In my other projects, I have demonstrated the power of the Ameba RTL8720D based IoT microcontroller via using their development board. However, when come to deployment or commercialization, we need as little "non-essential" components as possible so as to cut the cost and make more profit, here I am gonna show you how to DIY a minimalist 5G hz WiFi & BLE microcontroller using easy-to-find itemsDevelopment board that involves RF module and antenna design is generally alot harder to design and commercialize, as designing RF circuit can be challenging and yet once designed you have to get your design approved (e.g. FCC) before it can enter the consumer electronics market. That's why, it's a lot easier to design with a pre-certified RF stamp module.A stamp module contains only the bare minimal components that ensure it can be implemented by other customers easily, it's small and usually Not-For-Beginners, as there is,No programming circuit (e.g. USB-Serial module) No power regulating circuit (LDO or DCDC circuit)No breadboard friendly 2.54 pitch pin headersNo USB connectorHowever, it also means it's A lot CHEAPER than off-the-shelf dev boardA lot SMALLERMany room to improviseTherefore, if you think the good overweighed tha bad like I do, then this project is for you~The main IoT stamp module used here is the same module showcased in my other project , RTL8720DN (BW16) IoT microcontroller, the IC is from Realtek, but stamp module is designed by AI-Thinker, a well-known module manufacturer based in Mainland China.There are many interesting projects developed for this IC, you can find out more onhttps://www.instructables.com/RTL8720DN/More technical details,https://www.amebaiot.com/en/ameba-arduino-summary/

New April 2022 update!So far the state of the project:Finished / pros:-Cheap and use very few parts-Rechargeable, the LIC works really nice and it recharges quickly, also no dropping.-The microcontroller manages the charging so no need to add a voltage regulator.-It can be flashed with the usb cable, not standard though, UPDI needs to be feed intro the D+ signal of USB with a flashing solution like serial to UPDI, I know it isn't standard but it is very convenient and it works really well.-Now charging works ok using a mosfet controlled by timer A .-Sleep is implemented.To do / cons:-Still some concern about the charging voltage during sleep, need more testing, I am disabling the timer in sleep mode and returning the control to portmux.- Although using the usb to feed the UPDI signal is practical, I don't know if it would damage a computer if it is connected to it, it shouldn't since the UPDI is pulled up with a 30k resistor but still a concern.In case of connecting it directly to USB by mistake, using the UPDI adapter to send the signal is ok. I tested once and nothing happened but doing it repeatedly is another story.- 4k of flash is a small amount, in my case I have to chop content of the game, someone with more knowledge I am sure can fit more, considering in using a bigger micro????.

What is Class D Amplifier?As the name suggests D, is a digital amplifier. It is also known as a switching amplifier that uses the transistors and MOSFETs as electronic switches and performs quickly switching between the supply rails. There is a modulator available in this amplifier that shifts the sampling frequency to the highest frequency. That is why they are used in audio amplifiers to enhance the quality of sound. Using pulse width modulation, this amplifier converts the input (analog) signal to digital pulses. Their efficiency varies from 80% to 95%.Schematic Diagram:I have used the Altium designer to design my schematic diagram. First of all, I have created the symbols and footprints of all the components then I have designed my schematic. I have uploaded my schematic file online on Inventhub for the users who want to implement my design. They can go to the provided link and can view or download my design easily. I can also view the changes I have made in my design by going to the ‘view changes’ tab. I can also collaborate with the people, they can comment on my design and can give suggestions to improve my design further.PCB Board Design:I have converted my schematic file to the PCB file in Altium, where I can create connections on the board, define the shape of the board, arrange the components on the board, and can view my PCB in 3D view. I have uploaded my PCB file on Inventhub, where I can view my boards in different layers and can focus on a specific layer by disabling the other layers. Users and manufacturers can easily view or download my design for the implementation. Users do not need to design the symbols and footprints, they can download those parts from my components management library on Inventhub. This can help in reducing the errors in the design.Bill of Materials:After the fabrication of the board, I created a list of components on Inventhub which contains the details of the manufacturer, supplier, manufacturer part number, pricing, and quantity. By just putting these details in the BOM file on Inventhub, it has calculated the total cost of the design automatically using the supply chain option. I can also view the datasheet of the component and can view its 3D model. For this project, our cost is almost $17.23 which is reasonable.Instead of visiting the component provider, I can send him this BOM file, he can download it in CSV file format and can deliver my components as per my design requirements.

This video shows the motorized roller blind, which can be fixed to both ceiling and wall, compatible with various roller blind sizes, controlled via a WiFi using stepper motor and ESP8266.A few basic items are required for assembly and circuit build:Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 WiFi Board28BYJ-48 Stepper MotorULN2003x Stepper Motor Driver608zz BearingL7805 Voltage RegulatorCapacitor9V-12V Power SupplyBreadboardJumper WiresSource Code:Two things are required when programming Wemos D1 Mini and similar boards with ESP8266 chip. You will need add-on to programming the ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE.Open the shared source code with the Arduino IDE. First, install the ESP8266 add-on to program the Wemos D1 Mini.File > Preferences. Enter the ESP8266 add-on URL into the “Additional Boards Manager URLs”http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json Go to Tools > Board > Boards Manager. Search the ESP8266 and installGo to Tools > Board > Select the Wemos D1 MiniDefine the pins to which the stepper motors are connected. Remember, you must define pin numbers as GPIOEnter your Wifi SSDI and Password

The original Gerber files and BOM can be found at: https://github.com/chris-jh/mt32-pi-midi-hatThis HAT is intended to be used with the MT32-pi project (https://github.com/dwhinham/mt32-pi). This project emulates a Roland MT-32 module, and also supports external sound fonts, making it possible to emulate other modules like Yamaha XG, Roland Sound Canvas, etc.The Roland MT-32 MIDI module was supported with many, many PC/Atari/Amiga/Sharp 68000 games during the 90's and 2000's.It supports an external PCM5102 I2S DAC for great sound quality, and supports 128x32 and 128x64 OLED display, simple control buttons or an external rotary encoder.

About the ET-GC01:The ET-GC01 is the standalone version of our DIY ESP32/ESP8266 Geiger Counter. For more information check our BLOG post at: https://espthings.io/gc01About us:For a number of years, we, Michel and Paul, have been interested in the fascinating world of home automation. Where in the past the software was very much connected to the hardware you bought, nowadays there are a number of very nice open-source home automation software packages available.The software we both like the most is ‘Home Assistant’. It’s great software with support for a lot of types of sensors and devices. The best thing is that it supports homemade hardware sensors and devices! We noticed that a lot of people like to make hardware themselves. We also recognized a lack of well-designed circuits which can safely be built by people with not too much experience with electronics.Another thing we found many times searching around the web, is that published and shared designs were often PCB’s which were not designed to fit in a nice enclosure. Because of these issues we came up with the idea to start this website, espthings.io, where we will publish our own designs which can be easily built by everyone!For this project instructions and software configuration are freely available to ensure the project will be successful and works ‘as expected’. And lastly, we will always ensure that the PCB will fit in a nice enclosure, so that the finished project not only looks nice, but is also safe.Our goal is to ensure that everybody can build our projects. If you can’t wait to get started building, please read the ‘general information page’ first.If you enjoy our designs, please leave a comment and subscribe to our youtube channel, to help us grow the website and channel!

BARE METAL COMMODORE 64 EMULATOR(GPIO CONFIG2) (GEEKS' EDITION)Many thanks to Randy Rossi for BMC64 project.You can donate to Randy Rossi: https://accentual.com/bmc64/Hello,This is an Easy DIY project, all components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;)BMC64 is a bare metal fork of VICE's C64 emulator optimized for the Raspberry Pi. It has 50hz/60hz smooth scrolling, low video/audio latency and a number of other features that make it perfect for building your own C64 replica machine. For more details visit the github link below.GitHub Link: https://github.com/randyrossi/bmc64INSTRUCTIONS:Download the 20MB Zip file from this linkhttps://archive.org/download/bmc-64-sdcard/BMC64SDCARD.zipFormat SD-Card Fat32Unzip the BMC64SDCARD.zip and copy the files into the SD-CARDInsert SD Card into Raspberry PiConnect the cables,(Last cable should be power source cable)Press Commodore key and F7 key together and release to enter BMC64 MENUGeeks' Edition consists of two parts that can be separated as a C64 keyboard and a Raspberry Pi GPIO Hat. In this way, you can connect the Raspberry Pi GPIO Hat part to a real C64 keyboard and use it. Apart from that, you can also use the keyboard part of PCB by connecting it to the Commodore 64 motherboard or for other different projects. The keyboard part has the same matrix structure as the real Commodore 64 keyboard.If you want faceplate applicable version PCB of this project , you can find it in the link below.https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/DIY_COMMODORE_64_BMC64_CONFIG_2_WITH_WORKING_C64_KEYBOARD_8ebb9171.htmlMany thanks to artist Cem Tezcan (Blockmind) for his patience and contribution to working together.COMPONENTS:Raspberry Pi (compatible with BMC64 project)Micro SD Card2pcs. right angle DB9M 9 pin D-sub male connector.2x20 pin double row 2.54 pitch female header65pcs. 6x6x5mm 4-pin through hole tactile buttons3mm Red LED470ohm - 1K 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes LEDs brightness)Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.

Hello,This PCB is a Commodore 64 tactile buttons keyboard faceplate for some of my projects.It is produced especially for aesthetic purposes, it is not mandatory.I prefer white soldermask with Black silkscreen,For 1.6mm PCB thickness. 65pcs. of the 6x6x7mm 4-pin through hole tactile buttons are required.6 fixing screw holes and power LED hole are 3mm in diameter.Many thanks to artist Cem Tezcan (Blockmind) for his patience and contribution to working together.You may be interested in:COMMODORE 64 USB KEYBOARD project.COMMODORE 64 TACTILE BUTTON MINI KEYBOARDDIY COMMODORE 64 (BMC64 GPIO CONFIG-2)Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!Use this PCB at your own risk !Have funThank you.

BulkyMIDI-32 is based on the mt32-pi project, bringing you the all the auditory excellence that was the Roland MT32. It's emulation, but it's an obtainable package that won't cost more than my current car. Widely considered to be the ultimate in retro MIDI-modules, it's the audio card every 90s PC gamer eventually found out was never actually an audio card and instead its own thing completely separate from your computer.The BulkyMIDI-32 was my attempt at building something that would look nice on my desk while playing all of those classic Sierra games. After putting it together I took stock of all the features I had originally wanted on it, but I realized that I would need an additional board just to physically fit all of the connectors and larger components needed. And so - work on extras board was started with the aim of implementing the following features:Providing an option for mounting RS232-modules for level translationAn Atmega328 MCU for performing baud rate translation of these signals when connecting a real Roland MT-32 to a PCs serial port. This is due to the MIDI standard using a baud rate that would be well outside of what the serial port can be configured to provide, at least without physically changing the crystal on the hardware.Passive two-channel audio mixer, allowing you to mix the sound effects coming from the sound card with that of the MIDI module without dealing with configuring a mixer in software on the card.Status LEDsThree extra MIDI ports that can individually be configured to serve as additional MIDI OUT or THRU ports.Able to mount a rotary encoder for use with the main module.This is the extras module, check out the related shared projects for any additional modules - these include extra functionality in addition to the faceplates shown in the images. While the baud rate translation feature as well as the passive audio mixer can be used standalone, the extras board was designed for use with the main BulkyMIDI-32 module.This is revision C of the board, it has the potentiometer and rotary encoder spaced a bit out to allow for slightly larger knobs. Additionally, the circuit for the activity LED was changed - instead of flickering on and off at a very high frequency, a 555 is used to light it up more consistently.

Breadboard and beginner-friendly RA-02 Breakout ModuleMost Makers and electronics enthusiasts may already know of the RA-02 LoRa Module. Many of them might own an RA-02 Breakout module or two... For those who do, they will surely know about the problems encountered with using this particular breakout module...The RA-02 module, in itself, is a great piece of kit, and when used on a custom PCB, which was designed with all the little secrets of this module taken into consideration, is a pleasure. Using the RA-02 breakout module, in its existing form factor, does however present quite a few unique challenges, which, if you are unaware of them, can cause quite a few frustrating moments, or even result in permanent damage to the module... What are these challenges:1) The module is based on the SX1278 chip from Semtech and is a 3v device. The IO pins are NOT 5v compatible but seem to work for a few hours or so when used with 5v... This causes many people, especially on Youtube, to assume that it is ok to send 5v logic signals to this module... I have still not seen any Youtube video telling viewers to at least use a resister divider or logic converter... People just don't know, and those that know seem to be keeping quiet!Adding logic converters is in fact specified by the datasheet.2) Adding logic converters means adding additional wiring, and for a breadboard based project, that adds to the complexity.3) You have a total of 4 ground pins that need to be connected. not connecting all of them, causes funny things to happen, from overheating down to failure... ( My personal experience while researching this project)4) The existing breakout module is not breadboarding compatible, resulting in a floating assembly with wires going everywhere, which results in unstable connections etc...Basically something similar to the picture below:In this picture, I have an existing RA-02 Breakout Module, with an 8 channel Logic converter and an Arduino Uno clone, along with all the needed wiring to make this setup possible... Quite a lot of wires indeed... My solution:I design and use quite a few LoRa PCBs and on all of them, I implement logic conversion using the BSS138 N-MOS Mosfet and 10k resistors. It is a cheap and reliable solution, but it can take up quite a lot of space on a PCB, as this means 11 Mosfets and 22 10k resistors if I were to provide level conversion to all of the RA-02's GPIO and IO pins... I also have the constant problem of many unnecessary wires, many of which sometimes fail straight out of the box, when prototyping something. I partly solved that by designing a few dedicated PCB solutions, but that is not always ideal, Using a dedicated Logic Converter IC, and Mosfet based converters to make up the difference, on a breadboard compatible module, seemed like a good idea, so I went ahead and designed the following solution:The breakout board module is breadboard compatible, and also has clearly marked pins to indicate the 3v and 5v sides of the module. Testing the Module:Using a 5v device ( Cytron's Maker Uno )For my first test, I decided to test with an Arduino Uno Clone, since that is what most Makers and students will have access to. I used Cytron's Maker Uno platform, which is equipped with some added goodies, in the form of diagnostic LED etc to make prototyping a lot easier. As we can clearly see, It is only necessary to connect to the 5v logic side of the module, as well as provide 3v and 5v + GND to the moduleIn this test, I used Sandeep Mistry's LoRa Library, with the Arduino IDE to do a quick test sketch. Connections are as follows:RA-02 Module Maker UnoMISO D12MOSI D11SCK D13NSS D10RST D9DIO0 D2OE D8( Full code will be provided as a download below)Let us look at some important sections though, to thoroughly understand how to use the module:Pin Declaration#include <SPI.h> // include libraries#include <LoRa.h> // I used Sandeep Mistry's LoRa Library, as it is easy to use and understandconst int csPin = 10; // LoRa radio chip selectconst int resetPin = 9; // LoRa radio resetconst int irqPin = 2; // change for your board; must be a hardware interrupt pinconst int OEPin = 8; // Output Enable Pin, to enable the Logic ConverterIn the Setup function, we need to do a bit of extra work, since our Maker Uno ( or your Arduino Uno ) is a 5v device...void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); // initialize serial pinMode(OEPin,OUTPUT); // Setup the OE pin as an Outout digitalWrite(OEPin,HIGH); // and Pull it High to enable the logic converter while (!Serial); Serial.println("LoRa Duplex - Set spreading factor"); // override the default CS, reset, and IRQ pins (optional) LoRa.setPins(csPin, resetPin, irqPin); // set CS, reset, IRQ pin if (!LoRa.begin(433E6)) { // initialize ratio at 433 MHz Serial.println("LoRa init failed. Check your connections."); while (true); // if failed, do nothing } LoRa.setSpreadingFactor(8); // ranges from 6-12,default 7 see API docs Serial.println("LoRa init succeeded.");}A comparison, using the standard RS-02 Breakout module, together with one of my own "Arduino type PCB"ATMEGA328P with 8 Channel Logic Converter.As we can see, you need quite a lot more wires to make this work. It is also worth noting that we have only 8 level converters on this ATMEGA328P PCB, in order to use all of the RA-02's GPIO, we will need to add an additional external logic converter as well.Using a 3v Device:Cytron's Maker Nano RP2040For my second test, I decided to be a bit brave, and try to use the new Raspberry Pi Pico ( RP2040 Microprocessor ). I have quite a few of them lying around and have never really done a lot with them, due to the fact that I do not really like using MicroPython or CircuitPython, and also because the recently released Arduino Core for the RP2040 still being quite new... I decided to use a development board that I recently bought from Cytron, the Maker Nano RP2040, as it has all the added diagnostic features to make my life a bit easier, I will also include a test with an original Pi Pico board, to make it more accessible to everyone out there. Once again, I used Sandeep Mistry's LoRa Library, with the exact same Arduino sketch, used for the Maker Uno test. (I obviously needed to change the pin numbers though, as the RP2040 uses different pins for its SPI interface).Maker Nano RP2040 RA-02 Breakout ModuleNSS 17MOSI 19MISO 16SCK 18RST 9DIO0 8In this case, we DO NOT need the OE pin, as the RP2040 is a native 3v device. The level converter can thus stay disabled, with its pins in tri-state ( high impedance ) mode.If we look at the code, it is similar to the Maker Uno's code, with only the Pin declarations needing a change#include <SPI.h> // include libraries#include <LoRa.h>const int csPin = 17; // LoRa radio chip selectconst int resetPin = 9; // LoRa radio resetconst int irqPin = 8; // change for your board; must be a hardware interrupt pinbyte msgCount = 0; // count of outgoing messagesint interval = 2000; // interval between sendslong lastSendTime = 0; // time of last packet send// Note that SPI has different names on the RP2040, and it has 2 SPI ports. We used port 0// CIPO (Miso) is on pin 16// COPI (Mosi) is on pin 19// SCK is on pin 18// CE/SS is on pin 17, as already declared aboveI did not use a breadboard, in order to make things as easy as possible.Cytron's Maker Pi Pico - A Pi Pico on a breakout PCBTo make things a bit easier, without having to resort to using a breadboard, I decided to do the Original Pi Pico test using the Maker Pi Pico PCB. This PCB is basically a big breakout module, with detailed pin numbers and some diagnostic LEDs, but it also uses a native Pi Pico, soldered directly to the PCB, by means of the castellated holes... So, While technically not being a true standalone Pico, It makes my life easier and was thus used for the test, as I can be sure that the pins are labelled exactly the same as on the original Pico. The code used for the Maker Nano RP2040 works perfectly, with no changes required.This post is getting quite long by now, so I have decided not to include my tests of the ESP-12E ( NodeMCU ) or ESP32 development boards here as well... They also function as expected.In SummaryWhen I started this project, I set out to solve a problem ( personal to me ), that could potentially help a lot of other people use the RA-02 Module for more projects and tasks. The Breakout module in its current form can also be used with the RA-01h module (915Mhz Module) without any changes. All GPIO pins are broken out, and accessible through full logic converted pins on both sides of the breakout module. I hope that this will be useful to someone. I am also not releasing the full schematics at this stage, as I may decide to make some minor cosmetic changes in the near future. The PCB can however be ordered from PCBWay in its current form and works 100% as expected. The BOM file is available with the ordered PCB as usual.

Digital Voltmeter:Digital voltmeters are used to measure potentials between two different points and they display the values in the form of digits accurately that is why they are more reliable to use. The chances of making errors are less as compared to the analog voltmeter. They are more stable and provide a better interface to the user.Design Implementation:We are designing a circuit that will measure Voltages in Digital. All the inputs from those two potentials will be analog so we have to make all these values digital. We have many options to convert analog values to digital but we will use ICL7107 IC due to its functionality as it will convert Analog to Digital and also give us output for 7 segments which will be easy for us. ICL7107 IC will make outputs for 7 segments internally, we don’t need any additional circuit for 7 segment data converter.Circuit Working:First of all, We need positive and negative voltages for our circuit. Negative will be supplied to ICL7107. We will make these negative voltages with the help of a timer IC. NE555 IC will be used in Astable mode(output oscillates at a particular frequency and generate pulses in the rectangular waveform). In Astable mode, 555 will provide us continuous voltage when it will be triggered. For positive we are using 7805 LDO. It will help us connect 9-12V as input of the circuit and provide us with a constant 5V positive for ICL7107 IC. Then, we need two potential differences on pins 31 and 35. After that, we have to make the internal clock circuit for ICL7107. R1 and C1 will be used for the frequency of the internal clock. Then, we have to connect outputs from ICL7107 with 7 segments. We are using common anode 7-segments and we will supply +5V to them then, We need to ground them or provide 0 to complete their circuit. So, ICL7107 will give 0 or ground to reference pins of 7-segments. As ICL7107 is making a decision on when to turn ON 7-Segments LEDs. 0 may vary for a different set of arrangements. Like if we have to display 1 on 7-segment we have to ground or provide 0 to B and C and it may vary for a different set of numbers that will be displayed.Components Management Libraries:Before implementing the design in the PCB file, I have created the symbol and footprint of each component. Then I have uploaded each symbol linked with their footprint on Inventhub. Each component is attached to its supply chain. While designing the PCB board it is important to take care of the footprint and dimensions of each component. Footprints should be exactly the same as per component size otherwise your design will not be perfect.

SD2iEC with BROWSER CARTRIDGE (MICRO-SD VERSION) for COMMODORE 64SD2iEC (Commodore 64 disk drive emulator) with File Browser Software in Cartridge. It is for loading games/programs easier and faster.Hello,This is a tested and working project.This is an Easy DIY project, components are through hole, marked on the PCB, Easy to solder, Easy to make ;)The Idea of this project is; loading programs easier and faster. Some browsers (like File Browser 1K) loads faster than Epyx Fast Load cartridge. And with using a browser software you do not need to know how to use SD2iEC, you just select a file from the menu and then Press ENTER ;) Very Easy!With "SD Browse" in this cartridge, you can not only load files easier and faster but you can also copy files or copy whole disk image to real Commodore Floppy Disks (with 1541 FDD). From Micro SD Card to 5.25" floppy disks or from floppy disks to Micro SD Card.Actually, this PCB is a combination of two independent projects, one of them is SD2iEC (Commodore disk drive emulator) and the other is 64KB Magic Desk Compatible Cartridge. They can be used separately or both together.This, SD2iEC & Browser Cartridge PCB is also available for SMD ATMEGA644P and ATMEGA1284 in TQFP package, you may prefer to use either DIP or TQFP package. DIP package is easier to program and easier to solder, but TQFP package AT644P or AT1284 are usualy cheaper and easy to find than DIP package models.You can download Binary Eprom Image from this link.https://archive.org/download/sd2iec_browser/SD2IEC_BROWSER_27C512.zip64KB Magic-Desk Compatible Cartridge part of this project is based on msolajic's (Marko Solajic) "c64-magic-desk-512k" project. You can update or change the software in eprom by using this software.https://csdb.dk/release/?id=179083https://github.com/msolajic/c64-magic-desk-512kMany thanks to msolajic and zzarko for their great works.Original SD2iEC is designed by Lars PontoppidanWith SD2iEC, from an regular SD Card; you can use D64, M2I, PRG, D71, D81 and P00 ... extensions, Commodore 64 floppy disk images and program files.SD2iEC is easier to use and faster than its competitors. You can use SD Card as a huge capacity floppy or hard disk drive, you are not obligated to mount D64 disk images, you can load and save easly.You can search and find alot of information about "how to use SD2iEC" in the internet.SD2iEC Official Site is https://www.sd2iec.de/SD2iEC firmware download link: https://www.sd2iec.de/nightlies/(Use firmware ...larsp-m1284p.bin or ...larsp-m644p.bin)MMC2IEC / SD2IEC - Evolutionen link: http://www.pitsch.de/stuff/mmc2iec/index.htm ** Before soldering SD Card Module you should place some isolation tape between PCB and SD card module.** If you want to use SD2iEC unconnected to the C64 expansion port then you need to provide DC +5V power to the (+ -) pins on the PCB. (DO NOT CONNECT EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE TO THIS CARTRIDGE WHILE IT IS INSERTED TO C64 !)If you want to program TQFP ATMEGA onboard then you should use DIP40 pins for ICSP connections. I use ATmeag644P and ATmega1284P compatible TQFP44 to DIP40 adapter Programmer socket, from aliexpress.comDIP40 pin 6 = MOSI DIP40 pin 7 = MISO DIP40 pin 8 = SCK DIP40 pin 9 = RST DIP40 pin 10 = VCCDIP40 pin 11 = GNDIn order to protect your electronical devices, always turn off your Commodore 64 before connecting or unconnecting any device.While transfering data (reading or writing) from SD cards it should not be interrupted like power-off or Reset systems. Otherwise that may damage SD cards.Gerber files can be changed at any time. Before paying for the PCBs, be sure to update your orders!As you can see, I have uploaded many projects and still working on new projects. If you have any questions please search answers from the internet. Unless I explicitly stated, all my projects are tested under normal conditions and confirmed to work before being shared. I am sorry not having enough time to answer all the questions.Many thanks to Feandreu for his contribution in this project.Have funThank you.COMPONENTS:6 pin MICRO SD Card Module (will be placed to the bottom side)3mm RED LED3mm BLUE LED2 PCS. 470ohm - 1K 1/4watt RESISTANCE (value changes leds brigtness)10K 1/4watt RESISTANCE8 Mhz Passive Quartz Crystal1N4148 DIODE2 PCS. 22pf or 33pf ceramic CAPACITORS100nF ceramic CAPACITOR6pin MALE DIN CONNECTOR6PIN MALE HEADER1PCS. HEADER JUMPER CAP4 PCS. RIGHT ANGLE TACTILE BUTTON6 PCS. 30cm MALE-FEMALE DUPONT CABLEMICRO SD CARD (4GB will be enough)2 PCS. 2PIN MALE HEADERATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA644 (DIP40 or TQFP)DIP40 WIDE IC SOCKET (if prefered to use ATMega DIP40 )27C512 or W27C512 (DIP28)DIP28 WIDE IC SOCKET (for eprom)74LS02 or 74HC02 DIP1474LS273 or 74HC273 DIP20You will need a programmer for ATMEGA and EPROMIf your programmer have capability to test IC chips, like 74LS series, then you should not forget to test them before soldering, some chips may have defect. (TL866 Minipro Programmer is able to test some of logic IC)