Stay tuned! If you have any questions feel free to ask me! :)

This article is proudly sponsored by PCBWAY.PCBWAY make high quality prototyping PCBs for people all over the world. Try it for your self and get 10 PCBs for just $5 at PCBWAY with very great quality, Thanks PCBWAY. The Robadge#1 that I developed for use in this project uses PCBWAY PCB services. In this instructables, I will show you how to build Robadge#1 LED Blinking Robot Badge. Let's get started!?The leg hole for the resistor on the PCB is designed for a size 1/6w resistor, but you can also use a size 1/4w resistor by bending the leg on one side then insert to PCB board as shown in the picture.You can insert other components such as Transistors, Capacitors and Switch following the sign on the PCB board.Insert the LEDs, ensuring the short legs are towards the centre of the board. Turn the board over and solder all legs components.?Using your cutters it’s time to snip the legs from the components. You should wear eye protection as the legs can fly off!Place the battery holder into the provided holes from back of PCB.Turn the board over again then solder the legs in place.Using your pliers hold the pin back onto the centre of the pad. Tin your soldering iron then hold the tip down with the pliers heat the pin back and hold the iron in place until you notice the solder flow to the edge.?Insert the battery writing side facing out.Write the name you want, using permanent marker on the white area below the PCB.Slide the switch lever to the right ON position.?Hopefully you enjoy your Robadge#1. If you do, please share your makes, share the link, like and subscribe Instructables & Youtube. As always, if you have any questions please let me know!https://www.pcbway.com/?from=bluino

I wanted to make some Neopixel light bars for the grand kids but didn't want to mess with proto boards so I figured I'd try to get a circuit board made. After trying several horrible programs recommended on the internet I finally got one to work(I have since found a great one). While laying out the project I figured that by adding a few more pads I could bring out all the pins from the ATTiny and use the same board for many projects. I ended up ordering 15 panels with 84 boards per panel, because they were so cheap, so now I have more than I will ever use at about 9 cents each. As you can see in the last picture that they worked for the project I originally wanted to make and I am working on more ways to use these little gems.

This protection board protects your Lipo or Li-Ion-cell. it is based on the DW01A battery protection IC and the FS8205A dual-mosfet. this tiny PCB will protect your Lipo or Li-Ion-cell from overcharge, overdischarge, overcurrent, short circuit. I hope this PCB is helpful or at least interesting for you. If you have any questions feel free to ask me! :)

While working on a Neopixels project for the grand kids I came up with this design to hold an ATTiny85 and power spike capacitor with places to solder either headers or wires for the power in and any output pins for the Neopixels. I was just going to solder everything up on a breadboard but decided to try my hand at custom pcb design since the price has dropped so much since I last did anything like this. Once I got it designed I realized you could use it for just about any simple ATTiny project and decided to share it. Hope you find it useful.

I this tutorial, you will learn how to make a Social Distancing Project based on the Arduino Nano and HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Sensor. When the distance is less than or equal to 3 feet the LED module is automatically turned ON, and when the distance is greater than 3 feet than the LED module is turned OFF. You can increase the distance as per your requirement by simply changing the preset value. Read complete article:https://www.electroniclinic.com/social-distancing-project-using-arduino-ultrasonic-sensor-and-leds/Watch video tutorial:https://youtu.be/IE1IQ1SJmHc

How to make the wearable activity tracking watch? This is a wearable gadget designed to vibrate when it detects stagnation. Do you spend most of your time on the computer like me? Are you sitting for hours without realizing it? This is what inspired the Vibrating Watch, a simple activity tracker that will notify you when you are inactive for a pre-set period of time.In this project, we'll build a wearable gadget designed to vibrate when it detects stagnation. This device is low-cost and can help keep you on the move.About the SchematicThe heart of this project is the ATtiny85. This microcontoller can be programmed with the Arduino IDE and is easy to fit into projects to keep cost and size down. With three analog inputs and two PWM outputs, the ATtiny85 has just enough I/O for this project. For our activity sensing needs, I am using the MMA7341LC 3-axis accelerometer which outputs each axis on a different analog line. This accelerometer also has a sleep mode that can be activated by the microcontroller to improve battery life. Our activity reminder will come through a vibration motor which, despite its small size is powerful enough.ATtiny85 IC - https://bit.ly/3g7yVXJVibration Motor - https://bit.ly/3f9h5C43-Axis Accelerometer - https://bit.ly/309kbSBBattery Holder - https://bit.ly/2BBnmZC8 Pin Socket - https://bit.ly/339tQtYSlide Switch - https://bit.ly/30SPrnPResistor - https://bit.ly/2WFsNPlStrap - https://bit.ly/3g8GhKjCR2032 BatterySoldering Tools - http://bit.ly/2Kbr9hQProgramming an ATtiny85 with an Arduino UNOConfiguring Arduino Uno as a ISP (In-System Programming):To program the ATtiny85 we need to first set Arduino Uno in ISP mode. Connect your Arduino Uno to the PC. Open Arduino IDE and open the ArduinoISP example file (File - Examples - ArduinoISP) and upload it.Adding ATtiny85 Support to Arduino IDE:By default Arduino IDE doesn't support ATtiny85 so we should add ATtiny boards to Arduino IDE. Open File - Preferences and in the Additional Boards Manager URLs give this URL: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/damellis/attiny/ide-1.6.x-boards-manager/package_damellis_attiny_index.jsonOpen Tools - Board - Board Manager. Scroll down the list where it says "ATtiny by Davis A. Mellis". Click on that and install it. Now you would be able to see a new entry in the Board menuConnecting ATtiny85 with Arduino Uno:Now with all the above things ready we will start programming the ATtiny85. Connect the ATtiny85 to Arduino Uno using breadboard.Add a 10uF capacitor between RESET and GND in the Arduino Uno. This is to avoid the Arduino Uno from being auto reset when we upload the program to the ATtiny85.Burn Bootloader and Uploading Source Code to the ATtiny85Now back to the Arduino IDE. Select ATtiny under Tools - Board. Then select ATtiny85 under Tools - Processor. Select 8 MHz (internal) under Tools - Clock.Then make sure Arduino as ISP is selected under Tools - ProgrammerBy default the ATtiny85 runs at 1MHz. To make it to run at 8MHz select Tools - Burn Bootloader.You will get the above message if burning bootloader was successful.Now open the source code and upload it.Get the Source Code from GitHub:About the Program:The source code is to notify the wearer if a predefined timer has run out. The source code reads the accelerometer output signals, compares them to a threshold, and resets the timer if the threshold is exceeded.The program is asleep for the majority of the time but wakes up once every minute to monitor the accelerometer. While monitoring the accelerometer the program checks the acceleration values once a second for 5 seconds.The acceleration values are compared to a pre-set activity threshold. If they exceed this threshold the activity timer is reset. When the activity timer expires, the vibration motor is activated to prompt the user to be more active.About the MMA7341LC 3-Axis Accelerometer:https://www.pololu.com/product/1247

I designed this patch antenna for fpv googles, the gain is about 5dbi. It's a very little antenna with good performance