Hey everyone what's up!So this is my Micro Fighter Bot or Micro Robot V2 which is an easy-to-make Micro Robot that is powered by an Arduino Nano board and L293D Motor driver IC.I'm using a Bluetooth Based Mobile terminal app which is available on the google play store to control this robot. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.giumig.apps.bluetoothserialmonitorYes, I'm using Bluetooth here, the good old HC01 module.IDEA Behind RobotThe goal for making is Robot was to make a small robot platform that I could use in my next project which is a fighting bot duo. basically, I want to prepare a small but fast Robot that can fight other small robots, not fight to the death but a normal sumo fighting kinda thing.Previously, I have made a similar Micro RObot which only had 2 wheels, the problem with that BOT was stability.also, it can not navigate well over obstacles, such as rocky terrain, sharp declines, or areas with low friction.To improve this, I prepared this Robot which had 4 wheels so it had a sturdy frame with the center of gravity at the centermost part of the robot as this would help in taking sharp turns at high speed.I designed this robot in Fusion360 First, the idea here was to make a base that will be used to screw motor mounts from the bottom side of the Base, and with 3 pillars, a PCB can be mounted on it. In between the PCB and Base, a Li-ion battery is placed.So this was the plan.Materials Required3D Printed Parts-Base x 1Motor Mount x 4Front Shield x 1Pillars x 3ComponentsL293D Motor Driver ICArduino NANOCustom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)Micro Gear DC MotorFemale Header PinsDC Barrel JackAMS11174.7uf Cap 1206 Package22uf Cap 1206 PackageSMD LED 0603 Package1K Resistance 0603 PackageHC01 ModuleBattery JST ConnectorPCB DesignThe first step for making a PCB Project is to make a schematic that will have all the components that we need to run our project.I Prepared a simple setup that consists of an Arduino Nano connected with the L293D Motor driver IC in its proper configuration, HC01 is also connected with the Arduino Nano.I've used a 12V 2.6A Battery in this setup, It's not recommended to add 12V directly with Arduino's VIN port so I added AMS1117 to step down this 12V into 3.3V for Arduino and HC01 to run without any issue.Here's the schematic that I prepared!After finalizing this Schematic, I then Imported its netlist and converted this into a PCB Design.As for the PCB Outline, I used the reference dimensions from the fusion360 Model and then made the PCB based on it.I exported the Gerber data and then send it to PCBWay for samples.PCBWAY ReviewAfter sending the PCBs for manufacturing, it only took 7 days to get delivered.The PCBs that I had received were nice as expected!PCBWay you guys rock!Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service at less cost!Note-Before starting the assembly process, here's a quick fact. I'm using an HC01 module which is pretty hard to find, you could easily Find its breakout board on the internet but these modules are not exactly easy to obtain.also, they cost a lot so what I did was, I took one of my HC05 modules and place it on my reflow hotplate and remove the HC01 module from its Breakout board.PCB AssemblyAfter Receiving the PCB, all that was left to do was to apply solder paste to each component pad.1. Solder paste DispencingI used a normal Sn-Pb solder paste which has a melting temp from 140 to 270 °CThe solder paste Dispencing method is relatively easy, we apply a little amount of solder paste to each components pad one by one which will take time.After Adding solder paste, we need to do the "PICK and place Process"2. PICK and Place ProcessI then used an ESD Tweezer to carefully pick and place each component on their assigned place one by one which took like 3 mins top but end result was a perfect PCB with all the components place in their place in the right orientation.3. HOTPLATE REFLOWAfter the "PICK and Place Process", I carefully lifted the whole circuit board and place it on my DIY SMT Hotplate which is also homemade just like this project.After Few mins when the hotplate reaches the Solderpaste melting TEMP, all the components will get soldered by this Hot Reflow process.4. THT ComponentsNow we have to add THT Components which are Header pins, DC Jack, L293D IC, and Battery JST Connector.I just use a regular solder iron for this Job.at last, we put the Arduino Nano on the header pin.As you can see right here, I have added jumper pins on the PCB, these are connected in series with TX and RX.You see, if we add RX and TX of Arduino with HC01 on the PCB directly without any Breakout point, we will not able to program the Arduino nano because of the UART Error.I've added these two header pins on PCB so I can short them and by this HC01 will communicate with the Arduino Nano, when we have to program the Arduino Nano, we only have to remove two jumpers from these header pins.You could also remove the Arduino Nano and program it with the sketch and then put it back on the PCB, this method will work but it's too much work for me so I prefer to use header pins instead.Anyways, after doing this our PCB is finally ready. But we still have to check if the Circuit is working or not.Testing the Circuit!For Testing this board, I will use two things basically, first, I will use this battery which is a Li-ion battery pack 12V, I have a BMS on it so we don't have to worry about it many things related to its battery protection.we first add the battery onto our PCB with the JST connect in the right polarity.then we turn on the switch and our Arduino nano along with HC01 are working.HC05 LED is blinking and LED is Glowing in Arduino nano, this means that both of these modules are working without any problem.Next, I added a 12V 5A SMPS on the DC Barrel jack, this is for charging the onboard battery pack. LED on the DC Jack side is glowing which means everything is nice and dandy.now, at last, I took out my phone and paired it with the HC01 Module.then I opened a Bluetooth terminal app in my phone and connected the HC01 with it. as soon as it gets connected, The LED Stopped its frequent blinking sequence which is a sign that the module is now connected with the device.So our PCB has now qualified its testing process and now we will prepare the 3D Printed Base Body which will hold the PCB and other stuff.3D Printed Parts and Body assemblyhere's this lower base that is holding four DC motors with a motor mounting bracket from the bottom side.Then three pillars are on the opposite side, these pillars will be used to mount PCB and Base together.In between PCB and Base, a Li-ion battery is placed so it is all a compact setup that holds everything together nicely.As for the material for these 3D Printed Parts, I'm going with the transparent PLA and Transparent yellow PLA which kinda look like the golden color but it's not.After adding everything together, I then added the battery in the middle part and connected its terminal with the JST connector.then I added wires to the motor and PCB in this orderCODEint motorLpin1 = 2; int motorLpin2 = 3; int motorRpin1 = 4; int motorRpin2 = 5; int rightMotorENA = 10; int leftMotorENB = 11; int motorSpeed = 200; int turn=50; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); Serial.flush(); pinMode(motorLpin1,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorLpin2,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorRpin1,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorRpin2,OUTPUT); pinMode(rightMotorENA,OUTPUT); pinMode(leftMotorENB,OUTPUT); } void loop(){ String input=""; while(Serial.available()){ input+=(char)Serial.read(); delay(5); } if(input=="S"){ MotorStop(); } else if(input=="F"){ MotorForward(); } else if(input=="R"){ MotorBackward(); } else if(input.indexOf("TR")>-1){ MotorLeft(); } else if(input.indexOf("TL")>-1){ MotorRight(); } else if(input.indexOf("SQ")>-1){ SQUARE(); } } void MotorForward(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,200); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,200); } void MotorBackward(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,HIGH); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,200); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,200); } void MotorLeft(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,HIGH); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,50); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,50); } void MotorRight(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,50); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,50); } void MotorStop(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(leftMotorENB,LOW); digitalWrite(rightMotorENA,LOW); } void SQUARE(void) { } The uploading process is pretty easy and simple, we first remove the jumpers from the HC01 Header pins and then connect the Arduino nano with our computer and fash the Bot with Arduino IDE and that is pretty much the uploading process!Code is pretty simple and you could alter it according to your needs or requirements.(Do not forget to add jumper after the flashing process back in their place)Our MicroBot is ready for its first RUN!APPNow, the previous version was controller by a blynk app but I'm not using ESP32 or ESP8266 in this project. We required a Bluetooth terminal app here.I'm using this Bluetooth controller app that you can download from the google play store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.giumig.apps.bluetoothserialmonitorOpen this app and pair your HC01 with it, after that open its controller mode and assign the Buttons their value which is in our case these.TL for Turn LeftTR for Turn rightF for ForwardR for ReverseS for StopNow we just press any button to control this robot!RESULT/TEST RUNConclusion and ImprovementAs you can see, our robot is working! and it's pretty fast which was my goal, to make it as fast and sturdy as possible.Now, this setup works like a development platform, a micro fighter platform.the idea here is to make multiple of these roots and let them do fighting and stuff. also, we have to add few gimmicks in these bots like normal weapons shield armor, and stuff.This project is completely open-source so if anyone here wants to make one of these robots then all the documents are attached.Comment/DM if you need any more help.If Project was fun then do hit that like button!Thanks, PCBWAY for providing PCBs for this project,Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service for less price.and I'll see you guys with the next Project!

Hey everyone What's up!So this is HEX Lightwhich is a DIY Studio Lighting Setup that consists of a total of 72 High Power Cree LEDs and they are powered by a 12V 5A SMPS. LEDs are driven by two separate LED Driver ICs and this whole setup cost less than 100$ to make which is still cheaper than other similar size studio light available in the market.Also, huge thanks to PCBWay for Supporting this project, Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at a relatively less cost.Question, why did I make this huge studio light?Well, the answer here is pretty simple, I required a proper lighting setup for my current maker setup and all I have were few LED Strips and a small studio lightbox that I recently made, they all were functional but not exactly great.The main goal here was to increase the lighting setup by not spending much on commercially available lights and make my own version of this studio light with aluminum extrusion and 3D Printed PartsMaterial Required These are the things that we need in our builtLEDs JK3030 Cree1.5 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package0.47 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package100uf Capacitor63uH IndictorSS34 Diode SMADC Barrel JackCustom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)Custom 3D Printed bodySIC9301A led driver ICAluminum Square Pipe/Extrusion12V SMPS Power SupplyBasic StructureA few weeks ago, I made this small yet powerful Studio Light Box, In that setup, I used SIC9301A LED Driver IC to driver 3V Cree LEDs.Studio Light Box Project was pretty handy and useful but it was not enough to illuminate the entire room, that is because of its number of LEDs. I required more LUX which can be acquired by adding more LEDs.But more LEDs mean more heat generation, so I prepared an Aluminum Extrusion based Light this time which is modeled in a HEXAGON Shape.I first prepared the Basic Structure in Fusion360 by measuring the Aluminum channel first and then creating its Support Bushes that will hold two channels at an internal angle of 120 Degree. After that, I placed 6 PCBs on each Hexagon side and use its measurement to make a custom PCB in the PCB Designing suite.PCB Designing and OrderingTo make any PCB, we first need to think about what we want to put in that PCB.In my case, I required 12 LEDs which are arranged in 3S 4P Config. To drive those LEDs, I needed a constant LED Driver IC and to power this whole setup, I required a DC Jack or a battery connector.After this planning, I started making the schematic of the main board then we Import the Netlist of our schematic to convert this it a PCB File.All PCB Designing suit works differently but this is a universal step, we first make a schematic, then assign each component their footprint and then convert the SCHEMATIC file into a Board File.After completing the board, I then exported the Gerber data for PCB and send it to PCBWay for samples.I received the PCBs in a week and they were mind-blowing. PCB Quality was pretty great and I just loved it, PCBWay, you guys rock!Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at Less cost- The next Process is the PCB Assembly PCB AssemblyThe First step of the PCB Assembly is to add solder paste to each component one by one.Then we gather everything we need (which are LEDs) and place them in the right order one by one.Then we Carefully lift the PCB and put that on a Reflow Hotplate, the Hotplate will heat the PCB from Below and the solder paste will melt as soon as the hotplate temp reaches the solder paste melting temp.Few LEDs were shorted so one end of the tweezer, we need to move the led back and forth, by doing this, the solder paste between two pads will clear up and the shorting will not occur.After this, I carefully removed the PCB from the Hotplate and check the PCB by supplying 12V to its VCC Pads.Now, we required a total of 6 LED PCBs and two LED Driver Boards.LED Driver board assembly process is also the same, I first added solder paste to each component pad and then added the components to it.then I added it on the hotplate and let the solder paste melt and that was pretty much it.Body AssemblyThe main Component here is the aluminum Square pipe or aluminum extrusion which I bought from a Hardware store and the 3D Printed Parts that I model in Fusion 360 which holds two aluminum Pipes at an internal angle of 120°.I first marked and cut down 6 Pieces of aluminum pipe each of 230mm with a hex saw blade.after trimming their edges, I used the 3D Printed Bush to mark both sides of every Square pipe.Then I drill holes in each aluminum pipe with a 4mm Drill Bit.I had to do this same process for all the aluminum pipes, which really took time but after this hard work, I put everything together.Now we add M4 nuts and bolts to each side of the square pipe to tightly secure the Square pipe and 3D Printed part together.At last, I added the seventh pipe which will hold this structure.Also, I bought a cheap but great tripod to serve as a Hexlight base.I added HexLight on this tripod with the Tripod Mount (all the parts are attached including the Fusion360 File, Check them out for reference)Anyways, after making sure that everything is fine and dandy, I reassembled the Seventh Square Pipe so I could put LED PCBs on it.LED PCB & DRIVER ASSEMBLYwe start first by adding the LED PCB to each side of the Hexagon structure and making its Mounting holes.after marking a total of 12 holes, I used a 2mm drill to drill holes in all 12 holes. this took a while but after this, I used two 2.5mm Screws to tightly secure each of these LEDs with the aluminum pipe.You could add thermal grease or thermal compound in between the PCB to improve the heat flow rate but I didn't have any of them so I just screwed everything together. Now the LED DrIver PCBs will be mounted on the seventh pipe in this arrangement. both of them will be mounted sideways.To mount them, I used the same screws but I put these two washers in between the PCB and aluminum pipe surface to lift the PCB a little bit so it won't short on the aluminum surface.After putting them on the Square pipe, I then reattached it with the main body and then secure everything together with M4 screws nicely.WiringBy following the above wiring, I hook everything together.This Light comprises two halves, one side contains 3 PCBs each 12 LEDs so around 36 LEDs on one side and 36 on the other. 3 LED PCBs are connected in parallel and then one LED Driver Board is used to drive these three PCBs.POWER SOURCE/Final TweakFor Powering this setup, I used a 12V 5A SMPS Mighty power supply.To Toggle both segments individually, I have added a switch to each LED Driver Board so we can just Turn ON or OFF any two Light halves.After Wiring, I added the whole light back on the tripod with its mounting bracket, and our HexLight Setup is completed!Let's see few final shots of the Hex Light Setup now!FINAL RESULT and Additional Feature for a Future EditionSee how the lighting drastically improves when I turned on the Hexlight Setup to illuminate my table?Right Now, this setup doesn't have any brightness control setting which will let us increase or decrease the light intensity by the touch of a button.I will be adding this in the next version, Nothing really has to be changed for this feature, I will add a Mosfet as a Switch setup which will decrease/Increase the Light by PWM Dimming. But This is it, for now, leave a comment if you need any help with this project.Peace Out!

Hey guys and welcome backThis is my DIY Security Cam which is made from an ESP32 connected with a 5V Charger circuit that converts 240V AC into 5V DC for ESP32 to run.The goal for making this project was to make a cheaper alternative to the existing WIFI Security Camera.Also, huge thanks to PCBWay for Supporting this project, Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at a relatively less cost.Getting StartedNow, a few weeks ago I a post about the ESP32 CAM which you can check out,https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/esp32-cam-web-server-and-getting-started-guide-f1a04aIn that post, we learn how to control the ESP32 CAM and flash it with a UART Module.Flashing this esp32 is a pretty easy process, we first connect the module in the right writing order and then connect this with Arduino IDE and follow some basic guidelines like we need to press the Reset button once while uploading the sketch and our esp32 cam will flash like a normal esp32.Here we have an ESP32 that contains the CAM webserver sketch that enables us to connect this it with the internet and see the live camera footage.doesn't that sound like a security camera?yes it does, the wifi security cam do exactly this but they provide more features that are mostly software-based so what I'm gonna do here is, I will provide this esp32 power with a charger circuit, I will use a custom PCB in this project which will contain the esp32 and charger circuit and then I will put that custom PCB in a 3D Printed enclosure.this is the planwell, it will work electronically but I'm not pretty sure that the PLA can withstand being outside for this kind of project.CircuitryAnyways, to get started with this project, I first designed a charger circuit by replicating and reverse engineering an existing 5V 1A Charger circuit that I found in an existing commercial mobile phone charger.Now, this project involves working with the AC supply which is pretty lethal so I don't recommend you guys to replicate this project as I did, instead of making an SMPS CIrcuit, you can use an isolated power supply module to power this board. it's still dangerous but it will decrease the chances of getting elecuted by this project.To use the isolated power supply, I have already added its Pads on the PCB so we can just solder this onto the circuit or use an extremely dangerous non-isolated charger circuit.I designed this whole project in my OrCAD software, I wanted to add a custom silkscreen to this board so I prepared this image in GIMP and then exported the PNG image.then I converted the PNG file into a BMP (because the OrCAD only imports BMP Images) and then added this image onto my PCB design and this was the result!note- this method will be different for every PCB Designing suit so just follow your PCB Cad software image importing process and you'll be good.Getting PCB Made from PCBWayAfter finalizing the PCB, I exported its Gerber data ad send that to PCBWay for samples,I received the PCBs in a week, PCB quilty was pretty great and I'm happy with it.PCBWay you guys rock, Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at less cost!Assembly ProcessAfter receiving the PCBs, I started the assembly process of this board.We first add solder paste to each component's pad one by one. (a better alternative is to use a stencil which I didn't get because I'm such a genius ??)After this, I added components to their assigned place one by one in the right order and then after doing that, I verify the board one last time, and then I put the whole circuit onto my DIY SMT Hotplate for the reflow process.Solder paste will melt as soon as the reflow surface hit the solder paste melting temp and then we carefully remove the PCB from the hotplate and let it cool down for a little bit.after checking the PCB solder joints and making sure that we didn't short any components, we then move on to the next step which is to add THT components like the capacitors, fuse, MOV, and transformer.After adding these components, I added a female header pin to connect esp32 with this board, and our circuit is finally ready for its first test.but before that, I added the circuit on ts 3D Printed body and then added an AC Cord to the input of the PCB to supply 240V AC to this setup.Flashing ESP32 CAM Quick LookCheck out the previous Post for a full walkthrough. https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/esp32-cam-web-server-and-getting-started-guide-f1a04aESP32 CAM doesn't have an onboard programming chip which is a bummer, because of this we have to add an external USB to the Serial Programming module.For That, I will be using an FTDI USB to Serial module.Follow the following Wiring arrangement to hook FTDI Module with ESP32 CAM.Set FTDI output to 5VConnect the FTDI's VCC (which is 5V) to 5V of ESP32 CAMGND to GNDRX to U0TTX to U0RGPIO0 which is IO0 to GND (this will put the ESP32 CAM in Flash Mode)Before Flashing Process, you need to change few things in the example sketch.Go to Example> ESP32> Camera and open the CameraWebServer sketchInput your SSID and passwordChange the camera module from #define CAMERA_MODEL_WROVER_KIT to #define CAMERA_MODEL_AI_THINKERNow,Go to Tools and select the right board which is in our case AI-Thinker ESP32-CAM.Select the right port and hit upload.Now, when the ESP32 Starts its uploading process you will see the connecting message with dots and dashes. press the reset button on the bottom side of the board when dots and dashes start.If you have encountered an error during this setup that says unable to connect, this means your timing was not good, try again and when the first dot appears in the debugging menu, long-press the reset button for at least 1 second. After few seconds, your sketch will be uploaded.now plug out the USB from FTDI Module and remove the jumper between GPIO0 and GND.plug in the USB and open up the serial monitor.ESP32 will get connected with WIFI (which would take 1min) and you will see the IP address of the ESP32 CAM.3D Printed EnclosureI prepared its body in fusion 360 and then 3D Printed it with PLA, yes I know, I should've used a better material that can withstand the outside heat as PLA will start deforming at 160°C, and here at my place, the outside temp is around 35-40 outside so the PLA might melt and that's one flaw.well, that's a gamble that I took so maybe it will not melt, we will see how that goes.I've already flashed the ESP32 with the ESP32 CAM webserver sketch and I already have its IP address. https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/esp32-cam-web-server-and-getting-started-guide-f1a04aso we just need to make sure first that the ESP32 is fed with a 5V supply and for that, I checked the Voltage on ESP32's VCC and GND Port.Now, at last, I added this acrylic transparent sheet on the first side of the enclosure with screws and hot glue, hot glue will create a gasket in between the acrylic transparent sheet and 3D Printed Body which will hopefully protect the inside from moisture content.RESULTAfter finalizing this whole project, I placed oy outside my room and plugged the AC Supply into it.To monitor the live feed, we can just go to the ESP32 CAM IP address and view the live feed.And that is how you can save so many bucks or rupees in my case by not purchase an actual security cam and DIY this whole thing for less than 15$ or 1100 Rupees.Leave a comment if you need any help with this project!

This is a standalone board for the "EnragedRabbitCarrotFeeder" compatible with the firmware Klipper. Instead of routing cables from your main MCU up to your ERCF unit, this extension board can be use close to your ERCF unit.Adds 2 steppers, 1 servo powered by a 5V regulator and 3 endstops / sensors to your 3D printer.Instructions and BOM : https://github.com/Tircown/ERCF-easy-brdMore informations on the EnragedRabbitProject : https://github.com/EtteGit/EnragedRabbitProject

this is a breakout board for the voron afterburner toolhead

arduino nano short and better for the use in robotics and sensors

Currently, we are chasing an invisible monster named Corona Virus ( COVID-19 ) and we are going through the biggest health crisis in our time due to a sharp increase in infection cases. One of the main symptoms of the COVID-19 infected person is an increase in body temperature, in addition to other symptoms such as pain in the body, difficulty in breathing.It is very essential to monitor continuously the body temperature to detect a corona patient at a very early stage so that proper medication may be taken for fast recovery.The normal IR thermometer can measure the temperature of a covid patient and also may spread the virus. The main drawback of the handheld thermometer is its performance depends on the operator and the distance to the forehead. To address these problems, a device is made that can be mounted on the wall for fever screening in public areas without an operator. The hardware can measure human body temperature automatically when the distance between the sensor and forehead is adequate.Credit :The main source of inspiration for this project is from the project iThermowall, I will give full credit to the authors of this project.I thought this project is very useful in this critical time and I can use my skill to write a DIY guide by including precise instruction and good pictures for illustration so that anyone can recreate it easily.The full project documentation is available on my website: https://www.opengreenenergy.com/diy-non-contact-thermometer/

NanoSaur is an open-source project designed and made by Raffaello Bonghi.NanoSaur is a fully 3D printable robot, made to work on your desk, use a simple camera and use 2 OLED like eyes. The size is only 10x12x6cm in only 500g and with a simple power-bank can wandering your desktop autonomously.It’s a little robot for robotics & AI education.To build the robot follow the website: https://nanosaur.ai/

This is a Raspberry Pi "hat" that houses and powers a CPU cooling fan and an ESP8266 ESP-12E NodeMCU/Arduino microcontroller.This PCB is used in ostmoxy's printerX to provide a Wireless Access Point that enables users to configure their 3D printer's web server. This board can be used for any situation in which you need for a Raspberry Pi and an ESP8266 ESP-12E microcontroller to communicate serially. You'll be on your own for case design - we've got ours buried in our 3D printers!Some details:The Raspberry Pi provides power to the fan and microcontroller.The Raspberry Pi and microcontroller have their RX and TX pins connected so that they can communicate serially without connecting a USB cable.The Raspberry Pi and microcontroller share a common ground.Option to power the Raspberry Pi CPU fan with either 3.3V or 5V leads.Requires:A 2x20 (40-pin) female header strip, 2.54mm pitch (plug into Raspberry Pi GPIO pins)A 2-pin male header, 2.54 mm pitch (connect fan power)A 30mm CPU cooling fan for Raspberry Pi (3.3V or 5V - cools Raspberry Pi CPU)An ESP8266 ESP-12EMore details will become available at https://ostmoxy.com when our 3D printers become available.Source code that we use for the microcontroller and Raspberry Pi is available here: https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/printerx/tree/master/WAP

Full article and specs on my site www.mischianti.orgESP32-wroom-32, esp32-S: flash, pinout, specs and IDE configurationI will use esp32-wroom-32, but first I want to prototype my project on breadboard, the IC is not suitable for breadboard, so I go to make a 3D printed adapter and PCB to get a generic programming board.You can find the esp32-wroom-32 and esp32-s on AliExpress ESP32 Dev Kit v1 - AliExpress selectable - AliExpress TTGO T-Display 1.14 ESP32 - AliExpress NodeMCU V3 V2 ESP8266 Lolin32 - AliExpress WeMos Lolin32 CP2104 CH340 - AliExpress ESP32-CAM - AliExpress ESP32-WROOM-32 - AliExpress ESP32-SESP32 programming board Aliexpress adapter esp8266 esp323D printed adapterA good and fast solution is to print one adapeter. Exists a lot of adapter, but I think this is a good choice, you must print with reduced extruder size like 0.31 and reduce the flow to get a good print.Now you must add the wire, but first probably your printer generate waste and close the little hole, usually I’m going to drill It to clear with 0.9mm bit of my CNC.CNC drill bits on AliExpressI use a telephone wire that is a single copper wire with 0.6mm of diameter, and I’m going to insert in the adapter.Insert it into the innermost holes and push it out about 3mmesp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 01esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 02Bend the wire to the external of the adapter.esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 03esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 04Cut external part of the wire, and extract,esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 05then reinsert in the internal and external hole.esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 06Now check if you need to cut more the wire of the internal hole, and bend It.esp32 wroom 32 socket wiring step 07Repeat for all pins.esp32 wroom 32 socket breadboard friendlyesp32 wroom 32 socket breadboard friendly bottomNow you can use It directly on the breadboard.esp32-wroom-32 socket programming flash breadboard photoProgramming board PCBThe next step is to do a PCB instead the breadboard to program the device, I’m going to use the adapter only to create/test new circuit.ESP32 wroom 32 S programming board pcbHere the list of component:Shopping ListBased on the tutorial “ESP32-wroom-32: flash, pinout, specs and IDE configuration” I create a PCB.

I'm working on a series of animated objects for a children's play and decided to build a Zoetrope, to bring some magic to a very emotional moment in the play. I had already made a praxinoscope, using a pizza box and some acrylic mirrors. And that helped me to be a little more aware about the huge work with animation. It was very interesting to realize that at each step of this process it is as if we were going back a few years in time. Although I didn't list them as important in the project's bill of materials, it's worth mentioning that I used several free software and online platforms for my tasks.From Youtube to CardboardFor the show, it was necessary to find a way to remove the characters from the paper disc and put them on their feet, as if they were other actors in the play. I didn't know if this would work, but I had a hunch it would. Before starting the hard work of frame-by-frame animation, I did some research on the internet to find out the technical feasibility of the project.Adafruit has this example: https://learn.adafruit.com/strobe-zoetrope/build-the-zoetropeBut I found many others, including this one: https://vimeo.com/168428865https://forum.arduino.cc/t/adustable-zoetrope-strobe/102374https://programminginarduino.wordpress.com/2016/03/05/project-11/https://hackaday.io/project/161254-zoetropehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kv-M7BIG5IBut the biggest job is precisely that of animation frame by frame. So I created a process to automate this task. First of all, I needed a black and white video with two characters dancing. I found a video of Fred Astaire and Eleanor Powell, dancing "Begin the begine". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZPndC-F5SEI used the youtube-dl software to download the video to my computer and perform the next steps. But you can also use online conversion tools like the ezgif.com platform. For my project I'll just make an animation with fifteen frames and the ideal is that the first and last frames are with very similar movements. You can choose any number of frames for your project, ranging from 12 to 30 frames per second.Using Shotcut, or any other video editor of your choice, select the starting and ending portion of your animation and export the resulting video at a frame rate of 15 frames per second (or the rate you want).Then use VLC Media player to save each frame separately.Finally, I treated each frame in isolation in GIMP, removing the background from the image and leaving the characters with the appearance of a black and white illustration. Also in this step, I created a copy of each frame keeping only the outline of the characters' silhouettes, to facilitate the laser cutting step.For the first prototype, I cut out each character on cardboard. But for the final project, I'm going to do everything in laser cutting and adhesive paper. The process should be much faster!Inkscape has a fantastic extension that generates the Zoetrope disk, with templates for the frames, included.From Cardboard to ArduinoThere's not much to say about this step, other than it's a lot of work! You must paste the characters one by one into the corresponding section of the disc. Originally I would put the characters on a conventional turntable, so I knew the dial rotated clockwise (thus the frame order must be reversed). But the direction of the disc can be changed later, on the Arduino.The basic functioning of the system is as follows: the disc with the characters has a small neodymium magnet glued to it. When the disc rotates, the hall effect sensor detects the magnet and records the time the rotation took to complete. It uses this value to calculate the strobe pulses that will happen on the Luxeon LED. A 10K fader allows you to adjust the speed to get the effect (I replaced the conventional fader with a multi-turn for a more accurate adjustment).I got this code, made by kellyegan: https://gist.github.com/kellyegan/759160b77aa87860dec1, but I have some issues with Stroboscopic effect. Probably by a poor reading of hall sensor. So, I adapt to take an average of 15 readings of hall sensor, find the correct timings of on and off for the strobe effect, and create a break routine when we turn off the system.// Zoetrope - Adapt. by Nicolau dos Brinquedos // of Kelly Egan's 3D Strobescopic Zoetrope (2014) // Including a better calculation for Strobe effect // Based in motor speed and rotation speed. // Take an average of speed measure. #define BUTTON_PIN 12 //Button to turn zoetrope on and off #define POT_PIN A0 //Potentiometer used to set speed of motor #define INDICATOR_PIN 13 //Indicator LED #define HALL_PIN 3 //Hall effect sensor to determine motor speed #define STROBE_PIN 6 //High-power LED used as strobe 6 #define MOTOR_PIN 5 //Motor control for spinning zoetrope #define DIRECTION 4 #define MOTOR_MIN 10 #define MOTOR_MAX 80 #define FRAME_FACTOR 2 #define NUM_READINGS 15 //Variables used in the interrupt function should be marked volatile volatile unsigned long rotationStartTime; volatile unsigned long rotationDuration; volatile unsigned long rotationReadings [NUM_READINGS]; volatile unsigned long rotations; int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading int total = 0; // the running total int average = 0; volatile boolean strobeState; int potValue; boolean buttonState, lastButtonState; //Button state and software debounce unsigned long lastDebounce; boolean zoetropeOn; unsigned long lastFrameTime; unsigned long frameDuration; unsigned long strobeTime; //The Rotations per second x number of frames of animation = Frequency of the strobe or camera fps float rpm; float rps; int numFrames = 15; void setup() { Serial.begin (115200); delay (5); pinMode(STROBE_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(DIRECTION, OUTPUT); pinMode(MOTOR_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(INDICATOR_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(HALL_PIN, INPUT); digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(MOTOR_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(DIRECTION, digitalRead(MOTOR_PIN)); // Motor Stopped attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(HALL_PIN), newRotation, RISING); //Interrupt 0 is on pin 3, Hall Effect sensor rotationStartTime = millis(); rotationDuration = 1000; // Atualiza com o sensor HALL for (int i = 0; i < NUM_READINGS; i++) { rotationReadings [i] = 0; // Clean my readings array } zoetropeOn = false; buttonState = false; lastButtonState = false; Serial.println ("Zoetrope Is ON"); } void loop() { buttonState = digitalRead( BUTTON_PIN ); if ( buttonState != lastButtonState ) { if ( buttonState == LOW ) zoetropeOn = !zoetropeOn; } lastButtonState = buttonState; total = total - rotationReadings[readIndex]; rotationReadings[readIndex] = rotationDuration; total = total + rotationReadings[readIndex]; readIndex = readIndex + 1; if (readIndex >= NUM_READINGS) { // ...wrap around to the beginning: readIndex = 0; } average = total / NUM_READINGS; // Find average value of rotationSpeed //Checks for divide by zero rpm = (rotationDuration > 0) ? (60000 / rotationDuration) : 0; if (rpm > 1428) { rpm = 1428; } frameDuration = average / numFrames; // Take an average of rotationDuration to find FrameDuration strobeTime = frameDuration / 15; // This number is the same number as my framenumber. // But still need more experimentation Serial.println (strobeTime); if ( zoetropeOn ) { potValue = map (analogRead(POT_PIN), 0, 1023, MOTOR_MIN, MOTOR_MAX); analogWrite( MOTOR_PIN, potValue ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, LOW); // Clockwise HIGH to CounterClock in my motor //If the time ellapsed since the last strobe is //greater than the frameduraciton turn on the strobe if ( micros() - lastFrameTime > frameDuration ) { lastFrameTime = micros(); digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, HIGH ); delay( strobeTime ); //In the original code, delay (1). But I can't get it work digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, LOW ); delay (14 * strobeTime); // Added by Nicolau dos Brinquedos } } else { //If zoetrope off turn off motor digitalWrite( STROBE_PIN, LOW ); while (potValue > 0) { analogWrite( MOTOR_PIN, potValue ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, LOW); potValue --; delay(10); } digitalWrite( MOTOR_PIN, HIGH ); digitalWrite (DIRECTION, HIGH); // added } } // Hall Effect Interupt function void newRotation() { delay(1); //Wait for first rotation before making measurement if (rotations > 0) { rotationDuration = millis() - rotationStartTime; } rotationStartTime = millis(); rotations++; } For the motor and led luxeon I used a L298 module. Initially I used an IRF540 module for the LEDs, but the circuit response is very slow and it was not possible to get the strobe effect.The result is this one: https://youtu.be/kDP2CZ1zXncAnd, the final version (lasercut the characters, and increased size) - https://youtu.be/cJvl9GdjOS8

Hey Everyone what's up.This is my DIY Studio Light ProjectWhich basically is a do-it-yourself studio light that is made from a custom 3D Printed body and a custom PCB which were both provided by PCBWay.QuestionIs it better to Buy an expensive Studio Light or Make your own DIY Studio Light with custom 3D Printed parts and PCB?Well, the goal for making this project was just that, I wanted to make a DIY Studio Light for my current "Maker Setup" as the lighting in my lab bench is not very great.commercially available light costs above 50$ (good ones) but why spend money on them when you can make your own Studio Light, Body can be made from a 3D Printer and the circuit can be manufactured by a PCB manufacturer.Also, I'm using a generic FR4 PCB here.But the question here is "Do these LEDs produce a lot of heat?"Yes, these LEDs produce a lot of heat so why I'm not using MCPCB (metalcore) instead of FR4 (fiberglass) for making a better-LED PCB that can disperse heat better than FR4 Board.You see, I have added lots and lots of Via in this PCB, these Via will conduct heat from the top side and transfer that heat to the bottom portion which will result in Heat getting Disperse equally. Then at the backside, there's a 12V Mini DC FAN which cools down the PCB heat.Apparently, Metal PCBs or MCPCBs are not $$$ wallet-friendly and if I have used a metal PCB in this project, I also have to use another FR4 board for LED Driver IC setup. So I saved a lot by making a single PCB that contains the LEDs and Driver IC setup.Also, the Body of this light is made from PET-G which is quite a durable plastic so overall, this DIY Studio Light can sustain heat.So in this post, I'm gonna show you guys the whole building process of this DIY Studio Light, so tight your seat belts and enjoy the ride.Material RequiredThese are the things that I used for this builtLEDs (NICHIA JK3030 3V.2W LED)1.5 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package0.47 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package100uf Capacitor63uH IndictorSS34 Diode SMADC Barrel JackCustom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)Custom 3D Printed body (which was also provided by PCBWAY)SIC9301A led driver IC x212V DC FAN (Generic small one)12V SMPS Power SupplyBasic StructureMain Schematic (Can be downloaded from here) is not very complex. It contains two LED Driver IC setups both with their LOAD (LEDs) connected separately.Their Input side is connected with each other which is the common Input VCC and GND. we will supply 12V to these two terminals to run this board.PCB DesigningWith the Schematic, I prepared the PCB in my CAD software.The board outlines were already designed in the Fusion360, I used its measurements as a reference to make the PCB.I placed LEDs at the center of the board and maintained an equal distance between them, to keep things symmetrically accurate.Also, I've placed lots of Vias in this PCB. Vias cover almost 70% of this PCB and they are here for Conducting heat as well as connecting one side with another side of the board.Anyways, after finishing the PCB, I exported its Gerber data and send it to PCBWay for samples.I Received the PCB in 7 days which is pretty fast, and it also came with a PCB Scale which was pretty cool (I have used my beans to get that scale though)I have to say, PCBs that I've received were great as expected, PCBWay, you guys rocks. Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service for less cost!Next is the PCB Assembly Process.PCB ASSEMBLYBefore starting the Assembly process, I gather all the stuff that was being used in this PCB, LEDs ICs Resistance Diodes.We start first by adding Solder paste to each component's pad one by one.Then we place components in their right location in the right order, this pick and place process is pretty long as I used 30 LEDs in this project but after this, all we need to do is reflow this PCB.After this, I carefully lifted this PCB which has components on top and place it on my DIY SMD HOTPLATE.Hotplate heats up this PCB up to the Solderpaste melting temperature which is around 200-250°C. Solder paste melts and connects the component Pads with PCB Pads.After ensuring that the whole PCB has been reflow properly (which took like 2 minutes) I carefully removed the PCB from Hotplate and let it cool down for few minutes.End result of this Hotplate Reflow process will be this nicely reflown PCB.The next Process is to add THT Components on the backside of the PCB in the Right Order. Four capacitors and two inductors.And our Circuit is basically completed.Now, to ensure that the soldering process was done without any short, I tested this circuit with a 12V Battery Pack by connecting the VCC and GND with battery packs 12V+ and GND.Custom Enclosure/BodyNext is the Main Body of this project which holds the Circuit in front and a Fan at the backside.I designed this whole project in Fusion360, the body was made in such a way that we can mount a Generic 12V Mini DC Fan on the backside, it also has two holders (these two) which we can mount on a wall with these mounting holes.For this project, the ideal material is PET-G because of its good thermal resistance to a higher temp (it still melts but its temperature resistance is far better than regular PLA).I have an Ender 3 and it just couldn't print a perfect PET-G Model so I used an external CNC Service this time.I used PCBWay's 3D Printing Service. PCBWay also provides CNC/3D Printing services apart from PCB manufacturing and PCB Assembly.So I uploaded my STL files for the body on PCBWay's FDM Quote Page and selected the material for this print job which was PET-G.I ordered the 3D Printed Main Body for this project and received the package in about a week.Here's the Custom Body that I have received, it looks pretty good considering that PET-G is hard to print material and they have nailed it.The quality of this print is very HIGH!This Service is useful for those who don't own a 3D Printer or who want an SLA 3D Print which cannot be made in an FDM Printer or a metal 3D Print.Check out PCBWay's 3D Printing Service for ordering custom 3D Printed/CNC Parts for a low Price.Now let's get back to our main topic. which was to add a 12V DC Fan at the backside with some M3 Nut and bolts.after this, we add our circuit in front with M3 Screws, but before adding the PCB with Enclosure, I added a barrel DC Jack which will be used to connect power to this setup.I added DC Fan's VCC and GND port with the Vin and GND Port of PCB, and the added positive terminal of Barrel Jack with Vin of Main PCB and GND of barrel jack to GND of main PCB.after adding wires, I screwed the circuit onto the 3D Printed Body and our Studio Light Setup was basically completed.RESULTThis light is small and lightweight as it doesn't have any Lithium battery inside it but it's alright as I'm gonna power this setup with an External 12V 5A SMPS.TESTING it out.For Running this Studio Light, I used this Metal SMPS which is rated at 12V 5A, I added this DC Jack to the VCC and GND of SMPS and then connected the DC Jack with Barrel Jack.Now, In order to check this setup voltage and current consumption, I added this digital Voltmeter with this wiring diagram.Right now this whole setup is drawing 11watts of power which is OK for now.The current consumption can be changed by adjusting these Resistances so if I want more power then I have to reduce the Resistance value in parallel.Like right now I've added 1.5 Ohms x3 Resistance and 0.47 Ohms Resistance in parallel which is around 0.24Ohms Total Resistance. To Increase the Power, we need to make this 0.24Ohms into 0.1Ohms which can be achieved by reducing the Resistance value.So I swapped two 1.5 Ohms Resistance with 1 Ohms Resistance on both Driver IC.And guess what, Now LEDs are drawing 1.23A at 12V which is 14.7W.An increase in Power is a little bit but it also increases the Light Intensity and lumens.But anyway, this is my current setup lighting, and when I add the Studio Light in front of this TTGO Board, Lighting increases drastically.Lighting Quality can be better if we add this light on the TOP side or prepare two more for each side, left and right.Role of FANWhy did I add a fan on the backside?The fan circulates air from the back to the front side which keeps PCB Cool from the Bottom side which is beneath the LEDs. This was a very crucial thing to do because as you already know, LEDs tend to heat up, and these LEDs that I'm using heat up very quickly. even though the PCB has so many vias to disperse heat properly, this PCB still needs a cooling source which is in this case an OLD 12V DC fan that I salvaged from my old Anet A8 Printer, it even has the company's logo.ConclusionSo the 100$ Question here is, is it better to buy an existing studio light or built your own with few LEDs and a Custom body and PCB?And the answer is YES, we can just Make our Own DIY Studio Light which will save cost and you can build multiple Light Box Setup for a better lighting solution.So what's next?For Part 2, I will be adding a PWM Dimmer to this STUDIO LIGHT Project and use two-color LEDs in it (Warm white and cool white). Also, I will increase the Length of this whole structure so I could add more LEDs to it and increase its Power and Lumens..Leave a comment if you need any help

Part list:1 x PCB ESP32 Balancing Robot Shield (PCBWay)1 x ESP32 DEVKIT V1 board2 x Stepper Motor Driver A49881 x 3 axis Acc. and Gyro sensor MPU60501 x LED 3mm2 x LED 3mm White Super Bright1 x Active BUzzer2 x V-Regulator 5V AMS1117 (SMD)1 x Resistor 1K Ohm1 x Capacitor 0.1uF1 x Capacitor 100uF/16V2 x Capacitor 220uF/16V1 x Terminal Screw 2 pin 5mm2 x Female Header 15 pin5 x Female Header 8 pin2 x Female Header 4 pin1 x Male Header 2 pin1 x Male Header 3 pin1 x Jumper capSchematics:ESP32 Stepper Motor Shield:3D Parts & Parts Needed:Print all of 3D parts Balancing robot, get design file from thingiverse.com/thing:2306541Additional parts:1 x Set 3D Printed Parts2 x Stepper Motor Nema171 x On-Off Switch2 x Rechargeable Battery Li-ion 18650 3,7V1 x Battery Holder 2x 186501 x Micro USB Cable1 x OTG Adapter1 x Set screw 5mm1 x Set M3 set screw 10mm1 x Servo Motor MG90SAndroid App:You can install the Android app from Google Playstore ESP32 Wifi Balancing Robot, this app can programing and controlling ESP32 board Balancing robot.