This PCB brings the "S" into the SFB (Smart Filament Buffer). It combines a Filament-Buffer needed for multi material 3D printing with an integrated run-out sensor which tells your 3D printer whether it's out of printing material.Utilizing an Arduino Nano, an OLED display and Hall-Sensors it's a breeze to set up and configure according to your needs.Read all about the project in the description linked on Thingiverse.I created this PCB for everyone who'd like to build his/her own SFB without the hassle of wiring it up on a piece of prototype board.A very short video on how it works can be found here:

This board solves flickering effect problem for LEDs.Project video: https://youtu.be/kAI77ma01wEOne color LED version: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/LED_Brightness_Controller_with_555_Timer.htmlProject video:

Hey everyone what's up!So this is my Micro Fighter Bot or Micro Robot V2 which is an easy-to-make Micro Robot that is powered by an Arduino Nano board and L293D Motor driver IC.I'm using a Bluetooth Based Mobile terminal app which is available on the google play store to control this robot. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.giumig.apps.bluetoothserialmonitorYes, I'm using Bluetooth here, the good old HC01 module.IDEA Behind RobotThe goal for making is Robot was to make a small robot platform that I could use in my next project which is a fighting bot duo. basically, I want to prepare a small but fast Robot that can fight other small robots, not fight to the death but a normal sumo fighting kinda thing.Previously, I have made a similar Micro RObot which only had 2 wheels, the problem with that BOT was stability.also, it can not navigate well over obstacles, such as rocky terrain, sharp declines, or areas with low friction.To improve this, I prepared this Robot which had 4 wheels so it had a sturdy frame with the center of gravity at the centermost part of the robot as this would help in taking sharp turns at high speed.I designed this robot in Fusion360 First, the idea here was to make a base that will be used to screw motor mounts from the bottom side of the Base, and with 3 pillars, a PCB can be mounted on it. In between the PCB and Base, a Li-ion battery is placed.So this was the plan.Materials Required3D Printed Parts-Base x 1Motor Mount x 4Front Shield x 1Pillars x 3ComponentsL293D Motor Driver ICArduino NANOCustom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)Micro Gear DC MotorFemale Header PinsDC Barrel JackAMS11174.7uf Cap 1206 Package22uf Cap 1206 PackageSMD LED 0603 Package1K Resistance 0603 PackageHC01 ModuleBattery JST ConnectorPCB DesignThe first step for making a PCB Project is to make a schematic that will have all the components that we need to run our project.I Prepared a simple setup that consists of an Arduino Nano connected with the L293D Motor driver IC in its proper configuration, HC01 is also connected with the Arduino Nano.I've used a 12V 2.6A Battery in this setup, It's not recommended to add 12V directly with Arduino's VIN port so I added AMS1117 to step down this 12V into 3.3V for Arduino and HC01 to run without any issue.Here's the schematic that I prepared!After finalizing this Schematic, I then Imported its netlist and converted this into a PCB Design.As for the PCB Outline, I used the reference dimensions from the fusion360 Model and then made the PCB based on it.I exported the Gerber data and then send it to PCBWay for samples.PCBWAY ReviewAfter sending the PCBs for manufacturing, it only took 7 days to get delivered.The PCBs that I had received were nice as expected!PCBWay you guys rock!Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service at less cost!Note-Before starting the assembly process, here's a quick fact. I'm using an HC01 module which is pretty hard to find, you could easily Find its breakout board on the internet but these modules are not exactly easy to obtain.also, they cost a lot so what I did was, I took one of my HC05 modules and place it on my reflow hotplate and remove the HC01 module from its Breakout board.PCB AssemblyAfter Receiving the PCB, all that was left to do was to apply solder paste to each component pad.1. Solder paste DispencingI used a normal Sn-Pb solder paste which has a melting temp from 140 to 270 °CThe solder paste Dispencing method is relatively easy, we apply a little amount of solder paste to each components pad one by one which will take time.After Adding solder paste, we need to do the "PICK and place Process"2. PICK and Place ProcessI then used an ESD Tweezer to carefully pick and place each component on their assigned place one by one which took like 3 mins top but end result was a perfect PCB with all the components place in their place in the right orientation.3. HOTPLATE REFLOWAfter the "PICK and Place Process", I carefully lifted the whole circuit board and place it on my DIY SMT Hotplate which is also homemade just like this project.After Few mins when the hotplate reaches the Solderpaste melting TEMP, all the components will get soldered by this Hot Reflow process.4. THT ComponentsNow we have to add THT Components which are Header pins, DC Jack, L293D IC, and Battery JST Connector.I just use a regular solder iron for this Job.at last, we put the Arduino Nano on the header pin.As you can see right here, I have added jumper pins on the PCB, these are connected in series with TX and RX.You see, if we add RX and TX of Arduino with HC01 on the PCB directly without any Breakout point, we will not able to program the Arduino nano because of the UART Error.I've added these two header pins on PCB so I can short them and by this HC01 will communicate with the Arduino Nano, when we have to program the Arduino Nano, we only have to remove two jumpers from these header pins.You could also remove the Arduino Nano and program it with the sketch and then put it back on the PCB, this method will work but it's too much work for me so I prefer to use header pins instead.Anyways, after doing this our PCB is finally ready. But we still have to check if the Circuit is working or not.Testing the Circuit!For Testing this board, I will use two things basically, first, I will use this battery which is a Li-ion battery pack 12V, I have a BMS on it so we don't have to worry about it many things related to its battery protection.we first add the battery onto our PCB with the JST connect in the right polarity.then we turn on the switch and our Arduino nano along with HC01 are working.HC05 LED is blinking and LED is Glowing in Arduino nano, this means that both of these modules are working without any problem.Next, I added a 12V 5A SMPS on the DC Barrel jack, this is for charging the onboard battery pack. LED on the DC Jack side is glowing which means everything is nice and dandy.now, at last, I took out my phone and paired it with the HC01 Module.then I opened a Bluetooth terminal app in my phone and connected the HC01 with it. as soon as it gets connected, The LED Stopped its frequent blinking sequence which is a sign that the module is now connected with the device.So our PCB has now qualified its testing process and now we will prepare the 3D Printed Base Body which will hold the PCB and other stuff.3D Printed Parts and Body assemblyhere's this lower base that is holding four DC motors with a motor mounting bracket from the bottom side.Then three pillars are on the opposite side, these pillars will be used to mount PCB and Base together.In between PCB and Base, a Li-ion battery is placed so it is all a compact setup that holds everything together nicely.As for the material for these 3D Printed Parts, I'm going with the transparent PLA and Transparent yellow PLA which kinda look like the golden color but it's not.After adding everything together, I then added the battery in the middle part and connected its terminal with the JST connector.then I added wires to the motor and PCB in this orderCODEint motorLpin1 = 2; int motorLpin2 = 3; int motorRpin1 = 4; int motorRpin2 = 5; int rightMotorENA = 10; int leftMotorENB = 11; int motorSpeed = 200; int turn=50; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); Serial.flush(); pinMode(motorLpin1,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorLpin2,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorRpin1,OUTPUT); pinMode(motorRpin2,OUTPUT); pinMode(rightMotorENA,OUTPUT); pinMode(leftMotorENB,OUTPUT); } void loop(){ String input=""; while(Serial.available()){ input+=(char)Serial.read(); delay(5); } if(input=="S"){ MotorStop(); } else if(input=="F"){ MotorForward(); } else if(input=="R"){ MotorBackward(); } else if(input.indexOf("TR")>-1){ MotorLeft(); } else if(input.indexOf("TL")>-1){ MotorRight(); } else if(input.indexOf("SQ")>-1){ SQUARE(); } } void MotorForward(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,200); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,200); } void MotorBackward(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,HIGH); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,200); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,200); } void MotorLeft(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,HIGH); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,50); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,50); } void MotorRight(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,HIGH); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); analogWrite(leftMotorENB,50); analogWrite(rightMotorENA,50); } void MotorStop(void) { digitalWrite(motorLpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorLpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin1,LOW); digitalWrite(motorRpin2,LOW); digitalWrite(leftMotorENB,LOW); digitalWrite(rightMotorENA,LOW); } void SQUARE(void) { } The uploading process is pretty easy and simple, we first remove the jumpers from the HC01 Header pins and then connect the Arduino nano with our computer and fash the Bot with Arduino IDE and that is pretty much the uploading process!Code is pretty simple and you could alter it according to your needs or requirements.(Do not forget to add jumper after the flashing process back in their place)Our MicroBot is ready for its first RUN!APPNow, the previous version was controller by a blynk app but I'm not using ESP32 or ESP8266 in this project. We required a Bluetooth terminal app here.I'm using this Bluetooth controller app that you can download from the google play store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.giumig.apps.bluetoothserialmonitorOpen this app and pair your HC01 with it, after that open its controller mode and assign the Buttons their value which is in our case these.TL for Turn LeftTR for Turn rightF for ForwardR for ReverseS for StopNow we just press any button to control this robot!RESULT/TEST RUNConclusion and ImprovementAs you can see, our robot is working! and it's pretty fast which was my goal, to make it as fast and sturdy as possible.Now, this setup works like a development platform, a micro fighter platform.the idea here is to make multiple of these roots and let them do fighting and stuff. also, we have to add few gimmicks in these bots like normal weapons shield armor, and stuff.This project is completely open-source so if anyone here wants to make one of these robots then all the documents are attached.Comment/DM if you need any more help.If Project was fun then do hit that like button!Thanks, PCBWAY for providing PCBs for this project,Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service for less price.and I'll see you guys with the next Project!

The Github site to download the code and design files is available here: https://github.com/mike-rankin/ESP32_USB-C_Power_SupplyA video of the project is available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5UGXPlmMGQThe idea for this ESP32 usb-c power supply project came to me when I discovered that components exist that communicate to parts inside usb-c wall chargers. These parts send out a request to the charger asking it to deliver specific voltage and current values if possible. Small chargers cannot deliver as much power as the larger ones. The small navigation button allows the user to select values with the top button as a power switch.Hardware design instead of software is my strength so Larry Bank (https://github.com/bitbank2) was kind enough to write the software. I've changed a few things around and damaged it so it is still work in progress.To upload an Arduino sketch to the board it is connected to a pc using a USB-C cable but the output is only ever +5V. When the board is plugged into a dedicated usb-c charger like the 60 watt apple one that I use, multiple voltages and current options are available. Text on the back of your charger will let you know what values are available.A +5V LDO with a maximum input of 36V provides power to the CP2104N USB-C interface chip. Current consumption is so low for this part that and LDO will not get warm.Because the ESP32 current draw a few hundred milliamps, an earlier revision using an LCD was too hot when +15v and +20V was selected. (power=voltage x current) A small switching buck power supply with a maximum input of +40V now runs cool.Measuring current draw at every voltage would be ideal so I've chosen the INA199 because at this time it is the only component that I can find in stock. Right now it's performance not good so I will try and find something better for the next revision.

What are the Best Kamehameha in the history of Dragon ball?Well in this post, I'm giving you the 10 greatest Kamehameha in the history of the series.Number 1, that time when Goku decided to be on a PCB and fire LED Chasing Sequence which is actually powered by a Coin Cell, not chi in this case.The whole setup is powered by an Attiny84 and a few MOSFET ICs!INTRO Idea behind this badge and storyHey everyone what's up!All jokes aside, yes I made another PCB Badge which has a very interesting character on it. for those who don't know anything about Dragon ball, well it's an anime.So this character GOKU, He's a Martial artist and he's also an alien from outer space, he and his group of friends protect the world from generic bad guys.In this show, Goku and his friends use this power known as Chi, Kamehameha is the name of Chi blast that Goku uses to defeat his enemies.A few days ago, I saw dragon ball after many years and this thought pops up in my mind, which was to convert Goku into a PCB and use Blue LEDs to emulated or imitate the CHI Blast!So I made this Cool looking PCB in my OrCAD PCB designing suite and send it to PCBWay for samples.In this video, I'm gonna show you guys how I made this PCB Badge in few easy stepsGETTING STARTEDThe first step for making a PCB Project is to make a schematic that will have all the components that we need to run our project.The CHI blast will be imitated by 5 LEDs Rows, each row will have 4 LEDs each which will be connected in parallel, with a total of 20 LEDs.To drive these LED Rows individually, I added an 8205S Mosfet IC to each row.So basically, To drive LEDs, I'm using a MOSFET as a Switch setup, then this MOSFET will be controlled by an Attiny84 MCUThese are the materials required for this built!Attiny84Custom PCB8205S Mosfet0603 Blue LEDsCoin Cell Holder (SMD)10K Resistance1K ResistanceUSB Micro portHeader pinsDESIGNAfter Finalizing the Schematic, I then added components package details in the schematic and then converted this whole schematic into a PCB Board.Before placing everything, I first imported this BMP image of GOKU into my PCB Design to keep this as a reference or guideline for placing the components.Please note that the importing BMP image process will be different for your PCB Suits.Anyways, after this I added components to their assigned places one by one, I added LEDs in rows and columns in the Kamehameha place.it took only a couple of hours to finalize this PCB, in the end, this was the result.After this, I exported its Gerber data and sent it to PCBWay for samples.PCBWAY ReviewAfter sending the PCBs for manufacturing, it only took 7 days to get delivered.The PCBs that I had received were nice as expected!this project required a custom silkscreen job which was not exactly easy to make but they did a great job in making these boards.PCBWay you guys rock!Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB service at less cost!PCB ASSEMBLY(watch the video for full tutorial)After getting the PCBs, I started the assembly process.we add solder paste to the pads of each component first.then we pick and place each component, one by one on their assigned location.After this, we carefully lift the PCB and place it on a reflow hotplate for SMT REFLOW.(I'm using my DIY SMT HOTPLATE to reflow this PCB)Anyways, after that I removed few shorts which occur during the reflow process, these happen because of excess solder paste, how to avoid this? by using a Stencil instead of dispensing solder paste with a needle.After this, I added THT components and our PCB was basically ready.But it still needs a critical thing to run, which would be,option A Code,option B, more code.and then the right answer here is option A.We have to upload code to it!PROGRAMMINGI'm using an Attiny84 in this project, to program this microcontroller we can do two things here.1st is to program it via USBASP and Atmel studio which is the hard way or use an Arduino as ISP Setup to flash this MCU.I'm gonna use the Second option here which is the Arduino as ISP setup, for that I have already made a custom programmer that utilizes an Arduino Nano Board to flash a variety of stuff.To do that, we first need the infamous Spence one AttinyCore for Arduino IDE which you can download from here https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCoreAfter Installing the core files, connect the following Arduino as ISP pins with PCB Badge in this order.VCC to VCCGND to GNDD10 of Arduino Nano to RST Pin of Attiny84D11 of Arduino Nano to MOSID12 of Arduino Nano to MISOD13 of Arduino Nano to SCK of Attiny84After wiring, it’s time to flash the Microcontroller with its main sketchint pinsCount=5; // declaring the integer variable pinsCount int pins[] = {A0,A1,A2,A3,A4}; // Pin array of LEDs void setup() { pinMode(A0, OUTPUT); pinMode(A1, OUTPUT); pinMode(A2, OUTPUT); pinMode(A3, OUTPUT); pinMode(A4, OUTPUT); } void loop() { for (int i=0; i<pinsCount; i=i+1){ // chasing right digitalWrite(pins[i], HIGH); // switching the LED at index i on delay(70); // stopping the program for 100 milliseconds digitalWrite(pins[i], LOW); // switching the LED at index i off } for (int i=pinsCount-1; i>0; i=i-1){ // chasing left (except the outer leds) digitalWrite(pins[i], HIGH); // switching the LED at index i on delay(70); // stopping the program for 100 milliseconds digitalWrite(pins[i], LOW); // switching the LED at index i off } } The Flashing Process is relatively simple,open the tool menu, and select the attiny84 from boards. do not change any setting.select Arduino as ISP as programmerselect the Right port and hit Burn Bootloader, wait for few seconds and you will be greeted with a done burning bootloader message.now go to the sketch menu and hit "upload using programmer"And your board will Flash, and it will start its Kamehameha sequence.RESULTCONCLUSIONAs you can see, with a little bit of creativity, we can convert anything into a PCB which was kinda like my goal here.Making this project was fun and I would like to improve few things in this setup like adding a current limiting resistor to this board because these LEDs are drawing too much power, I powered it with USB Port with a 5V 2A charger and 4 LEDs straight up getting burned.so it's recommended to add current limiting resistance in this setup or a better option would be to use a less current charger to drive this badge (5V 0.500A)Anyways, Comment if you need any help!Peace out

Lurking for a simple digital filter for my modular synthesizer, I got aware of the existence of a library capable of turning any arduino board into a wavetable oscillator... WHAAAT!I could not resist (how could I! Korg DW8000 is still one of my favourite synthesizers!) and immediately started developing a pcb for an eurorack wavetable oscillator based on Mozzi library.In the following I will show you how I designed my voltage controlled wavetable oscillator prototype for modular systems.FeaturesI designed the board layout with very specific functions in mind, but given the possibility to upload any custom sketch/firmware, this can be seen as a base for a lot of different modulars (i.e. Mozzi oscillators, but not only that).In general the PCB is designed to handle:- up to 4 potentiometers, for direct control of parameters- up to 3 external control voltages (0-5V, overvoltage protected)- 1 trimmer for fine, permanent settings (i.e. V/oct scaling)- up to 7 digital pins configurable as inputs or outputs- small footprint- eurorack power supply ready (2x8 pins IDC connector)- built-in Midi IN circuit- open firmwareThe community around the Mozzi library made an incredible work in these years. Not only the libray itself is very deep, but there are also utilities that can help make this thing even more interesting. In example: what about the possibiliry to ?create your own wavetables from wav files! O_O'Hardware Design Choices and CircuitsUsing arduino and Mozzi library for this project makes the pure sound generation "simple", but some boundary/slave circuit are needed to accomodate an arduino into a module that will coexist with other, external modules.A necessary precaution concerns input voltages: Arduino sends and receives "logical" inputs, therefore it is limited to the 0-5 V dc range both in input and output. To overcome this, I have included three voltage limiting circuits, one for each analog inputs left for CVs. This circuit can be done in various ways: frequency divider, use of a Zener diode, use of Schottky diodes... just to cite the most common. The circuit adopted in this board is made with schottky diodes as per Doepfer specifications. The circuit lowers any voltage above 5V (in a modular system we can expect up to 10-12V for a control voltage), "stops" any negative voltage, and transfers variable voltages below the 5V threshold voltage.Another built-in circuit is MIDI input. The circuit is built around a common optocoupler (6N138) and it's shown above. To optimize the code, I generally prefer to use hardware serial instead of software serial. This project makes no exception. Being that the MIDI circuit interfere with arduino Rx pin even when nothing is connected, I placed a simple jumper, labelled "JRx". This has to be removed/switched every time you want to upload a new sketch and then inserted back in for MIDI to work. A little annoying, but keeping the code lean has priority in a project that deals with waves generation (you will get used at that, don't worry!).To use Mozzi library at its best, audio output is made compatible with both STANDARD PLUS and HIFI modes.In HIFI mode, bit depth is increased and effective noise floor reduced. It does not have an effect on distortion or unwanted PWM frequency interference, anyway.To have your hardware ready for HIFI mode, populate R1, R2, R3 and C1 with:R0 - 1M ohmR1 - 1M ohmR2 - 3.9K ohmC1 - 4.7nFTo have your hardware ready for STANDARD PLUS mode, instead, populate R2 with a 330 ohm resistor and leave the other components unpopulated.Setting HIFI mode asks for both the described components in the output stage, but also for a software mod. Go to "Documents\Arduino\libraries\Mozzi-master", open "mozzi_config.h" and change#define AUDIO_MODE STANDARD//#define AUDIO_MODE HIFIto//#define AUDIO_MODE STANDARD#define AUDIO_MODE HIFIIn this shield, all arduino nano analog inputs are wired: four are dedicated to the front panel potentiometers, three can be used for external analog inputs (with overvoltage protection) and the latest (A7) is hard-wired to an utility trimmer.A total of seven digital inputs are accessible for user functions.Please notice that the sketch I wrote cannot be uploaded into an Arduino nano with ATmega168 processor because of memory limits. Be sure to buy a nano with ATmega328P.Even if the board is equipped with a full 8x2 IDC connector, being 100% digital this projects is powered by +5V only.The SketchI wrote a sketch as a starting point for future implementations and features.Being this intended to be the oscillator of a modular synthesizer (mine :) ), you will not find a whole synth coded, but a steady, two waves generator.So, what I coded here are two detunable, wavetable assignable, pure oscillators. Selectable waves are sine, triangular, saw, square, and white noise, in any combination.The oscillator pitch can be controlled by MIDI or voltage.In the followings the functions of potentiometers, buttons and incoming MIDI messages.PotentiometersThe first potentiometer POT_A0 controls the relative detuning of wave two.The second potentiometer (POT_A1) acts on the relative gain of the two waves: fully clockwise you will hear wave one only, fully counter-clockwise wave two only. Any other position results in a relative blend of the two waves.The third potentiometer (POT_A2) controls the global output gain.The fourth potentiometer (POT_A3) affects the main tuning.The built-in trimmer is used for V/oct scaling.MIDIIf a MIDI note-on messages is received, waves are tuned accordingly.A gate out signal is output at D8 pin when a MIDI note-on (HIGH) or note-off (LOW) message is received, accordingly.Default MIDI channel is set to 1 and can be easily changed by uploading a new firmware.Both MIDI note-on and pitchbend are supported.MIDI note priority is set to latest. It is possible to code other note priorities (lowest, highest) but the actual code does not support them.Control VoltagesThis wavetable oscillator is not MIDI-only, but also voltage controlled. By sending a 0 - 5V signal to analog input A6 both waves will tune accordingly. As said, the trimpot acts on V/oct scaling.A simple voltage control over wave two detuning is coded: if a reading other than 5V is available at analog input "A4", it is summed to POT_A0 reading and toghether detune the oscillator.MIDI note-on message has the priority over voltage pitch control, and disables it. In order to re-activate CV pitch control, disconnect the MIDI cable then reset the microcontroller.Please notice that I had not the possibility to test adeguately the CV part of the code (I have not a keyboard, nor a controller adopting the V/Oct standard at the moment), but I will in the near future.ButtonsTwo non-latching buttons are used to indipendently select wavetables on the fly. Wavetable one can be changed by pressing a normally open button/switch shorting D2 to ground; wavetable two with a button on D3. You cycle through waves at every button press. Waves are sine, triangular, saw, square and white noise in any combination, but they can be easily changed modifying the sketch.Two non latching buttons connected to D4 and D5 are used to set the pitch height of each wave. You can transpose the base pitch up two octaves and down one octave.The full code can be found HERE (Github).Please notice that I have left some code lines for functions I planned and implemented, but in the end I have disabled. In example, I had planned some sort of modulation for at least one of the two waves (vibrato) to give some additional movement to the base sound. It's disabled, but still there for future reference :)BOMThe board is intended to be mounted perpendicular to the front panel. If your case is not deep enought, you can lock the board on the case bottom and use wires to gain electrical connection with elements (potentiometers, buttons, jacks and so on) on the front panel.All components values are silkscreened on the PCB to make assembly easier.Follows the list of components:Microcontrollers- 1x Arduino nano (ATmega 328p, NOT ATmega168p)Capacitors- 1x 100n ceramic- 1x 4.7n ceramicResistors, Potentiometers, Trimmers- 4x 10K ohm potentiometer- 1x 10k ohm trimmer- 5x 1000 ohm resistor- 1x 200 ohm resistor- 1x 330 ohm resistor- 2x 1M metal film resistor (HIFI mode)- 1x 3900 metal film ohm (HIFI mode)- 1x 330 ohm (standard_plus mode)Diodes and optocouplers- 1x 6N138- 6x BAT42 Schottky- 1x 1N4148 Others- 1x DIN5 MIDI connector- 1x 2x8 IDC connector- 1x PCB switchFuture Plans - Paraphony!Realizing a single, two waves oscillator was incredibly fun. When I start thinking at what could be next, I cannot stop to figure that a polifonic chain of such wavetable oscillators would be awesome... one of the next projects could well be a midi controller for a stack* of wavetable oscillators like this, or eventually for any CV oscillator!* stack reasonably could mean four: I have these MCP4728 4 channels DACs on their way to me ... ;)

For a long time, I wanted to create a unique device to observe the presence of varying hazardous gases for a breadth of applications such as air quality monitoring and gas leak detection. Thus, I decided to develop this project.First of all, to elicit assiduous gas measuring results, I chose to utilize these MQ series gas sensors by connecting them to the Arduino Nano:MQ-2MQ-3MQ-4MQ-6MQ-9After choosing gas sensors for my device, I decided to control its settings and features with an IR remote control. Hence, I connected an IR remote receiver module to the Arduino Nano. Then, to display generated gas measurements, I used an ST7789 IPS screen.Finally, I added a buzzer and a 5mm common anode RGB LED to get notified when gases reach dangerous levels.As you may have known, the toxic gas compound manufactured by Joker (Joker Venom or Laughing Gas) is considered remarkably dangerous in DC Universe. Hence, I shaped my device inspired by Joker's appearance in comics as a reminder of the detrimental effects of gases.After completing wiring on a breadboard and testing the code, I designed my Joker-inspired PCB to complete my project. It became a stylish and intriguing addition to my workplace as an effective apparatus to monitor the presence of hazardous gases :)Step 1: Designing and soldering the Joker Remote Gas Station PCBBefore prototyping my PCB design, I tested all connections and wiring with the Arduino Nano on the breadboard.Then, I designed the Joker Remote Gas Station PCB by using KiCad. I attached the Gerber file of the PCB below, so if you want, you can order this PCB from PCBWay to create a fitting and apt apparatus to observe the presence of hazardous gases and get notified when they reach dangerous levels - inspired by malicious Joker :)First of all, by utilizing a soldering iron, I attached Arduino Nano, IR receiver module, MQ-2 gas sensor, MQ-3 gas sensor, MQ-4 gas sensor, MQ-6 gas sensor, MQ-9 gas sensor, headers (female), buzzer, 5mm common anode RGB LED, 220Ω resistors, 20K resistors, and power jack.Component list on the PCB:A1 (Arduino Nano)S1 (Headers for ST7789 IPS Screen)IR1 (IR Receiver Module)MQ2 (MQ-2 Gas Sensor)MQ3 (MQ-3 Gas Sensor)MQ4 (MQ-4 Gas Sensor)MQ6 (MQ-6 Gas Sensor)MQ9 (MQ-9 Gas Sensor)BZ1 (Buzzer)D1 (5mm Common Anode RGB LED)R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 (220Ω Resistor)R8, R9, R10, R11, R12 (20K Resistor)J1 (Power Jack)J2 (Headers for External Battery)Step 2: Programming Arduino Nano and setting up componentsDownload the required library to be able to control the IR receiver module:Arduino-IRremote | LibraryDownload the required libraries to be able to use the ST7789 240x240 IPS screen:Arduino_ST7789_Fast | LibraryAdafruit_GFX | Library? Include the required libraries.? Define the IR receiver module pin and settings.#include <Adafruit_GFX.h> #include <Arduino_ST7789_Fast.h> #include <IRremote.h> // Define the IR receiver module pin and settings. #define RECV_PIN 2 IRrecv irrecv(RECV_PIN); decode_results results; ? By executing the IRrecvDemo.ino file in Examples, obtain the required IR codes from the IR remote control and define them.#define up 0xFF18E7 #define down 0xFF4AB5 #define right 0xFF5AA5 #define left 0xFF10EF #define ok 0xFF38C7 ? Define the ST7789 240x240 IPS display settings.#define TFT_DC 10 #define TFT_RST 9 #define SCR_WD 240 #define SCR_HT 240 ? To display images on the ST7789 screen, convert them to .c files by using this image converter below:ImageConverter (UTFT)You can download the converted images I used in Downloads - gas.c, lethal.c, and toxic.c.? Include the converted images.#include "gas.c" #include "lethal.c" #include "toxic.c" ? Initiate the ST7789 240x240 IPS display.Arduino_ST7789 tft = Arduino_ST7789(TFT_DC, TFT_RST); ? Initiate the IR receiver module.? Start and clear the ST7789 240x240 IPS display. irrecv.enableIRIn(); tft.init(SCR_WD, SCR_HT); tft.fillScreen(RGBto565(235, 46, 0)); ? In the read_IR_controls function, collect IR codes from the IR remote control when transmitted.void read_IR_controls(){ // Read received IR codes from the IR remote control.if(irrecv.decode(&results)){ IR_codeValue = results.value; irrecv.resume(); delay(500); }else{ IR_codeValue = 0; } } ? In the collect_Data function, get gas measurements produced by MQ series gas sensors - MQ-2, MQ-3, MQ-4, MQ-6, and MQ-9.void collect_Data(){ // Get variables generated by the gas sensors. mq_2_val = analogRead(mq_2); mq_3_val = analogRead(mq_3); mq_4_val = analogRead(mq_4); mq_6_val = analogRead(mq_6); mq_9_val = analogRead(mq_9); } ? In the interface function, print the interface with menu options.void interface(){ // Print interface with menu options. tft.setTextColor(RGBto565(0, 38, 153), RGBto565(235, 46, 0)); tft.setTextSize(4); tft.setCursor(75, 25); tft.println("MQ-2"); tft.setCursor(75, 65); tft.println("MQ-3"); tft.setCursor(75, 105); tft.println("MQ-4"); tft.setCursor(75, 145); tft.println("MQ-6"); tft.setCursor(75, 185); tft.println("MQ-9"); } ? In the change_menu_options function, increase or decrease the option number by using the IR remote control buttons - Up and Down - to switch between menu options on the interface.void change_menu_options(){ // Increase or decrease the option number using the IR remote control buttons.if(IR_codeValue == up) selected--; if(IR_codeValue == down) selected++; if(selected < 0) selected = 5; if(selected > 5) selected = 1; delay(100); // Depending on the selected option number, change the boolean status.switch(selected){case 1: mq2 = true; mq3 = false; mq4 = false; mq6 = false; mq9 = false; break; case 2: mq2 = false; mq3 = true; mq4 = false; mq6 = false; mq9 = false; break; case 3: mq2 = false; mq3 = false; mq4 = true; mq6 = false; mq9 = false; break; case 4: mq2 = false; mq3 = false; mq4 = false; mq6 = true; mq9 = false; break; case 5: mq2 = false; mq3 = false; mq4 = false; mq6 = false; mq9 = true; break; } } Step 2.1: Displaying the presence of hazardous gasesTo detect the presence of hazardous gases, I utilized these five MQ series gas sensors:MQ-2MQ-3MQ-4MQ-6MQ-9MQ-2 gas sensor has a high sensitivity to LPG, Propane, and Hydrogen, also can be used to detect Methane and other combustible steam.MQ-3 gas sensor has a high sensitivity to Alcohol and has good resistance to gasoline, smoke, and vapor. This sensor can detect Alcohol with different concentrations.MQ-4 gas sensor has a high sensitivity to Methane, Propane, and Butane. This sensor can detect different combustible gases.MQ-6 gas sensor has a high sensitivity to Propane, Butane, and LPG, also response to Natural gas. This sensor can detect different combustible gases such as Natural gas, colorless flammable gaseous hydrocarbon consisting primarily of Methane and Ethane.MQ-9 gas sensor has a high sensitivity to Carbon Monoxide, Methane, and LPG. This sensor can detect different gases containing CO and combustible gases.As expected, after being connected to Arduino Nano, each sensor generates different value ranges depending on the amount of detectable hazardous gases.After testing, I assigned these levels below for each sensor empirically. Change them after testing your sensors if required.mq_2_val < 600 ? Low 600 < mq_2_val < 700 ? Moderate mq_2_val >= 700 ? Dangerous mq_3_val < 650 ? Low 650 < mq_3_val < 800 ? Moderate mq_3_val >= 800 ? Dangerous mq_4_val < 450 ? Low 450 < mq_4_val < 600 ? Moderate mq_4_val >= 600 ? Dangerous mq_6_val < 500 ? Low 500 < mq_6_val < 650 ? Moderate mq_6_val >= 650 ? Dangerous mq_9_val < 700 ? Low 700 < mq_9_val < 850 ? Moderate mq_9_val >= 850 ? Dangerous ? If a menu option is selected using the Up and Down buttons, highlight its name on the interface.? After being selected, if a menu option is activated using the OK button:? Collect and display the gas measurement value of the selected MQ series sensor with the converted images.? If the gas measurement value is Low according to the assigned levels, adjust the RGB LED to green.? If the gas measurement value is Moderate according to the assigned levels, adjust the RGB LED to yellow.? If the gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels, adjust the RGB LED to red and turn on the buzzer to notify the user.? By pressing the Left button, return to the interface. if(mq2){ do{ tft.setTextColor(RGBto565(0, 38, 153), WHITE); tft.setTextSize(4); tft.setCursor(75, 25); tft.println("MQ-2"); if(IR_codeValue == ok){ activated = true; tft.fillScreen(WHITE); while(activated){ read_IR_controls(); // Print data: collect_Data(); tft.setCursor(75, 25); tft.setTextColor(BLACK, WHITE); tft.setTextSize(4); tft.print(F("MQ-2")); tft.drawImageF(30, 80, 40, 40, gas); tft.drawImageF(100, 80, 40, 40, lethal); tft.drawImageF(170, 80, 40, 40, toxic); tft.setCursor(60, 160); tft.setTextSize(7); tft.print(mq_2_val); // Check gas status:if(mq_2_val < 600){ adjustColor(0, 255, 0); } else if(mq_2_val >= 600 && mq_2_val < 700){ adjustColor(255, 255, 0); } else if(mq_2_val >= 700){ adjustColor(255, 0, 0); tone(buzzer, 500, 1000); } // Exit and Close:if(IR_codeValue == left){ activated = false; tft.fillScreen(RGBto565(235, 46, 0)); adjustColor(0, 0, 0); noTone(buzzer); } } } }while(!mq2); } ... Step 2.2: Fixing the timer0_pin_port errorUnfortunately, when using the IR remote library and the tone library, the Arduino IDE throws the timer0_pin_port error. The error occurs because both libraries try to use the timer by declaring the same name - Timer2.To fix this issue, open the boarddefs.h or IRremoteBoardDefs.h file depending on the IR remote library version. Then, change IR_USE_TIMER2 to IR_USE_TIMER1 for Arduino Nano.Connections and Adjustments// Connections // Arduino Nano : // IR Receiver Module // D2 --------------------------- S // ST7789 240x240 IPS // GND --------------------------- GND // 3.3V -------------------------- VCC // D13 --------------------------- SCL // D11 --------------------------- SDA // D9 --------------------------- RES // D10 --------------------------- DC // MQ-2 Air Quality Sensor // A0 --------------------------- S // MQ-3 Air Quality Sensor // A1 --------------------------- S // MQ-4 Air Quality Sensor // A2 --------------------------- S // MQ-6 Air Quality Sensor // A3 --------------------------- S // MQ-9 Air Quality Sensor // A4 --------------------------- S // 5mm Common Anode RGB LED // D3 --------------------------- R // D5 --------------------------- G // D6 --------------------------- B // Buzzer // D7 --------------------------- + After completing soldering and uploading the code, I attached all remaining components to the board via headers - ST7789 240x240 IPS screen.Unluckily, even though Arduino Nano works at 5V, the current provided by Nano is not enough for five MQ series gas sensors to get heated and generate accurate gas measurements. Thus, I added a power jack (J1) and a connector (J2) to my PCB design to supply the sensors with an external battery (5V).Modes and Features???? The device shows five different MQ series sensors as menu options on the interface to display their gas measurements individually:MQ-2MQ-3MQ-4MQ-6MQ-9???? The device allows the user to switch between MQ series sensors (menu options) to observe their gas measurements via the IR remote control:Up Button ? Go UpDown Button ? Go DownOK Button ? Activate???? After activating any MQ series sensors by pressing the OK button of the IR remote control to display their gas measurements, the device lets the user return to the interface by pressing the Left button.?? MQ Series Sensors (Menu Options)???? If the MQ-2 option is selected and activated, the device shows its hazardous gas measurement value.???? Depending on the assigned measurement levels for the selected sensor (Step 2.1), the device adjusts the RGB LED:Green ? LowYellow ? ModerateRed ? Dangerous???? The device turns on the buzzer if the hazardous gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels.???? If the MQ-3 option is selected and activated, the device shows its hazardous gas measurement value.???? Depending on the assigned measurement levels for the selected sensor (Step 2.1), the device adjusts the RGB LED:Green ? LowYellow ? ModerateRed ? Dangerous???? The device turns on the buzzer if the hazardous gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels.???? If the MQ-4 option is selected and activated, the device shows its hazardous gas measurement value.???? Depending on the assigned measurement levels for the selected sensor (Step 2.1), the device adjusts the RGB LED:Green ? LowYellow ? ModerateRed ? Dangerous???? The device turns on the buzzer if the hazardous gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels.???? If the MQ-6 option is selected and activated, the device shows its hazardous gas measurement value.???? Depending on the assigned measurement levels for the selected sensor (Step 2.1), the device adjusts the RGB LED:Green ? LowYellow ? ModerateRed ? Dangerous???? The device turns on the buzzer if the hazardous gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels.???? If the MQ-9 option is selected and activated, the device shows its hazardous gas measurement value.???? Depending on the assigned measurement levels for the selected sensor (Step 2.1), the device adjusts the RGB LED:Green ? LowYellow ? ModerateRed ? Dangerous???? The device turns on the buzzer if the hazardous gas measurement value is Dangerous according to the assigned levels.Videos and ConclusionAfter completing all steps above, I placed the device on my desk by utilizing a plastic easel as an efficient assistant to detect the presence of hazardous gases in my workplace. It works impeccably :)

PCBWay 7th anniversary first version badge is coming.It is like Batman's darts,and we add PCB elements. The electronical compoments are more similar to others previus badges. More simple, no complicated and we don't need program any IC...only cool and funny.It has 12 flash leds. Just put a button battery, CR1220 (3V) on it, it's going to shine.You can purchase the badge here directly:Details:Size: 78.7 x 68.5mmSolder mask: Matte BlackSurface finish: ENIG(Note: Button Battery CR2032 is NOT included in the package.)https://www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/PCBWay_7th_Anniversary_Badge.html

Hey everyone What's up!So this is HEX Lightwhich is a DIY Studio Lighting Setup that consists of a total of 72 High Power Cree LEDs and they are powered by a 12V 5A SMPS. LEDs are driven by two separate LED Driver ICs and this whole setup cost less than 100$ to make which is still cheaper than other similar size studio light available in the market.Also, huge thanks to PCBWay for Supporting this project, Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at a relatively less cost.Question, why did I make this huge studio light?Well, the answer here is pretty simple, I required a proper lighting setup for my current maker setup and all I have were few LED Strips and a small studio lightbox that I recently made, they all were functional but not exactly great.The main goal here was to increase the lighting setup by not spending much on commercially available lights and make my own version of this studio light with aluminum extrusion and 3D Printed PartsMaterial Required These are the things that we need in our builtLEDs JK3030 Cree1.5 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package0.47 Ohms Resistance 1206 Package100uf Capacitor63uH IndictorSS34 Diode SMADC Barrel JackCustom PCB (which was provided by PCBWAY)Custom 3D Printed bodySIC9301A led driver ICAluminum Square Pipe/Extrusion12V SMPS Power SupplyBasic StructureA few weeks ago, I made this small yet powerful Studio Light Box, In that setup, I used SIC9301A LED Driver IC to driver 3V Cree LEDs.Studio Light Box Project was pretty handy and useful but it was not enough to illuminate the entire room, that is because of its number of LEDs. I required more LUX which can be acquired by adding more LEDs.But more LEDs mean more heat generation, so I prepared an Aluminum Extrusion based Light this time which is modeled in a HEXAGON Shape.I first prepared the Basic Structure in Fusion360 by measuring the Aluminum channel first and then creating its Support Bushes that will hold two channels at an internal angle of 120 Degree. After that, I placed 6 PCBs on each Hexagon side and use its measurement to make a custom PCB in the PCB Designing suite.PCB Designing and OrderingTo make any PCB, we first need to think about what we want to put in that PCB.In my case, I required 12 LEDs which are arranged in 3S 4P Config. To drive those LEDs, I needed a constant LED Driver IC and to power this whole setup, I required a DC Jack or a battery connector.After this planning, I started making the schematic of the main board then we Import the Netlist of our schematic to convert this it a PCB File.All PCB Designing suit works differently but this is a universal step, we first make a schematic, then assign each component their footprint and then convert the SCHEMATIC file into a Board File.After completing the board, I then exported the Gerber data for PCB and send it to PCBWay for samples.I received the PCBs in a week and they were mind-blowing. PCB Quality was pretty great and I just loved it, PCBWay, you guys rock!Check out PCBWay for getting great PCB Service at Less cost- The next Process is the PCB Assembly PCB AssemblyThe First step of the PCB Assembly is to add solder paste to each component one by one.Then we gather everything we need (which are LEDs) and place them in the right order one by one.Then we Carefully lift the PCB and put that on a Reflow Hotplate, the Hotplate will heat the PCB from Below and the solder paste will melt as soon as the hotplate temp reaches the solder paste melting temp.Few LEDs were shorted so one end of the tweezer, we need to move the led back and forth, by doing this, the solder paste between two pads will clear up and the shorting will not occur.After this, I carefully removed the PCB from the Hotplate and check the PCB by supplying 12V to its VCC Pads.Now, we required a total of 6 LED PCBs and two LED Driver Boards.LED Driver board assembly process is also the same, I first added solder paste to each component pad and then added the components to it.then I added it on the hotplate and let the solder paste melt and that was pretty much it.Body AssemblyThe main Component here is the aluminum Square pipe or aluminum extrusion which I bought from a Hardware store and the 3D Printed Parts that I model in Fusion 360 which holds two aluminum Pipes at an internal angle of 120°.I first marked and cut down 6 Pieces of aluminum pipe each of 230mm with a hex saw blade.after trimming their edges, I used the 3D Printed Bush to mark both sides of every Square pipe.Then I drill holes in each aluminum pipe with a 4mm Drill Bit.I had to do this same process for all the aluminum pipes, which really took time but after this hard work, I put everything together.Now we add M4 nuts and bolts to each side of the square pipe to tightly secure the Square pipe and 3D Printed part together.At last, I added the seventh pipe which will hold this structure.Also, I bought a cheap but great tripod to serve as a Hexlight base.I added HexLight on this tripod with the Tripod Mount (all the parts are attached including the Fusion360 File, Check them out for reference)Anyways, after making sure that everything is fine and dandy, I reassembled the Seventh Square Pipe so I could put LED PCBs on it.LED PCB & DRIVER ASSEMBLYwe start first by adding the LED PCB to each side of the Hexagon structure and making its Mounting holes.after marking a total of 12 holes, I used a 2mm drill to drill holes in all 12 holes. this took a while but after this, I used two 2.5mm Screws to tightly secure each of these LEDs with the aluminum pipe.You could add thermal grease or thermal compound in between the PCB to improve the heat flow rate but I didn't have any of them so I just screwed everything together. Now the LED DrIver PCBs will be mounted on the seventh pipe in this arrangement. both of them will be mounted sideways.To mount them, I used the same screws but I put these two washers in between the PCB and aluminum pipe surface to lift the PCB a little bit so it won't short on the aluminum surface.After putting them on the Square pipe, I then reattached it with the main body and then secure everything together with M4 screws nicely.WiringBy following the above wiring, I hook everything together.This Light comprises two halves, one side contains 3 PCBs each 12 LEDs so around 36 LEDs on one side and 36 on the other. 3 LED PCBs are connected in parallel and then one LED Driver Board is used to drive these three PCBs.POWER SOURCE/Final TweakFor Powering this setup, I used a 12V 5A SMPS Mighty power supply.To Toggle both segments individually, I have added a switch to each LED Driver Board so we can just Turn ON or OFF any two Light halves.After Wiring, I added the whole light back on the tripod with its mounting bracket, and our HexLight Setup is completed!Let's see few final shots of the Hex Light Setup now!FINAL RESULT and Additional Feature for a Future EditionSee how the lighting drastically improves when I turned on the Hexlight Setup to illuminate my table?Right Now, this setup doesn't have any brightness control setting which will let us increase or decrease the light intensity by the touch of a button.I will be adding this in the next version, Nothing really has to be changed for this feature, I will add a Mosfet as a Switch setup which will decrease/Increase the Light by PWM Dimming. But This is it, for now, leave a comment if you need any help with this project.Peace Out!

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the importance of social distance, which should be at least 1.5-2 meters, has increased. While this increase caused many new rules, it also brought some obligations.It is obvious that one of the most important of these obligations is the limit of the maximum number of people that can exist indoors.In an interior; for example, a cafe, a bakery, a grocery store, or a public toilet, etc. It is necessary to monitor the number of people inside and the distance of this number to the limit.piCounter is a device that will provide exactly this tracking and carry out the necessary pre-planned instructions.The piCounter will process the signals it receives from the ultrasonic sensors on it, count the people entering and leaving, and will give a warning when the limit is approached by showing the current number inside. When the limit is reached or no one is inside, it will do its part by carrying out the necessary pre-planned instructions (such as sounding an alarm when the limit is reached, activating the security system when no one is inside, and turning off the lights, etc.).piCounter can be easily transported and installed with the advantage of having an internal battery. The internal 18650 battery can be charged via the power panel, output can be obtained if desired. This battery is rechargeable, can be used as a power source. It can give linear 5V 1A output.piCounter is a customizable device. You can change the limit according to the place where you will install, and the direction of the entrance according to the door you will install from the set mode. When we set the distance to the door of the sensors with the potentiometer on the front panel can make a more accurate count.Range Adjustment Video: There are three push buttons used to adjust the person limit that can be indoor and also to adjust the entrance direction. When the left button is pressed once it will enable the set mode for the limit, each press on the middle button will decrease the limit and each press on the right button will increase the limit. The second press for the left button will enable the set mode for the direction of the entrance. The middle button will set the direction from the left to right and the right button will set the direction from the right to left. The third press on the left button will disable the setting mode.Limit and Entrance Direction Adjustment Video: With the potentiometer on the other side of the box, the brightness of the screen can be adjusted, the piCounter can be reset, or it can be turned off and on completely.Left Panel :It starts to flash when 2 people are left to the limit assigned by the led on it. When the limit is reached and the limit is exceeded, the LED lights continuously.Video Showing the Limit Working Principle:Code:I preferred object-oriented programming to work somewhat modularly and wrote the range finder and lcd classes to be reusable.import time from machine import Pin, ADC, PWM from range_finder import RangeFinder from gpio_lcd import GpioLcd class VisitorCounter(): def __init__(self): self.potValue = 0 self.counter = 0 self.first = 0 self.second = 0 self.prior = 0 self.limit = 2 self.time1 = 0 self.distance1 = 0 self.time2 = 0 self.distance2 = 0 self.limitRange = 0 self.doorRange = 0 self.pot = ADC(26) # the middle pin on the Potentiometer self.lcd = GpioLcd(rs_pin=Pin(7), enable_pin=Pin(9), d4_pin=Pin(10), d5_pin=Pin(11), d6_pin=Pin(12), d7_pin=Pin(13), num_lines=2, num_columns=16) self.led = Pin(25, Pin.OUT) self.warningLed = Pin(0, Pin.OUT) self.rangeFinderObject = RangeFinder(echo_pin=15, trigger_pin=14) self.rangeFinderObject2 = RangeFinder(echo_pin=21, trigger_pin=20) def setup(self): self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.move_to(0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Limit : " + str(self.limit)) time.sleep(2) self.lcd.clear() #time.sleep(0.01) self.lcd.move_to(0,0) # default cursor position is (0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Existing: " + str(self.counter)) self.setButton = Pin(16, Pin.IN, Pin.PULL_DOWN) self.decButton = Pin(17, Pin.IN, Pin.PULL_DOWN) self.incButton = Pin(18, Pin.IN, Pin.PULL_DOWN) """ Maps two ranges together """ def range_mapper(self,x, in_min, in_max, out_min, out_max): return int((x-in_min) * (out_max-out_min) / (in_max - in_min) + out_min) def run(self): while True: print("tt") if self.limit - self.counter <= 2 and self.limit - self.counter >0 and self.limit - self.counter != 0: self.warningLed.on() time.sleep(0.1) self.warningLed.off() time.sleep(0.1) elif self.limit - self.counter <= 0: self.warningLed.on() else: self.warningLed.off() if self.setButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) print("111") self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Current Limit : " + str(self.limit)) while True: if self.incButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) print("222") self.limit += 1 self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Current Limit : " + str(self.limit)) elif self.decButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) print("333") self.limit -= 1 self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Current Limit : " + str(self.limit)) elif self.setButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Set direction mode. (Right/Left)") while True: if self.incButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) self.rangeFinderObject2 = RangeFinder(echo_pin=15, trigger_pin=14) self.rangeFinderObject = RangeFinder(echo_pin=21, trigger_pin=20) self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Right to left.") elif self.decButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) self.rangeFinderObject = RangeFinder(echo_pin=15, trigger_pin=14) self.rangeFinderObject2 = RangeFinder(echo_pin=21, trigger_pin=20) self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.putstr("Left to right.") if self.setButton.value(): time.sleep(0.2) break #self.lcd.clear() print("set") break time.sleep(0.2) potValue = self.pot.read_u16() distanceLimit = self.range_mapper(potValue,600, 65535,0,330) self.doorRange = distanceLimit self.lcd.clear() self.lcd.move_to(0,0) # default cursor position is (0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Existing: " + str(self.counter)) self.lcd.move_to(0,1) self.lcd.putstr("Range: " + str(distanceLimit) + " cm") if(self.counter < 0): #reset self.counter = 0 self.first = 0 self.second = 0 self.prior = 0 # next 3 lines are equal to setup() method self.lcd.clear() #time.sleep(0.01) self.lcd.move_to(0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Existing: " + str(self.counter)) if(self.counter >= 3): self.led.on() else: self.led.off() print(self.counter) print(self.first," ",self.second," ",self.prior) self.distance1 = round(self.rangeFinderObject.find(),1) # distance calculated in cm print(self.distance1) if (self.distance1 < self.doorRange and self.distance1 != 0 and self.first == 0): # first sensor detected self.first = 1 if(self.prior == 0): self.prior = 1 print("first active") elif (self.distance1 > self.doorRange): self.first = 0 if(self.prior == 2 and self.first == 1 and self.second == 0): print("exit") self.counter -= 1 self.prior = 0 if self.counter < 0: self.counter = 0 # next 3 lines are equal to setup() method self.lcd.clear() #time.sleep(0.01) self.lcd.move_to(0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Existing: " + str(self.counter)) time.sleep(0.1) self.distance2 = round(self.rangeFinderObject2.find(),1) print(self.distance2) if(self.distance2 < self.doorRange and self.distance2 != 0 and self.second == 0): self.second = 1 print("second active") if(self.prior == 0 and self.first == 0): self.prior = 2 elif (self.distance2 > self.doorRange): self.second = 0 if(self.prior == 1 and self.first == 0 and self.second == 1): self.counter += 1 self.prior = 0 # next 3 lines are equal to setup() method self.lcd.clear() #time.sleep(0.01) self.lcd.move_to(0,0) self.lcd.putstr("Existing: " + str(self.counter)) print("entry") visitorCounter = VisitorCounter() visitorCounter.setup() visitorCounter.run() Libraries and classes required for this code to work:You can also download these codes from the bottom of the page.range_finder.pyfrom time import sleep_us, ticks_us from machine import Pin, ADC, PWM import time class RangeFinder(): duration = 0 distance = 0 def __init__(self, echo_pin, trigger_pin): self.__echo_pin = Pin(echo_pin, Pin.IN) self.__trigger_pin = Pin(trigger_pin, Pin.OUT) def find(self): self.__trigger_pin.low() sleep_us(2) self.__trigger_pin.high() sleep_us(5) self.__trigger_pin.low() signal_on = 0 signal_off = 0 while self.__echo_pin.value() == 0: signal_off = ticks_us() while self.__echo_pin.value() == 1: signal_on = ticks_us() elapsed_time = signal_on - signal_off self.duration = elapsed_time self.distance = (elapsed_time * 0.343) / 2 return self.distance / 10 gpio_lcd.py"""Implements a HD44780 character LCD connected via ESP32 GPIO pins.""" from lcd_api import LcdApi from machine import Pin from utime import sleep_ms, sleep_us class GpioLcd(LcdApi): """Implements a HD44780 character LCD connected via ESP32 GPIO pins.""" def __init__(self, rs_pin, enable_pin, d0_pin=None, d1_pin=None, d2_pin=None, d3_pin=None, d4_pin=None, d5_pin=None, d6_pin=None, d7_pin=None, rw_pin=None, backlight_pin=None, num_lines=2, num_columns=16): """Constructs the GpioLcd object. All of the arguments must be machine.Pin objects which describe which pin the given line from the LCD is connected to. When used in 4-bit mode, only D4, D5, D6, and D7 are physically connected to the LCD panel. This function allows you call it like GpioLcd(rs, enable, D4, D5, D6, D7) and it will interpret that as if you had actually called: GpioLcd(rs, enable, d4=D4, d5=D5, d6=D6, d7=D7) The enable 8-bit mode, you need pass d0 through d7. The rw pin isn't used by this library, but if you specify it, then it will be set low. """ self.rs_pin = rs_pin self.enable_pin = enable_pin self.rw_pin = rw_pin self.backlight_pin = backlight_pin self._4bit = True if d4_pin and d5_pin and d6_pin and d7_pin: self.d0_pin = d0_pin self.d1_pin = d1_pin self.d2_pin = d2_pin self.d3_pin = d3_pin self.d4_pin = d4_pin self.d5_pin = d5_pin self.d6_pin = d6_pin self.d7_pin = d7_pin if self.d0_pin and self.d1_pin and self.d2_pin and self.d3_pin: self._4bit = False else: # This is really 4-bit mode, and the 4 data pins were just # passed as the first 4 arguments, so we switch things around. self.d0_pin = None self.d1_pin = None self.d2_pin = None self.d3_pin = None self.d4_pin = d0_pin self.d5_pin = d1_pin self.d6_pin = d2_pin self.d7_pin = d3_pin self.rs_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.rs_pin.value(0) if self.rw_pin: self.rw_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.rw_pin.value(0) self.enable_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.enable_pin.value(0) self.d4_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d5_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d6_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d7_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d4_pin.value(0) self.d5_pin.value(0) self.d6_pin.value(0) self.d7_pin.value(0) if not self._4bit: self.d0_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d1_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d2_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d3_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.d0_pin.value(0) self.d1_pin.value(0) self.d2_pin.value(0) self.d3_pin.value(0) if self.backlight_pin is not None: self.backlight_pin.init(Pin.OUT) self.backlight_pin.value(0) # See about splitting this into begin sleep_ms(20) # Allow LCD time to powerup # Send reset 3 times self.hal_write_init_nibble(self.LCD_FUNCTION_RESET) sleep_ms(5) # need to delay at least 4.1 msec self.hal_write_init_nibble(self.LCD_FUNCTION_RESET) sleep_ms(1) self.hal_write_init_nibble(self.LCD_FUNCTION_RESET) sleep_ms(1) cmd = self.LCD_FUNCTION if not self._4bit: cmd |= self.LCD_FUNCTION_8BIT self.hal_write_init_nibble(cmd) sleep_ms(1) LcdApi.__init__(self, num_lines, num_columns) if num_lines > 1: cmd |= self.LCD_FUNCTION_2LINES self.hal_write_command(cmd) def hal_pulse_enable(self): """Pulse the enable line high, and then low again.""" self.enable_pin.value(0) sleep_us(1) self.enable_pin.value(1) sleep_us(1) # Enable pulse needs to be > 450 nsec self.enable_pin.value(0) sleep_us(100) # Commands need > 37us to settle def hal_write_init_nibble(self, nibble): """Writes an initialization nibble to the LCD. This particular function is only used during initialization. """ self.hal_write_4bits(nibble >> 4) def hal_backlight_on(self): """Allows the hal layer to turn the backlight on.""" if self.backlight_pin: self.backlight_pin.value(1) def hal_backlight_off(self): """Allows the hal layer to turn the backlight off.""" if self.backlight_pin: self.backlight_pin.value(0) def hal_write_command(self, cmd): """Writes a command to the LCD. Data is latched on the falling edge of E. """ self.rs_pin.value(0) self.hal_write_8bits(cmd) if cmd <= 3: # The home and clear commands require a worst # case delay of 4.1 msec sleep_ms(5) def hal_write_data(self, data): """Write data to the LCD.""" self.rs_pin.value(1) self.hal_write_8bits(data) def hal_write_8bits(self, value): """Writes 8 bits of data to the LCD.""" if self.rw_pin: self.rw_pin.value(0) if self._4bit: self.hal_write_4bits(value >> 4) self.hal_write_4bits(value) else: self.d3_pin.value(value & 0x08) self.d2_pin.value(value & 0x04) self.d1_pin.value(value & 0x02) self.d0_pin.value(value & 0x01) self.hal_write_4bits(value >> 4) def hal_write_4bits(self, nibble): """Writes 4 bits of data to the LCD.""" self.d7_pin.value(nibble & 0x08) self.d6_pin.value(nibble & 0x04) self.d5_pin.value(nibble & 0x02) self.d4_pin.value(nibble & 0x01) self.hal_pulse_enable() return self.distance / 10 lcd_api.py"""Provides an API for talking to HD44780 compatible character LCDs.""" import time class LcdApi: """Implements the API for talking with HD44780 compatible character LCDs. This class only knows what commands to send to the LCD, and not how to get them to the LCD. It is expected that a derived class will implement the hal_xxx functions. """ # The following constant names were lifted from the avrlib lcd.h # header file, however, I changed the definitions from bit numbers # to bit masks. # # HD44780 LCD controller command set LCD_CLR = 0x01 # DB0: clear display LCD_HOME = 0x02 # DB1: return to home position LCD_ENTRY_MODE = 0x04 # DB2: set entry mode LCD_ENTRY_INC = 0x02 # --DB1: increment LCD_ENTRY_SHIFT = 0x01 # --DB0: shift LCD_ON_CTRL = 0x08 # DB3: turn lcd/cursor on LCD_ON_DISPLAY = 0x04 # --DB2: turn display on LCD_ON_CURSOR = 0x02 # --DB1: turn cursor on LCD_ON_BLINK = 0x01 # --DB0: blinking cursor LCD_MOVE = 0x10 # DB4: move cursor/display LCD_MOVE_DISP = 0x08 # --DB3: move display (0-> move cursor) LCD_MOVE_RIGHT = 0x04 # --DB2: move right (0-> left) LCD_FUNCTION = 0x20 # DB5: function set LCD_FUNCTION_8BIT = 0x10 # --DB4: set 8BIT mode (0->4BIT mode) LCD_FUNCTION_2LINES = 0x08 # --DB3: two lines (0->one line) LCD_FUNCTION_10DOTS = 0x04 # --DB2: 5x10 font (0->5x7 font) LCD_FUNCTION_RESET = 0x30 # See "Initializing by Instruction" section LCD_CGRAM = 0x40 # DB6: set CG RAM address LCD_DDRAM = 0x80 # DB7: set DD RAM address LCD_RS_CMD = 0 LCD_RS_DATA = 1 LCD_RW_WRITE = 0 LCD_RW_READ = 1 def __init__(self, num_lines, num_columns): self.num_lines = num_lines if self.num_lines > 4: self.num_lines = 4 self.num_columns = num_columns if self.num_columns > 40: self.num_columns = 40 self.cursor_x = 0 self.cursor_y = 0 self.implied_newline = False self.backlight = True self.display_off() self.backlight_on() self.clear() self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ENTRY_MODE | self.LCD_ENTRY_INC) self.hide_cursor() self.display_on() def clear(self): """Clears the LCD display and moves the cursor to the top left corner. """ self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_CLR) self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_HOME) self.cursor_x = 0 self.cursor_y = 0 def show_cursor(self): """Causes the cursor to be made visible.""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL | self.LCD_ON_DISPLAY | self.LCD_ON_CURSOR) def hide_cursor(self): """Causes the cursor to be hidden.""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL | self.LCD_ON_DISPLAY) def blink_cursor_on(self): """Turns on the cursor, and makes it blink.""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL | self.LCD_ON_DISPLAY | self.LCD_ON_CURSOR | self.LCD_ON_BLINK) def blink_cursor_off(self): """Turns on the cursor, and makes it no blink (i.e. be solid).""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL | self.LCD_ON_DISPLAY | self.LCD_ON_CURSOR) def display_on(self): """Turns on (i.e. unblanks) the LCD.""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL | self.LCD_ON_DISPLAY) def display_off(self): """Turns off (i.e. blanks) the LCD.""" self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_ON_CTRL) def backlight_on(self): """Turns the backlight on. This isn't really an LCD command, but some modules have backlight controls, so this allows the hal to pass through the command. """ self.backlight = True self.hal_backlight_on() def backlight_off(self): """Turns the backlight off. This isn't really an LCD command, but some modules have backlight controls, so this allows the hal to pass through the command. """ self.backlight = False self.hal_backlight_off() def move_to(self, cursor_x, cursor_y): """Moves the cursor position to the indicated position. The cursor position is zero based (i.e. cursor_x == 0 indicates first column). """ self.cursor_x = cursor_x self.cursor_y = cursor_y addr = cursor_x & 0x3f if cursor_y & 1: addr += 0x40 # Lines 1 & 3 add 0x40 if cursor_y & 2: # Lines 2 & 3 add number of columns addr += self.num_columns self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_DDRAM | addr) def putchar(self, char): """Writes the indicated character to the LCD at the current cursor position, and advances the cursor by one position. """ if char == '\n': if self.implied_newline: # self.implied_newline means we advanced due to a wraparound, # so if we get a newline right after that we ignore it. pass else: self.cursor_x = self.num_columns else: self.hal_write_data(ord(char)) self.cursor_x += 1 if self.cursor_x >= self.num_columns: self.cursor_x = 0 self.cursor_y += 1 self.implied_newline = (char != '\n') if self.cursor_y >= self.num_lines: self.cursor_y = 0 self.move_to(self.cursor_x, self.cursor_y) def putstr(self, string): """Write the indicated string to the LCD at the current cursor position and advances the cursor position appropriately. """ for char in string: self.putchar(char) def custom_char(self, location, charmap): """Write a character to one of the 8 CGRAM locations, available as chr(0) through chr(7). """ location &= 0x7 self.hal_write_command(self.LCD_CGRAM | (location << 3)) self.hal_sleep_us(40) for i in range(8): self.hal_write_data(charmap[i]) self.hal_sleep_us(40) self.move_to(self.cursor_x, self.cursor_y) def hal_backlight_on(self): """Allows the hal layer to turn the backlight on. If desired, a derived HAL class will implement this function. """ pass def hal_backlight_off(self): """Allows the hal layer to turn the backlight off. If desired, a derived HAL class will implement this function. """ pass def hal_write_command(self, cmd): """Write a command to the LCD. It is expected that a derived HAL class will implement this function. """ raise NotImplementedError def hal_write_data(self, data): """Write data to the LCD. It is expected that a derived HAL class will implement this function. """ raise NotImplementedError def hal_sleep_us(self, usecs): """Sleep for some time (given in microseconds).""" time.sleep_us(usecs) A piece of code where you can make sample applications for the LCD screen.from machine import Pin from gpio_lcd import GpioLcd # Create the LCD object lcd = GpioLcd(rs_pin=Pin(8), enable_pin=Pin(9), d4_pin=Pin(10), d5_pin=Pin(11), d6_pin=Pin(12), d7_pin=Pin(13), num_lines=2, num_columns=16) # #The following line of codes should be tested using the REPL # # #1. To print a string to the lcd, you can use lcd.putstr('Hello world!') # #2. Now, to clear the display. # lcd.clear() # #3. and to exactly position the cursor location # lcd.move_to(1,1) # # If you do not set the cursor position, # # the character will be displayed in the # # default cursor position starting from # # 0, x and 0, y location which is the top left-hand side. # # There are other useful functions we can use in using the lcd. # #4. Show the cursor # lcd.show_cursor() # #5. Hide the cursor # lcd.hide_cursor() # #6. Turn ON blinking cursor # lcd.blink_cursor_on() # #7. Turn OFF blinking cursor # lcd.blink_cursor_off() # #8. Disable display # lcd.display_off() # this will only hide the characters # #9. Enable display # lcd.display_on() # #10. Turn backlight OFF # lcd.backlight_off() # #11. Turn backlight ON # lcd.backlight_on() # # 12. Print a single character # lcd.putchar('x') # but this will only print 1 character # #13. Display a custom characters # happy_face = bytearray([0x00,0x0A,0x00,0x04,0x00,0x11,0x0E,0x00]) # lcd.custom_char(0, happy_face) # lcd.putchar(chr(0)) Future Works:The data can be transferred to a smartphone or any other device through a wireless protocol. That will allow people to monitor from another place and will maintain the portability of the device.The set mode code can be added to adjust the distance from the limit variable which is 2 now.If you like this project that I have done to be less affected by the covid-19 pandemic, I would be very grateful if you do not forget to vote and like.Thank you for reading my article and reviewing my project.Stay in touch with electronics.e-mail : agoktugaydin.ece@gmail.commedium blog : https://agoktugaydin.medium.com/youtube : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGHJt1cBOxA5xkZSUaCg2vA

INTRODUCTIONSince I was six, I thought it would be cool to make my own web caster. Not knowing much then, I thought I could have an explosive shoot out fishing line with a suction cup on the end and it could do the trick. 3D printers were just getting somewhat affordable and we didn't have one at the time. So, the project idea was shelved. Since then, my Dad and I have become Makers. It gave me a thought, what if in the Spider-Verse there was another character - say, 14 years old, only child, grew up with old motors and mechanical parts in the basement and electronics tools. He's accumulated two 3D printers and a welder. At 9, he started a Maker channel (Raising Awesome). His dad impulse bought a sewing machine on Prime Day, and THEN, at 14, he was bitten by the radioactive Maker bug...well arachnid. He was a Maker first - then got his Spidey powers. What would that character be like?So, we dreamed up a Webslinger Gauntlet and Spidey-Sense Visual AI Circuit.PROJECT DESIGNWebslingerThe webslinger gauntlet houses a 16gram CO2 cartridge to use a burst of pressure to shoot out a hook that is tethered with Kevlar. No MCU is needed for this, just a valve like you find for inflating bike tires. It will has a motor in the gauntlet to retrack the Kevlar. Spider-SenseThe camera & proximity sensor was sewn into the back of the shirt. The Raspberry Pi A+ served as a brain for the full suit, controlling all sensors and cameras within the suit. Along with that, we used a Pi SenseHat with its built in RGB display to change logos like when the "Spidey Sense" is triggered. With the timing of this contest, I was able to score one last Halloween costume.You can find the model on our GitHub site: https://github.com/RaisingAwesome/Spider-man-Into-the-Maker-Verse/tree/master.This is the code to trigger the RGB and vibration:from sense_hat import SenseHat import time import RPi.GPIO as GPIO # GPIO Mode (BOARD / BCM) GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM) # set GPIO Pins GPIO_ECHO = 9 GPIO_TRIGGER = 10 GPIO_VIBRATE = 11 # set GPIO direction (IN / OUT) GPIO.setup(GPIO_TRIGGER, GPIO.OUT) GPIO.setup(GPIO_ECHO, GPIO.IN) GPIO.setup(GPIO_VIBRATE, GPIO.OUT) sense = SenseHat() g = (0, 255, 0) b = (0, 0, 255) y = (255, 255, 0) w = (255,255,255) r = (204, 0, 0) a1 = [ b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, r, r, r, b, b, b, b, b, r, r, b, b, b, r, r, r, r, r, r, r, r, b, b, b, r, r, b, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b ] a2 = [ b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, r, r, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, r, b, b, r, b, r, r, r, r, r, r, b, r, b, b, r, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b ] a3 = [ r, b, b, b, b, b, b, r, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, r, r, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, r, b, b, r, b, r, r, r, r, r, r, b, r, b, b, r, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, r, b, b, b, r, b, b, b, b, r, b ] def animate(): # dist is given in feet. # speed is calculated by a linear equation y=mx+b where b=0 and m=.1 sense.set_pixels(a1) time.sleep(.05*distance()) sense.set_pixels(a2) time.sleep(.05*distance()) sense.set_pixels(a1) time.sleep(.05*distance()) sense.set_pixels(a3) time.sleep(.05*distance()) def distance(): # Returns distance in feet StartTime = time.time() timeout = time.time() timedout = False # set Trigger to HIGH to get the system ready GPIO.output(GPIO_TRIGGER, True) # set Trigger after 0.00001 seconds (10us) to LOW to send out a ping from the sensor time.sleep(.00010) GPIO.output(GPIO_TRIGGER, False) # so we don't wait forever, set a timeout to break out if anything goes wrong. while GPIO.input(GPIO_ECHO) == 0: # if we don't get a response to let us know its about to ping, move on. # the sensor should trigger, do its thing, and start reporting back in milliseconds. StartTime = time.time() if (time.time()>timeout+.025): timedout=True break #print("Echo from low to high trap timed-out: ",timedout) timeout = StartTime StopTime=StartTime while GPIO.input(GPIO_ECHO) == 1: # if we don't get a bounce back on the sensor with the top of its range of detection, move on. # Ultrasonic travels at the speed of sound, so it should pong back at least this # fast for things within the top of its dectection range. timedout=False StopTime = time.time() if (time.time()>timeout+.025): timedout=True break #print("Echo from High back to Low timed-out: ",timedout) # record the time it ponged back to the sensor # time difference between start and arrival TimeElapsed = StopTime - StartTime # multiply with the sonic speed (34300 cm/s) # and divide by 2, because it has to get there over the distance and back again # then convert to feet by dividing all by 30.48 cm per foot distance = (TimeElapsed * 17150)/30.46 #print("Distance: ",distance) if (distance<.1): distance=5 distance=round(distance) if distance<5: vibrate() return distance def vibrate(): #if something is very close, vibrate the spidey-sense #code pending GPIO.output(GPIO_VIBRATE, True) time.sleep(.1) GPIO.output(GPIO_VIBRATE, False) # The next line will allow for this script to play stand alone, or you can # import the script into another script to use all its functions. if __name__ == '__main__': try: GPIO.output(GPIO_TRIGGER, False) GPIO.output(GPIO_VIBRATE, False) time.sleep(1) while True: animate() # The next line is an example from the SenseHat library imported: # sense.show_message("Sean Loves Brenda and Connor!!", text_colour=yellow, back_colour=blue, scroll_speed=.05) # Handle pressing CTRL + C to exit except KeyboardInterrupt: print("\n\nSpiderbrain execution stopped.\n") GPIO.cleanup() Visual AIIf you've seen Spider-man: Homecoming, you'd know about the all new Stark branded AI, Karen, that Peter uses in his mask to assist him in missions. Karen was designed to be able to highlight threats and alert Peter of his surroundings, along with controlling many of his suit functions. While making an AI chatbot that responds with a voice and sense of emotion may not be the easiest thing to accomplish for this competition, we did think ahead to include a way to create this artificial "Spidey-Sense." We decided now would be a good time to take advantage of the surge in popularity of the Microsoft Azure, and the Machine Vision API provided by Microsoft.We built a "see-in-the dark" solution with the Raspberry Pi Model A and a NoIR camera: The Microsoft Computer Vision cloud service is able to analyze things in an image which is taken by the Raspberry Pi camera (aka my Pi-der cam) that is mounted to a belt. To activate this super sixth sense, I have to be very still. Once the accelerometer of the Sense Hat stabilizes, the picture is taken automatically. Using my cell phone's personal hot spot, the Azure API analyzes the image and the Raspberry Pi's eSpeak package let's me know through an earpiece. This allows the suit to be able to tell if a car is close behind me, or maybe an evil villain.Python Visual AI for Microsoft Azure Machine Vision:import os import requests from picamera import PiCamera import time # If you are using a Jupyter notebook, uncomment the following line. # %matplotlib inline import matplotlib.pyplot as plt from PIL import Image from io import BytesIO camera = PiCamera() # Add your Computer Vision subscription key and endpoint to your environment variables. subscription_key = "YOUR KEY HERE!!!" endpoint = "https://westcentralus.api.cognitive.microsoft.com/" analyze_url = endpoint + "vision/v2.0/analyze" # Set image_path to the local path of an image that you want to analyze. image_path = "image.jpg" def spidersense(): camera.start_preview() time.sleep(3) camera.capture('/home/spiderman/SpiderBrain/image.jpg') camera.stop_preview() # Read the image into a byte array image_data = open(image_path, "rb").read() headers = {'Ocp-Apim-Subscription-Key': subscription_key, 'Content-Type': 'application/octet-stream'} params = {'visualFeatures': 'Categories,Description,Color'} response = requests.post( analyze_url, headers=headers, params=params, data=image_data) response.raise_for_status() # The 'analysis' object contains various fields that describe the image. The most # relevant caption for the image is obtained from the 'description' property. analysis = response.json() image_caption = analysis["description"]["captions"][0]["text"].capitalize() the_statement="espeak -s165 -p85 -ven+f3 \"Connor. I see " +\"" + image_caption +"\" --stdout | aplay 2>/dev/null" os.system(the_statement) #print(image_caption) spidersense() BUILD VIDEOTo see this all come together, here is our build video:

First of all, I'm a 15 years old student. And sometimes when you're working on a computer, you have to press some key combinations. Creating a new document for online school or opening the browser. Sometimes that can be quite annoying. So I thought, why not making a cost-effective Macro-Keyboard with a Raspberry Pi Pico and some satisfying CherryMX-Keyswitches - And that's what I did. It's 100mmx61mm PCB. It consists of 12 CherryMX-Keyswitches. I used green ones, but you can choose any type of CherryMX-Keyswitch. Every Button can be lit individually. So therefore you also need 12 3mm-LED's. I used green ones for the Razer- Look. But you can of course use any color. Next up you need 6 5mm-WS2812B with 6 0603 100nF-Capacitors. If you choose not to use RGB-LED's, you can also leave the WS2812B-LED's and the capacitors behind. As a Pullup-Resistor you'll also need 12 0603 Resistors. I used 1K. I also recommend to use a good USB-Connector. I used a USB-B-Female Connector for better stability. Because the Micro-USB-port on the RaspberryPi-Pico itself can be ripped off very easily (trust me ;). If you want to build one yourself, follow the following steps:Gather the PCBFirst you need to download the gerber-file given below. To support me, you can directly buy it over the "Add to cart"-Button. 10% will be distributed to me ;)Gather the componentsThese are the components needed for my build:12 x CherryMX-Keyswitches12 x 1K 0603 Resistors12 x 3mm TH-LED's 6 x WS2812B-LED's (5mm)6 x 100nF 0603 Capacitor1 x Encoder1 x USB-B-Female-Connector1 x Raspberry Pi PicoWiresSolder everything togetherNow it's soldering time! :)This soldering-project is very beginner-friendly and can be made by anyone!But before starting to solder: Please make sure to solder the middle 3 Buttons first before soldering the Pi Pico in place. Because you can't solder on the button, LED's and Resistors when the Pi Pico is already soldered on. And that's basically it. Now you just need to program the whole thing. You have 2 possibilities: CircuitPython and Arduino IDE. I prefer the Arduino IDE. But unfortunately there are not many libraries supported by the Pi Pico yet.Programming