About the ET-AD01:Check the ET-AD01 blog post here: https://espthings.io/ad01About us:For a number of years, we, Michel and Paul, have been interested in the fascinating world of home automation. Where in the past the software was very much connected to the hardware you bought, nowadays there are a number of very nice open-source home automation software packages available.The software we both like the most is ‘Home Assistant’. It’s great software with support for a lot of types of sensors and devices. The best thing is that it supports homemade hardware sensors and devices! We noticed that a lot of people like to make hardware themselves. We also recognized a lack of well-designed circuits which can safely be built by people with not too much experience with electronics.Another thing we found many times searching around the web, is that published and shared designs were often PCB’s which were not designed to fit in a nice enclosure. Because of these issues we came up with the idea to start this website, espthings.io, where we will publish our own designs which can be easily built by everyone!For this project instructions and software configuration are freely available to ensure the project will be successful and works ‘as expected’. And lastly, we will always ensure that the PCB will fit in a nice enclosure, so that the finished project not only looks nice, but is also safe.Our goal is to ensure that everybody can build our projects. If you can’t wait to get started building, please read the ‘general information page’ first and also make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel so you won’t miss a thing!

IOT Lock with Arduino and ESP8266IOT lock composed of an arduino and ESP8266, for connection to the internet, using MQTT communication with SSL encryption for security, with this communication protocol we can access our house remotely, a clock module is also added to Obtain the exact moment of opening and who opened it, it has a fingerprint reader to facilitate access locally, however if the reader is used and it does not recognize you, an alarm will be issued to the different applications, the lock can be a simple one like the one that is placed in the prototype or a more robust one, it is quite modular since more functionalities can be added or removed.It has a mobile application, a desktop application and a web application, any of these applications have access to both open and view the inputs or outputs, they only require an internet connection.Both the ESP8266 and Arduino are programmed through the Arduino IDE. Instead the desktop application is programmed in Python, the mobile application is built with Kotlin and finally the web application is programmed in JS.However, the fingerprint sensor function is that in case of not obtaining internet for some external reason, the authorized person can enter, managing to store up to 50 fingerprints.

Based on this printed circuit board, you can make almost any clock on a 7 segment LED display with a common cathode or with a common anode.The device uses an 8-bit STM8S103F3P6 microcontroller, a DS3231 real-time clock, a TM1623 display control driver, and a DS18B20 temperature sensor.The VD1 diode is protected against reverse polarity of the power supply. Also, this project can be used with a display from a DVD player.

What's you project about? My project is a prototype of a disinfection cabin, since now with the pandemic it is very important to take care of ourselves, so a disinfection cabin is very important in almost all public places, such as companies, restaurants, schools and even in homes, to prevent the spread of COVID-19Why did you decide to do it? It is very important to take care of ourselves so as not to get sick, so we must follow the health regulations and take care of ourselves as well as sanitize all and in turn disinfect ourselves at all times.How does it work? It works thanks to the Arduino nano, it is the brain of this project that, based on the HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor, upon detecting an obstacle at a certain distance, it will send a pulse to the microcontroller that you see will activate a 110 or 220 volt A.C. water bobma. For this, a relay is connected to be able to activate the pump. The system is programmed for a 10 second sanitization, it will also keep a count of how many people are using the system through the LCD screen. Use the I2C interface to simplify screen connections to only use 2 analog ports of the arduino.

What's you project about? It is a clap session that can be adjusted based on how many claps we want any actuator to activate, be it a spotlight and automate the lighting of the home in a bedroom.why did you decide to make it? I decided to do this project because in my bedroom the switch is very far from my bed and because to facilitate everything just with a clap, it is the most efficient for me.How does it work? It is based on the well-known NE555 that is a timer that generates square wave pulses, as a clock or sequencer we use the CD4017 that generates sequences based on pulses that are delivered, so with this integrated we can configure until which pulses can be generated in this case, how many claps do we want the lamp or spotlight to light up, to facilitate the clap configuration. I put a Dip Switch that you just have to turn on the number of claps and it would already be configured to the taste of each person ... Without using ARDUINO or programming

Standalone:automated RGB-LED-Animation when door is opening / closingAdditional features when using with Home Assistant:see door-status (open / closed / moving)control door with Home Assistantbuild automations / notifications based on sensors/switchconfigure speed, anim-width and delaysPins:D1: ButtonD2: RGB-LED StripeD5: Sensor (open)D6: Sensor (closed)D7: RelayUsed products:D1 mini: https://amzn.to/3llNkD8Relais: https://amzn.to/3lozIr8Magnet-Kontakte: https://amzn.to/3kVuP9ZPegelwandler: https://amzn.to/3kVLj1z10k Ohm Widerstand: https://amzn.to/3ut5gA7Kondensator: https://amzn.to/3F5Qt33ESPHome Code: https://smarthomeyourself.de/hc_downloads/esphome_garagentor.txtESPHome Binary (Standalone): https://smarthomeyourself.de/hc_downloads/esphome_garagentor_10ms_150leds_15sec.bin3D-Print Case (STL): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4963861Video:https://youtu.be/NvoPeyG30WA

Relay and Isolated Input Base BoardThis PCB is part one of a stackable series, which will comprise an Automation Controller, controllable via the ESP32-s or ESP-12E SOC modules. `This project is considered the next step in my quest to create the ultimate Home Automation controller.With this PCB, I attempt to solve a few problems, as well as incorporate some of my already well functioning circuits into a stackable base-board. In my previous project, (Make your own ESP12-E based IoT Controller) I managed to create ( in my opinion at least ) a close-to-very-easy-to-use device. While this may be true, the ESP-12E based controller still had quite a few shortcomings.-It can only be powered from a DC power source, making it necessary to have external AC-to-DC conversion components.-It has only two built-in relays-It has no optically Isolated inputs, thus making it necessary to use external circuitry to protect the inputs from voltages bigger than 3v.-It has only another 4 spare GPIO on the PCF8574 port expander-Needs more power ports ( 3v, 5v and GND ), as well as more access to the I2C Bus.-An external level converter is required to connect devices requiring 5v to the I2C Bus or other GPIO pins.Of all these, certainly the most painful, to me at least, is definitely the lack of support for powering the device directly from AC mains power.This project is thus my attempt to correct that. Another big concern is board size. I want to stay in a form factor that is relatively as small as possible, to make it easy to install into already available commercial electrical containers and boxes.It was thus decided to go for a series of stackable cards, with each adding functionality to the completed device, while not necessarily needing every single one of them in order to have a functional device.So, let us start with a detailed explanation of the PCB.Powering the device from AC power.This part seemed to me to be the most problematic at first, as designing a custom SMPS is definitely not something that I am very comfortable with. I have thus decided to use a commercially available PCB mounted AC/DC module, delivering 5v at 2A to take care of that issue. The HLK-10M05 is quite reliable and already proven in the industry. It is also relatively cheap and easily obtainable.Having the possibility to power the device completely from DC power is also not an ability that I would like to lose. I have thus also included a DC power jack as an alternative power source. This will power a 5v LDO regulator, as well as the required 3.3v LDO regulator for the ESP SOC. This 5v regulator is protected with a protection diode to prevent 5v power from flowing into it when the SMPS is in use.I have also noted in the ESP-12E version, that the regulators got a little hotter than I would like when powering the device from 15v DC.I have thus added some large via-stitched copper heatsinks below the LDO regulators, as well as the SMPS module to help to dissipate someof the generated heat. In the newest prototype, this seemed to work quite well.Quite a few filtering and decoupling capacitors were added to the power supply circuit to decrease any ripple to an absolute minimum.The +3v, +5v and ground lines are fed to the stacked boards through a 2x4 way header in the right-hand corner of the PCBThe usual anti-tracking cut-out slots were also added to all areas where mains power will be present. These areas were also excluded from the ground planes on the PCB.Optically Isolated Digital Inputs (x4)In the top left-hand corner of the PCB is an 8-way screw terminal, connected to the Optically Isolation Circuits. These signals will be sent up to the controller board via a 2x2 pin header in the same left-hand corner. The circuitry is based on a previous design of myself, based on the EL357N, and capable of accepting a signal of 5.5v to 32.0v DC. Please note that this signal is completely galvanically isolated from the board. This means that you must provide a separate ground for each individual input as well. This ground should not be common to the PCB, as doing that will defeat the purpose of isolating the input in the first place. Four status LEDs are provided for port status and debugging purposes.The Relay control circuitryThe relay control circuit is once again exactly the same, optically isolated relay driver circuit as was used in the ESP-12E IoT controller PCB. This circuit performs well and I did not see any need to change it. The only change was the addition of an additional two relays to the PCB.I think it is worth noting that these relays are MAINS POWER FREE, i.e DRY Contacts. This, in my opinion, provides greater flexibility to the end-user, by allowing him/her to switch AC or DC with a specific relay. The components for each relay driver is placed close together, in order to make repair and debugging in the event of a failure easier. The relay circuits are ACTIVE LOW, and the control signals are received from a 2x2 pin header roughly in the centre, right-hand side of the PCB.Standalone Use, or using the PCB with another microcontroller.It is also possible to use this PCB with another microcontroller, for example, an STM32 of Arduino, providing that you take in mind that the optically Isolated Inputs will provide a 3v signal. A level converter can be used to take them up to 5v. The relay drivers are also designed for 3v and need to be driven low to energise the relay. A total of 4 ground pins and two each 3v and 5v are broken out onto headers.Mechanical detailsThe PCB dimensions are +/- 100mm wide by 97mm high.6 mounting holes of 3.2mm diameter are provided for mountingAll AC capable connectors should be 5.08mm pitch screw-type terminals.Optically Isolated Inputs are 2.54mm screw-type terminals.All other headers are standard 2.54mm male pin headers.The device should be fused at 1A, with a slow-blow type fuse. ( Operating current is 700mA at peak )CodeThis PCB required no coding and contains no programmable parts.

I built this board so I can assemble various ESP8266 based sensors using easily available breakout boards.I designed this board to support the following sensors. Check the schematics for the pinout.I2C:BME680: temperature, humidity, pressure, VOCBH1750: ambient lightSH21: temperature, humidityand of course any other I2C sensor that have the same pinout as one of the 3 above1-wire:DHT11/DHT22: temperature and humidity with the 4.7k resistorDS18B20 temperature probes with the 4.7k resistorOthers:Current clamp for power consumption measurement, also the requited 2 x 10k resistor and 10uF capacitorRCWL-0516: radar motion sensor4 Relay relay boardHeader to access all ESP GPIO pinsYou need a Wemos D1 mini as the ESP microcontroller board, and the sensors mentioned above that is available in many different places. Some of the more exotic parts:RCWL-0516 microwave motion sensor: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948027705.htmlSCT-013-000 YHDC 30A current clamp: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32708887594.htmlPowering this boardThere are 3 different ways this board can be powered:1) Mains powerUse a screw terminal on the top and a Hi-Link HLK PM01 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32408565688.html) 5V power supply. There is also a footprint for a varistor to clamp high voltage transients (pick a part suitable for your mains power), and also a regular fuse holder. I am using 100mA slow blow fuse there. If you don't want to use a fuse, bridge the terminals with a wire.2) 5VUse the H3 terminal to supply the board with 5V. Note the correct polarity, there is no polarity protection in the board.3) DC powerUse the H4 terminals to supply 6-24V DC. Note the correct polarity, there is no polarity protection in the board. Also populate the footprint for the small buck converter (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000076471931.html) to transform the 6-24V to 5V.Firmware and TutorialsMy intro to this board can be seen in this video: https://youtu.be/WzjfJQtedCAI am planning to release more videos on how to build sensors and build a firmware using ESPHome.

Development of the Dubos Air IoT project.The device receives data from local sensors (DS12B20, BMP180, HTU21D or Si7021) and remote devices via a 435 MHz radio channel, then uploads it to the NarodMon (Народный мониторинг) or Dozor MoyMon (Дозор Мой мониторинг) or Thingspeak server. Receiving commands from the server, the device can control four outputs (LED strips, motors, beeps) or send a command over the 435 MHz radio channel.All theese functions are optional. User can get data and send commands using user-friendly web-interface.Unfortunately, the software is still under development. It will be published as soon as it is ready.

This is a replacement Do-It-Yourself programmable ESP8266-based module for controlling a Xiaomi MiDeskLamp 1S.Based on ESPHome firmware, allows you to replace the original PCB (at same form factor) with just a screwdriver and replacing by this PCB. Your LED desktop lamp will behave from then on as self-contained, proper local IP, non-remote server dependant, home automation new toy!Complete firmware, montage and instruction leaflet available on request. All Xiaomi original functions like e.g. rotary button, color temp. options and the like, are properly supported by this.PLEASE NOTE, that replacing your original with this one will void your Xiaomi warranty, so as great as this design really is, it's not for the feeble of mind or the persons not linking this kind of alternative firmwares.

IntroductionLedBox V2 is a fully contained, sound reactive, ESP32 based module for controlling 5-12V addressable LED strips (WS2812, SK6812, etc.), supporting both 3-(VDD,DAT,GND) and 4-(VDD,DAT,CLK,GND) pin configuration.The module has a dedicated step-down converter, which allows to seamlessly use it with both 5V and 12V strips (input voltage needs to match strip's voltage). It also contains a digital MEMS microphone, side button, 32kHz IR receiver, 10A safety resettable fuse, 1000μF buffer capacitor, 3.3V/5V level converter for both Data and Clock lines, together with an impedance matching resistor. These features ensure maximum functionality, safety, and led strip compatibility, all in a small (54x32x18mm) 3D printable enclosure.Writing your own firmware is an option which unlocks limitless possibilities, but to avoid reinventing the wheel, the module is by default fully compatible with WLED and Sound Reactive WLED firmware for Wi-Fi control.SpecificationThe 5.5x2.1mm, center-positive DC barrel jack allows MAX 17V input voltage (VDD_IN), determined by TPS62162DSG step-down converter. However, since VDD_IN is directly connected to LED strip's power supply (VDD) through a resettable fuse (PPTC), be very careful, and connect only voltage that is rated for your LED strip (usually 5V or 12V). Also, make sure that the power capabilities of your supply meets (or preferable exceeds) the expected power requirement of the LED strip.The LED strip is connected through a safety resettable fuse (PPTC) which will trip if the current draw exceeds 10A. This feature can be bypassed by closing the JP2 solder bridge on the back side of the board, but it is not recommended due to safety reasons. The main function of the fuse is to protect the module in scenarios like short circuit on the strip side. I strongly advise against running the module close to 10A. Keep in mind that even the JST SM connector, that addressable LED strips use, is officially rated only for max 3A. If you really need to power strips with higher current consumption, a safer way is to branch out the power line (VDD, GND) before the module using thicker cables, and connect them directly to the strip (power injection).When using long strips, you might experience a color shift towards the end, due to the voltage drop caused by strip's resistance.This can be solved by injecting power to the strip repeatedly every few meters (e.g. every 5m for WS2812 or every 2.5m for WS2813, SK9822, SK6812).Always make sure that you know and understand what you are doing, especially when dealing with large current. You are doing this at your own risk.LedBox comes with a standard 3-wire JST SM connector soldered on VDD, DAT, and GND, for seamless connection of 3-pin addressable LED strips. To use 4-wire strips, additional CLK pin can be easily soldered. DAT has a 470Ω series resistor, and both DAT and CLK are bi-directionally level-shifted from 3.3V to 5V by TXS0102DCU, to meet recommended operating conditions for most strips.Purchased module comes with preloaded sound-reactive WLED firmware and works out of the box. Moreover, WLED has the ability to perform over-the-air updates (OTA), such that you can upload the compiled .hex file directly through browser interface, and the module automatically updates its firmware. However, if you still want to flash the ESP32 manually, an external serial-to-usb adapter such as notoriously known red FT232RL FTDI board, is needed. The adapter needs to be set to use 3.3V (5V would destroy the chip), and connected as shown in the picture below.After connecting the programmer, the chip needs to enter bootloader mode. This can be done by pressing the "FLASH" button, resetting the chip by shorting "RST" bridge or reconnecting 3V3, and then releasing the button. Now it is ready to be flashed with a new firmware. If the chip does not boot after flashing, you might have to flash esp32 bootloader to memory address 0x0. See more details here.The board also has test pads and Tag-Connect on the bottom for programming and testing in a jig, which is available on project's GitHub.SetupTo fully utilize module's potential, it is recommended to use the sound-reactive version of WLED firmware. Since this firmware has disabled IR by default, LedBox comes with a modified version, which enables all supported features. This firmware is available to download in the right sidebar under "Resources".When you first boot the module, it is important that you setup the required functionality in WLED's settings.In Config > LED Preferences, set Button pin: to 0, IR pin: to 4, and press Save.In case you want to use the IR interface and it still does not work, you might have one of the earlier version of the board, that came with the default firmware.To fix this issue, simply navigate to Config > Security & Updates > Manual OTA Update, click Choose File, select the newest firmware (LedBoxV2_SR_WLED_*.bin), and click Update.Layout